Cracked bolt inside turbo

Solberg

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So guys after having the car for stand last weeks I finally got all parts scraped togheter to do something about it, a simple turbo to manifold gasket change was the start, ofcourse with my luck the last of 3 bolts cracked inside the turbo, what a ******* joy. Any advices?

Snapchat 3469573952404853199
 
not stock turbo? because if you are talking about the 3 bolts on top of the manifold, they are the wrong bolts
 
Franken f23 and chinafold... Car is LHD.

I found the best soloution is to remove the turbo, but my GOD that was not an easy job...spent like 4-5 hours with the car jacked in the driveway, loosened chargepipe, turbo to manifold and downpipe, the three downpipe nuts was actually the easy job, but there is a 13mm nut, with another nut on the backside, with a bracket to the engine that is not possible to get out. Cant get the downpipe out so have started trying to cut the motherfucker into pices but my grinder blade is to short blablabla, hope to get it out by dark tomorrow.


If or when i get the oil pipes off, how much oil will leak out? And if I cannot get the cracked bolt inside the turbo out or and if the threads is ruined what can I do about it? When i put bolts into the turbo the threads get rounded...

Turbo is only a year old, but I got engine hardware to do alot more than a franken f23 i belive so ive been thinking alittle bit about a bigger turbo, any recomended drop in turbos that will fit with a ca 400whp goal say? Ive got integrated engineering, tuscan i beam rods and wiseco pistons.
 
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you need many extensions and universal joints to get into the places you need to get to.

if you want to remove the DP without cutting you should remove the steering rack from the column, remove the sub frame bolts and drop that assembly down. you will have greater access to the 3 turbo to DP bolts that way

don't worry about oil leakage when you undo the bottom turbo oil drain - shouldn't be too much, just make sure you don't lose that gasket and the bolts (they are tiny) - even make sure you get new gasket.

it sounds like you need new turbo bolt sleeves. replace the ones that have been damaged (or maybe they just need a clean from bit of metal that have been left behind but he damaged bolts?)
showimage-jpg.10252


maybe this thread helps? http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/k04-threaded-insert-replacement.165340/

once the turbo is out you should be able to get the piece of broken bolt out of it but you need to make sure all bits of metal are gone otherwise goodbye turbine! might be belt to split the hot side off and clean it out before putting it back together
 
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Wow could not get a better reply, thanks alot Ian :D

But, are these sleeves in a franken aswell, hope its not just k03 k04 audi turbos? :/
 
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Yeah your insert are a genius but got the turbo out and saw there are non in the franken f23... shait.

Spent a good 15 ish hours taking turbo out, it is the worst nightmare Ive ever worked with. Im doing it home on jackstand and have gravel in my parking which results in sand over all, all tools, all parts coming down, engine room, paintwork(scratches ouch), all clothes, phone, pockets, horriblehorrible.

I wanted to try remove it without taking off any thing, so got both turbo and OEM downpipe out without removing subframe, head or even the manifold. Hade to cut downpipe in 3 slices, could not get my saw into the drivers arch so yeah, i spent most of the time just trying to cut the exhaust. The hardest part with the turbo was actually when it was all loosened, and trying to get it out of the engine bay...had to drag it out between torpedo and manifold, it was actually so hard that im thinking of removing head before I put anything back....just a nightmare.

This whole job got me thinking of just buying a new turbo with all this hard s3 turbo changes...I dont want to change turbo again after winter when i get tired of the franken really.... GT2871R any good?


Finally out, Franken F23

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Top bolt there cracked, what a troublemaker lol.

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Turbo i got with the car, k04/20, I see this one gots inserts, tho one is missing. And turbo has slack.

20160823 192448



Exhaust ****** out in 3 pices

Screenshot 20160924 222616
 
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I dont want to change turbo again after winter when i get tired of the franken really.... GT2871R any good?

Not worth bothering with IMO... get a gt3076 billet if going down that route and top mount it etc

<tuffty/>
 
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Not worth bothering with IMO... get a gt3076 billet if going down that route and top mount it etc

<tuffty/>

Where can I buy this, no idea about prices but a GT2871R cost around 2,200 GBP in Norway.
 
Good job getting it out without removing the sub frame

Now you have cut the DP you are going to have to go aftermarket!!! ;)
That is where you will get most benefit (along w/manifold)

But now you are considering gt28 so I guess sell the frankenturbo to put some money toward your BT build
 
Good job getting it out without removing the sub frame

Now you have cut the DP you are going to have to go aftermarket!!! ;)
That is where you will get most benefit (along w/manifold)

But now you are considering gt28 so I guess sell the frankenturbo to put some money toward your BT build

Heh thanks! Cut it because ive got 3" dp coming from germany on monday, hope its easier to get in than the oem pipe lol.

Only thing with the franken is ive never maxed it/tested potential. It was benched to only 265whp because of fueling issues.... so im going to give it a think... but ofcourse dont wanna do this job 2 times thats for sure.
 
What about gtx28 turbo? Gt28 is the older style one I believe.
 
I've done this job myself a few times... and it's a pita...

Where in Norway are you located?

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I've done this job myself a few times... and it's a pita...

Where in Norway are you located?

Sent fra min SM-G928F via Tapatalk

I live in Sandefjord in Vestfold :)

Yep, a bit of a headache, got my new "relentless" copy downpipe with 200 cell cat today from team2fast, found out that when I took out the OEM cats they where holed out... hmmm.

Anyways tried to fit it today and I dont think it is possible without removing anything lol, my brother who works at audi/wv thought it might be easiest to loosen the driveshaft by the engine, put it to the side and get DP trough from underneath. Cannnoooot wait to get it back together now, cant sleep at night feeling like a kid waiting for christmas eve as the max boost pressure Ive driven with is only 0,45 bar on the franken turbo, going to add more boost when i install boost, afr, fuel pressure gauges + fpr this week woho.





Anyone got pics where I can see where people weld on bung for extra afr wideband sensor on the dowpipe? I got the Innovate MXT-L... Im welding in the bung tomorrow but not so sure where I should put it yet... without hitting something.
 
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Nice, I'm based in Bergen, do you have a thread on the Norwegian vacn forum?

I totally understand, my S3 hasn't been on the road for a year now... miss it so bad

Here you can see where I fitted mine, just above the flex section so it clears the bulkhead ;)

83955c01d99d72b8e59831362473358d.jpg


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Cool! No Im not even a member, will be in november so I get a full year membership, thats the only reason really.

A year, ouch Ive been without for a month and it kills me inside haha :p

Vband looks so much easier...been considering just cutting of the u turn on mine and weld on vband so i do not have to take of anymore car parts to fit it...

Wont the 02 sensor hit the floor/torpedo like that? :O Was thinking of something like 30cm down and on the right side from viewing it like on picture you have, just under the vband there... hmm.
 
V-band is an genius invention!

No the wideband does not hit the bulkhead, it's close but does not hit. Had it like that since my BBT hybrid setup and works great :)

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v-band for the win!....
20140316_130510.jpg


<tuffty/>
 
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V-band is an genius invention!

No the wideband does not hit the bulkhead, it's close but does not hit. Had it like that since my BBT hybrid setup and works great :)

Sent fra min SM-G928F via Tapatalk
Aight, thanks :D

I feel like a total newbie with my relentless when you guys post such nice pics...lol, ill vband it when i go bigger turbo and custom dp for sure!


Can you tell by these pics if this is a wide or narrowband sensor? Its my current oem sensor, just dont now what I have. Or can a tuner just use the one i install for the gauge for wideband when mapping it?

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Guessing you have an APY?

Mapping will be done to the capabilities of the ECU so if ME7 narrow band then wideband AFR I assume is just for keeping an eye on fuelling..

One thing to be aware of is if you fit the lambda after a join (especially with v-band) then it will suck a bit of air in until hot so AFR readings can be a little off...

<tuffty/>
 
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Aaaah the ****** is out, welded on a washer so it melted nicely and hit it with the hammer while glowing...came right out :)
Also did som thread fix and clean. I thought the threads where damaged but I belive the problem is too long bolts, so thats why the bolts get rounded in the tip. I used 73mm bolts without washers when they got rounded, my new expensive 12,8 grade bolts are 75mm, tho even with nordlock washer I belive thats too long. What is the recommended bolt length for franken f23 with chinafold and using a pair of nordlocks on each bolt ??

20160929 204030




Also tigged on a vband-set and sensor bung last night, hopefully this will make it possible to install without removing subframe, axle or manifold.

20160929 203915
 
Slowly getting the S3 back in shape, got my gauges in today, really satisfied with fitment in mid vent, also got fuelpressure gauge up and changed the totally ****** OEM boost hose that keeps jumping off when boost is onset.

Getting studs and copper nuts for DP + exhaust bandage in mail on monday then it will be on the road again! (hopefully lol).

Before:

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Hard to get out, tried with some special tools but eventually I just had to rip the whole **** off, vent was trash after lol...

20161001 122653


Prosport Premium Peak boost + Innovate MXT-L AFR, plate is ebay from 3rdesign: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222226071810

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New Turbohose from Forge:

Snapchat 1457268966246507764


Inline fuel pressure gauge:

Snapchat 3067383218843881405


Drop in fuel pressure regulator for VAG 3-5 bar i reckon:

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No fun without good brakes, also got KW2 coilovers on it, sits like glue.

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So this is how it looks :)

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And new golf 2 me and my brother picked up, with AGU 1,8T (gti?) engine and piggy back ready for tuning:

Snapchat 228847083466315224
 
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The paint on that golf is ace!!!

Can you pls elaborate/photos of how the in line fuel gauge installs?
 
The paint on that golf is ace!!!

Can you pls elaborate/photos of how the in line fuel gauge installs?

Agreed, belive the name was GTO brazen orange :O

Not around my car at the moment, but its really easy, just cut the fuel hose before the fuelrail (inlet), use something under where you cut it as some fuel will spill out, not much tho. Twist the gauge into the T-adapter with some thread tape and put each end of fuel hose on the T-adapter...and thats it. 5 min job if the charge pipe is off :) I think the gauge kit was like 13GBP.


Circles show which hose, its the one that goes to the fuel rail. Arrow shoes where i cut and placed the gauge.

Imageedit 1 3480653442


Arrow shows where the gauge is now, its coming up on the side of the charge pipe so its easy to see. Not really any else to put it better, unless you have a custom fuelrail with integrated fuel pressure gauge and regulator i think? :)


Imageedit 1 4038027469
 
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This thread topic is going to hell, literally.

After 3-4 days extra work because of that damn turbo bolt that cracked I finally got it together, all I had to do left was connect oil return from turbo to sump....guess what, one of the bolts broke off "inside" the sump, think I might have screwed the bolt in at an angle (2 bolts to connect pipe to sump). Was getting dark and cold so I just thought... **** my life and ****** off after that, not touching my car again ever, im going to sell it for nothing and buy a ******* lada which i will never ever have to touch with tools, cheap *** gas too.

Cya. :salute:





And yeah.. the relentless downpipe comes with a 2,5" outlet and my Miltek catback is 2,75" which no single shop in norway sells parts for. Maybe I was a bad person in a former life and karma is chasing me, I dont know.
 
I am sorry for your mishap and bad luck, maybe we both did something bad in a previous life.

I have learnt through Camper Van's and especially this S3 that you always have to expect a horrible chain of fails with a project, you will be back again tomorrow and you may as well change the oil pick up (unless you did this already - in which case the sump will be easy to remove) whilst the sump is off.

you can see my pessimism in the reply to GazzaA3 yesterday - describing what my mind imagines will happen with a catastrophic drive shaft failure, nothing ever seems to go smoothly. or if it does whilst celebrating I will stand on a 2 block lego brick or stub my toe on a radiator. :)

On my T25 Camper a few years ago when I was drilling out a broken bell housing bolt after changing the clutch - it was going surprisingly smoothly then low and behold straight through the back of the bell housing and into the cylinder pushrod tubes (Araldite was my friend)
 
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Haha cheers stuart, I feel the pain :friends:

Meh, good nights sleep and we can restart again. I hope I can just use a drill bit and screw the bolt to shreds, I have planned the car to be on the road tomorrow so this bad luck is not going to stop me :rockwoot:
 
That's the spirit!!!

I find a good hearty meal along with some *play 70's porn music* always helps!!! hahaha
 
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So you picked up that Golf! I've been looking at the add and thought that it must be like a gokart to drive :D

Big fan of the parts and upgrades you're doing and your car is really cool on rotas in all black!

I know exactly what you are going through, during the build of my car a hole lot of stuff did not go according to my plan...

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