JB4 info and discussion thread

+1 for JB4, very good!


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Guys what I need to watch my data logs like this?
 

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mw1978 said:
Guys what I need to watch my data logs like this?
Click to expand...
Log boost and not target so you can see what boost your car hits.

What map is this? What gear? What fuel? any mods?

There is a little timing pull but only 1 cylinder so, mine had this but in 4th and 5th gear it isn't there so it's more likely a vibration one of the knock sensors is picking up, your car hits 10 timing by redline which is what you want

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Thanks Oli for reply. My question wasn't clear enough. I asked how I can graph my datalog like on above picture. I know how to datalog my car but I have no idea what app or how to graph so nice my logs.
 
mw1978 said:
Thanks Oli for reply. My question wasn't clear enough. I asked how I can graph my datalog like on above picture. I know how to datalog my car but I have no idea what app or how to graph so nice my logs.
Click to expand...

Sorry I've read it again and I think it was my mistake.

That looks like it is off the jb4 desktop software, the mobile app only allows 10 parameters. You can download it off burgers site. If you want to use your phone you have to pay for the app as it's a 3rd party developer
mw1978 said:
Thanks Oli for reply. My question wasn't clear enough. I asked how I can graph my datalog like on above picture. I know how to datalog my car but I have no idea what app or how to graph so nice my logs.
Click to expand...


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Question, is the mobile app worth it? I meant if I don't do adjustment all the time and usually just set it once and that's it, should I not bother with it? Or JB4 is better with constant fine tuning and adjustment on the run? Thx!
 
larbel said:
Question, is the mobile app worth it? I meant if I don't do adjustment all the time and usually just set it once and that's it, should I not bother with it? Or JB4 is better with constant fine tuning and adjustment on the run? Thx!
Click to expand...
I'd forget the app then and stick with a laptop. I got it with free play store credits so it was technically free for me and my laptop is massive and the battery needs replacing

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OliS3 said:
I'd forget the app then and stick with a laptop. I got it with free play store credits so it was technically free for me and my laptop is massive and the battery needs replacing

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Click to expand...

I have free play store credits too, but doesn't it require the adapter that's $140 too?
 
i did 3 wots today on map 6 with this setings
1500 17
2000 18
2500 19
3000 22
3500 23
4000 24
4500 23
5000 22
5500 21

FOL 60
mods VW R600 intake and fuel shell vpower racing ron 100
 

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mw1978 said:
i did 3 wots today on map 6 with this setings
1500 17
2000 18
2500 19
3000 22
3500 23
4000 24
4500 23
5000 22
5500 21

FOL 60
mods VW R600 intake and fuel shell vpower racing ron 100
Click to expand...

Doesn't look bad at all, could you log ING1-5 as well please? So we can see if there is any timing pull.
 
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OliS3 said:
Doesn't look bad at all, could you log ING1-5 as well please? So we can see if there is any timing pull.
Click to expand...
I can send You email with my data logs if you want? Drop me PM with email.
 
OliS3 said:
Use dynamic and when in sports auto switch to manual with at least sports traction control or fully off. switch to manual, in 3rd at 3k put the power down but don't hit the kick down switch, once your past 50mph you can hold it to the floor even though it doesn't make a difference. Ideally finish 4th gear as well as it has no boost restrictions, good air flow and extra load over 3rd.

Hope even though that sounds long winded it helps

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Click to expand...

Car feels so ****** quick now (JB4 + intake + tip + custom map6) that I nowadays always stay in D... :grinning:
 
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mw1978 said:
I'm confused because when I first time opened jb4 I have seen fuel close loop set to 60!
George wrote this:
You JB4 should ship with a fuel open loop value of 40. The maximum you can go is 60. Increasing the value will lower trim levels by increasing rail pressure. Dropping the value will increase trims values.
Click to expand...
It was 60, sorry for the delay in replying. George said there is hardly any difference between 60 and 50

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Adding this install video for reference. It's on a Golf R but you guys get the idea

 
Btw to you RHD guys, read on vwroc that a few got burn marks on the obd cable, in one case it actually stopped working, due to being routed close to the downpipe.

Probably not an issue if routed properly, but just wanted to make you aware...
 
Ran my first additive map settings today as suggested by George. A massive difference in power delivery, very linear and any jerkiness that was there previously has now gone.
I'm running 98RON with the following mods.
BMS Intake with larger turbo inlet elbow
BMS turbo muffler delete
GFB Diverter valve +

Also managed to break the 4 second barrier for the first time, so I am very happy

a52dec08a3781f4a6da47043a952bd6f.jpg

a4bbbc2f760cdde9d1b5772a721a0125.jpg



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S3 Turbo said:
Btw to you RHD guys, read on vwroc that a few got burn marks on the obd cable, in one case it actually stopped working, due to being routed close to the downpipe.

Probably not an issue if routed properly, but just wanted to make you aware...
Click to expand...
Any idea what to do on obd cable, its very close to downpipe and turbo. Was thinking to wrap the cable with heat proof piping or heat wrap.

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Salik Sajid said:
Any idea what to do on obd cable, its very close to downpipe and turbo. Was thinking to wrap the cable with heat proof piping or heat wrap.

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Click to expand...
You can buy heat wrap on ebay that will be fine for the job

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Salik Sajid said:
Any idea what to do on obd cable, its very close to downpipe and turbo. Was thinking to wrap the cable with heat proof piping or heat wrap.

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Click to expand...

A guy in the other thread bought heat resistent cable sleeve (glas fibre based I think) rated for 800C.
 
audi upgrades
S3 Turbo said:
Btw to you RHD guys, read on vwroc that a few got burn marks on the obd cable, in one case it actually stopped working, due to being routed close to the downpipe.

Probably not an issue if routed properly, but just wanted to make you aware...
Click to expand...

I ran my OBD cable through a rubber grommet in the firewall behind the battery. Basically plug into the OBD port, run the cable behind the airbag for your knees, run behind the centre console and into the passenger side footwell. The grommet is high up behind the glovebox, it's a bit of a ****** to access, but if you tape the end of the cable to something like a coat hanger, you can poke it through the firewall into the engine bay. It's also easier if you have someone on the other side helping to pull the cable through.

This method of routing the cable totally avoids having to go anywhere near the exhaust or turbo itself.

I'll try to get some photos of my set up and post them for everyone.


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Wood_Duck said:
I ran my OBD cable through a rubber grommet in the firewall behind the battery. Basically plug into the OBD port, run the cable behind the airbag for your knees, run behind the centre console and into the passenger side footwell. The grommet is high up behind the glovebox, it's a bit of a ****** to access, but if you tape the end of the cable to something like a coat hanger, you can poke it through the firewall into the engine bay. It's also easier if you have someone on the other side helping to pull the cable through.

This method of routing the cable totally avoids having to go anywhere near the exhaust or turbo itself.

I'll try to get some photos of my set up and post them for everyone.


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Click to expand...

Sweet!

Esentially you get LHD install in a RHD. :)
 
Does anyone try to set boost on first gear for best launch
 
Another question... Does the exhaust sound any different stock vs JB4? And will adjusting the fuel map results in more overrun pops and crackles?
 
larbel said:
Another question... Does the exhaust sound any different stock vs JB4? And will adjusting the fuel map results in more overrun pops and crackles?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately not, you get a more aggressive sound on the power but don't expect much to change in the way of sound
 
Didn't notice any difference either.
Look at exhaust flapper mod, intake, inlet elbow, and ofcourse downpipe, catback if you want more sound...
 
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I'm booking myself in for a rolling road at MSL performance in Birmingham in a few weeks. Got 3 runs so need to decide between 2 runs of map 6 and 1 of map 2 or a stock run as a baseline.

Baseline makes more sense to me at the moment

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Stock car, run in fairly hard. Responded to extra boost well with 99 ron. 360/360 sounds like a happy target?

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OliS3 said:
Stock car, run in fairly hard. Responded to extra boost well with 99 ron. 360/360 sounds like a happy target?

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Click to expand...

Based on other results that I have read, yes, 360 crank hp+ sounds very likely with a properly tuned map 6 and 99.
Unless having a very conservative dyno like Mustang.

Stock as baseline would be most interesting.

Looking forward for the results!
 
S3 Turbo said:
Based on other results that I have read, yes, 360 crank hp+ sounds very likely with a properly tuned map 6 and 99.
Unless having a very conservative dyno like Mustang.

Stock as baseline would be most interesting.

Looking forward for the results!
Click to expand...
I think I'll do a baseline, seems best use of a run. I've always run my cars in fairly hard and so far I've always made more power than most at stock. I'm not talking full throttle, drive it like you've stole it but over 4k and using a lot of lift off with light power to get to the higher revs and hopefully break the rings in well.

So anyway a baseline would be good and so far my map 6 is amazing, I'll try some 4th gear pulls from low revs as I guess that's what the operator will use to make sure it's OK and see what she does.

I'd love to have an hour testing maps but I'd be looking at £200 plus for very little gain

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Sounds like a good plan.

Btw if you don't know already, read that George recommends running map 0 last during dyno session so that box is properly adapted during the tuned runs.
 
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S3 Turbo said:
Sounds like a good plan.

Btw if you don't know already, read that George recommends running map 0 last during dyno session so that box is properly adapted during the tuned runs.
Click to expand...
I'veread that as well but thanks for posting it!

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My S3 saloon,19 wheels, JB4 map6, r600 intake
1FA55CA9-370B-4C16-9238-FCCBDF27A4E0_zpsbdwzobno.jpg

72031495-7190-43AE-BE08-D8E3AB200032_zpsjthrgh7g.jpg
 
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Oli so finally what have You done for best launching?
Launching from 3000-3500 rpms or set boost limiter on first gear?

I have to set boost limiter on first gear because torque limiter killing my launching
Yesterday after one atemp I have seen for two second some yellow. abs error or something like this. I'm not sure because gone after 1 sec. No EPC light on dash
 
mw1978 said:
Oli so finally what have You done for best launching?
Launching from 3000-3500 rpms or set boost limiter on first gear?

I have to set boost limiter on first gear because torque limiter killing my launching
Yesterday after one atemp I have seen for two second some yellow. abs error or something like this. I'm not sure because gone after 1 sec. No EPC light on dash
Click to expand...

I gave up using 3k to launch and set the boost limit to 18.5psi in first and now I can launch just fine.

Try 19, 18.5 and 18, I found 19 was ok most of the time but 18.5 has worked every time so far
 
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i got the heat sleeve on the obd cable and hopefully it wont be a problem later in summer.
 
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