Belgian S3

I managed to get the DTC's.

Here's a screenshot :
20170522 VAS FSP
Bottom line, the Mass air flow meter is shot :-/
The G40 would explain the trouble I had restarting the car when hot (something I rarely do unless it stalls) I'm thinking I can live without that one for the moment, right ? I'll have to dig deep in the engine during the summer anyway to get to the crankshaft seal, so I might as well do it when I'm there.

When poking around I also noticed the collar from the Mass airflow meter to the TIP was loose. So some rogue air has also made it's way in the engine.

Also found these DTC's, from before I replaced the DV:
20170522 VAS FSP before DV
So parts will be ordered (G70) and replaced. I'll report back when it's been replaced.
 

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Great ... the MAF 06A 906 461 E isn't available anymore and replaced by an 06A 906 461 EX, which I read somewhere is refurbished.

Is this correct ?

Is there an alternative / better part we can get ?
 
I'm pretty sure the EX means the part is available on an exchange basis only, meaning you give them your part and then you buy theirs at a discount.
 
JohnDuh said:
Great ... the MAF 06A 906 461 E isn't available anymore and replaced by an 06A 906 461 EX, which I read somewhere is refurbished.

Is this correct ?

Is there an alternative / better part we can get ?
Click to expand...
EX means its an exchange unit

<tuffty/>
 
Damn .... ok, no dealer parts for me than.

I ordered an original bosch part online. Can't wait for it to arrive, been car-less for too long.
 
Next update.
The MAF arrived and was an Exchange part, despite being advertised as non exchange. I'll have to have a stern word with the seller.
Installed it, started the car and stalled in the street with the same symptoms.

Now the G40 (058 905 161 B) has been ordered and should arrive tomorrow. Let's see if this makes the car drive-able again.
Here's the part that came out of the car, it has suffered a bit apparently.
IMG 20170529 070546

As a sidenote, I don't understand why Audi's need this sensor. It's rather easy to program a failsafe in the engine software, so I don't see why this should be crippling my car :-(
 
Ok, changed the camshaft sensor and still the same issue,bar a quicker restart after stalling.
The car is now completely error free but still stalls when I blip the throttle at standstill (feels like it wants to go back to idle but can't catch the rpms fast enough) and starts bucking when driven above 2500rpm. Once the bucking starts its not going away anymore.
Any suggestions where to start looking?

Since it's clearly not making any boost at the point I'm thinking either fuel or spark but I don't know how to diagnose those.

Some extra info, when I looked at the state of the throttle valve I found a lot of residue and rather fresh oil before the butterfly valve and in the silicone hose connecting to it. I detached this silicone right after it stalled and there were some fumes in the silicone hose. This makes me think that when the turbo was replaced some time ago the garage didn't take the time to clean the intercooler and tubing. Don't know how this could lead to the trouble I'm having though, just another thing to do when I work on the car.
5661805c8dfdb928d30189e5ca8ad885.jpg
5f266de7207c41b7f38d6811dbaf3972.jpg


Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
Equally ****** unfortunately
:-(

Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
The car is parked in a friend's garage without tools. I'll get it home Friday to search what might be causing it.

For the moment this is what I plan on checking
- injector seals
- vacuum lines
- fuel lines
- injector state
- fuel pressure regulator (including lines)
- coil wiring
- spark plugs

Anything else I should add to the list?
Anything I can check electronically? I have access to a VW computer thingy.

Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
audi upgrades
badger5 said:
oil coming out of throttle is a bad sign.
Click to expand...
Bwoaaa... Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only source is the turbo. So if it's shot there are only two options. Either I let the car go or I install one of those badger 5 hybrid kits.

Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
JohnDuh said:
Bwoaaa... Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only source is the turbo. So if it's shot there are only two options. Either I let the car go or I install one of those badger 5 hybrid kits.

Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
Click to expand...
no.. turbo is one source, engine breathing is another if stock breather pcv system..

The lowest part of your pipe system (usually intercooler) will have a pile of oil sat in there too as it all runs downhill when engine switched off.

Usual checks are segregate oil breather pipe out of TIP and vent into a can/bottle, clean all your pipes up (inc those and intercooler), and then run the car again keeping an eye on the catch can and the pipes.. If oil continues to cover your charge pipes then the source is the turbo..

good luck
 
couple of hours playing later, checked fpr, seems ok. No leaks no fuel in the vacuum line. As long as I was working on the car, I replaced the fuel filter for good measure. Was murky but not the cause of the problem.

So back to square one but this time around I shot a video :


Tomorrow I'll buy a fuel pressure meter and check what happens there.

Now off to check some more vac lines and maybe scan it again. I'll report back

Ok, next problem found, the PCV valve, which IMHO should be one way is reduced to just a pipe :-( If I blow in either side I feel no resistance non what so ever. Guess another trip to audi is in order
 
Last edited:
JohnDuh said:
couple of hours playing later, checked fpr, seems ok. No leaks no fuel in the vacuum line. As long as I was working on the car, I replaced the fuel filter for good measure. Was murky but not the cause of the problem.

So back to square one but this time around I shot a video :


Tomorrow I'll buy a fuel pressure meter and check what happens there.

Now off to check some more vac lines and maybe scan it again. I'll report back

Ok, next problem found, the PCV valve, which IMHO should be one way is reduced to just a pipe :-( If I blow in either side I feel no resistance non what so ever. Guess another trip to audi is in order
Click to expand...

Just tried to get at the bottom pcv valve. All the surrounding tubing was as brittle as can be so I ended up breaking the plastic elbow,then proceeded to poke at it with a screwdriver until that one broke as well.
All this to find that the valve was actually working :-(

Anyway, calling it a day, it's beer o'clock now.

Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
Erikn89nl said:
Brittle PCV pipes could also be the cause of your issues, if they are letting air in/out...
Click to expand...

I certainly hope so :)
Got the new parts which will be installed over the weekend.

<rant>
Stupid effing German cost efficient engineering. Caused me to have to poke around under the manifold for an hour or 3 to get the fused PCV elbow out. Now I see the new part and it has a metal inner sleeve. Couldn't they have imagined from day one that heatcycling a stupid plastic pipe is no good idea. Effing 0,01€ savings per car logic
</rant>

I feel better now :)

New toys for the weekend : fuel pressure measuring gauge and vacuum measuring gauge. I hope between these two I'll be able to find my issue, or at least be sure those two are OK (which will unfortunately mean spark is the problem)
Will keep you posted.
 
Ok... No time during the weekend to work on the car. So I'm working on it now.

Just finished replacing the whole pcv crap. It literaly came off in a million pieces and forced me to take the intake manifold of just to get access.
Anyway, all is back together and the problem is still there.

I teed in the fuel pressure gauge and at idle it sits at 2.5bar When I blip the throttle it stays at 2.5 and when it stumbles it spikes momentary to 3bar. A bit of googling tells me this is too low. Correct?

Where should I start looking? I'm of a mind to randomly spray brake cleaner around the engine to see if the revs mount in a certain place.

Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
Could be... Should be an easy enough fix. It'll just cost me some more hallucinations while digging around in the tank.

Is there any way to know for sure?
I remember a topic here about testing the fuel pump, but a crucial graph was lost,making for an interesting read but not useful info.

Btw, I measured fuel pressure at the intake of the rail. I take it I should see almost 3 bar here, right?

Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
Ok, let's answer my own question, or at least part of it.

The pump's part number is 8L9 919 051 G

And here are the specs:
Nominal voltage : 6~15V
Operating pressure: <=4bar
Pump Capacity: >=105l/h

So that comes to 437,5ml / 15s.
Tonight I'll be looking for a recipient for the fuel to test how bad my pump is.
 
It may not demonstrate lack of flow unless its under load... its when they are stressed they tend to show how bad they are as they can't keep up the flow when loaded...

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
It may not demonstrate lack of flow unless its under load... its when they are stressed they tend to show how bad they are as they can't keep up the flow when loaded...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
Is there any way to simulate the load while testing ?
I'm thinking about taking the measurement at the inlet to the fuel rail. Where I measured the pressure as well.
 
JohnDuh said:
Is there any way to simulate the load while testing ?
I'm thinking about taking the measurement at the inlet to the fuel rail. Where I measured the pressure as well.
Click to expand...

if you are measuring flow then you pull a pipe off and run the fuel into a measuring jug... if you pull the pipe pre FPR (where fuel goes into the rail) it won't be under pressure... if you pull the pipe off the return however it will...

However... its not something I have done so could not predict the outcome and like I said flow rate might be ok at base pressure (3bar)... you would need to test at max pressure (FPR + your peak boost)...

The way Bill normally can tell a pump is tired is from logging... AFR if yours is wideband is first port of call... actual AFR vs requested AFR in block 31... then look at blocks 001 and 002 for lambda control and injector ontime... if actual AFR reads leaner at the top end of a run to request then thats an indicator... this can be validated to a degree by looking at lambda control and injector on times... if the ECU is trying to add loads of fuel and the injectors are maxing out (20+ IDC) while the AFR is going leaner than request then its a fair indication that the pump is tired... this is normally properly validated by fitting a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel in line to the rail as fuel pressure should always be FPR rating + boost pressure

Flow rate may not be enough of a test to confirm the pumps state of health

<tuffty/>
 
Ok, fuel pump is beyond dead. I did the test yesterday eve and it's flowing only half of what it's supposed to.

I went about a very professional way of testing, some croco clips and some duct tape.
IMG 20170620 213847 IMG 20170620 213931
And not to forget my professional switch :
IMG 20170620 213941
Anyway, the end result after a good 15s of pumping was this:
IMG 20170620 214321
The bottle is supposed to be almost full.

Guess I'll be calling my favourite Audi dealership to buy a new pump.
Actually, are there any better options, or is the standard pump more than sufficient.
 
DW 65 is meant to be a good pump. Available from AKS Tuning and Badger 5 I believe
I use standard pump with a DA31 in line but im swaying towards a DW 65
 
Just got the price from the dealer ... 400€.
My interest in alternative parts just spiked :)
 
Been looking at fuel pumps and Badger5 got me confused.
On the site it says 2WD, does this mean it's only for FWD cars, or will they also fit an S3 ?

Since the whole lot is 400, I'm looking at alternatives with just replacing the pump itself.
 
badger5 said:
2Wd is 2 wheel drive yes not for S3
Click to expand...
Any chance you know of a pump that will drop in my S3 basket and not cost me 400?

Sent from a green cloud on planet Procrastination
 
Last edited:
I also have the original OEM fuel pump for the S3 that I removed from my basket, which is almost as new having only covered approx 5000 miles. PM me if interested.
 
OK, decided to go with fuelperformance (they were the cheapest, and at least I was sure to have the right pump)
So crossing fingers now for a fast delivery.

I'll update here on the install.
 
Ok, here goes. Installed the fuel pump, got the right amount of fuel up front, didn't solve a thing
I've cleaned my injectors (ultrasonic bath) and changed the spark plugs. Still nothing.

I'm really getting desperate here. Starting to really need the car.

Here's the things I've changed / checked so far.
- fault codes -> MAF and crank shaft sensor error
- replaced MAF
- replaced crank shaft sensor
- replaced PCV piping
- replaced DV
- replaced hockey puck
- checked vacuum -> a steady 0.7 @ idle
- replaced fuel filter
- replaced fuel pump
- checked fuel pressure -> 2.5@ idle with vacuum
- replaced spark plugs
- cleaned injectors

The car is still hunting @ idle as in the movie i've posted.

I can't really thing of anything else to do.
 
Is the new MAF confirmed to be working correctly? Wouldn't be the first 'dead on arrival' I've seen...

Is the brake servo holding vacuum?
 
new MAF hasn't been confirmed, now looking to install some diagnose software again to get some measurement values.

The vacuum has been measured to be OK.
 
where are you from in belgium? maybe i can help...
 
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