Jacking point confirmation

azibux1

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Hi all,

Please can you take a look at the pics and let me know if I jacked it in the right place? This was the rear of the car.

Only asking because it is usually a "pinch weld" (think that's the term) on previous cars I've had where that particular part of the sill / chassis is thinner.... Whereas this was in line with the arrow on the bumper but the metal part there actually got fatter instead and the jack seemed to sort of 'dent' this soft surface a bit... Seemed like metal maybe coated with something to stop the jacking point getting ruined though

Just wanted to check

Thanks!
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Something not looking right mate what's the black thing bolted to the floor ?

The jacking point is like a 3 thickness spotweld flange with the outer most face folding over the middle flange - hard to describe I'll try and grab a pic .....
 
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It's this, just inboard of the plastic sill finisher ...

IMG 1065
 
Hmmm I'll have a look again and see the manual

It's a saloon if that makes a difference?

I thought it looked odd but it was solid enough

Hopefully hasn't caused damage!
 
Something is not quite right as you say

I can't see what you're showing me. I've taken some more pics just now, unfortunately it does look like there is a tiny bit of damage to the edge of that chunky part.

Confused because I can't see the part you're referring to and the part I've used is in line with the mark on the sill... (that's where my finger is for reference to show the mark on the sill)

Let me know what you think

Thanks

Edit: my thinking was that audi had made that part of the chassis chunkier than the rest, to make it stronger / stop bending and show it is the jacking point... The fat bit is around 5 inches long

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Something is not quite right as you say

I can't see what you're showing me. I've taken some more pics just now, unfortunately it does look like there is a tiny bit of damage to the edge of that chunky part.

Confused because I can't see the part you're referring to and the part I've used is in line with the mark on the sill... (that's where my finger is for reference to show the mark on the sill)

Let me know what you think

Thanks

Edit: my thinking was that audi had made that part of the chassis chunkier than the rest, to make it stronger / stop bending and show it is the jacking point... The fat bit is around 5 inches long

View attachment 105030 View attachment 105031

Yep that's the bit you need ;o) - mine is the sport back so the underfloor must be different - the square on shots show it better. At first it looked like the black bolted on part was part of your jack.
 
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Phew! That's good then

I think my only mistake was doing it too close to the edge of that then... Hence it getting a bit crumpled
 
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Phew! That's good then

I think my only mistake was doing it too close to the edge of that then... Hence it getting a bit crumpled
I always use a rubber block on my trolley jacks (either an ice hockey puck, or a pad made for the jack), so it spreads the load over the whole width of the jack cup rather than just 2 small spots, one at each side. That'd probably help.
 
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I'd agree with the the above. Buy one of those blocks, which distributes the load.
 
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Hmmm I'll have a look again and see the manual

It's a saloon if that makes a difference?

I thought it looked odd but it was solid enough

Hopefully hasn't caused damage!

Have a look at this
In earlier posts there was discussion about jacking points for the A3/S3 8V model. I didn’t really see a conclusion as to the best place to put a trolley jack in order, for example, to change the wheels. Veeeight got me in the right direction as he pointed out that the 8V needs to be raised ON the seams and not either side which was apparently the jacking point for the 8P. The floorpan either side of the seam is very weak and is definitely not designed to support the car.

I purchased a nice trolley jack from Machine Mart but felt I needed something between that and the jacking point. I looked on eBay to see if the main seller of jack pad adapters had one suitable for the A3/S3 8V and the upshot was that he didn’t. The one he was selling was for the 8P and supported the car either side. However he is a very (dare I say!) “adaptable” person and I measured what was required and he made one on spec and sent it to me without asking for payment in advance! I reckoned that the slot in the rubber puck needed to be 8mm wide and 5mm deep – just deep enough to fix the position on the puck. He made one in a couple of days and I tried it at the weekend and it is perfect.

Of course you could (as veeeight has pointed out) just use a puck without a slot but with the slot you know you are centred exactly in the right position on the puck. The 5mm depth is such that there is plenty of rubber underneath to take the weight of the car so no danger of it splitting. Anyway in case anyone is interested I have taken some photos and also given the eBay link to the product. I should emphasise that I have no connection with the seller and am offering this information as a fellow Forum user who was concerned and confused in equal measure! In searching for this I also came across another seller who has a jack pad adapter for my TT so I am now a very happy boy!

AND I've done a FAQ re Jacking Points!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261663483870?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649













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The rubber pucks are indeed a good idea - unfortunately now my car is lowered the jack won't go under any longer with one on ;o(
 
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Thanks guys! Will look into this puck idea and see if it compatible with the saloon jacking point
 
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Thanks guys! Will look into this puck idea and see if it compatible with the saloon jacking point
In my case I haven't got a slot cut in the puck or anything - it's just a flat rubber surface. With my smaller jack I had to cut a puck down a bit to get it to fit into the jack's cup, but it can't be incompatible with the car!
 
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The rubber pucks are indeed a good idea - unfortunately now my car is lowered the jack won't go under any longer with one on ;o(
2 jacks? One under the other jacking point (eg rear if you want to jack the front), and just raise it enough to fit the other jack (and a protecting block/puck) under the point you actually want to use. Second jack can be a cheap one, and the lack of a rubber block won't matter as much as it'll hardly be taking any weight.
 
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