3.0 tdi turbo actuator trouble

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Elf458_123

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Hi,

I was on here as elf458 but lost password and can't get a reset so new account. Maybe some will remember me...

So I've got an asb 3.0 tdi and it had the turbo actuator fail. The motor died so replaced with a working new part. I've manually calibrated movement with vnt arm limits and tried to calibrate on odis and vcds but it doesn't seem to respond under the calibration sequence via the diagnostics port. Motor moves when unplugging the wiring connector and the vnt movement is completely free with no resistance. The wiring plug produces the appropriate voltages when running output tests on vcds. I'm completely stumped what to do next. Nothing seems wrong but just won't respond to calibration. Can anyone shed some light???

Thanks in advance
 
From what I remember from my actuator you need a special audi tool to set the limits if it's the same as mine it's an electronic vdo unit these can't be set by hand

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quattrogrip said:
From what I remember from my actuator you need a special audi tool to set the limits if it's the same as mine it's an electronic vdo unit these can't be set by hand

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Click to expand...

Yep I had same problem it's into the stealership I'm afraid or an Audi specialist


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Yep odis vas tool is the specialist tool I used. It's not producing a signal to the unit. That's the issue.
 
Elf458_123 said:
Yep odis vas tool is the specialist tool I used. It's not producing a signal to the unit. That's the issue.
Click to expand...

Hmmm not sure then mate it turned out I had sticky vanes that was the problem so I just bought new turbo plus actuator and it was plug and play but I did try fitting a new actuator to no avail the specialist I took it to reckoned they had to be in touch with Germany to sync the new actuator weather they was just pulling my leg I don't know I tried getting 2 new different actuators on to my car no joy hence the brand new turbo that cured my problem


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Different engine but similar setup.

My turbo died not so long back so I purchased a new core and rebuilt it. I'd never had a VNT before so I was a little dubious about setting it up. The place that I purchased the core from was local to me www.turborebuild.co.uk and they did an actuator recalibration. Just to ensure that it was at it best performance I popped it over and got them to do it for me.....it wasn't that far out so I could have probably got away with it.

But they will also pair a new actuator to the turbo and set it up.....I can't see the stealers being able to calibrate it up as you need to have a fancy air flow cabinet, they will only be able to match it to the turbo unless they send it off.

Give the above link a quick look as at the end of the day you don't have to use them but maybe there's someone near to you that can provide a similar service that doesn't cost stealership prices.




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Yes quattrogrip is right. There is a special calibration tool called VAS6395A now preceded by VAS6395B that calibrates it to the turbo once it's fitted to the turbo. That basically tells it the exact opening and closing percentages. If it needs to be set at 80-20 or 75-25 etc. I had mine programmed from a specialist and it still didn't make much difference to the limp mode. I then changed the vacuum solenoid for £26 and blocked the EGR ZWith the blanking plate. That has seemed to solve the problem and the power is back on. Now have oil leak to deal with.


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I bought a second hand turbo as the central nut in mine had come off the shaft the cold (inlet) side. I removed the old actuator and put it on the replacement turbo. Am I going to have any problems (apart from if I can't find that nut in the charge cooling system) cheers for your help.
 
The nut is the quite worrying! Suprised the unit endured that.

From my understanding you should be alright as the 'base' calibration is already matched between the ecu and actuator. The full calibration should happen on first start up. Put the ignition on for 30 secondsish, off then on again for the same. Then off then start. It should run the sequence automatically from what I understand. That 'base' is what's missing from a brand new part
 
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You might need to clear fault code if MIL engine light is on. But update anyway as interesting none the less.
 
The vanes on the cold side of the old turbo were just spinning independently to the hot side presumably because the nut had come astray.
Basically the old turbo was doing nothing apart from making a noise and it wasn't producing any boost to the engine at all. This is why I'm hoping the nut will have dropped into the first intercooler and not found its way any further down the line.
I bought the car as a non runner/starter, a new cam sensor sorted it.
Engine sounds as sweet as a nut, I've only driven it onto ramps which is when I noticed the turbo squeal.
Hope I find that nut! :0))
I'll tell you whether I have any actuator problems when it's all back together.
 
Very unusual for a nut to come off a compressor wheel on a turbo and not cause any damage to the wheel itself . It will probably be buried somewhere in the intercooler. The BV50 turbo used in these engines is not that rugged and the usual issue apart from VNT problems is that the turbine shaft snaps.
 
It seems like taking the actuator off the old turbo and putting it on the new one has not caused any problems as yet? Happy days!
 
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