B5 manifold

SamHendry

SamHendry

Registered User
Joined
Nov 10, 2014
Messages
827
Reaction score
165
Points
43
Hello Audi lovers! Unfortunately for me I have the task of TRYING to fit this lump of metal (damn its heavy) into my bay this w.e. Before I throw myself in and get stuck at the first hurdle (happens all the time) I'm asking for any tips or tricks?

Before I get told 'do a search' I have searched and there is good info on the topic. Migzz did a really good guide and he made it look easy but I believe that was on a3 not my car s3.

I plan going in from the top, head left on. Well I'll go in from anywhere if it means gaining access!

What size are the oe manifold nuts? 12 or 13mm?

Whats the best socket for those horrible manifold to turbo oe bolts?
 
the standard manifold to turbo bolts are either E14 or E16 - I read E14 but the E16 socket fit them correctly. one of mine was seized and I snapped the tool and rounded it off. I should have made sure the bolt was hot first. - I needed to drill it off and replace it - they are £15 quid each.

pretty sure the manifold to head nuts are 12mm I sheared off 2 of these and needed heat and stilsons to remove the snapped studs.

All of mine was done with the head off.
 
I recently got the turbo out with everything in place so I guess I can help out up until that point?

i would recommend 3/8" ratchet with a set of extensions, universal joints and regular sockets, deep well sockets, allen key and stubby spanners

You might want to consider removing the drivers side engine mount, supporting the engine and then pulling it forward a bit for a bit more space.

to remove the turbo with head on this is what i did on axle stands
- remove driver's side wheel
- lock with steering wheel (key out and turn the steering wheel until it locks), remove foot rest, undo 13mm nut at bottom of steering column
- undo steering rack & dog bone (16mm /13mm socket)
- undo sub frame (21mm socket)
- make sure you undo the little power steering bracket on the PAX side of the sub frame (10mm socket)
- swing the sub frame down and out the way (you need to undo all this because there is no way in hell you will be able to put the oil drain back on WITH the sub frame installed

*soak the 3 DP nuts with WD40/penetrating oil*

- now you can tackle taking off airbox, TIP, charge pipe, heat shielding on the firewall, turbo to charge pipe rubber elbow, remove the lambda sensor

*you wanna soak the 3 E14 torx (manifold to turbo bolts) with a 1:1 mix of acetone and auto transmission fluid or a penetrating oil & drain your coolant* (maybe do these past two steps first if your bolts are heaps rusted?)

- i like to tackle the 3 DP bolts as so -
3/8" ratchet, 17mm deep well, extension (experiment with/without the extension)
- you can undo the top two bolts this way - mostly by feel to get the socket on and then push.... really hard! movement is minimal so be patient while you click the ratchet like 2-3 clicks
- the one closest to the head - you wanna reach up through the wheel arch and "swing" the deep well 17mm + universal joint onto the stud then onto the bolt. you'll be able to crack it loose this way - again bit by bit
- get a whole bunch of extensions to get to the turbo support bracket bolt - just crack it loose for now, don't undo it fully

- moving onto the 3 E14's -
- get your socket on there and give them a shock
- crack loose with a breaker
- i would fully undo the one closest to the head, then the one to the left, then finally the one closest to the firewall (this ensures if the inserts wanna back out you can get it back in easily)
- you should be able to push the turbo down a bit... if not
- undo the under turbo support bracket fully, there is also another annoying little 5mm allen bolt BEHIND the coolant/heater hoses that go through the firewall. This one is a beeyatch. I used a 5mm L allen

- it is recommended you undo the coolant line at the block and leave the other end on the turbo when you fully remove the turbo
- watch you don't kink the hard oil drain line
- now the turbo should move around heaps and give you access to -coolant and drain banjo bolts (8mm allen socket)
- oil drain bolts (5mm allen/socket)
- undo the rest of the banjo's and you can lift the turbo from the TIP area

hopefully that gives you lots of room to get the manifold off...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rainbird
no they are right hand here.... so yours is left hand @SamHendry ?


i think most of the info should be the same... just the brake master cylinder and maybe hoses will be different but they aren't in the way on the RHD cars....
 
yeah I just looked through your thread and saw you all drive on the right side of the road too.

I never knew.
 
  • Like
Reactions: IPG
IanPG said:
no they are right hand here.... so yours is left hand @SamHendry ?


i think most of the info should be the same... just the brake master cylinder and maybe hoses will be different but they aren't in the way on the RHD cars....
Click to expand...
Cheers Ian some decent info there. Removing the engine mount is good idea. More space the better. I'll crack on with it this w.e! No doubt there will be a cry for help at some point haha
 
  • Like
Reactions: IPG
What size of manifold and exhaust is standard on a 2001 s3? What is best manifold and exhaust to upgrade to? Is 3" the best? Any links would b good.
 
hydro s3 said:
What size of manifold and exhaust is standard on a 2001 s3? What is best manifold and exhaust to upgrade to? Is 3" the best? Any links would b good.
Click to expand...

the size is restrictive if modifying for more go

best mani and downpipe really depends on how far you are willing to go... stage 2? hybrid? t25? t3? etc...
 
hydro s3 said:
What size of manifold and exhaust is standard on a 2001 s3? What is best manifold and exhaust to upgrade to? Is 3" the best? Any links would b good.
Click to expand...
Standard exhaust is 2.5inch.
Bigger the better on a turbo car so 3inch is the best and easiest option.

Not sure what you mean by size of the manifold. The oem ko4 and manifold turbine inlet is a fixed size. With aftermarket manifolds they can be made any size as is physically possible by use of a carbide bur and dremel. Again, bigger is always better
 
  • Like
Reactions: IPG
IanPG said:
the size is restrictive if modifying for more go

best mani and downpipe really depends on how far you are willing to go... stage 2? hybrid? t25? t3? etc...
Click to expand...
I was thinking of going 3" manifold and exhaust with a sports cat. If i could find information or links for bigger turbo or a hybrid then i would look in2 getting like that.
 
superkarl said:
Standard exhaust is 2.5inch.
Bigger the better on a turbo car so 3inch is the best and easiest option.

Not sure what you mean by size of the manifold. The oem ko4 and manifold turbine inlet is a fixed size. With aftermarket manifolds they can be made any size as is physically possible by use of a carbide bur and dremel. Again, bigger is always better
Click to expand...
I meant by size of manifold standard or 3"
 
hydro s3 said:
I was thinking of going 3" manifold and exhaust with a sports cat. If i could find information or links for bigger turbo or a hybrid then i would look in2 getting like that.
Click to expand...

I suspect you need to do a little more research dude..

There are several threads regarding hybrid setups and a few with big turbos (including my own)...

Be prepared to spend a lot of money

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
I suspect you need to do a little more research dude..

There are several threads regarding hybrid setups and a few with big turbos (including my own)...

Be prepared to spend a lot of money

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
O i know i need to do more research but thats y im on here look help aswell and asking questions. Does the amk run a k04 turbo as a few garages have said amk run k03 and k04 is a bam.
 
hydro s3 said:
O i know i need to do more research but thats y im on here look help aswell and asking questions. Does the amk run a k04 turbo as a few garages have said amk run k03 and k04 is a bam.
Click to expand...

All S3's use K04's

Don't ever go to those garages again!!!... clearly have no idea...

<tuffty/>
 
  • Like
Reactions: Stuart B, IPG and Tj 0785
Anyone know if you can remove the heatshield/bracket that the charge pipe bolts too with manifold in place?
 
audi upgrades
Removed both 13mm bolts either side. It fouls on the manifold/head. It's loose but just feels like it's snagging on mani.

Am I missing something? Is it a case of manipulating it out?
 
Ignore that question. The middle bolt holding the heatshield on is too long. Bolt fouls on the manifold. I wanted to cut it but space is so limited I can't find a way of doing that.? I'll post a pic when photobucket is back up,
 
Bolt I'm having a issue with. Not sure how I can remove this. Please if anyone has any advice please help.

 
I would like to put a disclaimer in here,try at your own peril...but could you cut the head off with an air hacksaw?

I would imagine you would need a pair of long nose thin mulgrips to hold the head,or thread,of the bolt to stop it spinning whilst cutting.Question is...how will you get another bolt in if you can't get that one out :blink:

Perhaps someone who knows what they're talking about could advise better :blush:
 
  • Like
Reactions: scotty_24 and SamHendry
audi upgrades
SamHendry said:
Bolt I'm having a issue with. Not sure how I can remove this. Please if anyone has any advice please help.

Click to expand...

So do you go to unscrew it and then the head hits the manifold with no where to go??
 
From memory its remove manifold or attempt with a hacksaw blade or something like this...

Amazon product

Amazon product

EDIT: keeps trying to convert them to silly amazon media links so I can't see them with my ad blocker :(

<tuffty/>
 
Last edited:
who wants a mini hacksaw? LOL
Screen Shot 2016 10 28 at 072658


*back on topic* that's a bit of a pain that JUST to remove a bracket the manifold needs to come off!!!
 
Even with the standard manifold I am pretty sure I couldn't remove the heat shield as it follows the angle of the head. and has a right angle connector near the damper. Why are you trying to remove the heat shield. ?
 
Fitting my chinafold soon.

When I fitted the relentless I had to chop bits out of the heatshield / bracket thing we're talking about.

Does it just simply not fit with a chinafold?
 
scotty_24 said:
Fitting my chinafold soon.

When I fitted the relentless I had to chop bits out of the heatshield / bracket thing we're talking about.

Does it just simply not fit with a chinafold?
Click to expand...
it fits. bolts too long as std and is STILL too long for chinafold
 
tcg said:
I would like to put a disclaimer in here,try at your own peril...but could you cut the head off with an air hacksaw?

I would imagine you would need a pair of long nose thin mulgrips to hold the head,or thread,of the bolt to stop it spinning whilst cutting.Question is...how will you get another bolt in if you can't get that one out :blink:

Perhaps someone who knows what they're talking about could advise better :blush:
Click to expand...
Great idea but I would probably use it to chop the car up instead!

IanPG said:
So do you go to unscrew it and then the head hits the manifold with no where to go??
Click to expand...
Yes the bolt is much longer than it needs to be!

Stuart B said:
Even with the standard manifold I am pretty sure I couldn't remove the heat shield as it follows the angle of the head. and has a right angle connector near the damper. Why are you trying to remove the heat shield. ?
Click to expand...

To give me better access to the manifold nuts From the top. I'm assuming it does?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

JonnyDerv
B5 manifold gen2?
Replies
1
Views
579
badger5
badger5
IrishDave
  • Locked
B5 Exhaust Manifold. Post your results.
Replies
36
Views
2K
Gops
Gops
russwuss
LCR 1.8T with OEM K04 & B5 V2 Manifold 325bhp?
Replies
101
Views
11K
beachbuggy
beachbuggy
jay1601
manifold ?
Replies
14
Views
1K
Sandip
Sandip
danotto
manifold
Replies
5
Views
925
ChriS3
C
Top
Back