Audi S3 Running in..

y3sjy

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Hi Guys,

Apologises if this has been discussed before - My Dealer says i have to run the car in for 1000 miles - Is this true? If so what is classed as running in?

Picking the car up tomorrow now and itching to use my heavy right foot.... seems now ill have to wait a little longer :-(
 
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Read the manual - it should be covered in that - rather than trusting a dealer.

(Apologies any dealers on here but West London Audi told me the S3 was a V6 a couple of months ago...).

Pretty sure any issues will be covered by warranty at any rate.
 
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Hi Guys,

Apologises if this has been discussed before - My Dealer says i have to run the car in for 1000 miles - Is this true? If so what is classed as running in?

Picking the car up tomorrow now and itching to use my heavy right foot.... seems now ill have to wait a little longer :-(

Just going to offer my opinion (unusual I know), I picked my S3 up 1.75 months ago, I took it easy for the most part (not going over 4000 RPM) however because I couldn't resist it I did give it the boot (on the day i picked it up non the less), more than once a journey, then calmed down again. Then from 600 miles I just drove it "normally", which is sensible with occasional (and where appropriate) bouts of hard acceleration.

Suffered no complaints from the car (now at just shy of 2000 miles), seems to be making good power as far as i can tell, it has used hardly any oil, and the fuel economy doesn't seem to of suffered.

Watch out for the redline though, it comes up faster than you think, and instead of bouncing the engine doesn't rev anymore.

<edit>

If your concerned, I'd probably go with what the manual states (which i didn't read), after being told by the Audi BDM to "drive it aggressively" as they "dont need running in", which i duly rolled my eyes at, i hasten to add.

My car is a Business lease, so I'll be getting another one in just shy of two years, but still I dont abuse it (or ever have), and pretty much treat it like it was my own.
 
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Hi Guys,

Apologises if this has been discussed before - My Dealer says i have to run the car in for 1000 miles - Is this true? If so what is classed as running in?

Picking the car up tomorrow now and itching to use my heavy right foot.... seems now ill have to wait a little longer :-(

make sure to get it nice and warm so oil temp is up to 90deg and then it wont hurt to give it the odd boot.

I kept mine below 4k rpm for the first 500 mile and then just drove it like normal.
 
make sure to get it nice and warm so oil temp is up to 90deg and then it wont hurt to give it the odd boot.

I kept mine below 4k rpm for the first 500 mile and then just drove it like normal.

This ^^^ the oil temp can be found under the lap timer bizarrely, on the center display.
 
General rule is to keep below 4000rpm for first 1000 miles, however, it is more important not to allow the engine to labour in a high gear at low revs, which is very easy to do with the auto box.....e.g.: inclines etc. Even after running in, never rag it until the oil temp has reached 80 degrees.

And never ever feed your S3 after midnight!!!
 
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General rule is to keep below 4000rpm for first 1000 miles, however, it is more important not to allow the engine to labour in a high gear at low revs, which is very easy to do with the auto box.....e.g.: inclines etc. Even after running in, never rag it until the oil temp has reached 80 degrees.

And never ever feed your S3 after midnight!!!
Lol
 
There are always two schools of thought regarding running in, regardless of car or manufacturer. Those that say take it gentle, and those who say drive it hard/normally.

I've tried both, my A4 I drove gently for 1000 miles but it still didn't loosen up for another few k of normal driving after that.

Back in 2003 I bought a Saxo VTR, and drove that like I stole it from day 1 (hey, I was 18 with a brand new sporty hatch, what do you expect!), I had that dyno'd about 1 year in, and it made more power than my mates did (similar age and mileage), it was also notably faster than his on the road.

Make your own mind up, and at the end of the day it's your money/car, but personally I believe there is some truth to the "drive it hard to bed the rings in" approach.
 
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@paradigital loved my VTR. Ragged mine as soon as I got it. Missed the wee digital immobiliser on the dash when I sold it.
Personally, I've never taken it easy when I've bought a car. Always drove it as normal from day one.
 
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The golden rule is not to give a car full boar acceleration, high revs etc until its warmed through. As others have suggested 80+ degrees as a minimum.

I agree with all the comments re engine running in. Both sides infact ( careful / flat out from day 1 ), some enginee like to be run in others it simply makes no difference.
The S3 I feel falls more into the second camp. Ofcourse there needs to be some mechanical sympathy but too say you cant reach 4k revs for the first 1k miles is crazy.

Another factor re running in is the gearbox. Especially if you have the Auto / DSG. In a similar fashion to the engine I would not advise to push it until warmed through, but once warmed up you can use and enjoy it as it should be.

Todays modern auto gearboxes learn how you like to drive and adapt accordingly. This is why some are smoother or quicker than others from the same model.

In BMW's you used to be able to reset the gearbox by stepping on the accelerator pedal for xx amount of seconds before starting the car. The gearbox would then go into " learn " mode to ascertain your driving style. I have no doubt the Audi DSG has a similar feature.

Enjoy your car, ...your way. Treat if with respect, warm it up and it will reward you.

Enjoy...
Jungle

Ps....

Saxo VTR .. I was lucky to have a VTS Saxo from new.. was a proper little pocket rocket at the time... ( quicker than a friends Pug 1.9 205 GTI ) and to think they were only 120bhp!...then the monster modders got hold of them and thieves ! ... then insurance went through the roof.. then I went into hot Coupes which were a 1/4 of the price to insure and double the power... go figure...aah takes me back.
 
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I work on the basis that the resources of the Audi R&D department probably know best, so do what the handbook says. Anecdotal evidence suggests driving it hard after warm up from day one leaves you with more power at the expense of longevity. So if you don't plan on keeping the car more than a couple of years it won't matter.

During the first few 100 miles remember you are also bedding in things like tyres, brakes and clutch.

We pick up our S3 on Friday and will be running it in by the book.


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I work on the basis that the resources of the Audi R&D department probably know best, so do what the handbook says. Anecdotal evidence suggests driving it hard after warm up from day one leaves you with more power at the expense of longevity. So if you don't plan on keeping the car more than a couple of years it won't matter.

During the first few 100 miles remember you are also bedding in things like tyres, brakes and clutch.

We pick up our S3 on Friday and will be running it in by the book.


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Great news..Looking forward to the pics..:friends:
 
My dealer said to drive it like it's intended to be driven from day one. But make sure the engine is warm (90+ degrees) first. Oh, and you dont need to go into any menus to see the oil temp any more. At least I dont as I have a permanent oil temp display but that might be part of the Virtual Cockpit...
 
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I picked mine up on 1st sept. I let it idle in the showroom until it was up to temp, pulled out and redlined it all the way home! Best way to run them in these days!
 
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Got not idea if it made any difference but....

Kept revs under 5000rpm for first 500 miles ( but I cheated a couple of times...:) )

And in general always try and run the engine for 60 seconds before pulling away and try not to boot it until oil temp is above 80C

But all I know for sure is that the car has got quicker and quicker. At 5-6k miles was quicker then new and now at 13000 miles it seems even quicker again.
 
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Dealers who say to drive like a lunatic know nothing about engineering! I had one dealer years ago that the engines are run in before they put them in the car. Possibly bench tested for a few seconds but that is it.

Run it in as suggested by the maker. An engine failure in the first few hundred miles may lead to warranty issues if red lined with a few miles on the clock.
 
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Related topic, though it has come up on this thread already.... It is a bad idea to let a modern engine warm up at idle revs, especially in cold weather. Ignite and drive immediately away is far more gentle to the engine.
 
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Quoting myself from another post, on another day, because today I'm feeling decidedly lazy

"Run in procedures are a pain in the backside. Everyone's got different opinions, and even the guys that design them have differing ideas about it than the guys who build them, maintain them, tune them, or prep them. The universal, agreed by all concerned, no questions, do-not-pass-Go-and-do-not-collect-£200, absolutely must avoid thing though. Is do not give it the beans until it's fully warmed through.

Avoiding constant speed and load seems to be a common theme too, not often mentioned as it's not easy to do on road cars, but its emphasised quite a bit in marine engines, which experience constant speed and load routinely.

Other than that, it's appears that anything else is fair game. I've a number of friends in the motor racing, motor journalism, and new car development games, and it seems the best engines are the ones that have been warmed through and then let off the lead straight away. Something to do with getting maximum combustion chamber pressure behind the piston rings early on and bedding them into the bores before all the honing has been worn smooth. They have a wide variety of high profile successes between them, especially in endurance and GT racing where long term reliability really counts, so I think I can trust their judgement. The jury remains out when it comes their judgement in women, fashion, and appropriate jokes for a best mans speech though.

Of course if your aim is to prevent damage, then you've already missed the boat on two counts;

One, these engines are built to quality levels and tolerances that were considered impossible to achieve even 15 years ago, so they no longer need the running in routine that older cars had to have. They're very very good already.

Two, by the time you get your hands on your pristine motor, it has been banzai'd from stone cold for an against the clock time trial on at least six occasions by a specialist nutcase who's task in life is to get your car and several hundred others from one point to another with the sort of speed and precision not seen since Russ Swift did the Montego ad for Austin back in the '80's.

It has been whipped off the production line to a waiting area, from a waiting area onto a train, from the train to a car park, from the car park onto a ship, where it would have been parked so close to its neighbour you could have clamped a Rizla between the wing mirrors. Then, when it got to the UK, some bloke from Grimsby blasted it off the ship to a car park, before loading it into a truck with similar speed and similar lack of mechanical sympathy a couple of days later.

If it was going to break through some latent engine build defect, chances are it would have done so before it got to the dealers."
 
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When the car is in "Transport Mode" the engine revs are limited to about 2.5K so probably safe enough until the dealer gets at it.
I took a car out for a test drive once which had just arrived at the dealers but they forgot to disable the transport mode, very exciting.

I just took it relatively easily, with a few blips, for the first 600 miles or so, the brakes were pretty poor for the first 100.
Now over 1200 and my MPG seems to have dropped considerably :racer:

Oil usage has been very minimal so far.
 
Transport mode will certainly help, but that early life partial thermal cycling won't exactly be beneficial either. In its first 10 or so starts nothing will achieve full working temperature. No they won't (can't) hit the redline from cold, but neither will they drive it gently, they've got a job to do.

It does rather place the onus back on Audi if it does go pop in the first few hundred miles though, so I wouldn't be worrying to much about their reaction as regards warranty. It'd be very hard for them to blame you when 8 or 9 of their various stunt drivers and dealer staff have all driven it before you have.
 
It may be 'urban myth' but I believe with BMW M cars they interrogate the car's engine management system in the event of an engine related warranty claim before the first service to see if it's been over revved.


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I've been for an interview at the Honda factory in Swindon and they have a test track there. Every car gets ragged around it by a team of test drivers the moment it rolls off the production line before the odometer is reset. Can't imagine it's much different at other manufacturers...
 
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I can. Anyone who's been to that plant, or even the Nissan plant in Sunderland will come away with a new understanding of the meaning of "quality" and "work ethic".

Despite being unspeakably boring, questionably styled, and attracting a distinctly older buyer, Hondas are extremely well engineered and thought out cars. I bought my Mother in law a 2012 Jazz, and it's been absolutely amazing. Despite its bottom of the family tree status, it's not suffered one issue in nearly four years. Compared with the fords that preceded it, this is phenomenal.

The power train is as good now as it was four years ago. Not even a single solitary rattle to belie the many miles she's put under it. If it weren't for the dirt you'd swear it was factory fresh. The Germans have it all their own way when it comes to being able to charge premium prices, but the Japanese are leagues ahead in actually engineering the oily bits underneath, and despite them underestimating the challenge of re-entering F1, Honda are top of the Bonsai tree. Who else can claim as much success in building vast numbers of reliable high revving engines, or is mad enough to develop a 32 valve 4 cylinder engine with double conrod oval pistons?
IMG 3951
 
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You pays your money (although a load on here will never own their car) and you have the choice.

I worked in various technical positions for a large international company for forty years that amongst other things designed, developed and made engines.

My two penneth is that you can take notice of the folk that spent millions developing an engine, the people that have a huge monetary interest in the long term reliability of their products as warranty can be huge.

Or you can disregard all that specialist technical knowledge and go the way of the pub expert. You may be lucky, you may not be lucky, engines are much more robust than they ever were.

Modern machining methods and greatly reduced tolerances mean running in is not as key as it used to be. But some engines are designed to go flat out from day one. Things like the engine in your mower or in industrial equipment or competition engines. The main feature of those engines is the honing pattern on the cylinder bores which will allow them to run at high idle when brand new.

Your car engine does not have the same honing pattern is intended to last longer.

Me? I've seen the work that goes into an engine, I'll follow the manufacturers instructions every time.
 
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I here the points stated of engines nowadays are way ahead from 15 years ago.
However, I am old school, i repair machines in a factory for a living and so forth have a degree of mechanical sympathy.
Yes years ago it was imperative you needed to run an engine in, today, it's split 50/50 weather you need to or not.
My train of thought is, an engine is an engine comprised of hundreds of components, not just one.
The brakes, suspension, tyres, turbo and exhaust system even, all require heat cycles, wearing in and bedding in etc.
It's total common sense then I believe just to use a bit of common sense and logic to take things easy for a while until all these parts of your expensive jigsaw of parts finally nestle in.
 
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Two excellent posts, thanks.
 
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Now that I've picked up my S3 and can refer to the manual this is what is says:

Running in
 
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Now that I've picked up my S3 and can refer to the manual this is what is says:

View attachment 105087

That's pretty much how I played it..................kept the revs under control for the first 700 miles or so and then just drove it like I intended to carry on driving it.
 
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Never thought about towing a caravan with my S3.......Hmmmmm!
 
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Think I kept the revs low for about 600 mile and then thought "F it" and blasted it...never looked back ;)

(Apologies any dealers on here but West London Audi told me the S3 was a V6 a couple of months ago...).
I can do better, when I booked my S3 in she asked "Is it a petrol or diesel"...nothing like staff training!!! :D
 
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the trouble is the cars have already done 5-20 miles when you get them brand new, the pdi center i used to work at took most cars to the redline when on pdi roadtest. mine has done 500 miles now and most of that has been "spirited". ive never run in a car and never had a problem.
 
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Related topic, though it has come up on this thread already.... It is a bad idea to let a modern engine warm up at idle revs, especially in cold weather. Ignite and drive immediately away is far more gentle to the engine.
its best to get the engine up to operating temperature as soon as possible, so yes the best way would be to just drive gently straight away for a couple of minutes, but warming up on idle to fine too, it will just take alot longer
 
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@paradigital loved my VTR. Ragged mine as soon as I got it. Missed the wee digital immobiliser on the dash when I sold it.
Personally, I've never taken it easy when I've bought a car. Always drove it as normal from day one.

Same! Absolutely adore my S3 and had my foot down from the forecourt from day 1. Never skips a beat
 
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I find it strange that people will rip a car straight out the door even though the manufacturer clearly tells you that it needs run in.

Yet some people think I am mad for using the recommended long life service regime!

Not running a car in may not do any damage but this must be risky in terms of a warranty claim at low mileage.
 

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