which of these codes is most likely the problem?

ttthomas94 · Dec 3, 2016

1 Fault Found:
005491 - Left Engine Mount Solenoid Valve (N144)
P1573 - 001 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 187594 km
Time Indication: 0

1 Fault Found:
01826 - Sensor for Steering Angle (G85); Supply Voltage Terminal 30
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 40
Time Indication: 0

1 Fault Found:
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
80-00 - Single-Wire Operation

The above codes have come back after clearing everything. Im not sure which one is causing the problem though.
Car is an A4 b7 3.0tdi
Battery was run flat when I was installing my new head unit and since then only turns over but doesnt fire.
Any help would be much appreciated.

desertstorm · Dec 3, 2016

None of those would really stop the engine starting. The steering angle sensor G85 is fed from the steering column electronics unit looking at the wiring diagram. Check fuses 7,13 and 14 to see if they are OK. What did you do with the diagnostic connections to the OE radio. Sometimes there is an issue with these if they are grounded or have power put on them . Does it make any attempt to start at all or just turns over.

ttthomas94 · Dec 3, 2016

Fuses are all ok. The unused cables are just hanging but don't seem to be in contact with anything that would cause problems. No attempt to start at all.

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Retroman · Dec 3, 2016

I assume the starter is turning over the engine but the engine is not starting? I would try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes and then connect it - sometimes this acts in the same way as "rebooting" a home PC when it locks/freezes. From what you said, you did the work with the battery connected which may have caused the ECU to trigger the immobiliser?

ttthomas94 · Dec 3, 2016

I've tried the reboot and it didn't help. The starter is turning yes but no combustion. If the immobiliser was tripped would it throw up a code? Also ive heard if the immobiliser was tripped the car would start but shut off a second later.

desertstorm · Dec 3, 2016

Typically if it's an immobiliser issue the car will start for a few seconds and cut out. It should display a fault code as well. Daft question there is diesel in it?.

ttthomas94 · Dec 3, 2016

Reading over half a tank anyway. And theres diesel bubbling out when I cracked the nut on the fuel rail. This is becoming a right pain and its now three weeks since it last ran. I was hoping buying VCDS would point out the problem.

desertstorm · Dec 3, 2016

Is the car turning over fast enough? . If the battery is the original one running it flat may have been the last nail in the coffin for it. If you aren't sure the battery is turning the engine quick enough you could try jumpstarting it. Also diesels will fire and run with easy start which can sometimes help to prime the fuel system.

ttthomas94 · Dec 3, 2016

It doesnt feel overly slow anyway. Ive tried jumping and charging the battery as I thought the same. I also swapped batteries with another car and there was no noticeable difference. Where would i spray the easy start? Into the intake manifold?

desertstorm · Dec 3, 2016

https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/support/can-use-bradex-easy-start-diesel-engine/
If there are no fault codes and it doesn't start and you have VAG-COM try logging the fuel pressure when cranking. Normally you should see at least 250-300 bar which is 250,000-300,000 hPa.

ttthomas94 · Dec 3, 2016

High fuel pressure remains at 0 while cranking.

ttthomas94 · Dec 3, 2016

I thought the High pressure fuel pump was belt driven so how can that be? Engine was cranking at about 140rpm btw

Retroman · Dec 3, 2016

Would a fused LPFP (feeding the mechanical HPFP) show up on VCDS?

Peter Metcalf · Dec 3, 2016

I know it might sound silly but a rover I had wouldn't start when I changed a stereo exactly the same symptoms turned out I knocked the fuel cut off switch which was located behind the stereo

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ttthomas94 · Dec 3, 2016

Peter Metcalf said:
I know it might sound silly but a rover I had wouldn't start when I changed a stereo exactly the same symptoms turned out I knocked the fuel cut off switch which was located behind the stereo

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I've not heard of that with an Audi but I'm not an expert so something like that might have happened.

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Peter Metcalf · Dec 3, 2016

ttthomas94 said:
I've not heard of that with an Audi but I'm not an expert so something like that might have happened.

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I can't see it as this was in the late 90s but you never know fingers crossed it's something simple

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desertstorm · Dec 3, 2016

No fuel cut off switch on an Audi. If the fuel pressure is zero then it's not going to start. I would check the pump in the tank is priming the system.
With VAG-COM you can use the output facility on the ECU to switch the in tank pump on . If you undo the fuel pipe where it comes into the fuel filter and turn the pump on you should get a good squirt of fuel.

ttthomas94 · Dec 3, 2016

desertstorm said:
No fuel cut off switch on an Audi. If the fuel pressure is zero then it's not going to start. I would check the pump in the tank is priming the system.
With VAG-COM you can use the output facility on the ECU to switch the in tank pump on . If you undo the fuel pipe where it comes into the fuel filter and turn the pump on you should get a good squirt of fuel.

Would this be the same method used to fill the fuel filter after it's been changed? Just got vcds today so still getting to grips with it.

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desertstorm · Dec 4, 2016

ttthomas94 · Dec 4, 2016

Went to try running the LPFP this morning through VCDS but it hasnt given me the option in the drop down list.
I went,
Select control module, engine, basic settings and was expecting to see fuel supply pump activation in the drop down list.

desertstorm · Dec 11, 2016

@ttthomas94 To activate the in tank pump look in the output section of VCDS.

http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/out_test.php

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_350.pdf

ttthomas94 · Dec 20, 2016

Got the problem sorted. I was looking in the totally wrong place. When I wires my head unit I had to move the pins to get the 12v and switched 12v in the right place. Somehow this told the car the hu had been stolen which for some stupid reason shuts down the whole car. Just glad it wasn't an expensive fix.

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