rear door not locking also window not working

Bollo

Bollo

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Evening

As above I have lost all electrics to the driver side rear door this evening, checked both looms and found this to my horror on drivers door...

Any ideas why someone would of used these ***** connections on the loom

Also can anyone help out and tell me what the wire are for

Any one have a wiring diagram
Looks like one wire has completely snapped

*** :(
 

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That's by the hinge right? One or more wires have snapped due to the constant flexing when opening the door. You can tackle it in one of two ways- Fit a new door loom complete or tidy up the broken wires by cutting, stripping, twisting, soldering and heatshrink tubing over each wire. A new loom will last the longest but a good repair will last nearly as long. You'll have to take the door card off and release the loom from some of the plugs and cable clips to get enough slack to do the repair.
You don't need a wiring diagram.
 
That's already been repaired, badly may I add.

We've repaired these numerous times for clients with no future issues, using existing looms & a professional repair, so if you get stuck we can offer this service.
 
It's a bit odd that a rear door wires break as it doesn't get used much. May your car was a taxi in it's early life.
 
is that picture above of your front driver's door ? I have a loom that might be suitable part # is 8P4 971 029 M. A couple of the wires have been rubbed but have been taped up. If it's any good you can have it ? let me know if that's any help to you. Pop your door card off and check your part number.

Matt.
 
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That purple/white wire is part of the CAN communication between the front and rear doors. Same thing happened to me: rear door window/lock stopped working, but front wiring harness was the cause. However, mine hadn't had that terrible repair done to it.
 
Mike Powers, I'm having this same problem and can't see any damage on the rear door loom. When you say the cause of yours was the front wiring harness, where do you mean? Not sure where to look next.
Thanks
 
Lmac, pull the front door loom off and check for broken wires. You should pull the rubber boot off right where the wiring from the door connects to the main car bulkhead. See the first picture in this thread as an example. Pull back and look for broken wires; they break there from folding back and forth when the door is repeatedly opened and closed over the lifetime of the car. The purple/white wire and another wire are how the rear door communicates with the front door which controls the windows and door lock.

Do you have a VAG-COM scanner? If either the door locks or the window (but not both) don't work it could be a different issue. If you scan and find no communication with the rear door I'd suspect wiring first.

Let me know if you still have questions. I could snap a few more pictures if necessary.
 
Hello Mike,

Thanks for your help. I couldn't see any sign of damage on the wiring on the front door. I've attached a photo to show the bit I was looking at. I gave the wires a gentle tug to see if they had snapped inside the door but they all seem secure. Unless there is a break inside the insulation that I can't see. Below is the relevant bit of a vag-com scan. I think I'll take the door liner off and have a bit more of a look when I get more time.

Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8P0-907-279-30-H.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 907 279 N HW: 8P0 907 279 N
Component: Bordnetz-SG H54 2801
Revision: 00H54000 Serial number: 00000009154992
Coding: 11A82F81B0141380EF00001C0000000000084E0564010403002800000000
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 08192
VCID: 489FBEA23B13F65E1C3-801D

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8P2 955 119 F Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: Wischer AU350 H10 0040
Coding: 00056595
Shop #: WSC 06314

1 Fault Found:
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 140
Mileage: 105916 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
OFF
Voltage: 12.20 V
OFF
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF
 

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Hmm... Well, if you've check the wiring harnesses of both the front right door and the rear right door and both seem to be in order, then the next thing on the list would be the door module itself. You'll find that Audi did a very good job with window/door design and the module that communicates with the car and operates the window can be removed with just three bolts (once the door panel is removed). When I was chasing the problem in my A3 (before I realized it was wiring), I found that you can actually swap the rear door modules and they still work. This is just a test, mind you, as the window will operate in the wrong direction when you swap the modules. However, it could rule out the wiring and confirm the module is bad if rear left door works when plugged in. Then you could hop on eBay and find a replacement for under $100.

If the problem stays with the rear right door, it is likely wiring which really sucks since that's much harder to track down.

A word of warning though, be very careful pulling off the door panels. It is easy to break clips.
 
FIXED!
I thought I'd post an update on this. I swapped the left and right rear door controllers around as advised by Mike above. Strangely they both worked when swapped. When I swapped them back though the right one was still dead. I ordered a new one of the same part number from a breaker on ebay. Fitted and now working!
Thanks for your help.
 
Central locking issue HELP!
brand new to this site so hi!
I have an Audi A3 2004 3door 2.0 tdi
When I use the central locking button or key fob it locks the passenger door but not the drivers door and unlocks the passenger but not the drivers door as well
When I use the key in the drivers door it locks the drivers door but does not lock both doors, only the drivers, the windows open and close with they key so any ideas?
Greatly appreciated
 
driver mechanism or module faulty, may be wiring cut, worn somewhere or grounded, check for codes.
 
How do I check for codes? I'm new to this? I've heard about vcdc or vag com? Do I have to buy it or can I get it for free?
 
you can read the codes with majority of code readers but I recommend VCDS (original or ebay copy) as more appropriate and is much more complete for vag group. On top of page is VCDS Map, click on it and contect the seller nearest to you, then depend of member you ask, may be free, may be for a "beer", or some require some money due to experience with people loosing their time.
 
Sorry to bump an old topic but I figured it wasn't too stale.
Does anyone know the breakdown of the color coded wires of the driver's door loom cross referenced to function? For instance, I know that the red/green wire controls the driver's door window. I'd like to know what the other ones are supposed to do, especially the brown one. Seems I have some issue with the wiring loom as the key fob unlock command doesn't work. The door will unlock with the physical key. However, the lock command by remote works. I had repaired the brown wire previously, but I can't tell if it's separated inside the metal crimp. Just thought I'd save myself some time if I could get clarity on the color coding matched to functions. Thanks!
 
Given how these are common to break, I'd remove & check all along the way & test with a meter, saves wasting time on looking at individuals.
 
From what I understand, the tendency is for these to break at the "bend"... where the accordion rubber sheath is. But with a visual inspection, I don't see any other breakage. I have a multi-meter, but it's an older Fluke model that doesn't have an electromagnetic detection feature. I'm not experienced enough to do advanced troubleshooting. But I also don't want to go down a long, expensive path if all it takes is just 1 wire. That's why I'm trying to see if I can rule out the brown wire. Given your company supplies an aftermarket loom for this application, can you confirm what function the brown wire supports? There's only one. Thanks.
 
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