Intercooler options

Cvetko

Cvetko

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Hey,

I've done a remap and now I'm at 230hp(1.8T AUM), but still on stock SMIC.
With summer/warmer air closing by maybe will have some problems. (I dont race, just some pulls rarely)
I was thinking just to uprated SMIC:
SMIC ALU

Dont know about FMIC, what to keep my engine bay as stock as possible.

What about this is worth or?
FMIC sort of


Thanks
Cheers
 
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Cvetko said:
Hey,

I've done a remap and now I'm at 230hp(1.8T AUM), but still on stock SMIC.
With summer/warmer air closing by maybe will have some problems. (I dont race, just some pulls rarely)
I was thinking just to uprated SMIC:
SMIC ALU

Dont know about FMIC, what to keep my engine bay as stock as possible.

What about this is worth or?
FMIC sort of


Thanks
Cheers
Click to expand...
FMIC is'nt in the bay tho is it
Airtec is decent.. google that one.
 
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I put a airtec fmic on mine and the only thing u will see it the airtec logo but u could spray over it if u wanted stealth mode plus u can keep ur fog lights aswell which is a bonus.
 
Won't you have a charge pipe going over the top of the engine on the a3
As inlet manifold is on the other side than on the s3, on a s3 you cannot notice a fix but on the a3's it looks a bit all over the show
 
If you are going to the trouble of changing the intercooler then fit a FMIC. The problem with the SMIC is the poor flow of air and if you make the intercooler thicker as this is, the air flowing through it warms up. so the back part of the IC isn't as efficient.
The best intercoolers have a large frontal area and are not too thick.
If you calculate the volume of the core the SMIC is 18 x 20 x20 = 3600cc or 3.6 Litres
A small/ medium front mount

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/98-06-A3-...A-1-8T-FRONT-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-/112314121429?
size is 46 x16 x9 = 6624cc = 6.6L almost twice the size core wise and much better air flow.
 
Yes, like "Tj0785" said, the pipe will go over the top of the engine, because the manifold is on the other side than on the s3.
What about that FMIC that have both pipes IN/OUT on same side (one is up and one is down). How is compered to normal FMIC that has in/out on different side, so is has hot air on different side. Will it be less efficient?

thanks
 
Don't waste your time with smic. I have an airtec and it's brilliant to be honest. Pricey but intake temps are very consistent. Get a wellycooler (toyosports eBay), then you can sort the piping however you want :)
 
I have spent £200 on piping to go with my £80 toyosports intercooler (still not sure it will be right) - I should have bought an AIRTEC for £450 with the correct shaped silicon hoses.
 
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The airtec isn't as good of a fit as airtec like to make out believe me lol
 
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i still ended up loosing my spots was well annoyed with my airtec
 
20170304 161232
I kept my fogs with a airtec one.
 
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this is the kit I used for the piping on my S3

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351244244760

I used
2 straight silicon connectors
2 90 degree silicon connectors
4 long 90 degree bends

and some of the existing pipework to the charge pipe and the map sensor pipe

I reckon I will manage to keep the fogs as it allows quite a tight fit to the body. will photo when putting bumper back on.
 
Stuart B said:
this is the kit I used for the piping on my S3

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351244244760

I used
2 straight silicon connectors
2 90 degree silicon connectors
4 long 90 degree bends

and some of the existing pipework to the charge pipe and the map sensor pipe

I reckon I will manage to keep the fogs as it allows quite a tight fit to the body. will photo when putting bumper back on.
Click to expand...

I used 2.5inch pipework as well and there was no chance on earth I could keep the fogs.. Grills had to go as well.. Its ridiculously tight! Good luck with it
 
these are the pre bumper photos - the kit is £99 and I have half of it left - but I am not sure how much the bits alone might be? the big kit that is sold for A3's etc is well made but simply junk. it is all too big and there is not enough bits without sawing it all up.

IMAG0515 20170328 170215238
IMAG0514 20170328 170216562
IMAG0516 20170328 170217313


you are right about this, I am trimming down the side grills - the fogs fit okay though - I am about 1 cm away from the proper mounting points at the bottom of the bumper - still yet to decide whether to simply bolt it out a tiny bit. so much trimming is required. I may just shave down the grills so they are super thin - or cut off some of the grills - and ARALDITE it back in place :)
 
lol pipes blow off left, right and centre (literally) - at least I can remove the headlights without removing the bumper - due to the unique nature of the bumper fittings being total *****.
 
Normal circlips are fairly useless for intercooler pipes especially when you don't have a swaged end on the pipe. The T bolt type clips are much better although more expensive. You are less likely to get boost leaks with T bolt clips as well.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T-BOLT-W2...LER-COOLANT-WATER-EXHAUST-PIPE-/301685822653?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Stre...-for-Silicone-Rubber-Hose-Pipe-/301864137737?

You can make a cheap tool out of an old pair of mole grips and an exhaust clamp together with a big washer that will swage alloy intercooler pipes quite well.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/23333-pipe-swaging-tool/
https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/259842-intercooler-pipe-tool/
 
T bolts are shyte...
Bead rolled pipes are always required. and JC Hi Grip type hose clamps work very well....
 
As Bill says then
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JCS-Hi-Gr...ps-Stainless-Steel-Zinc-Plated-/192134838372?

I have only had experience with the worm drive clips supplied in Ebay kits,They are not JCS clips, If T bolts are shyte then these are the next level of shyte. I used T bolt clips on my Audi with 2 bar of boost it's happy with no pipes coming off or boost leaks. with the supplied worm drive clips it was farting and singing with the boost leaks. Stainless or mild steel Bill ?
 
the problem is probably the pipes are not "bead rolled" and also using the existing hose onto the charge pipe it just pops off so easily, I managed to get the 2.5inch hard pipes connected behind the drivers headlight and it all seemed pretty solid with the engine running, but then I couldn't get the head light in. :#GRRRR:

blimey... does anyone wanna buy a pony S3 - I might by an ST instead. I actually had to pull some seedlings out of the wheel arch this afternoon. :D

the most annoying bit is I have blocked off access to the garage loo with all the tools and what not and as soon as I go outside the change in temperature makes me need a wee then I have to run through the house.

I would like to know how some people managed to keep the fog light grills? maybe they mounted the intercooler higher than me, as the piping cannot get any tighter than it is.

someone could make a killing if they actually sold a proper fitting kit for the toyosports intercoolers. I wonder if it is possible to upgrade the hard pipes I have, to make them more grippy. or alternatively I need to drive around under 3000 RPM.
 
yep - especially as I have tons of pointless 2.5 inch alloy piping flooding out my shed now :D

nope too long
nope too bent
nope too straight
ahhhhh... just right, but I only have one of them...
 
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Stuart B said:
yep - especially as I have tons of pointless 2.5 inch alloy piping flooding out my shed now :D

nope too long
nope too bent
nope too straight
ahhhhh... just right, but I only have one of them...
Click to expand...

Share The pipes dude... =]
 
I just bought 4 new ones in the hope of replacing the charge pipe rubber hose to meet the first of the two long 90 degree alloys.

these are pipe dreams really but £250 on pipes for a £70 intercooler is a joke. should have got an AIRTEC
 
tcg said:
You bought the wrong colour!
Click to expand...

You are of course correct as usual, I wanted a black intercooler but the silver one was £15 less but in the big scheme of things ( so much pointless alloy piping - I'm going to open a shop) I should have got an Airtec black with blue writing then when the car gives up the ghost I still have my 3inch Downpipe, B5 TIP and AIRTEC Intercooler - that's essentially the main components required for a new car.

LISTEN - if you are not an expert don't try and buy an intercooler and piping like I did for £150 - I have paid an additional £150 on other pipes, and ruined my already ruined bumper - so it no longer fits properly (that's only £100 or so less than an AIRTEC) - I might sell the S3 fog grills they are £40 each on eBay.

Incidentally, the intercooler has made no "noticeable" difference so far in the running of the car (although as previously stated my S3 is on its last legs) I am hoping the improvements are protection from hot air causing issues - rather than sudden rocket power.
 
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popped the next hose connector along off today! good job I keep my tools in the car all the time - I will keep running this until I have replaced all the connectors twice I reckon, my engine has TJ's issue so will need a rebuild / replacement soon.

what shall I do regarding picking up your broken K04? - good job this is a hobby and not important.
 
Stuart if you had gone about it correctly the first time, bought the list of pipes outlined in the FMIC thread, AND bought beaded pipes (why you wouldn't I don't know), it would've been done very easily for under £250 like hundreds of people have.
 
I unfortunately got lost in that thread, with a mixture of AH Fab, Forge and Welly, A3 over the engine 50, 76, 64 - welded 90 degree bends onto end cans, completely new end cans - and also I was never sure whether the new pipes were to join the charge pipe or the charge pipe rubber hose from behind the head light. essentially for an S3 and the cooler I got the only pipes you need are the ST 2.5 4 * long 90 degree - but with beads 2* 90 degree silicon and 2 straight silicon and reuse the charge pipe rubber hose (although I changed mine for an arrangement of 45 degree. 90 degree and straight alloy pipes)

the problem with the hoses popping off appears to be when the direction changes - eg a sudden push - I didn't do the clamps up tight enough either

also I think that the pipes should maybe be clamped to the car - my hearts not really in it - I should have got an AIRTEC :)
 
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Hey Stuart. If you're still having problems with your pipes blowing off you could try putting a few welds around the surface of the metal hoses so the clips have something to grip on when you slide the silicone hoses on. It's a bit pikey but that's what I had to do with a couple of mine and they stay on just fine.

Stainless steel Hi-Grips help alot too as already mentioned. I get mine from Westfield Fasteners which are cheaper than eBay.
 
Thanks yeah - I just had to put one back on this morning on a test run - so I am taking the bumper off today and having another look - I will return the main charge pipe rubber hose with a beaded short pipe and 90 degree silicon then reclaim the bits there - and see if I can get a 45 degree silicon arrangement to allow the grills on too.

to be fair there is something more serious going on with the engine now - with oil leaking and too much blow-by gas - blimey that reduces power)

I might consider a TT instead and sell this as spares and repairs soon.
 
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