Stalling issue, help

Peter hawkins

Registered User
Joined
Apr 24, 2017
Messages
23
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Hi
I have a 1999 Audi 1.8t and for the first hour or so of driving seems to lose all revs and cut out while depressing the clutch coming up to lights or a junction and even when dropping down into second gear if the revs are not high enough. It seems to just lose all revs and cuts out but yet the car starts straight up again, Yet if I put the car in neutral coasting up to a stop it's usually fine and once driven the issue goes away as left the car for a few hours and the went for a drive and it had disappeared.
The car has 160k miles and recently purchased it as a fun run around, the previous owner has fitted a aftermarket air intake and what I believe to be a dump valve would this be the issue as I understand these engines don't like them.
Any ideas as I'm pretty much mechanical idiot

What is this?
 
Dump valve could be confusing the ECU enough for all sorts of trouble. Always a good idea to replace that with an OEM diverter valve, they don't cost much.
 
Check for split pipes/airleaks... especially the PCV pipe underneath the inlet manifold... smoke test is advisable...

<tuffty/>
 
I think it might be a diverter valve that is fitted, sorry I'm a novice
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0279.JPG
    IMG_0279.JPG
    587.9 KB · Views: 128
Started the car up this morning and the revs are bouncing up and down and occasionally stalling the car, took it for a drive and continues to drop revs and dies when coasting. Drove it for 40 mins yesterday and after this the problem went away. The car makes a loud screech on start up which I'm assuming is the starter motor and this has been an on going problem hence having to continually start the car after it stalls
 
Visually check all rubber hoses (typically PCV pipes under the inlet manifold) and ideally get a smoke test... rubber hoses connected to the charge air system perish over time from oil contamination and then split from boost pressure

<tuffty/>
 
Had a look at the pipes I could get to and all seem fine, going to have to visit a garage I think
 
Didn't spot that picture... yeah... its an atmos valve... throw it in the bin and get an OE diverter valve... VAG engines don't really like leaky valves and atmos valves are as leaky as it gets...

<tuffty/>
 
That looks suspiciously like a BOV to me, not a diverter valve. If so it won't be doing your engine any favors. How many pipes does it have going to it excluding the vacuum pipe on top?




Steve
It only has two, one going in each end
 
Didn't spot that picture... yeah... its an atmos valve... throw it in the bin and get an OE diverter valve... VAG engines don't really like leaky valves and atmos valves are as leaky as it gets...

<tuffty/>
I have the original black valve and the original air filter is it worth putting them all back on? I'm not to sure how to connect the original one back on though
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0280.JPG
    IMG_0280.JPG
    916.2 KB · Views: 102
Original one??? Sorry I'm an idiot
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0283.JPG
    IMG_0283.JPG
    617.6 KB · Views: 103
Original one??? Sorry I'm an idiot

Yep, get that one back in place if you look at your turbo intake pipe you should see where it's been blanked off, that's where the bottom of your OE Diverter Valve goes in, then just connect the vacuum hose to the top of the valve and the other black hose at the outlet and you should be good to go




Steve
 
Not the greatest pic (from google images) but it should give you an idea of how it's supposed to fit

1556f193ccf215bbca3f9dfa42cdf648.jpg





Steve
 
  • Like
Reactions: <tuffty/>
Original one??? Sorry I'm an idiot

Yeah... thats the original...

The outlet you are holding needs to go to the outlet on top of the stainless steel pipe out the turbo (back of the engine)... the outlet opposite the small one goes in the TIP... the small one on top has the vacuum pipe like the one you have currently fitted...

<tuffty/>
 
Yeah... thats the original...

The outlet you are holding needs to go to the outlet on top of the stainless steel pipe out the turbo (back of the engine)... the outlet opposite the small one goes in the TIP... the small one on top has the vacuum pipe like the one you have currently fitted...

<tuffty/>
Thankyou will give it a go tomorrow , is it worth changing the air filter back as well? Drove it tonight and yet again stalling so hope this works
 
Airfilter should be fine... that atmos valve is the first thing to sort before you can do anything else as they are simply pointless on VAG engines with OE management

<tuffty/>
 
Well I swapped it over today and started the car and the revs held up fine and everything seemed normal, haven't driven it yet but already looks so much better so fingers crossed this was the issue. So thank you just the screeching starter motor to replace now!!
 
Right the stalling issue seems to be fixed, drove the car today and only stalled on first use of clutch, rest of journey fine.
Seems to be idling between 500 and 700 rpm and the needle is going up and down between this.
Is it worth cleaning out the throttle body to stable this
 
ECU adapts fuelling to try and over come leaks... chances are the rough idle is legacy of this and will take a journey or two to stabilise...

Resetting fault codes resets adaptions if you want to expedite the process...

You could also still have another leak of course...

<tuffty/>
 
Well was having issues on start up and at idle and now the engine management light has come on!!
Decided to take out the aftermarket air filter and fit back the original and on drive today revs have settled and seems to be performing a lot better. Will see how she starts up in the cold morning as that's when I had the engine management issue but hopefully now the issue is fixed!!!!
 
If the BOV was dual piston that wasn't your problem. I don't get it why you all hate bov on stock 1.8t engines. It's not better and not worst from my experience with stock dv and aftermarkrr bov Bonalume.
 
Most aftermarket bovs vent to atmosphere 1.8t use a recirculating bov so no air is lost as the ecu measures the air for fuel trims using the wrong type of ov will make car run rich as it's lost some of that metered air it used for calculating the fuel
That's my understanding of why everyone prefers the oem ones
if it ain't broke don't fix it
 
  • Like
Reactions: hydro s3
If the BOV was dual piston that wasn't your problem. I don't get it why you all hate bov on stock 1.8t engines. It's not better and not worst from my experience with stock dv and aftermarkrr bov Bonalume.
You clearly do not understand how OE engine management works then...

It's a sealed system and atmos valves are a leak... A ****** big leak.. OE management can adapt to a degree but you will still get the inherent running issues that any airleak would give

Why make your engine run badly so you can chav it up in the local McDonald's car park..

<tuffty/>
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tj 0785
I'm a 36 year old man it was a little embarrassing driving with the woosh.....
All I can add is since switching back to the original parts my car is 100% better
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tj 0785
Well after having all the codes wiped off and a fresh start I seem to be still having a slight issue with the car stalling.
Getting code 17705
Had a look for any split pipes and could only see this!!!!
Is this the issue as the internal pipe seems ok, any other ideas what I should be looking at as I'm assuming I have a leak somewhere
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0286.JPG
    IMG_0286.JPG
    585.6 KB · Views: 116
Well after having all the codes wiped off and a fresh start I seem to be still having a slight issue with the car stalling.
Getting code 17705
Had a look for any split pipes and could only see this!!!!
Is this the issue as the internal pipe seems ok, any other ideas what I should be looking at as I'm assuming I have a leak somewhere
It's on the right next to the big white looking pipe
 
Have you tried a different MAF?
Also, I found this for you on the Rosstech wiki, regarding leaky PCV systems:

One way to troubleshoot the problem is to pinch closed the vacuum supply hose that attaches to the bleeder valve to see if the excessive crankcase vacuum is resolved resulting in a smooth idle.
 
Pretty much checked every pipe and all seem ok, haven't tried to swap the maf over as of yet so think it's a garage day and get them to look at it. It's frustrating when your a novice!!!