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What if I just replace the PCV and gasket with the revised parts and given the low mileage 2 - 2.5k I cover annually am I safe?
2.0tfsi oil catch can kit upgrade kit to conventional factory setup.
- Thread starter Charlie Farley
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i'm sticking with my current method, been checking the oil level daily and comparing consumption over a set milage/time period and its looking very good now, also don't get any puff's of smoke now either that I used to get a while back.
just change the pcv , switch to a better 5-40 oil and run the car over the 3k mark on a brisk drive on a regular basis , that sets things into cleaning mode and will burn of a lot of the nasty build up and save getting clogged up by not getting the engine hot enough to handle any possible buildup.
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Okay, I was using Mobil 1 ESP 5W 30 last year but this year changed to Castrol Edge 5w30 LL as I was told castrol is better for Audi, since changing it I couldn't tell any difference.
Quick question can I mix the 2, reason I ask I have 3 litres of each mobil left from last year and castrol unused and when that is done then go the 5w40 route.
Quick question can I mix the 2, reason I ask I have 3 litres of each mobil left from last year and castrol unused and when that is done then go the 5w40 route.
lfcrule1972
Winter is coming...
I used to own a DS3 and remember reading lots of similar posts on their forum. In the end most of them opted for a walnut blast clean, with before and after camera shots to ease this issue.
Has anyone with a 2.0 tfsi engine done the same ?
Has anyone with a 2.0 tfsi engine done the same ?
When I was going through this process of should I do the mod and what to do I did come across a report carried by an independent motoring body , i'll look back and put up the link later, anyway in a short version, it concluded that after inspecting a set number of cars with engines that are known to suffer from oil build and carbon build up ( tfsi's ) to mention the main culprit, the number of engines that had serious build up problems were directly attributed to low useage and or higher levels of tune .
The first one , low usage included cars that only did short and infrequent runs in which the engines never reached optimum operating condition, yes the water temp may have been reading dead on 90 , but the oil never really reached optimum operating condition nor did the engine get to a optimum operating temp to burn off any excess carbon or residual oil, end result over a period of time was an increasing level of build of contaminates in the engine and specifically the cylinder head.
the second culprit is the engine that had been remapped or tuned to a higher level and again not being driven enough and /or the engine not being allowed to reach the optimum operating level for that tune, thus also contributing to excess levels of carbon/oil build up.
there conclusion was quite clear , cars that had low milage given there age and / or only had low or very low annual milage were more likely to be effected by the problem and also much more likely to require substantial work to rectify the problem, and the same applied to the higher tuned cars.
They also concluded that cars of a higher milage per annum were a lot less likely to suffer from the same level of carbon/oil build up , but how well the engine had been operating was the main factor in both cases.
So after reading that I came to the obvious conclusion that , best plan was too (1) use the car on a regular basis , (2) drive it properly , (3) avoid short and slow trips, change to a better oil and hopefully that will reduce the effects for me.
anyway, just some info from the article I read, take it or leave it chaps , but it does kinda sum up things with the tfsi engine.
The first one , low usage included cars that only did short and infrequent runs in which the engines never reached optimum operating condition, yes the water temp may have been reading dead on 90 , but the oil never really reached optimum operating condition nor did the engine get to a optimum operating temp to burn off any excess carbon or residual oil, end result over a period of time was an increasing level of build of contaminates in the engine and specifically the cylinder head.
the second culprit is the engine that had been remapped or tuned to a higher level and again not being driven enough and /or the engine not being allowed to reach the optimum operating level for that tune, thus also contributing to excess levels of carbon/oil build up.
there conclusion was quite clear , cars that had low milage given there age and / or only had low or very low annual milage were more likely to be effected by the problem and also much more likely to require substantial work to rectify the problem, and the same applied to the higher tuned cars.
They also concluded that cars of a higher milage per annum were a lot less likely to suffer from the same level of carbon/oil build up , but how well the engine had been operating was the main factor in both cases.
So after reading that I came to the obvious conclusion that , best plan was too (1) use the car on a regular basis , (2) drive it properly , (3) avoid short and slow trips, change to a better oil and hopefully that will reduce the effects for me.
anyway, just some info from the article I read, take it or leave it chaps , but it does kinda sum up things with the tfsi engine.
I had also been using mobil 1 esp 5-30 and for a while , and I was allways topping up the oil, last month I did an oil service etc and starting using Fuchs Titan Race Pro S ,5w-40 ester , results speak for themselves , over the same milage etc I would have used approx. 500ml of the mobil 1 ,with the titan I've hardly used any and I drive my car the same whatever oil is in it, so that's sealed it for me frankly, and I don't get the hot engine oil smell now either that I sometimes had with the mobil1.
just my experience chaps.
Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5W-40 Ester Fully Synthetic Engine Oil
Description
Fuchs Titan Race Pro S (formerly known as Silkolene Pro S) is simply one of the best quality engine oils there is! It's a premium, ester based full synthetic motor oil created to meet the needs of the most demanding driver - ideal for fast road use, track days and competition use.
Pro S was previously available under the Silkolene brand - the engine oil of choice for motorists demanding a premium, ester synthetic engine oil. Pro S has now been re-labeled as Fuchs Titan Race Pro S and offers the same outstanding formulation.
Fuchs Titan Race Pro S is available in 4 different viscosity grades - Pro S 5W/30, Pro S 5w/40 (this product), Pro S 10W/50 and Pro S 10W/60. Titan Race Pro S 10W/50 and Pro S 10W/60 are particularly recommended for use in warmer ambient temperatures and for extreme / endurance use on track.
Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w-40 is suitable for use in all modern cars for which a 5w-40 oil is specified. It is particularly recommended for high performance engines where its exceptional shear stability and wear protection help to maintain consistent power output and reliability. The full synthetic base fluid ensures that the products are thermally stable and extremely resistant to oxidation, even when stressed to the extremes of endurance. The excellent overall performance profile ensures optimum protection even in the most demanding turbo-charged power units in modern performance cars.
Fuchs Titan Race Pro S is an oil formulated for motorsport, track and high performance use. Fuchs have not therefore sought manufacturer approvals for road use, but this is an engine oil of outstanding quality and stability, exceeding the requirements of many industry and manufacturer standards.
Description
Fuchs Titan Race Pro S (formerly known as Silkolene Pro S) is simply one of the best quality engine oils there is! It's a premium, ester based full synthetic motor oil created to meet the needs of the most demanding driver - ideal for fast road use, track days and competition use.
Pro S was previously available under the Silkolene brand - the engine oil of choice for motorists demanding a premium, ester synthetic engine oil. Pro S has now been re-labeled as Fuchs Titan Race Pro S and offers the same outstanding formulation.
Fuchs Titan Race Pro S is available in 4 different viscosity grades - Pro S 5W/30, Pro S 5w/40 (this product), Pro S 10W/50 and Pro S 10W/60. Titan Race Pro S 10W/50 and Pro S 10W/60 are particularly recommended for use in warmer ambient temperatures and for extreme / endurance use on track.
Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w-40 is suitable for use in all modern cars for which a 5w-40 oil is specified. It is particularly recommended for high performance engines where its exceptional shear stability and wear protection help to maintain consistent power output and reliability. The full synthetic base fluid ensures that the products are thermally stable and extremely resistant to oxidation, even when stressed to the extremes of endurance. The excellent overall performance profile ensures optimum protection even in the most demanding turbo-charged power units in modern performance cars.
Fuchs Titan Race Pro S is an oil formulated for motorsport, track and high performance use. Fuchs have not therefore sought manufacturer approvals for road use, but this is an engine oil of outstanding quality and stability, exceeding the requirements of many industry and manufacturer standards.
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Okay Rob, definitely switching to this oil once mine runs out (don't want to do it just yet as I only done a oil change couple of months ago and it'll be a shame to throw away the 3 litres of unused castrol edge 5w30 away) my question is this oil going to suitable for my driving requirements given the low mileage I cover as it states on the description it's for track, fast road use etc
Where did you buy yours from?
Where did you buy yours from?
and high performance turbo engines, I think we come under that umbrella.....i'm not going back to anything else.
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Thanks Stifler.
PCV and gasket is around £56. Why have Audi released the car with such inferior parts then charge silly money for these to be replaced?
Rob, you're right... If I had know this car to have so many issues then I probably wouldn't have bought it.
Rang opie oils this morning as they had a 15% discount running today, the guy I spoke to recommended 5w30 fuchs Titan pro race as oppose to the 5w40.
I paid TPS a visit and he even says 5w30.
Now I don't have much knowledge of these other than one being thicker oil than than the other.
I'll wait for more feedback from Rob, in the next few months and by that time my current castrol edge would have run out. Then make a decision which route to take.
PCV and gasket is around £56. Why have Audi released the car with such inferior parts then charge silly money for these to be replaced?
Rob, you're right... If I had know this car to have so many issues then I probably wouldn't have bought it.
Rang opie oils this morning as they had a 15% discount running today, the guy I spoke to recommended 5w30 fuchs Titan pro race as oppose to the 5w40.
I paid TPS a visit and he even says 5w30.
Now I don't have much knowledge of these other than one being thicker oil than than the other.
I'll wait for more feedback from Rob, in the next few months and by that time my current castrol edge would have run out. Then make a decision which route to take.
As with most things that involve cars and high performance engines, they are an ever evolving item, most designs are tested to destruction under ideal conditions but things can and do still go wrong, also as time goes by faults occur with certain parts and the need to revise an item occurs, with audi's it does appear to be more often than we would like.
Also for the most part these engine are fine, they have made a lot of them, some with more issues than others but the failure rate is very small given the volumes concerned, add to that most owners never have that many probs and we never hear from them, only the problematic cars that get the mentioned, and yes like mine.....
Anyway chap, you have probably replaced more than you really had too to be honest, the parts you have done were ok so that doesn't really make your car problematic , nor does it make it less worth owning, you could buy another well known brand of german car and have more problem than you have know, and you don't really have any probs chap, your just perfoming " preventative maintaince" which is the best way to be.
in all honesty the pcv is worth doing as the end results will be better than leaving the earlier one on.
oil wise I went with the 5w-40 as it does help reduce the consumption etc , works fine for me, 5w-30 is the norm but 5w-40 is better for our tfsi's that like a nice drink of oil all the time.
Also for the most part these engine are fine, they have made a lot of them, some with more issues than others but the failure rate is very small given the volumes concerned, add to that most owners never have that many probs and we never hear from them, only the problematic cars that get the mentioned, and yes like mine.....
Anyway chap, you have probably replaced more than you really had too to be honest, the parts you have done were ok so that doesn't really make your car problematic , nor does it make it less worth owning, you could buy another well known brand of german car and have more problem than you have know, and you don't really have any probs chap, your just perfoming " preventative maintaince" which is the best way to be.
in all honesty the pcv is worth doing as the end results will be better than leaving the earlier one on.
oil wise I went with the 5w-40 as it does help reduce the consumption etc , works fine for me, 5w-30 is the norm but 5w-40 is better for our tfsi's that like a nice drink of oil all the time.
have a read through this thread i started while back on the subject of oil consumption and oil selection, you may choose 5-40 after reading it.
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/recommeded-5w40-engine-oil-for-tfsi-engine.276904/
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/recommeded-5w40-engine-oil-for-tfsi-engine.276904/
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Okay, so far sorted the following..
Diverter valve, cam follower, and once the pcv is done, is there anything else needs doing... I read somewhere oil pick up pipe?
Thanks
Diverter valve, cam follower, and once the pcv is done, is there anything else needs doing... I read somewhere oil pick up pipe?
Thanks
oil pick up is another subject all together and can be a costly job on a quattro, and that's if your one does really need doing , it may not.
if you have had the car for two years without any issues such as oil pressure warning etc and it get's a decent oil change regulary then i wouldnt touch it at this time unles you have any reason to suspect it may require doing.
There are a lot of threads on here about it and the fix , and the same applies you may or maynot need to mess around with it at this time.
i cant really advise you which way to go nozrul on this one, maybe have a look at the other threads on the issue and make and try to make an informed discision from that.
I understand there is another effective alternative way to clean any oil sludge and debris from the pickup pipe filter mesh without having to remove the sump etc , it also help's free up the hydraulic tensioner oilway thus the tensioner is less problematic , not used myself but it has been recommended by a few guys I know with tfsi's .
anway ,that's some more info for you to chomp on chap.
if you have had the car for two years without any issues such as oil pressure warning etc and it get's a decent oil change regulary then i wouldnt touch it at this time unles you have any reason to suspect it may require doing.
There are a lot of threads on here about it and the fix , and the same applies you may or maynot need to mess around with it at this time.
i cant really advise you which way to go nozrul on this one, maybe have a look at the other threads on the issue and make and try to make an informed discision from that.
I understand there is another effective alternative way to clean any oil sludge and debris from the pickup pipe filter mesh without having to remove the sump etc , it also help's free up the hydraulic tensioner oilway thus the tensioner is less problematic , not used myself but it has been recommended by a few guys I know with tfsi's .
anway ,that's some more info for you to chomp on chap.
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Hello all, I was watching a video on youtube a guy replaces the PCV with a revised
OEM PCV... I noticed the pattern on the circular part on the top to be different on the newer part as well as some marking etched on the side of the newer part.
My PCV looks like the newer part the guy replaced with on his video which leads me to believe the previous owner may have already replaced the PCV on mine? The marking on the side on mine reads ''29013''.
Can someone with a bit of knowledge be able to clarify this whether or not I actually have the revised PCV on mine please?
Many thanks
OEM PCV... I noticed the pattern on the circular part on the top to be different on the newer part as well as some marking etched on the side of the newer part.
My PCV looks like the newer part the guy replaced with on his video which leads me to believe the previous owner may have already replaced the PCV on mine? The marking on the side on mine reads ''29013''.
Can someone with a bit of knowledge be able to clarify this whether or not I actually have the revised PCV on mine please?
Many thanks
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I just took a small mirror to look underneath the the PCV.... this is the number I can see 06F29101 N or M then on the bottom MHS.
Mine is a 56 plate 2006 2.0T BUL engine.
Is this the revised PCV?
Mine is a 56 plate 2006 2.0T BUL engine.
Is this the revised PCV?
did a search on a few parts lists and TPS under either version of that part number but nothing found, maybe double check it is correct.
from my checking the "n" looks to be the upto date revision, but there may be a newer one but cant see a ref to it.
if yours is deffo "n" then the old one has already been replaced now and your good to go as you are.
from my checking the "n" looks to be the upto date revision, but there may be a newer one but cant see a ref to it.
if yours is deffo "n" then the old one has already been replaced now and your good to go as you are.
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just for you nozrul the answer to you dilemma, well you'll need to read it to find the answer you are looking for re the PCV.
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/pcv-help.190417/#post-1888711
have a read through and you will have more than enough info, although this is a DTM owner it is the same BUL engine so pcv will be correct.
" N" looks to be upto date for the BUL engine.
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/pcv-help.190417/#post-1888711
have a read through and you will have more than enough info, although this is a DTM owner it is the same BUL engine so pcv will be correct.
" N" looks to be upto date for the BUL engine.
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As per Audi... Apparently the "R" (06F29101R) Is the current revised version for my chassis though not entirely sure what the difference is between the two?
Stifler
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I rang my local audi dealer and they said "N" was current listed pcv for the BUL, maybe a call to audi Uk may resolve the confusion amongst dealers...
so just been on the phone to audi uk to get a deffo revision number for the newest pcv, the correct part number is 06F129101R, so your info was correct nozrul, and having just checked mine it is also the "R " version, so up to you if you still want to change it, as its only a £30 part i'd change it just be as upto date as possible.
When I mentioned my local dealer didn't offer me the newest version and the "n" was current they said it may have been just a specific case to BUL engine codes, sounds a bit of a naff excuse frankly, anyway that's cleared up that problem.
When I mentioned my local dealer didn't offer me the newest version and the "n" was current they said it may have been just a specific case to BUL engine codes, sounds a bit of a naff excuse frankly, anyway that's cleared up that problem.
Having thought about it , its not the first time my local dealer hasn't offered me a part that was the newest revision , a few times they gave me an older part saying it was correct then had to admit they were wrong and replace it with the newest version, and when I confronted them about the errors they said the have my car down on there database as a, wait for it, " A4 Avant 2.0TDI Multi.143 " where did they get that info from and its matched against my chassis number/BUL engine ........and that happened a few times even at my local MOT test centre said it was a TDI 143....the mind boggles
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Thanks Rob, any idea what the difference is between the ''N'' and ''R'' ?
Off topic.... the revised rubber snub mount what's the part number please?
Off topic.... the revised rubber snub mount what's the part number please?
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