Help - 1.9/2.0TDI Recommendations

scottgbr595

scottgbr595

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Hello,

I'm looking to buy an A3 - 2006 to 2009 - just wondering what the best engine codes are for these engines? Also any common problems to look out for when viewing?

I've heard the 1.9 BKD engine was solid but if anyone can post or link me to threads I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks.
 
If I was looking to buy a car between those years I'd definitely go for the 2.0 with the common rail engine and not pd.
 
BKD is 2.0 not 1.9, if considering 1.9 or 2.0 better option is Common Rail, but if you want PD, try to avoid ones with balanced oil pump shaft, on BKD 2.0 cylinder head version C or D (A and B are common fault on cracking), then check the dual mass condition, as expensive to repair, some gearboxes are faulty (main bearing or something causing clutch slave cylinder not working properly). rear springs are also to check as seen few splitting,, loom on pillars specially older ones can just give up.
PD are pump dose, right, and difference is in design and that on CR (common rail) you get them out off engine, and on PD inside the cylinder head, many times stretch bolts or o-rings give up and mixing diesel into oil, as well due to oil the loom going to be harder and harder and can cause problems. Check as well steering rack as electric and if got plays, will be expensive as well.
 
2.0 TDI balance shaft issue up-rated by Audi around very late 2009/early 2010
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...ance-shaft-failure.81997/page-39#post-3000822
The 1.9 has a reputation for being tough and reliable. On the downside it will be a bit noisier and less smooth and have similar power to the current 1.6 TDI.
The A3 8P was facelifted around 2008 - with several style improvements and upgrades. Identified by the indicator lights on the side of the front wings being moved to the tips of the side mirrors.
 
Marek196c said:
BKD is 2.0 not 1.9, if considering 1.9 or 2.0 better option is Common Rail, but if you want PD, try to avoid ones with balanced oil pump shaft, on BKD 2.0 cylinder head version C or D (A and B are common fault on cracking), then check the dual mass condition, as expensive to repair, some gearboxes are faulty (main bearing or something causing clutch slave cylinder not working properly). rear springs are also to check as seen few splitting,, loom on pillars specially older ones can just give up.
PD are pump dose, right, and difference is in design and that on CR (common rail) you get them out off engine, and on PD inside the cylinder head, many times stretch bolts or o-rings give up and mixing diesel into oil, as well due to oil the loom going to be harder and harder and can cause problems. Check as well steering rack as electric and if got plays, will be expensive as well.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help!

Could you expand on how I can check the dual mass condition and also a faulty gearbox?

For the springs I'm guessing a visual check for cracks will be enough?

Last one how can I check the loom on the pillars? I've heard to check all the door electrics with them open and closed.

Cheers again.
 
Matt268uk said:
If I was looking to buy a car between those years I'd definitely go for the 2.0 with the common rail engine and not pd.
Click to expand...

The common rails are good engines. But they are pricey and you will be looking at 09 - onwards for a CR.

The 1.9s are also good but I believe they came in BLS and BXE code in the A3 - BLS has DPF and BXE can suffer from rod issue.
 
xJay1337 said:
The common rails are good engines. But they are pricey and you will be looking at 09 - onwards for a CR.

The 1.9s are also good but I believe they came in BLS and BXE code in the A3 - BLS has DPF and BXE can suffer from rod issue.
Click to expand...

Some good pointers from the other posts, I'm making a list, really helpful! Ok so the BLS engine is better as long as you don't abuse the dpf, are there any other engine codes that I should look out for?

Thanks.
 
audi upgrades
On bls you can easily take off dpf/egr and get it remapped. on bxe there was some post that actually they are shi*ty, the 3.2 got problems with timing chains in years 08-10 I belive, 1.8t and 2.0 or 2.0t (petrol) should be without any major problems. Haldex if not taken care will be expensive to repair.
 
Rideen said:
I wouldn't turn my back to later 2.0TDI models, they are superior compared to 1.9TDI in both power and smoothness.
Click to expand...

I'm considering the 2.0TDI more after what a lot of people are saying. I'm guessing the best ones are after 2007?
 
audi upgrades
Rideen said:
Avoid 2004 and 2005 BKD models and you should be fine.
Click to expand...
My is 05 and no fault with it, better to say avoid BKD engine with cylinder head rev. A and be careful with rev.B, as they like to split.
 
Also I've found a 1.9TDI 2009 that is an E 104 version, can these be remapped and whats the difference? Thanks
 
scottgbr595 said:
BKD Rev C will be alright then? How do I find this out?
Click to expand...

Lift off /remove the engine cover and near the metal fuel pipes that go along the cylinder head will be the part number of the cylinder head cast into it , ending in either A, B or C, depending which revision head the engine has.
Not all revision A or B heads play up, but many do, which is why people avoid them and only want cars with revision C heads!
I wanted to avoid any engine with a DPF or head issues or the problematical oil pump drive so went for a late 2006 BKD with revision C head and chain-driven oil pump.
So far it's been great.....
 
If you live or drive in London Cambridge or Bristol, don't buy a diesel motor at all, Low Emmision Zones will fine you in the near future for the older DERV motors. One reason I changed to petrol power. Apart from that a 2006/7 BKD and C version head, pre DPF is about the most reliable.
@Nessy is pleased with my old tub (sorry, superb Sline bkd :sm4:) so if you do that's the version to go for.
 
Again thanks for the help.

I've spotted an 08 2.0TDI and going to view it tomorrow, I'm guessing this will be CR and will be alright?
 
You can check most of the cars data including engine type by checking the printed sticker normally found in the boot by the spare wheel.
 
Spotted a 2011 2.0TDI with 170HP, this is the common rail engine but has 100,000 miles, what are peoples opinions on this engine?

Thanks
 
Normally ok. The only problem I'm aware of, is when the Emmission Recall was done some 170 owners had problems. In fact a quite a few on here won't have it done.
 
SootySport said:
Normally ok. The only problem I'm aware of, is when the Emmission Recall was done some 170 owners had problems. In fact a quite a few on here won't have it done.
Click to expand...

Ok will ask when I view if this was done. I have a choice between 2011 with 100,000 miles or 2009 with 70,000 miles, any advice?
 
scottgbr595 said:
Ok will ask when I view if this was done. I have a choice between 2011 with 100,000 miles or 2009 with 70,000 miles, any advice?
Click to expand...
The mileage difference is not really significant on this engine, condition, history is.
Do you really have to have a diesel car? they do cost a fortune should something go wrong. I had 2 diesel motors in the family and changed over to petrol a year ago. The future is not bright for DERV's.
 
SootySport said:
The mileage difference is not really significant on this engine, condition, history is.
Do you really have to have a diesel car? they do cost a fortune should something go wrong. I had 2 diesel motors in the family and changed over to petrol a year ago. The future is not bright for DERV's.
Click to expand...

I do long journeys but prefer the torque on diesels, feels more solid. What would you recommend?
 
S3 or A3 2.0 tfsi Quattro which is a slightly detuned S3. Which is what I have.
 
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I set out to buy a bigger petrol engine, not many around my postcode in a 10 mile radius. 90% of the cars seemed to be diesel. Bought privately at a good price - paid no "diesel premium". Economy and torque is superb, same 170 bhp engine as fitted to the TT and Skoda Octavia VRS diesel. My annual mileage is not that high but I do fit in longer runs - I've had no problems - 84,000 on the clock - uses no engine oil and runs smooth and quiet. For 2010 onwards you will avoid the oil pump balance shaft issue which worries people as it affects some engines. Modern direct injection petrol engines are not immune from problems - they can clog up with carbon in the inlet valve area and their cats can also suffer/block with low mileage/short journeys.
 
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Yeah 08 will be CR. I have a 07 PD170 BMN, no majors with the engine yet. Would of preferred a CR though, much smoother and refined engine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The 2011 2.0TDI 170PS is up for £5500, its got 100k on the clock and hasn't had the cam belt changed, gonna view it tomorrow, is it a good price and how much is the cam belt change, £400?

It's 2011 so CR which is better from what you guys have said, any engine codes to look out for or did they iron out the problems by 2011?

(cheers Sootysport for the help)

Thanks.
 
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That price looks fair to me. Probably a lot of motorway miles which would not have stressed the engine at all i.e. doing around 2,000 rpm in 6th at 70 MPH. It needs a cam belt change now and at 100k probably wise to change the water pump (same belt circuit) at the same time. Prices vary across the UK - I've seen anything from £350 - £600 (Audi main dealer) mentioned on the forum. Personally, I'm not aware of any general, post-2010 faults. The engines evolved into stop/start after 2010 and currently the 170 BHP has evolved to around 180 BHP in the latest models.
 
170 PD BMN at 70 is 2200rpm compared to the older 140 bhp BKD engine which sits at 2000rpm
 
I agree, 100k miles is not huge mileage, seems like it was a business user doing all those miles in 6 years.
Check the cam belt price at a main dealer, some are doing a free mot for life with such repairs/servicing. Average dealer cam belt change with water/pump is about £500 .
 
Rideen said:
I get it, but it kinda defies the laws of physics. :D The only explanation would be different gear ratios - BKD has higher 6th gear I assume.
Click to expand...

It is indeed a ratio difference

Although my comparison was a Quattto 170 to a 140 FWD. so more likely to just be a different ratio for the differentials
 
AS far as I know there was 2 types of 6 speed gearboxes (manual ones) 1 was with highway 6th speed that dropped your rpm, the 2nd one is shorter on 6th gear.In fact my BKD on 70mph 6th gear got 2200rpm.
 
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