Wishing I hadn't bought this... misfire and major issues

Soooooo...

Crank pulley off
Old stud removed and replaced with new stud torqued to 20nm
Tensioner dampener on and torqued to 11 (is that right?)
Tensioner roller on but loosely nipped up
Cambelt slipped on. Think i have enough tension on the tight side but no idea for sure

The timing marks on crank are spot on. The timing marks on cam is ever so slightly forward but i think this will drag back once I put tension on the belt and pull the pin. What do you think?
 
Sounds like you're getting there now, fingers crossed she will be much happier when you fire her up :)

Did you check the CAT ?
 
Not checked the cat yet. Will have to remove it at some point assuming she runs after this.

Whats the torque setting for the 13mm nut on the tensioner?
 
More progress tonight:

Ive tensioned the cambelt and pulled the pin. Seems to be holding gap which is good.

I torqued up the nut on the tensioner to 25 nm but just found out it should be 27 so might go back in there and add the extra 2. ..

After a bit of a false start trying to turn it over by hand forgetting Id left it in gear (thanks to Dazz for pointing out my stupid mistake!) she rolled over lovely and ended up back on its timing marks absolutely spot on

Rebuilt everything else back up so all that remains to do is:
Torque up the crank pulley bolts x 4

Torque up and release the auxiliary belt tensioner

Put the front end back on

Ive only been able to get an hour on her each these last two nights as I lose daylight after work but making progress. Should have her fired up tomorrow ☺
 
Just did auxiliary belt tensioner bolts as I couldn't wait

18 lb ft those ones I believe.

Crank pulley bolts 25 nm to come tomorrow if I can find a good enough socket allen key (last one broke. Grrrr)
 
All done. Fired right up and runs fine now however she has developed a new problem and wont run again - I think the fuel pump has failed as its mooing like a champ. Grrrr
 
Ok sooo fired up again this evening no problems. Pump is noisey. Think I will chnage the filter and go from there.

Just running VCDS to clear the million fault codes and see whats next on the list. Defo needs steering angle sensor, discs and pads all round and heater flaps/motors sorting.

Big thanks to Dazz!
 
audi upgrades
Cleared all the codes via vcds and took her for a run. She felt down on power but runs. Then returned her back home switched her off and tried to fire her up again. No joy. Tried a second time and she burst back into life and the EML came back on and the idle was slightly irratic. Plugged vcds back in and it reports:

16725 Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P0341 - 004 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON

VCDS states

Check Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
Check Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
Check Timing

Im really hoping its still not a timing issue! Perhaps I disturbed something when I had it all apart. Are they difficult or expensive to replace?
 
Last edited:
Check the plug on it Rog, its on the end of the inlet cam at front of engine,2x 10mm bolts.If the plugs ok wip the sensor off and re seat it.

Implausible signal means its either bad connection ,broken wire or sensor phooked!
 
Darran said:
Check the plug on it Rog, its on the end of the inlet cam at front of engine,2x 10mm bolts.If the plugs ok wip the sensor off and re seat it.

Implausible signal means its either bad connection ,broken wire or sensor phooked!
Click to expand...

Yes its pretty accessible just need to take a look at it properly. With any luck it just needs a bit of a fiddle with. Having said ive had it undone 3 times now so probably doesnt like that too much anyway and decided to give up
 
Nothing visually wrong with the plug or wiring. Not run any electrical test (mainly because I dont know how to).

I've ordered a new sensor anyway. Will see if this fixes it. If not then I must have new wiring issues (or another dodgy sensor).
 
New sensor fitted today and it still has the same running and starting problems. Anyone know how I would check the wiring to the cps?
 
Ive run continuity checks on the pins.

The black wired pin (outer pin) I get 0 and a buzz. Good.
The brownish and black striped (could be grey) middle pin I get 1.853. Seems bad.
The brown and black striped (outer pin) I get 0.853. Again no beeps seems bad?

What do we all think? Should I be getting 0 across the lot with beeps? Or would some not beep and display 0 for whatever reason?
 
it'll be timing out. Check TDC manually, not with the timing mark, i bet the bottom pulley has slipped throwing it out
 
Broken Byzan said:
it'll be timing out. Check TDC manually, not with the timing mark, i bet the bottom pulley has slipped throwing it out
Click to expand...
God I hope not! Would it not throw a correlation code rather than implausible signal? So screwdriver down cylinder one job is it? Or can i view marking through a gearbox inspection cover?
 
Last edited:
20161003 183252
20161003 183241

Still on the marks
 
Ive not done a manual tdc check down the plug hole but i think this is ok.

I checked the same wiring on my NA 1.8 Audi Avant and I got 0 on the black wired pin (as above), a straight '1' on the brownish and black striped (could be grey) middle pin and another straight '1' on the brown and black striped (outer pin). This I am guessing is right then as that car runs fine.

So on that basis it would suggest the brownish and black striped (could be grey) middle pin is at fault. The figure does jump around when the cable is wiggled too. Im going to peel back a litle way down that wire and connect a fresh piece and jump it straight to near where the pin goes into the plug and see what that does
 
Disaster yesterday. Fired her up. Chain tensioner making a racket. Watched inside the car for warning light and there it is - yellow oil sensor light on. Engine off. I suspect having cleaned out the breather system its chucked its sludgy load into the sump and blocked the pick up tube. Got to get it to a garage now. Gutted.

Any advice as to what I should replace vs what I can get away with?
 
Broken Byzan said:
yellow light will be level, or sensor failure. Red is pressure
Click to expand...

Hi yes I realise this but I cant recall just how many threads I have read that start with the yellow light then rapidly progress to the red warning light. Coincidence? Maybe but I cant deny the fact that the chain tensioner is not filling with oil and, now when I think about it, the inside of the cam cover was virtually bone dry - no sign of oil - when I last took it off.

I think what has happened before I bought it is as follows:

Oil pick up blocked and started causing issues with pressure. The cam chain tensioner wasn't getting the feed and so failed destroying the plastic guides against the cam cover. The oil looked very dirty given it had only been changed a month or so before so it's likely had an engine flush which has made it worse.

Fast forward to my ownership, I've replaced the cam chain tensioner, cam belt etc and performed oil change. That's helped a little but ultimately the oil pressure issues are still there hence the sometimes noisey and now always noisey cam chain tensioner. Im best to drop the sump. New pump, pickup, o ring, sealant and chain (comes as part of the kit) ordered.
 
20161008 144752

All the bits are here. Oil pump, tensioner, sump plug, genuine pick up pipe, o ring seal, chain and sump pan gasket sealant. All for 60 quid delivered. I lucked out and received a £15 discount voucher the day I ordered it
 
Just wondering how this is coming along now, have you replaced the old parts yet?
 
Oil pump done. Pick up pipe was full of debris mainly the mashed up old cam chain tensioner pads. Anyway the tensioner area was still very rattly so needed investigation. This is what was found:

Cam gear teeth - mainly on the exhaust - have been ground to almost a point. The cam chain has stretched. This is why its making a racket. So need new chain which is easy but been told the cam gear should be replaced as it is likely to wreck the new chain and a tooth could snap. The slack chain is also the reason why Im getting a dodgy reading at the cam shaft sensor as there is too much play to take up before the inlet moves. So questions:

1) Anyone got ETKA so I can check if the gear is available seperately

2) How do I remove the cam gear? Is it splined on or heat to expand the metal then press it off and on?

3) If not, anyone got a spare one or knackered cam I can pinch the gear from

Thanks
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7577-Audi...818555?hash=item462228ee7b:g:WpQAAOSw7ThUgG8G

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A6-A4-Skoda-Superb-VW-Passat-1-8T-CAMSHAFT-OUTLET-EXHAUST-SIDE-058109022B-/331996267144?fits=Car+Make:Audi|Cars+Type:1.8+T&hash=item4d4c850288:g:cK8AAOSwoBtW5gN0

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-M...:1.8+T&hash=item3d27289790:g:6dAAAOSwgyxWVO9t

Here's some off Ebay if you don't want the ones offered?

The play in the chain will be due to the missing tensioner pads rather than the chain stretching (I'd still replace it anyway)

The gear is pressed on, it uses a woodruff key, you can see in the photo's I sent.
 
QuattroCalum said:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7577-Audi...818555?hash=item462228ee7b:g:WpQAAOSw7ThUgG8G

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A6-A4-Skoda-Superb-VW-Passat-1-8T-CAMSHAFT-OUTLET-EXHAUST-SIDE-058109022B-/331996267144?fits=Car+Make:Audi|Cars+Type:1.8+T&hash=item4d4c850288:g:cK8AAOSwoBtW5gN0

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-MK1-EXHAUST-CAMSHAFT-1-8T-20V-BAM-AMK-GENUINE-06B109111-AUDI-S3-CUPRA-R-/262649976720?fits=Car+Make:Audi|Cars+Type:1.8+T&hash=item3d27289790:g:6dAAAOSwgyxWVO9t

Here's some off Ebay if you don't want the ones offered?

The play in the chain will be due to the missing tensioner pads rather than the chain stretching (I'd still replace it anyway)

The gear is pressed on, it uses a woodruff key, you can see in the photo's I sent.
Click to expand...
Hi thanks for the links. I have responded to your offer too.

The cam chain tensioner was the first item I had replaced along with all new pads etc so the slack must be in the chain now?
 
The lobes look like they have pitting on the edges. The centres are ok though. The journals do not look good though at all. Thoughts?
 
Holy Moses, what a mess, I guess you're going to be heating them up and using the gears off them with you're original cams now?
 
I admire your dedication in trying to fix the problem and not just dismiss it and give, I hope with the aid of someones helplike Gaz it s finally sorted and then you can start tweeting it, I you are like me I love my B6 Avant 2.5tdi and could not bare to lose it. Hope the next thread you put up it is all sorted, cheers from Colin
 
audi upgrades
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