Boost problem S3 apy

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Lalands3

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so my car will be fine for two weeks boosting fine, and then for a few days it will just not boost over 0 psi i have no lights on dash car just seems to be very very slow! Not smoking or anything either and all pipes are connected im thinking maf so i unplugged maf and still no difference? What else could it be?!
 
Fault codes? logged actual boost or is this reading from a boost gauge?

zero boost suggests seized turbo...

<tuffty/>
 
Reading from boost gauge its happened about 4 times since owning it had it for about 4 months it will be like this for a couple days then start boosting again fine?
 
audi upgrades
Also how would i confirm the turbo has seized?
 
Scan for fault codes first... if its intermittent then its either ECU intervention due to a fault it thinks it has (there will be a fault code for this) or a mechanical issue...

To check the turbo you can take the TIP off and check if the assembly has play and spins from there...

<tuffty/>
 
Will a normal obd scanner pick up the codes? And also will check turbo tomorrow, the thing that gets me is its itermittent last time it happened i left the battery disconected for a few hours and it was fine again
 
No the odb scanner will only pick up genetic codes you need vcds
 
Dont have access to vcds sadly, i know its a long shot but what can stop the car from boosting if the turbo is fine and not seized what would you suggest it was? You may not be able to help without codes i understand but i just want ideas
 
zero boost is non spinny turbo (seized or seizing), or wastegate open.. either way not a good sign obviously.
 
normal scanner would be a start... VCDS would be better due to VAG granularity on P codes...

Disconnecting the battery won't realistically have done anything to alleviate the issue as its not any different to cycling the ignition..

Intermittent issues can be a pain to find but there are only a few things it could be... but need to see if there are any codes as this would help with diagnosing the issue...

These cars should come with VCDS as standard as its one of the most useful tools in your toolkit for helping to sort issues inherent with S3 ownership

<tuffty/>
 
If the turbo is seized will it harm the car by driving it? As i plan to drive it into my work tomorrow and try and diagnose further....?
 
I wouldn't want to be driving it long term or 'hard' if it is but it should be drivable at least...

<tuffty/>
 
Just a quick one... what would cause a turbo to seize a blocked pipe?
 
Just checked it, the inside feels fine moves freely and has minimal play however i turnt the car on to see if it spun and it doesnt? Im guessing thats not right
 
Lalands3 said:
Just checked it, the inside feels fine moves freely and has minimal play however i turnt the car on to see if it spun and it doesnt? Im guessing thats not right
Click to expand...

its not a good sign no.... with the TIP off, MAF unplugged and engine on you should see the compressor wheel spinning... (don't stick your fingers in there obviously)...

If not then chances are the turbo is toast

<tuffty/>
 
Turbo now feels like its locked up so i guess thats that its new turbo time
 
audi upgrades
...you could try cleaning it when its off I guess (soaking in kerosene, lots of brake cleaner and blowing through with an airline) but I would need to be properly convinced its totally clear before I'd reuse it... I'd just buy another one and be done personally...

<tuffty/>
 
If you have time why not rebuild the turbo with a service kit, or even better buy tfsi internal bits or whatever and mash up your own hybrid? What's the worst that could happen? #£_&!!
Might need to spend $1m to get it balanced or whatever?
 
Currently waiting for a space at my local garage to have my turbo changed.I will be getting a replacement standard turbo from these people...

http://www.turbotechnics.com/

These are the prices they quoted me...

Repairs start from £150+VAT.

Turbo Technics New Unit in stock on exchange, £300+VAT

Our Hybrid turbo, With big trim Billet wheel, 360 thrust bearing and competition seal pack and high flow shaft, £450+VAT.

£75 surcharge on replacement turbo(14 day return policy for refund of surcharge)

Free UK Mainland Delivery

Hopefully the replacement will be fine.Also need to replace the Turbo oil feed pipe so got a quote from Audi @ £151.The only difference I could see between oem (Audi) and an aftermarket one is that the oem one has brackets to fix it to the engine,I would hope it would be possible to 'tie' the aftermarket one to another pipe/bracket without issues.

I've ordered a new oil feed pipe from here (last one of current stock)...

http://www.mattlewisracing.co.uk/pr...ip_brake_lines_hose_pipes___matt_lewis_racing

This site also does them...

http://auto.helperformance.com/auto#kit_manufacturer=185

I believe there may be different fittings on the pipe where it attaches to the oil filter housing depending on model/engine code so best to contact them first to make sure you get the right one if you choose to use either one of them.

As said,haven't got the turbo yet or fitted the oil feed pipe so can only give pointers,not guarantees.No doubt there are more knowledgeable people on here concerning turbos,etc.

hth
 
tcg said:
Currently waiting for a space at my local garage to have my turbo changed.I will be getting a replacement standard turbo from these people...

http://www.turbotechnics.com/

These are the prices they quoted me...

Repairs start from £150+VAT.

Turbo Technics New Unit in stock on exchange, £300+VAT

Our Hybrid turbo, With big trim Billet wheel, 360 thrust bearing and competition seal pack and high flow shaft, £450+VAT.

£75 surcharge on replacement turbo(14 day return policy for refund of surcharge)

Free UK Mainland Delivery

Hopefully the replacement will be fine.Also need to replace the Turbo oil feed pipe so got a quote from Audi @ £151.The only difference I could see between oem (Audi) and an aftermarket one is that the oem one has brackets to fix it to the engine,I would hope it would be possible to 'tie' the aftermarket one to another pipe/bracket without issues.

I've ordered a new oil feed pipe from here (last one of current stock)...

http://www.mattlewisracing.co.uk/pr...ip_brake_lines_hose_pipes___matt_lewis_racing

This site also does them...

http://auto.helperformance.com/auto#kit_manufacturer=185

I believe there may be different fittings on the pipe where it attaches to the oil filter housing depending on model/engine code so best to contact them first to make sure you get the right one if you choose to use either one of them.

As said,haven't got the turbo yet or fitted the oil feed pipe so can only give pointers,not guarantees.No doubt there are more knowledgeable people on here concerning turbos,etc.

hth
Click to expand...

you dont get the heatshielding over the turbo end on the linked oil feed pipe. If you look at where the pipe routed its right under the exhaust manifold so subject to a lot of heat, hence why VAG chose to add additional heatshielding over that end. Just beware. Oil fire will not be a pleasant thing.

"repairs" mean what exactly? £150+vat = £180, where new Genuine BW chra is £206

What you opting for?
 
Thanks for the 'heads up' on the oil pipe.Might need to 'heat wrap' turbo end then.

Don't want to hack the OP's thread too much but I'm going for a standard replacement turbo so the car will hopefully be on the road a.s.a.p.
 
tcg said:
Thanks for the 'heads up' on the oil pipe.Might need to 'heat wrap' turbo end then.

Don't want to hack the OP's thread too much but I'm going for a standard replacement turbo so the car will hopefully be on the road a.s.a.p.
Click to expand...

The CHRA Bill is on about and I linked too is a genuine standard Borg Warner unit... just swap it into your housings and good to go..

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
The CHRA Bill is on about and I linked too is a genuine standard Borg Warner unit... just swap it into your housings and good to go..
Click to expand...

Yeah,came across that one when I first looked at options,always worth a nosey at Bill's site :yes:

Unfortunately due to my epic fail at even getting close to removing the turbo,I thought best just to get a new one and remove the main variant (myself) from the equation.

Hat's off to anyone changing their turbo DIY :hi:
 
audi upgrades
badger5 said:
or just buy a new chra core for £205 ;)
Click to expand...

so assuming the turbo casing is not damaged - you can simply replace the internals with this CHRA and that will return it to a standard K04?

does this actually include buying a cheap Chinese Turbo and putting in a decent internal? or are the Chinese copy outer turbo's also problematic - I recall reading comments about "the penny being too small" (that's what she said) is that part of this replacement CHRA or ab additional "porting" required - or is the metal these Chinese Turbo's made of also tat?
 
tcg said:
Currently waiting for a space at my local garage to have my turbo changed.I will be getting a replacement standard turbo from these people...

http://www.turbotechnics.com/

These are the prices they quoted me...

Repairs start from £150+VAT.

Turbo Technics New Unit in stock on exchange, £300+VAT

Our Hybrid turbo, With big trim Billet wheel, 360 thrust bearing and competition seal pack and high flow shaft, £450+VAT.

£75 surcharge on replacement turbo(14 day return policy for refund of surcharge)

Free UK Mainland Delivery

Hopefully the replacement will be fine.Also need to replace the Turbo oil feed pipe so got a quote from Audi @ £151.The only difference I could see between oem (Audi) and an aftermarket one is that the oem one has brackets to fix it to the engine,I would hope it would be possible to 'tie' the aftermarket one to another pipe/bracket without issues.

I've ordered a new oil feed pipe from here (last one of current stock)...

http://www.mattlewisracing.co.uk/pr...ip_brake_lines_hose_pipes___matt_lewis_racing

This site also does them...

http://auto.helperformance.com/auto#kit_manufacturer=185

I believe there may be different fittings on the pipe where it attaches to the oil filter housing depending on model/engine code so best to contact them first to make sure you get the right one if you choose to use either one of them.

As said,haven't got the turbo yet or fitted the oil feed pipe so can only give pointers,not guarantees.No doubt there are more knowledgeable people on here concerning turbos,etc.

hth
Click to expand...

A company called TurboTehnics made a Peugeot 205 GTI body kit and I assume a turbo back in the 80's - I wonder if they know stoksy? he crashed his into a bus.

this looks familiar (style not ownership)? no one liked him (well slags did)

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d101/mark14spitfire/DSCF1462.jpg
 
Stuart B said:
so assuming the turbo casing is not damaged - you can simply replace the internals with this CHRA and that will return it to a standard K04?
Click to expand...

Yes

Stuart B said:
does this actually include buying a cheap Chinese Turbo and putting in a decent internal? or are the Chinese copy outer turbo's also problematic - I recall reading comments about "the penny being too small" (that's what she said) is that part of this replacement CHRA or ab additional "porting" required - or is the metal these Chinese Turbo's made of also tat?
Click to expand...

Chinese housings are generally rubbish... they need work to get them usable and I would be very surprised if the housings just fit because chinese tolerances aren't all that... be very surprised if the profiles of the wheels were different enough to hurt performance

<tuffty/>
 
okay cool thanks for the details (as always very helpful) now I am pretty sure I know the answer but.... can I lean over the top of the engine and change the K04 turbo CHRA in situ? or does the Turbo need to be removed and put on a bench, split hotside / cold side in order to get the replacement stuff installed?
 
Stuart B said:
okay cool thanks for the details (as always very helpful) now I am pretty sure I know the answer but.... can I lean over the top of the engine and change the K04 turbo CHRA in situ? or does the Turbo need to be removed and put on a bench, split hotside / cold side in order to get the replacement stuff installed?
Click to expand...

LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL... I think you know the answer to that ;)

<tuffty/>
 
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