Footwell light (retrofit) question

maxpayne

maxpayne

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Hi Everyone,

Thinking of retrofitting footwell lights on my 2005 S-Line A3 8P Sportback. Found a bunch of kits on eBay with looms and connections and some great guides too thanks to the forum.

Question is do the footwell lights stay on even when the car is moving/door closed? Is there a way to control the behaviour (I'd like them off just like dome lights cause they can be distracting?).

Also, I'd like to know if the brightness can be adjusted via VCDS and if at all if I use LEDs instead of standard bulbs?

Many thanks!
 
No lights go off I have leds in mine from @t8ups on here not sure on led brightness either

Sent via magic, including a phone
 
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On my 2012 RS I can adjust the brightness of the footwell lights via the dash menu. I have mine on whilst driving
 
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Won't mind some ambient light. What I'm against is being lit up like a UFO, especially when fitted with LED
JayA3sline said:
On my 2012 RS I can adjust the brightness of the footwell lights via the dash menu. I have mine on whilst driving
Click to expand...
 
Mine stay on all the time when ignition is on. Led's courtesy of t8ups
 
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Same brightness all the time, besides led's will just switch themselves off if the voltage is too low.
 
maxpayne said:
Hi Fredrik,

You mentioned in your post that the LED units work for 2010 and above models. Is that because the LEDs operate on non standard voltage? Or is the the wiring?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Hi Maxpayne,

I don't remember exactly why, but I was informed about the issue with before 2010 cars and still did try, however it was not working as attended. 2010+ cars can be purchased both with and without LED so the car is prepared to handle the different voltages which the earlier models can't.
 
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Update.

Finally managed to install the front footwell lights. Yay! Parked the rear footwell light installation as I ran out of energy removing the trims to run the wires under the floor.

I took a risk and ordered the cheapest LED unit from AliExpress (http://s.aliexpress.com/yMzumeyQ). The light units are as OEM as it gets and has single LEDs in each unit. The looms are bare (you can get proper OEM style looms too and also halogen units) despite having an older car as @FredrikA3 experienced.

However, it seems that I have a problem. The lights come on as expected when I open the door or unlock remotely but precisely after 5 seconds the lights go off!

Is that a VCDS coding issue?

Thanks!
 
What did you use to install into the car?

Im looking at doing it but not sure on the AliExpress kit you mentioned, be good to know how they are over the enxt week or so
 
The kit is just a set of wires connecting a set of lights. No magic really.
I don't think my problem would have been solved with Robin's looms. Others, including me have used eBay/AliExpress kits successfully before with no problem. See http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/puddle-door-lights-ebay.235622/. heck you can me them yourselves too. It all depends on how much time/money/energy/enthusiasm you have :)

Coming back to the 5 second timeout I'm seeing, it could well be
  • I need to update the VCDS settings to increase the light timeout
  • My cars CECM doesn't support footwell lights properly (it's a 2005 model, could be a possibility)
  • The VCDS settings are coded to dim the light after 5 second, since I'm using LEDs, they just cut off (that's a gamble I took in which case I'll stand corrected)
  • I used the wrong pin to supply the power (oops)

tcardio said:
I took no risk and ordered from RobinA3 and have no issues whatsoever
Click to expand...
 
Sounds like you connected them to the normal courtesy light supply so the dome lights and your new footwell lights come on and off together.
Back to the drawing board Max.
 
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SootySport said:
Sounds like you connected them to the normal courtesy light supply so the dome lights and your new footwell lights come on and off together.
Back to the drawing board Max.
Click to expand...

Hi,
Would have been happy with the footwell lights synchronising with the courtesy lights (front/rear dome). But that's not the case . The dome lights stay on longer than the footwell lights, extinguishing in minutes as opposed to seconds.

I suspect that it was my foolhardiness with insisting on LED units. The LEDs probably draw a lot less power and hence after the initial 5 seconds the CEM thinks the bulbs aren't working and switches off the power supply. I'll try to test with a light that draws a lot more power (either a canbus LED or a bulb) and see if that theory is correct.

Thanks!
 
not going to argue but sometimes wiring is better than others and can create voltage issues. The connectors also are important to avoid voltage issues. I would go in the direction of the LED. You should purchase an error free bulb. EMtuning and De auto key are excellent bulbs. I use the deautokey and have no issues as they draw enough to avoid the shutdown. Where did you obtain power for the system and where is your ground? You also will need to recode the VCDS. just my 0.02
 
Hey,
Thanks. I've already coded VCDS. The ground is set on a steering wheel nut using the excellent guide from @RobinA3.

I've got LEDs from @t8ups (EM Tuning) elsewhere in the car and the plan was to source the LEDs once I confirmed everything was working as expected.

By the way here's my VCDS output for central electronics:

Code: 
Address 09: Cent. Elect.        Labels: 8P0-907-279-23-H.lbl
   Part No SW: 8P0 907 279 F    HW: 8P0 907 279 F
   Component: Bordnetz-SG     H36 1201  
   Revision: 00H36000    Serial number: 00000002290142
   Coding: 018C4F01B014100000160000160000000008FE175C0100
   Shop #: WSC 06314 000 08192
   VCID: 4088CC2D13D68841A9-FFFE

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8P2 955 119 B  Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
   Component: Wischer AU350   H01 0130  
   Coding: 00062736
   Shop #: WSC 06314


tcardio said:
not going to argue but sometimes wiring is better than others and can create voltage issues. The connectors also are important to avoid voltage issues. I would go in the direction of the LED. You should purchase an error free bulb. EMtuning and De auto key are excellent bulbs. I use the deautokey and have no issues as they draw enough to avoid the shutdown. Where did you obtain power for the system and where is your ground? You also will need to recode the VCDS. just my 0.02
Click to expand...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Posting this in case it helps others considering doing the same job....
My car has the full interior lighting package (front footwells and puddle lights on doors, ambient lighting in roof console etc) but didn't have rear footwell lighting.
I priced up all the Genuine connectors and repair wires etc needed and found that ordering all the bits and pieces needed from my local main dealer and then making the rear footwell loom myself would have saved me about £20 compared to just ordering it from RobinA3 on here.
I chose the latter option and it fitted so easily, all Genuine components and no problems, its not worth the bother trying to make them yourself....
I fitted very small SMD LED 501's to all my interior lights and 9 months later they're still going strong, you need sunglasses when they're on as they are so bright!
 
Hi,

There are two types of kit. One that uses halogen bulbs in the light units, the other LEDs.

On older cars (IIRC pre 2010) the halogen based units are a safer bet as you can see from my experience. There's plenty on eBay/AliExpress. For example: this and this. Your other option is to get the kit from forum member @RobinA3 who wrote the an excellent guide that I followed to get the lights installed. If you use the halogen kit and decide that you want to fit LEDs, you can buy error free LEDs from @t8ups (which I recommend) or eBay etc. at a later stage.

For newer models, you can get units with LEDs built in (which is what I did). I got these from AliExpress. Plenty on eBay too.

It seems that what I'm seeing with the lights going off after 5 seconds is because of the CEM cutting off power as the LEDs aren't drawing enough power (one of my stipulation and I'm hoping it's as simple as that). There's an excellent write up here.

Good luck!

maxpayne said:
Update.

Finally managed to install the front footwell lights. Yay! Parked the rear footwell light installation as I ran out of energy removing the trims to run the wires under the floor.

I took a risk and ordered the cheapest LED unit from AliExpress (http://s.aliexpress.com/yMzumeyQ). The light units are as OEM as it gets and has single LEDs in each unit. The looms are bare (you can get proper OEM style looms too and also halogen units) despite having an older car as @FredrikA3 experienced.

However, it seems that I have a problem. The lights come on as expected when I open the door or unlock remotely but precisely after 5 seconds the lights go off!

Is that a VCDS coding issue?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
19ryanh93 said:
What did you use to install into the car?

Im looking at doing it but not sure on the AliExpress kit you mentioned, be good to know how they are over the enxt week or so
Click to expand...
 
Given that the the central electronic module on the car is a bit older, 8P0 907 279 F to be precise, is it possible to enable dimming via VCDS at all? I quite like the brightness of the OEM lights as it's subtle. The other lights in the car already light up things quite a bit

Also any other option in VCDS like being able to dim and keep the lights on even when moving off?

Thanks!

t8ups said:


I have error free upgrades. My 1 LED is 4 times brighter than the OEM and mine are fully canbus.
Click to expand...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
tcardio said:
that's what error free do... V=IR
Click to expand...
Ohm law xD Yes the error free mean that actually they put the resistor to equal the amount of current so the can-bus see it as normal bulb.
 
Marek196c said:
Ohm law xD Yes the error free mean that actually they put the resistor to equal the amount of current so the can-bus see it as normal bulb.
Click to expand...
I think CAN Bus is more than just Ohm's law since it probably knows how to talk to the CEM on top of having the correct resistance. Otherwise fitting a standard load bearing resistor to the circuit would just fix it, no?
 
There is no canbus on the interior lighting at all
No mater if it's pre facelift or facelift

Halogens or leds can be used on either

There is no time out with vcds either

There is no footwells on with lights on pre facelift, only operational with Doors open / closing etc
Only facelift have the option to have them dual
Purpose, i.e. On with locking / unlocking etc as well as having them come on with lights on and only then in that option can you dim them


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1wheelonly said:
There is no canbus on the interior lighting at all
No mater if it's pre facelift or facelift

Halogens or leds can be used on either

There is no time out with vcds either

There is no footwells on with lights on pre facelift, only operational with Doors open / closing etc
Only facelift have the option to have them dual
Purpose, i.e. On with locking / unlocking etc as well as having them come on with lights on and only then in that option can you dim them


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ah, thanks for clarifying that. In that case the LEDs switching off was just a case of not having enough resistance. And I'll have to be happy with having them come on/off with doors opening/closing.
 
TBH I find it a bit puzzling why anyone would want the footwell lighting on when the car is moving???
My (pre-facelift) car has the full lighting pack and LEDs in every bulbholder which means when the doors are open it's lit up like a Christmas tree,lol.
Having these illuminated whilst on the move would be nothing short of distracting IMHO.......
 
Nessy said:
TBH I find it a bit puzzling why anyone would want the footwell lighting on when the car is moving???
My (pre-facelift) car has the full lighting pack and LEDs in every bulbholder which means when the doors are open it's lit up like a Christmas tree,lol.
Having these illuminated whilst on the move would be nothing short of distracting IMHO.......
Click to expand...

Think of it as ambient lighting, same way door handles and dash is illuminated. Obviously you wouldn't want the dome lights to be on, but footwell lights subtly dimmed would blend in nicely I thought. Sadly a theory for me since I have a pre facelift 8P
 
Mine is 2010 facelift do i need coding when i retrofit regular halogen footwell to get both functions to work ??

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
maxpayne said:
I think CAN Bus is more than just Ohm's law since it probably knows how to talk to the CEM on top of having the correct resistance. Otherwise fitting a standard load bearing resistor to the circuit would just fix it, no?
Click to expand...
not really also checking on canbus is under ohm law, and normally is just 2 resistors doing the job as power divider so partially the power go through the lamp and other part through other resistor. So if you add there two you got resistance of normal bulb. and no error

maxpayne said:
Think of it as ambient lighting, same way door handles and dash is illuminated. Obviously you wouldn't want the dome lights to be on, but footwell lights subtly dimmed would blend in nicely I thought. Sadly a theory for me since I have a pre facelift 8P
Click to expand...
as said 2 resistors (1 in series and 1 in parallel) will do the job, of brightens too. but is only fixed brightenes you will get (unless using potentiometer but will start to be too much cables to play with xD)
 
Don't think you'll need anything is series. A load resistor in parallel should be enough at the main supply wire. The wiring I have basically splits out the cable in 4 locations to supply the 4 lights.

The potentiometer idea is great actually. But if I do go that route, it would be a lot better to get a colour and brightness changing LED strip that can be controlled from the phone

Marek196c said:
not really also checking on canbus is under ohm law, and normally is just 2 resistors doing the job as power divider so partially the power go through the lamp and other part through other resistor. So if you add there two you got resistance of normal bulb. and no error

as said 2 resistors (1 in series and 1 in parallel) will do the job, of brightens too. but is only fixed brightenes you will get (unless using potentiometer but will start to be too much cables to play with xD)
Click to expand...
 
maxpayne said:
Don't think you'll need anything is series. A load resistor in parallel should be enough at the main supply wire. The wiring I have basically splits out the cable in 4 locations to supply the 4 lights.

The potentiometer idea is great actually. But if I do go that route, it would be a lot better to get a colour and brightness changing LED strip that can be controlled from the phone
Click to expand...
If you put series of lights as 1 element and think globally yes, but if we speaking about one light you need a divider. Led strip is as said, depend of how "as original" you wanna get job done.
 
pato89 said:
Mine is 2010 facelift do i need coding when i retrofit regular halogen footwell to get both functions to work ??

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yes coding is required


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
maxpayne said:
Hey,
Thanks. I've already coded VCDS. The ground is set on a steering wheel nut using the excellent guide from @RobinA3.

I've got LEDs from @t8ups (EM Tuning) elsewhere in the car and the plan was to source the LEDs once I confirmed everything was working as expected.

By the way here's my VCDS output for central electronics:

Code: 
Address 09: Cent. Elect.        Labels: 8P0-907-279-23-H.lbl
   Part No SW: 8P0 907 279 F    HW: 8P0 907 279 F
   Component: Bordnetz-SG     H36 1201 
   Revision: 00H36000    Serial number: 00000002290142
   Coding: 018C4F01B014100000160000160000000008FE175C0100
   Shop #: WSC 06314 000 08192
   VCID: 4088CC2D13D68841A9-FFFE

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8P2 955 119 B  Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
   Component: Wischer AU350   H01 0130 
   Coding: 00062736
   Shop #: WSC 06314







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Hi, i know this is a year old now but i have the exact same ce module and have the same issue you have stated. I have ordered canbus leds so hopefully that will resolve that issue but my question is did you manage to get the footwells to work with the headlights?

I have read the vcds coding guide on the footwell lights by @FredrikA3 and it seems my 55 plate missed out on the ever so slightly newer cem from 2006 with the option to enable them whilst driving.
 
D7YAB said:
Hi, i know this is a year old now but i have the exact same ce module and have the same issue you have stated. I have ordered canbus leds so hopefully that will resolve that issue but my question is did you manage to get the footwells to work with the headlights?

I have read the vcds coding guide on the footwell lights by @FredrikA3 and it seems my 55 plate missed out on the ever so slightly newer cem from 2006 with the option to enable them whilst driving.
Click to expand...

No I didn't I'm afraid. Ours is a 55 plate too.
 
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