Central locking pump questions

AdzA3AGU

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Hi guys, recently my central locking pump (1999 S3 APY) Melted itself due to water ingress from somewhere. I bought a replacement off a year unknown 8L A3. All the part numbers match up except the letter on the end, one is H the other is P

I've plugged it all in and the locking works with key in the door. However will not work off the remote. Is the part simply incompatibe with the car hence why the remote will not work? Or will the key jus need coding to the new pump??

I had another look on ebay and the only S3 pumps I can find are off BAM engines and the letter on the end is E will this part function in the same way? (On key but not remote) or will it function as normal due to being an s3 unit?
 
my advice would be to just swap the vacuum pump over. then u dont need to code anything

thats what i did, unless your circuit board is effed, then u will need to code the pump to the car

img_2194-jpg.77805



img_2196-jpg.77806


would take about 30 minutes max
 
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Unfortunatly my chip looks like a family of mold has gone sick over it it is literally DoDo dead.
 
how do i go about coding it??

probably via channel 35 in vcds, i've never coded a central locking pump, so i wouldnt know where to start really, also if your replacement pump is from a facelift im also not sure if it will be fully compatible since FL models have a separate boot release button on the fob and the boot release mechanism is completely different to the pfl ones (which means the way the pump communicates with the other control modules ccm etc. might be different)
 
nah pump is off an earlier A3 I was looking it up last night after the post its a 1998. also ive no idea anyone with VCDS so looks like its key only from now on
 
Having just been through this one myself I hope I can help.

If your remotes will not work, they do need rematching to the new pump, I guess your replacement pump is the H version (no remote) My A3 had one (H) fitted when I bought it.
As far as I am aware you need a P or E version for remote operation, a G will only give two button remote operation not 3 button.
H and A versions are definitely no good as they have no radio remote function.

Incidentally I bought an 8D0 E version and it works great, but I was insanely lucky as I bought what the seller thought was a rear washer pump ;-)

You don't need an S3 specific pump, any radio equipped A3 pump will do, keep your old pump motor it may come in handy as a replacement if the graphite impeller lets go.

The coding is simply what optional functions the pump has active, safety locking, remote window operation etc. An 8L0 P pump is your best option and will probably be coded exactly the same as your broken one, if not its a two minute job to change the soft coding with VCDS.
 
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Ahhhh okay so the H will never work off remote then. Good thing I held off buying a blank to code in then.

Cheers buddy!
 
i've finally worked out how to code/match the friggin' keys properly - coding the central locking module being a separate thing where you can turn on options just as beep on lock, auto lock once at cruising speed etc.

@Dohcwp - remember how i was messaging you a while back!? LOL

on my car i couldn't use VCDS to do it which was a pain and all instructions online were kind of right but i wasn't getting anywhere!

The other day i was able to erase all my keys - and re match the central locking to them so i was able to make all 5 key fobs do wireless functions after a year of trying with no success! (immo being a separate process again which i figured out a couple months back)

so i guess if you did get stuck on having to code there would've been someone to get you out of that pickle pretty quickly :p
 
i know how to code blanks to my car i had to do it when i bought it haha key without remote in ignition turn ign on then withing 30 seconds place blank in door, lock door press unlock once. wait 5 seconds press unlock again Repeat for each key but press unlock twice after locking for position 2 and then do 3 time for 3 and 4 times for 4 My ECU only allows 4 keys not five though
 
i've finally worked out how to code/match the friggin' keys properly - coding the central locking module being a separate thing where you can turn on options just as beep on lock, auto lock once at cruising speed etc.

@Dohcwp - remember how i was messaging you a while back!? LOL

on my car i couldn't use VCDS to do it which was a pain and all instructions online were kind of right but i wasn't getting anywhere!

The other day i was able to erase all my keys - and re match the central locking to them so i was able to make all 5 key fobs do wireless functions after a year of trying with no success! (immo being a separate process again which i figured out a couple months back)

so i guess if you did get stuck on having to code there would've been someone to get you out of that pickle pretty quickly :p

when im on leave during October i'll give it another go again since i still havent managed to get my original key erased yet for coding with my fis cluster
 
only my car didn't let me do that!

i had to lock via the boot, not the door (don't ask me why?!) but that seemed to solve all of my woes! Whereas locking with my doors the indicators would not indicate that the fob matching process was under way.

...and i have 2 cars S3's at the moment hence the 5 sets! lol
 
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when im on leave during October i'll give it another go again since i still havent managed to get my original key erased yet for coding with my fis cluster
do you have a VCDS cable or access to one?

i was doing my keys while i was in the central locking module with block 003 showing me if the key presses were being registered
 
do you have a VCDS cable or access to one?

i was doing my keys while i was in the central locking module with block 003 showing me if the key presses were being registered

yes, i have vcds
 
nice!

so yeah you want to log in and go int the central locking module

open up block 003, this should get you to the screen where it shows you how many keys are coded in (2nd field) and the last field will show you when buttons on the remote are being pressed (the 0 will change to a 1 if it's registering)

Screen Shot 2016 07 25 at 221517


This is where proceeded like so
- working key in ignition (window wound down just in case), and turn car on but not engine start
- go outside and lock the car via the boot
- head back over to the driver's side so i can see the screen

TO START FRESH (delete all coded remotes) - if you want to add remotes just skip to the next bit

– On remote unit, press “Open” button 5 times in one-second intervals.

A short horn signal will sound (on mine the blinkers would flash and on VCDS field 4 would change with a "1" with each button press. I didn't get a horn sound)

– Then WAIT 6 seconds, press “Open” button once to activate

(This is where i got the horn sound)

Memory is now erased, and the central locking system can no longer be operated by the remote unit.

Data in field 2 should read 0000

– Switch ignition off.

As many as 4 new remote units can now be coded

Coding remotes for central locking/remote window up or down


– Switch ignition on; leave key in ignition.
– Go outside and lock the car via the boot
– Head over to where you can see the screen
– On remote unit, press “Open” button once. A short horn signal will sound (again, i only had blinkers and field 4 indicate the button presses being registered.)
Note:
– The “Open” button is pressed once for programming the first / a single, remote
– When programming additional remote units for the second, third or fourth memory addresses, press the “Open” button two,
three or four times, in one-second intervals (blinkers will confirm the presses are registered.)
– Example: press the “Open” button once, wait 1 second, then press once again to program the second remote unit.
After 6 seconds, press “Open” button once to activate the coding process.

The remote unit will now be coded, and it can be used to unlock the central locking system.
– Field 2 should now read "0001" indicating that remote is in position 1

– Switch ignition off.
– Repeat process for the additional keys

Note:
The key must be removed from ignition before the remote unit can be used to lock the vehicle.
The coding process can be repeated up to 4 times for additional remote units. In between each remote unit coding, the ignition must be switched off.

I really don't understand why this method didn't work for me when locking with the front door as per ALL other guides online but i've tried on both cars and erased then recoded all keys just to test the theory and it worked for me both times.
 
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