2.0 TFSI error codes

vala

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Plugged my car into VCDS the other day as the EML light came on and performance was greatly reduced.

I got the following error codes:


3 Faults Found:
008801 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
P2261 - 008 - Mechanical Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 183947 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 10:46:33

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2108 /min
Load: 18.0 %
Speed: 86.0 km/h
Temperature: 85.0°C
Temperature: 16.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.224 V

000010 - Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake)
P000A - 008 - Slow Response - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 184162 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 07:50:15

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1992 /min
Load: 11.0 %
Speed: 81.0 km/h
Temperature: 50.0°C
Temperature: 9.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.224 V

000022 - Bank 1: CMP Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0016 - 008 - Incorrect Correlation - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 4
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 184169 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 18:20:04

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1100 /min
Load: 19.2 %
Speed: 44.0 km/h
Temperature: 35.0°C
Temperature: 12.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.224 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

Had a search on here as well as google and saw threads with regards to split in the n249 so bought a replacement one.Changed this yesterday and noticed my old 'C' version wasn't actually split or damaged (from what I could see), however I continued to replace it with the revision 'G' version I got from TPS.
Ran VCDS again hoping it would clear P2261 error code, but no joy its still there,
I've yet to move onto trying to fix the other 2 codes as I'm a bit confused about them. When I google or use RossTech's to check up on the error codes it all leads to timing issues with the cam.
Now back in December last year I replaced the camshaft/cam follower/timing chain/tensioner as I had a 'A' revision camshaft that had a heavily worn lobe which wore through the existing cam follower. This was replaced with the latest revision '2 piece' camshaft and as I had access and needed to remove the other components I replaced these as well.
Off the top of my head I would estimate I'v covered at least 5-6k since this work was completed and the car has been as good as gold.
My car starts,sounds and drives as per normal albeit the severly reduced power. This is what leads me to believe this error code is not due to the timing chain or tensioner as surely I would have some obvious noises from that area,or even the car would not start/would run rough.

Could anyone lend any suggestions as to what may be the cause?

Thanks all
 
audismart - thanks for the reply.
I have changed the N249 valve since the error code and MIL light have come on and still it stays. The original N249 valve (revision C), looked on good condition tbh with no splits in the diaphragm but I still replaced it with the revision G version I bought.
Today I replaced the camshaft sensor, did a scan after and still the codes remain.

As mentioned the car had the timing chain and tensioner replaced last Dec along with the the intake camshaft and has been running fine since Monday. Then al of a sudden up pops this error code and the MIL light and it's definitely in a limp mode.
 
I wonder if you have cam chain jump, What engine code is your car? Is it a TFSI or TSI?
If it a TFSI then maybe your cam follower has a hole in it or if you car is TSI then cam chain jump is a big problem with 2008/2010 my cars.
 
You know sometimes I should read a thred before I answer it, lol, sorry all has been mentioned.
 
audismart - codes have been cleared but still reappear.
Engine is a TFSI. Cam follower was checked late last year and a hole was found. Upon more investigation it became clear I also had a revision 'a' one piece intake camshaft. This was all then changed in December last year with a 2 piece camshaft, new chain and tensioner etc.
 
I think there is a difference between the N249 and N205 valve, might be worth investigating, and the N249 isn't the diverter valve, its a solenoid valve that is attached to the turbo that the diverter valve bolts to. It difficult to get to apparently.
 
Thought'd I better update this thread.
I had the car looked at and nothing appeared untoward and everything was correct. Garage did a reset of the codes and MIL light was gone and car was back to being fine.
This is until this morning when I started the car and the MIL light has returned.
I'm pretty certain it isn't anything mechanical however one thought has crossed my mind. This year I've done probably double my normal annual amount of miles and at present since it's last yearly service maybe 10-12k has passed.
Could it just be that the oil is up for renewal?
It's serviced once a year but normally my annual mileage is circa 6-7k however this year it's exceeded that. Never had this light or these codes appear before and this is the only difference I can think of that's occurred.
 
Strangely, I have seen it said that oil pressure/circulation/sludge issues can trigger the ECU to throw this "Incorrect Correlation" which is a general "something isn't quite right with a mechanical issue affecting timing" code. Give it a good oil change and see what happens.
 
Well today I did the car's yearly full service. Came to changing the filter and looks like the old filter has collapsed on itself. As I removed it from the housing out came the plastic cylinder that it rests over as well. I had to pry the old filter off this plastic cylinder and in doing so the filter just cracked and split!!!
This has newer happened before and I'm assuming because the car had much less miles in between the service.
As mentioned this year I've done an unusual amount of miles compared to my norm.
Touch wood this is the cause of the MIL light coming on and the correlation error code cropping up.
 
Usually if the filter collapses it is due to it being blocked (not changed for ages or blocked for some other reason) or the filter was faulty. I would just put it "on watch" and perhaps sneak in an extra change after 6 months to see what the new one looks like. If you suspect the engine might have a bit of internal sludge and varnish I have found that Mobil 1 0w-40 is an excellent "problem solver" for such issues e.g. sticking hydraulic valve lifters in BMWs etc. It seems to creep into (and clean) areas that other oils miss. In fact it does so much "creeping" that Mobil found it necessary to put a statement on their website that they have not found it to weep through some gaskets and seals as some people have claimed. :highly amused:
 

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