MAF Upgrade on AUDI A4 1.9 TDI (130hp)

Kalkin

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Good Morning to everyone.
I have an Audi A4 1.9TDI (130hp). With a remap I got it to 196hp and would like to change the MAF so that in can read more than 1.5 bars.
My turbo at full load works at 1.6 bar so my MAF can not read more than 1.5. Does anyone knows any MAF that fits this car and can read more BARS.
Thanks very much.



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Please tell more about that map to 190?
And about the sensor if anyone has any info it's something I am very interested in..

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The MAF does not read boost pressure the MAP sensor does. MAF measures air flow not pressure.
If your car has a 2.5 bar MAP sensor fitted then it just needs to be changed to a 3 bar sensor. This requires the calibration of the MAP sensor to be altered in the ECU map as well.
What part number is the MAP sensor that you have at the moment ? .
http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/sensors/
 
Please tell more about that map to 190?
And about the sensor if anyone has any info it's something I am very interested in..

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About the program. The only thing I know is that for this engine (with the 130hp) there are 3 programs. The one with 150hp, with 170hp and 190hp. Don't know to tell you more. It's better to ask a tuner specialist, or APR, MTM.


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You can't get 196bhp out of a 130 TDI engine with a standard turbo. Not reliably at least, that is way past the point of reliable power for the standard turbo. Also forgot to say that sometimes the diagnostic values in the ECU map do not allow the maximum boost pressure to be displayed when it is logged. This is due to the scaling and linearisation factors used in the map.
The car could have a 3 bar sensor and you could be specifying 1.8 bar of boost but the diagnostic limits of the standard map mean boost pressure higher than 1.6 bar wont be displayed. It will just goto 2600 mbar maximum despite the fact that the ECU is controlling the boost at 1.8 bar.
I went through all this when I was mapping my AWX engine.
Look for the section adjusting diagnostic boost limits.
http://www.ecuedit.com/golf-4-alh-edc15-t502
Also
http://www.ecuconnections.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4094&hilit=asz+tuned+file&start=200
 
You can't get 196bhp out of a 130 TDI engine with a standard turbo. Not reliably at least, that is way past the point of reliable power for the standard turbo. Also forgot to say that sometimes the diagnostic values in the ECU map do not allow the maximum boost pressure to be displayed when it is logged. This is due to the scaling and linearisation factors used in the map.
The car could have a 3 bar sensor and you could be specifying 1.8 bar of boost but the diagnostic limits of the standard map mean boost pressure higher than 1.6 bar wont be displayed. It will just goto 2600 mbar maximum despite the fact that the ECU is controlling the boost at 1.8 bar.
I went through all this when I was mapping my AWX engine.
Look for the section adjusting diagnostic boost limits.
http://www.ecuedit.com/golf-4-alh-edc15-t502
Also
http://www.ecuconnections.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4094&hilit=asz+tuned+file&start=200

IMG 20141121 111635




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Maybe but I have it so 3 years with no problem. Also, other I have seen more people with the same car with 190bhp.


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Front wheel drive.


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All the places I've asked about the remap, they all give me a max power of just over 170bhp..
I'd love to get 190bhp..
Have done any other mods prior to remap..?

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No nothing. I wanted only a few more horsepower. Now I am thinking to upgrade the MAP, to put a bit bigger turbo (bv43 or VNT 17/22) so that it will not work at maximum and finally to change the intercooler to that of the 2.7 TDI.


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I'm looking to get my hands on a bv43 turbo too..
As for the intercooler I want a fmic.
Then the 2.0 170bhp injectors and map it to 240bhp.
And I don't think you need to change the map sensor.. At least I never heard of anyone who had to change it..

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Those 2 turbos are nearly the same as I know.

If I remember the stock injectors work fine if you have lower than 240bhp (but better make a search for that).

I would only change the MAP sensor so that the ECU could read the right pressure.


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Bv43 turbo is slightly bigger and gives more power when mapped..
Yeah.. I'm changing the injectors because I want more than 200bhp.

Since I'm upgrading why lot..
I'll do the whole lot to be on the safe side..

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I wanted to write 250.

It's better so. I would do the same, isn't the b7 intake different? I haven't searched that so I don't know. The only think I know is the B6 was Pusan pump bit the B7 has Common rail system.


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Just to let you know where I am from, I spent a lot of time mapping and tweaking the PD130 in my Passat estate and eventually fitted a BV43 to it that made around 210 bhp and 460Nm of torque . That was running 1.8 bar of boost. It ran a fastest time of 14.9 s at 93mph at santa pod. Here is a video of a slow run against an S2000. Poor track conditions as you can see the black clouds they had only just reopened the track after it had rained, and there was about a 20 mph head wind. Still a lot quicker than the s2000 that you can hear revving away.

I have seen many dyno plots for cars over the years so when I saw your figures a few things jumped out at me.
For a FWD car the transmission losses are daft 35.7 bhp is very nearly 20% loss which is the kind of figure you would get on a quattro car. No FWD car has transmission losses like that, it's typically somewhere between 11 and 14% .
Assuming 13% loss with 148.9 bhp at the wheels that would be 148.9 / 0.87 = 171.1 bhp uncorrected.

This brings us to the second big issue the amount of bhp you gain when it is corrected.
It goes from 184.6 to 196.5 bhp an increase of nearly 12bhp ????? .
I have never seen that kind of gain on such a low power car. sure if the car has 5-600 bhp you might see that kind of correction depending on the temperature. But the temperature was only 23.9 degrees and the atmospheric pressure fairly standard at 1005mb.
The correction factor used was DIN 70020
http://www.scielo.br/pdf/jbsmse/v25n3/a10v25n3.pdf
Upload 2016 12 11 1 1 56

P0 and T0 are fixed values defined as P0= 1013.25mBar and T0 is 293K which is 20 degrees C.
So if the atmospheric pressure was 1013.25 mBar and the temperature was 20 degrees the correction factor would be 1. The atmospheric pressure and temperature weren't that far off this.
Putting in the values from the results pressure at 1005.5 mBar and 23.9 degrees

correction factor = 1005.5 / 1013.25 x square root (293 /297 ) that works out to 0.9923 x 0.9932 =0.9855

applying that correction factor to the calculated value that you have 184.6 bhp
184.6 / 0.9855 = 187.4 bhp corrected which is nowhere near 195 bhp

I thought it was funny the intake temperature of 56 degrees was mentioned. so putting that in the formula

correction factor = 1005.5/1013.25 x square root (293/329 ) that works out to 0.9923 x 0.9437 = 0.9364

applying that correction factor to the calculated value that you have 184.6 bhp
184.6 / 0.9364 = 197.1 pretty close to the 196.5 bhp that is what is calculated.

I have never seen anybody use the intake temperature in the engine itself to calculate a correction factor, Thats completely daft . No wonder it's added so much power as it's basically assuming your car was running in the hottest desert on earth.

So taking the more sensible 13% transmission loss figure of 171.1 bhp and applying a more realistic correction factor 171.1 / 0.9855 = 173.6 bhp
so around 175 bhp which is where most phase 1 maps end up with completely standard hardware.

Your tuner hasn't found some magical way of extracting more power from this engine than anybody else, he just fiddles the dyno results.
 
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I had so much loss because I needed to change the clutch. I had not checked it again. But I have found other 130PD cars with the same NHL. I will not argue with you but that are the results.


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Those results are BS there's a few poorly set up dyno's about giving 'willy waving' generous figures .

They are easily caught out as every car makes 12- 20 bhp average is normally around 15 bhp more generous than stock map , so when remapped its 15 bhp or so too high.

Guilty dyno's are
Celtic Tuning and Awesome GTI .

You need to put it on a properly set up 'heart breaker' dyno .

What exhaust system have you ?
 
My car is stock.
The DYNO was a MAHA DYNO 3000.


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So you have a cat in place , 2.25 " pipework and 2 silencers with the direct route of a maze .

Lets just call it a HAHA DYNO 3000 .
 
I had so much loss because I needed to change the clutch. I had not checked it again. But I have found other 130PD cars with the same NHL. I will not argue with you but that are the results.
:)
 

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