Advice needed for tuning my S3 8L

Anthonyhindi1989

Anthonyhindi1989

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Hi guys, i recently bought a 53plate s3 low miles lovely Nogaro blue looks the b****x and love the look of it.
But i now want it to have more power what is the most i can get out of it on the stock internals and turbo?
If i was to fit the K418T hybrid wich can aparently go from 330-365hp, what would i need to uprate and who can i get to carry the work out, main thing is working out how much roughly ot would cost

Regards Ant
 
On stock internals you don't really want to go more than stage 2 after that you'd be better getting the internals done although there's no s magic number the internals can handle For a hybrid turbo You would need a
3" downpipe
High flow exhaust manifold
3"exhaust
Fmic
80mm tip
High pressure fuel pump
Uprated engine rods
And a wmi kit for best results and reliablity
Who to fit depends on what part of country you at
I might have missed something it's early
 
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Oh and maybe bigger injectors
 
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Ok sounds like quite a lot then expensive as well. I was gonna save a sum of about 5k doya rekon thats a good amount?
Also how would i go about having the work done like what gets done first for example exhaust pipe.... i like the sound of the tfsi conversion but i think the hybrid is a bit more economical to the bank
I live in Surrey/london
 
You could fmic, 80mm tip 3"downpipe and exhaust and get a stage 2 map and at a later date do internal, new turbo, exhaust manifold, hpfp.
Badger5 on here is highly recommended he's in Gloucester do as search he does loads of big turbo 1.8t builds

He also does a aet380 hybrid and exhaust manifold
https://m.facebook.com/Badger5Ltd/
 
Yeh i was thinking of doing that first but kinda just wanted to jump the gun straight to stage 3 but looks like ill go number 2 first.
Yes i went on his website last night had a little browse. Whats the hpfp?
And its only the rods that would need to be done internally i resd the pistons are good for big hp
 
Yeah only rods if engine is healthy. and maybe some of the valves depending on condition of the engine overall
Hpfp= high power fuel pump
Might be an idea to get a compression test done so you know you got a good starting point and no major surprises when it comes time for the rods
 
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Years ago i had a 1998 1.8.t audi and i put the s3 turbo on it and i remember they put an uprated fuel pump on my car.
But with my s3 surley the stock pump will be ok for stage 2, and then stage 3 i could change it. What about clutch on stage 3? I put vr6 g60 clutch on my last car
 
Yeah stock pump should be but their getting old now so you never know.but if just going stage 2 and old pump not up to it ( not saying it won't be) just replace with a stock one
 
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Ok mate and how about clutch? Just need to buy all the bits for my car now. Ive got a full miltek exhaust on it but have no idea what inch it is be a shame to have to change it
 
Miltek exhaust are 2.75" shouldn't have to change it just add a 3" downpipe to it

Clucth I couldn't tell you
 
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I was told when i geeting my rods done id have to get other things like
Supertech Lincoln exhaust guides
Dw65v fuel pump
20mm rifle drilled rods
Inlet valves if needed
Cat cam gold exhaust springs
Mybe new pistion rigs and pistions
Stern seals
And depending on how the head looks it might be that its needs rebore if its ovaled. I might have missed something but ive spoke to a few garages they say it and badger Bill has said the same cauae there high miles cars that are bout 16 year old. Do a lot of reading and ask as much questions and u will get on fine. Very helpful on this site even Stuart B. Sorry mate just slipped in. Good luck in ur build im starting one myself so be good to see how we get on.
 
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Oh i see i was told that drilled rods, valves if needed but aparently the pistons are ok standard as can take over 400 hp

Im going stage 2 for now and will do the hybrid when i have the moneu.
My car is a 2003 but has only done 82k would that make a difference?
 
That's a nice looking Noggy you have - if you don't need your front wings one day then I would be interested :) mine are rusty as....

82K is a good low mileage vehicle but service history and care and attention is important too.
 
Cheers pal and ill let you know haha but think ill be keeping it a while unless i buy an 8P but i like this model cos its oldskool just wish it was easily tuneable like the 8P

Yeh unfortunatly not a great deal of service history wich is annoying but the fella i bort it off worked for vag and he had lots of receipts of recent things that had been done ie Cambelt water pump 3k ago gear box service quite a few things actually also included a full respray. Pictures receipts.

Im gonna take it to a vag specialist round the corner from me in a couple weeks for a major service and health check.
 
I think these are more tuneable than the later models. plus they have pretty rears unlike the 8P which shares its body shell with every other A3.
 
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Yeh the 225 on stage 2 map to 285 on standard internals maby a little more if your lucky and cap the torque at 300 cos of weak rods. The 3 inch dowmpipe and decat will make it sound nice as well. Cant wait to get it done, but its stage 3 i realllly wanna do but need to save a bit more first mite look into that next year
 
Anthonyhindi1989 said:
Yeh the 225 on stage 2 map to 285 on standard internals maby a little more if your lucky and cap the torque at 300 cos of weak rods. The 3 inch dowmpipe and decat will make it sound nice as well. Cant wait to get it done, but its stage 3 i realllly wanna do but need to save a bit more first mite look into that next year
Click to expand...
That's a best case scenario.
 
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Got friend who produce 326bhp and 262-4whp on Stock Engine A3 1.8T with 390Nm Running 1.4Peak
The car produced much more, but as you know, wasn't safe.

Custom Downpipe
Custom Tubular Manifold with IHI VF37
Bosch 550cc
FMIC - Mid Size 550мм х 230мм х 65мм I think
S3 8L Oem Fuel Pump
1.8 - 125BHP Camshaft have Bigger humps, the only thing that has been changed.
The car also got 2 resonators + some "REMUS" exhaust 65mm from early 2000'
It's pretty quiet at idle, but when it comes to boost.. oi mate, that sound like mad motorbike. :scared2::yes::gun2:

I think it's matter about how healthy your engine is after all.
What i'm saying You can go easily till 400Nm at your own risk with stock internals.
That's what i decide at the moment Going with Custom work all around and TD05HR 16G6 10.5T
 
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Anthonyhindi1989 said:
Years ago i had a 1998 1.8.t audi and i put the s3 turbo on it and i remember they put an uprated fuel pump on my car.
But with my s3 surley the stock pump will be ok for stage 2, and then stage 3 i could change it. What about clutch on stage 3? I put vr6 g60 clutch on my last car
Click to expand...
pumps are old now.. we see quite a few weak ones now and change them frequently
 
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If you're going to do this right, get rods. You're taking a massive gamble on hybrid power with stock rods. Your valve stem seals are probably knackered and valve guides anyway. It's a gamble on stage 2 never mind hybrid levels.
 
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I am loving Ian's rods :)
Benders
 
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audi upgrades
Just a quick question.Has anyone tryed dm forged h- beam rifled drilled rods there only £425. Also when doing the rods do u need to change the big end bearings?
 
hydro s3 said:
Just a quick question.Has anyone tryed dm forged h- beam rifled drilled rods there only £425. Also when doing the rods do u need to change the big end bearings?
Click to expand...
Plenty have the DM rods, but they aren't rifle drilled.

Yes of course you need to change the bearings. If you have to ask that, you should probably be getting someone else to build it
 
superkarl said:
Plenty have the DM rods, but they aren't rifle drilled.

Yes of course you need to change the bearings. If you have to ask that, you should probably be getting someone else to build it
Click to expand...
I am getting some else to build it. I never said i was doing it. Im just getting the parts thats needed. Thats why i asked.
 
audi upgrades
So your saying ideally i should be doing a full engine rebuild just for a stage 2 map? Cars only got 82k on clock sounds very smooth no weird knocks when being driven pulls very smoothly through each gear. Would u say all cars over a certain age should have engine builds? Or is it just a preference?
JonnyDerv said:
If you're going to do this right, get rods. You're taking a massive gamble on hybrid power with stock rods. Your valve stem seals are probably knackered and valve guides anyway. It's a gamble on stage 2 never mind hybrid levels.
Click to expand...
 
It's not to do with mileage (although it is for valve stem seals and guides), it's the torque you're putting through the rods. If you've ever seen a stock 1.8T rod they're thin as ****, they're very weak. 300lbs ft is the mythical limit but rods have failed on stage 1 maps, some last longer, it's a lottery. Hybrid power in my opinion, you're on borrowed time. A rod snapping is game over.

If you want to take the risk that's fine but personally I wouldn't risk it. Forged rods are a must. Do it once, do it right, cheaper in the long run.
 
The integrated engineering rods in badger5's shop is what I have and they're top notch
 
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