8P Quattro-specific questions

nick_sixx · Oct 24, 2016

Hi guys,

First post here! I am hoping to get into an A3 quattro for my next car, but am having difficulty clarifying a few things (have done numerous searches on here, VW Watercooled, Audizine, VW Vortex etc).

1) I will want to lower the car by 30-50mm. Can I use the stock shocks with springs of this height? I 100% understand that it's best to do springs+shocks all at once, but depending on how much I end up paying for the car this probably wont be in the budget for a year or so. Id rather do the springs now, and then do the shocks if/when they need replacing

2) Can I use springs designed for an S3 or Golf R on an 8P A3 quattro? (my understanding is that the FWD sportback uses different rear springs to the AWD version which rules them out)

3) Is a downpipe + hi-flow cat + panel filter enough for a stage 2 APR? Are there any other sub-1000 dollar reflash options (I'm in Australia)? I have had success in the past with Bluefin (Superchips) and EDS for a MK5 Golf and Astra VXR respectively.

4) Will a downpipe for a FWD A3 fit? (i.e. the different diff doesn't impede the downpipe)?

5) If I can find a model with sunroof, can this be used with roof racks? Looking for a model with sunroof+roof rails, but it'd be handy to know if the sunroof can actually be opened.

6) Would ideally like to take the car for a pretty comprehensive service after purchasing. What are some common problems that I should look to be addressed? Preliminary research says that intake buildup is notoriously bad on the EA113s?

7) Will a headunit designed as a direct replacement for a MK5/MK6 Golf (and Polo/Amarok/Jetta etc) fit into an 8P (both with the physical cavity and CANBUS)? They seem to be significantly cheaper than buying either an A3-specific unit, or an Audi adapter+fascia kit+head unit

Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I've been able to find answers to the rest of my queries but these are the final loose ends that I want to tie up before purchasing.

Thanks!

prt57 · Oct 24, 2016

Q3. Depending on your cash situation, a stage 1+ APR may be better than a stage 2. 1+ includes a high pressure fuel pump rather than the downpipe and you have shed loads of torque. Add the downpipe later for stage 2+. I went to APR 1+ after having a bluefin with the APR making the car much quicker.
The standard airbox is restrictive and my car did not make the advertised APR 1+ BHP figures as it could not suck enough air in even though I had a performance panel filter. I changed to a CAI and all fine now.
Q4. Just comparing APR downpipes, there is a different one for fwd and 4wd

nick_sixx · Oct 25, 2016

prt57 said:
Q3. Depending on your cash situation, a stage 1+ APR may be better than a stage 2. 1+ includes a high pressure fuel pump rather than the downpipe and you have shed loads of torque. Add the downpipe later for stage 2+. I went to APR 1+ after having a bluefin with the APR making the car much quicker.
The standard airbox is restrictive and my car did not make the advertised APR 1+ BHP figures as it could not suck enough air in even though I had a performance panel filter. I changed to a CAI and all fine now.
Q4. Just comparing APR downpipes, there is a different one for fwd and 4wd

Are there intakes that are generally preferred on this forum? From what I can see, most of them are about the exact same. Would probably just DIY one using a 90 degree elbow and heat-shielded pod of my choosing after seeing the $300+ options out there,

prt57 · Oct 25, 2016

At the moment the most popular intake is made by Revo. Apparently, it produces the highest air flow figures.
I started out with a Neuspeed P Flo which did OK. A member on here had his S3 mapped at a highly respected tuner here in the U.K. He was running the same intake and the tuner said that he should be able to achieve at least 10 more BHP with the Revo.
The VWR and ITG intakes flow well but they are more expensive. Here is my Revo but I am using a cotton gauze "Green" filter rather than the Revo foam supplied in the kit.

Boydie · Oct 25, 2016

nick_sixx said:
1) I will want to lower the car by 30-50mm. Can I use the stock shocks with springs of this height? I 100% understand that it's best to do springs+shocks all at once, but depending on how much I end up paying for the car this probably wont be in the budget for a year or so. Id rather do the springs now, and then do the shocks if/when they need replacing

You can use the stock shocks but as you said, they may fail over time - make sure though you get the correct offset wheel as going as low as 50mm may cause rubbing - at the rear arch there is a screw at the 2 o'clock position which can catch. Easily removed but just be mindful of the offset

I had 19" et50 BBS CH on my S3 lowered 25mm H&R springs and I thought it was perfect offset and height wise

nick_sixx said:
2) Can I use springs designed for an S3 or Golf R on an 8P A3 quattro? (my understanding is that the FWD sportback uses different rear springs to the AWD version which rules them out)

I would stick with known brands like H&R or Eibach (H&R preferred personally) - go with the right part number to make sure.

nick_sixx said:
3) Is a downpipe + hi-flow cat + panel filter enough for a stage 2 APR? Are there any other sub-1000 dollar reflash options (I'm in Australia)? I have had success in the past with Bluefin (Superchips) and EDS for a MK5 Golf and Astra VXR respectively.

A remap on its own will see 30-40bhp increase, adding a decent filter (Revo) will allow more air flow of up to 15bhp potentially due to the restrictive system that is already in place.

Personally speaking, with my S3, Stage 2 was a waste of time due to misfires. I had a Milltek Turbo back exhaust installed with intake. Once the misfires started I installed an Autotech HPFP and RS4 fuel valve regulator. Once they were in, it got mapped 2+ and no issues for the rest of my ownership.

I installed the Revo throttle pipe, Forge DV and Revo FMIC as well extra.

nick_sixx said:
4) Will a downpipe for a FWD A3 fit? (i.e. the different diff doesn't impede the downpipe)?

TBH I am not sure - the FWD obviously doesn't have a drive shaft going down the middle of the car. I would assume it wouldn't but just check part numbers to be sure.

nick_sixx said:
5) If I can find a model with sunroof, can this be used with roof racks? Looking for a model with sunroof+roof rails, but it'd be handy to know if the sunroof can actually be opened.

Never had an A3 with sunroof so cannot really comment but I would safely say yes - I am sure Audi would have reviewed this at the design stage. Personally though I do not like sunroofs, they disrupt the lines and colour of the car (unless Black of course).

nick_sixx said:
6) Would ideally like to take the car for a pretty comprehensive service after purchasing. What are some common problems that I should look to be addressed? Preliminary research says that intake buildup is notoriously bad on the EA113s?

Just general servicing, what engine?

Check the belts have been done (if needed), coolant and water pumps. Spark plugs, rear fuel filter, air and pollen filters - not much off the norm!

nick_sixx said:
7) Will a headunit designed as a direct replacement for a MK5/MK6 Golf (and Polo/Amarok/Jetta etc) fit into an 8P (both with the physical cavity and CANBUS)? They seem to be significantly cheaper than buying either an A3-specific unit, or an Audi adapter+fascia kit+head unit

As far as I know they will not fit - is your car single or double DIN? The most popular upgrade is the RNSE unit but with that you have to install a separate bluetooth module and wiring loom for phone prep - there are plenty of aftermarket units available with this all built in and better bluetooth/music control options but if you want the OEM look then I would go for the RNSE

nick_sixx · Oct 25, 2016

Boydie said:
You can use the stock shocks but as you said, they may fail over time - make sure though you get the correct offset wheel as going as low as 50mm may cause rubbing - at the rear arch there is a screw at the 2 o'clock position which can catch. Easily removed but just be mindful of the offset

I had 19" et50 BBS CH on my S3 lowered 25mm H&R springs and I thought it was perfect offset and height wise

View attachment 108117

I would stick with known brands like H&R or Eibach (H&R preferred personally) - go with the right part number to make sure.

A remap on its own will see 30-40bhp increase, adding a decent filter (Revo) will allow more air flow of up to 15bhp potentially due to the restrictive system that is already in place.

Personally speaking, with my S3, Stage 2 was a waste of time due to misfires. I had a Milltek Turbo back exhaust installed with intake. Once the misfires started I installed an Autotech HPFP and RS4 fuel valve regulator. Once they were in, it got mapped 2+ and no issues for the rest of my ownership.

I installed the Revo throttle pipe, Forge DV and Revo FMIC as well extra.

View attachment 108119

TBH I am not sure - the FWD obviously doesn't have a drive shaft going down the middle of the car. I would assume it wouldn't but just check part numbers to be sure.

Never had an A3 with sunroof so cannot really comment but I would safely say yes - I am sure Audi would have reviewed this at the design stage. Personally though I do not like sunroofs, they disrupt the lines and colour of the car (unless Black of course).

Just general servicing, what engine?

Check the belts have been done (if needed), coolant and water pumps. Spark plugs, rear fuel filter, air and pollen filters - not much off the norm!

As far as I know they will not fit - is your car single or double DIN? The most popular upgrade is the RNSE unit but with that you have to install a separate bluetooth module and wiring loom for phone prep - there are plenty of aftermarket units available with this all built in and better bluetooth/music control options but if you want the OEM look then I would go for the RNSE

Thank you so so much for the comprehensive info! Really appreciate it!

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SootySport · Oct 25, 2016

Q5. If you use and Audi roof rack the sunroof will still be useable. Can't comment on non Audi racks, though you should be able to measure the required clearance required before you buy.

nick_sixx · Oct 27, 2016

prt57 said:
Q3. Depending on your cash situation, a stage 1+ APR may be better than a stage 2. 1+ includes a high pressure fuel pump rather than the downpipe and you have shed loads of torque. Add the downpipe later for stage 2+. I went to APR 1+ after having a bluefin with the APR making the car much quicker.
The standard airbox is restrictive and my car did not make the advertised APR 1+ BHP figures as it could not suck enough air in even though I had a performance panel filter. I changed to a CAI and all fine now.
Q4. Just comparing APR downpipes, there is a different one for fwd and 4wd

What about downpipes for an S3 - will this fit an A3 quattro?

nick_sixx · Oct 27, 2016

Also, what are the differences power-wise between an airbox replacement CAI (Carbonio or Pipercross Venom) vs a full intake replacement CAI? Seems like it's a matter of hundreds of dollars between them (especially looking at this fake carbonio unit: http://raceland.com/cold-air-intakes/audi-a3-cold-air-intake.html)

Boydie · Oct 27, 2016

Go full intake for sure

The OEM intake is very restrictive and installing a full intake system like Revo/Evoms/ITG etc... will guarantee you power gains, like up to 15bhp! (intake depending)

nick_sixx · Nov 20, 2016

Thanks everyone for your help! Picked up this beauty 2 weeks ago.

Got H&R springs, Ramair (brand) intake, and Connects2 Bluetooth adapter installed already. Hi flow cat + tune to come, and then I think it will be at a stage where I am happy! (For now).

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dg-1984 · Nov 22, 2016

You may need a clutch if tuning, not sure if is the same on the A3 but my S3 slipped soon as I went stage 1, now have sachs race clutch fitted and about £1200 worse off now..

nick_sixx · Nov 23, 2016

dg-1984 said:
You may need a clutch if tuning, not sure if is the same on the A3 but my S3 slipped soon as I went stage 1, now have sachs race clutch fitted and about £1200 worse off now..

I've heard that the FSI clutches can be ok - the TSI ones are the ones to look out for?

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aqibi2000 · Nov 24, 2016

If they share the same part number then the difference is that abuse they gonna through. ( Turbo has more torque)

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