Gonzo's S3

Cheers, interesting to watch a build which is basically where im heading at the moment. Will be ordering the pipeworx downpipe and decat once i've tidyed up my engine bay. Toying with the idea of the wagner intercooler just for how oem it looks.

Do you know how much better the relentless manifold flows compared to standard?
 
rushton said:
Cheers, interesting to watch a build which is basically where im heading at the moment. Will be ordering the pipeworx downpipe and decat once i've tidyed up my engine bay. Toying with the idea of the wagner intercooler just for how oem it looks.

Do you know how much better the relentless manifold flows compared to standard?
Click to expand...

Sounds good mate.

When I went to rtech even with all my mods that were on it they told me without the relentless manifold I would be getting around 280bhp. With the relentless he reckons on the day IF I had my rods done (which I will be next month) I would on made 310bhp - 320lbft. We'll see when I get the map tweaked after the engine work. Had to cap at 300-300 because of the rods.

So yeah big difference, the manifold is extremely restrictive. That being said relentless do have reliability issues. Better off with badger5's gen 2 china fold if you can get hold of one as they're meant to be a lot more reliable.
 
stock manifold is maxed out around 280 as said.

Relentless manifold, I have such a hatred for it. Mine was total *****, it cracked on pretty much every weld, it never flowed well and when it was removed, the bore on the entry flange was no bigger than the standard one.

Some don't have flow issues and seem okay reliability wise, others have cracked spectacularly like mine did and never flow well.

I've attached a few pictures of mine, which was 6 months old.

Chinese quality control I guess.
 

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audi upgrades
JonnyDerv said:
stock manifold is maxed out around 280 as said.

Relentless manifold, I have such a hatred for it. Mine was total *****, it cracked on pretty much every weld, it never flowed well and when it was removed, the bore on the entry flange was no bigger than the standard one.

Some don't have flow issues and seem okay reliability wise, others have cracked spectacularly like mine did and never flow well.

I've attached a few pictures of mine, which was 6 months old.

Chinese quality control I guess.
Click to expand...

I see what you mean, mine flowed well on the dyno but has blowed slightly ever since it was on (I think the gasket is the problem) I have stiffened up engine mounts and dogbone etc to help movement to a minimum but won't know until it's off.

I've had mine for a good 5000 miles and it's still going ok..... For now lol

When I bought it the b5 china folds were for sale too which is the bigger bummer, don't know why I got relentless.
 
Gaskets are a pain in the **** too, tried gasketless and ended up having to get a copper FSU one. Couldn't get hold of a B5 manifold, custom one was £2000!! No way I was putting a v4 back on so thought **** it and went big turbo
 
so many posts on here and FB lately on the relentless manifolds not turning out as what they're cracked to be! (see what i did there?) lol

defo going to go the DIY china fold option...
 
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Have had an ongoing problem of iratic idle and also having to push the brake pedal very hard when braking to get any real force. (Lcr brembos - ferrodo ds2500 - ebc discs) pads and discs have done 300 miles now

Eurocar parts had a 25% sale on so decided to get a new Bosch MAF. It didn't help but was still original so worth doing.

Went out for a spin and tried giving my brakes a really good bed in stopping hard from 70 over and over.

It then decided not to boost over 6psi which I'm guessing is a kind of limp mode. Came home plugged it in and got fault code

Fuel trim bank 1 (add): system too lean p1136

I have checked all vacuum hoses under manifold etc no luck.

I've heard people saying if the brake servo booster hose is cracked this could lead to rough idle and hard brake pedal and a lot of force needed.

So I ripped it out and going to replace it, cannot see anything wrong straight away but going to try this now





 
mine was cracked where it joins to the check valve - on both sides
 
Replaced all the brake servo pipework after the hefty price for it. Brakes are now better than before but idles still rough. I don't want to say it but it maybe the relentless manifold is cracking. Will find out next week once the engine work starts.

As its lifetime warranty hopefully can get a replacement but at the minute not many more options.
 
Dropped the car off at the garage for the engine / gearbox rebuild. The guy was recommended to me by a VERY fussy friend of mine who's rebuilding his mk2 supra. Looking forward to getting it back.

If there is a manifold leak will get a replacement under warranty while its in the shop.

Replacing timing chain while its there as its a better time than any.

Exciting stuff.
 
scotty_24 said:
Whats making you think the mani is cracked?
Click to expand...

Fuel bank trim 1 too lean fault occasionally, lumpy idle, checked everything else I can think of

Coolant sensor, MAF, brake servo pipes, vacuum hoses all replaced
 
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Bit of an update: the rebuild will commence tomorrow so not long now until she'll be back.

Few pictures of the work so including "hopefully" the cause of the slight blow























 
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Had an update yesterday: Bearing shells turned up from TPS rusty, so needed to get some replacements. Also new oil pump will be going on and dual mass flywheel will be needed. Other things that was waiting for are all here and almost ready to put back in. Has been a while but I think definitely worth it.

















 
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Some more pictures of the rebuild. Turns out the garage who fitted my exhaust and turbo decided to scrimp on brackets and my engine builder spent hours straightening/refitting oil feed and turbo brackets that's were just left or bent to get to fit. A Jubilee hose was there to pull downpipe away from heat shield and just generally the workmanship was not up to scratch.

I would never have known this if I didn't do the rebuild so glad it's taking time and done properly then I can just forget about it. Very happy with the work the mechanic has done and has kept me informed along the way.







 
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some really aweomse photos there! hope you guys fixed the problem!!!
 
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I thought baptism of fire was the best way to do it, Rev it high but with low boost ands few oil changes after a couple hundred miles with different grades of oil not that I've ever had to do it like
 
I've also read drive it like you stole it.

Or drive it how it will be used when at the limit... = drive it like you stole it. Lol
 
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You don't need to rev the engine high but you should load it up with a bit of boost the force the rings into the bores to wear them in...

Drop the first lot of mineral oil after the first 50-100 miles as this is when the most wear typically occurs... then continue to run mineral for a further 200-500 miles and drop again... your choice if you wish to run mineral for another 500 miles...

<tuffty/>
 
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Good to be back in the Audi and gives me a break from the Fabia anyway.

 
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Engine threw a code today, fuel trim system too lean.

Looks like I've still got the same issue as before, lumpy idle is the main annoying problem with it.

As ive changed the coolant sensor, MAF, brake servo hoses, certain I have no vacuum leaks I tried the pre cat lambda probe.

The one on the downpipe



Old v new



Started her up after cutting my hand to bits and guess what.... No different.

I will find the culprit but fed up at throwing money at parts I probably don't need, especially after the rebuild!! I have vcds lite and need advise if there is any logs I can do to see whether it is the fuel pump, for, coils or anything else?

Any advice would be great.
 
Gonzokew said:
Engine threw a code today, fuel trim system too lean.

Looks like I've still got the same issue as before, lumpy idle is the main annoying problem with it.

As ive changed the coolant sensor, MAF, brake servo hoses, certain I have no vacuum leaks I tried the pre cat lambda probe.

The one on the downpipe



Old v new



Started her up after cutting my hand to bits and guess what.... No different.

I will find the culprit but fed up at throwing money at parts I probably don't need, especially after the rebuild!! I have vcds lite and need advise if there is any logs I can do to see whether it is the fuel pump, for, coils or anything else?

Any advice would be great.
Click to expand...
Checked Injector seals?

Sent from my F5121 using Tapatalk
 
aha

the other two codes are misfire codes
16685 points to cylinder one. try new spark plugs or checking the gaps
 
IanPG said:
aha

the other two codes are misfire codes
16685 points to cylinder one. try new spark plugs or checking the gaps
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's why I've swapped the coils to see if cylinder 4 is the culprit when the code comes back. Weirdly the engine light only comes back after 150 miles each time it's reset. If not then plugs next :)

Thanks for the help.

On a positive note the pro 4 manifold wasn't cracked and it's been on about a year now. Hopefully the stiffer dog bone and engine mounts will stop the stress through it
 
Good news, swapped over the fpr and noticed something which definitely didn't help with things when it was out.

%5BURL=http://s479.photobucket.com/user/ke...7-77A6-4121-9F1B-1E6E16DD6419.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Old v new

%5BURL=http://s479.photobucket.com/user/kewgre13/media/Audi/E79C0F61-04AA-432D-9AE9-74F3C11FECA9.jpg.html][/URL]

Not sure what it is that's on the regulator but the idle is no longer bouncing like mad. Still slightly ( I mean slightly ) moving on idle but nothing compared to before. Feels like it's driving better too.

Going back to my engine builder in a few more weeks for oil change and a general look over but hopefully all this time it was due to the fuel pressure regulator being blocked.
 
Gonzokew said:
Good news, swapped over the fpr and noticed something which definitely didn't help with things when it was out.

%5BURL=http://s479.photobucket.com/user/ke...7-77A6-4121-9F1B-1E6E16DD6419.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Old v new

%5BURL=http://s479.photobucket.com/user/kewgre13/media/Audi/E79C0F61-04AA-432D-9AE9-74F3C11FECA9.jpg.html][/URL]

Not sure what it is that's on the regulator but the idle is no longer bouncing like mad. Still slightly ( I mean slightly ) moving on idle but nothing compared to before. Feels like it's driving better too.

Going back to my engine builder in a few more weeks for oil change and a general look over but hopefully all this time it was due to the fuel pressure regulator being blocked.
Click to expand...
Them black strands on the FPR could be the internal side of the fuel hoses starting to perish. Worth checking Hoses.

Sent from my F5121 using Tapatalk
 
Your symtoms were a bit like mine, and I dreamt about this thread last night. Could it be heat somehow from running too lean? Or back firing - somehow?
 
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