Stage 2+ parts required

JamesMadog

JamesMadog

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Hi all im looking to get my 2010 S3 8P3 to stage 2+, im already at stage 1 but think its time to uprate Ive chosen the exhaust (BCS powervalve) now im looking to get the supporting parts such as high pressure fuel pump, uprated clutch and flywheel.. Can any of the sponsors on here provide me with a quote for both and maybe a special price or discount for being a member? Also any advice on what parts to get and where i could get them from would be be greatly appreciated, thanks
 
What make of software are you running at the moment, do you want to stay with it? Roughly where are you located in the UK or are you prepared to travel?
 
Im running a custom map at the moment which i had done by Unicorn motor developments, ive had no issue's with it and Rick's after care has been second to none.. Yeah im prepared to travel
 
JamesMadog said:
Im running a custom map at the moment which i had done by Unicorn motor developments, ive had no issue's with it and Rick's after care has been second to none.. Yeah im prepared to travel
Click to expand...

In that case you're already in the best hands available, so continue to get your mapping services done through Rick.

The BCS Powervalve system is the best exhaust available for the S3 8P, so good choice there. Contact BCS Nige on here and he'll be able to sort you out, I believe he offers a forum discount as well.

TSR Performance do both the Autotech HPFP internals or the Loba HPFP unit, both work well and will do what's required fine no problems. Where the Autotech is just internals (cheaper) rather than a whole unit, then make sure it is setup by someone competent in a clean environment.

The Sachs Organic Clutch & LUK DMF is the most popular and cheapest clutch & flywheel combo used for stage 2+, you can also get a Spec stage 2+/3+ clutch however these are SMF which are louder at idle but have higher torque ratings (so depends how far you want to go in the future i.e. bigger turbo etc). TSR Performance do the Sachs & LUK and they're a site sponsor on here of which offer discount as well if I remember correctly, AMD Tuning in Essex can source you a Spec clutch if you go down this route.

The only other thing I'd recommend getting for stage 2+ is an RS4 Fuel Pressure Return Valve, these are £50 from AwesomeGTI and can help eliminate a flatspot around 5,000rpm on aggressive maps.

Whilst these next things aren't required, they're definitely beneficial to get done as well either before or after the map:
  • Front & Rear Anti Roll Bars (H&R)
  • Anti Lift Kit (Whiteline)
  • Bigger Brakes (TTRS/Yellow Speed)
  • Uprated Intercooler (Pro Alloy/Wagner)
 
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That's a good write up.
I would like to ad that if you go smf setup to check your input shaft for play. Some of us have issue with those setups some don't it's really hit and miss. Depending on gearbox you could put shims to reduce the play of input shaft. 02m seems to have solution with oem parts (shim and cap) while 02q has two types and shim should help but it's not as straight fix as with 02m gearbox. Also nothing leaves stock has a shim setup for release bearing that many people on other forums use and they reported fixing issues.
I'm yet to tackle that issue as i have issues with dissenganging in 1 and 2, and also issue with fast shift at redline. Failing that, the option is to send the input shaft to brotek to extend it and ad a pilot bearing.
I've done a lot of reading lately about this issue and possible solutions..
 
The Helix clutch is also well thought of. This can work out cheaper than the Sachs.
As you are in Stockport for software and St Helens for your exhaust, Awesome may be able to help you out. They fitted my RS4 fuel valve. There have been good reports about AKS tuning over in Bedford. They can do everything you need but as said already, stick with unicorn for your software upgrade. Most places do not charge too much to go stage 1 to 2 if you have had stage 1 from them already.
So you will need an intake and there is lots of choice here. Also the HPFP, I have a Loba, more expensive than the Autotech internals but it comes ready assembled. Any dirt on self assembly will ruin the Autotech.
I have NGK iridium plugs rather than standard VAG. People may laugh but I have genuine R8 coil packs. It certainly ticks over more smoothly with them and they appeared to improve pick up from low revs as I am at APR stage 2+. Beware that not all for sale are genuine Audi even though eBay adverts say they are. Again, AKS sell the genuine items with proper part numbers on for the same price as generic red top coil packs.
If you want to save some cash, you may find that you only need the downpipe and not a whole exhaust. The downpipe is the most restrictive part of the system. See what unicorn say about this and let us know.
 
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HHS3 said:
In that case you're already in the best hands available, so continue to get your mapping services done through Rick.

The BCS Powervalve system is the best exhaust available for the S3 8P, so good choice there. Contact BCS Nige on here and he'll be able to sort you out, I believe he offers a forum discount as well.

TSR Performance do both the Autotech HPFP internals or the Loba HPFP unit, both work well and will do what's required fine no problems. Where the Autotech is just internals (cheaper) rather than a whole unit, then make sure it is setup by someone competent in a clean environment.

The Sachs Organic Clutch & LUK DMF is the most popular and cheapest clutch & flywheel combo used for stage 2+, you can also get a Spec stage 2+/3+ clutch however these are SMF which are louder at idle but have higher torque ratings (so depends how far you want to go in the future i.e. bigger turbo etc). TSR Performance do the Sachs & LUK and they're a site sponsor on here of which offer discount as well if I remember correctly, AMD Tuning in Essex can source you a Spec clutch if you go down this route.

The only other thing I'd recommend getting for stage 2+ is an RS4 Fuel Pressure Return Valve, these are £50 from AwesomeGTI and can help eliminate a flatspot around 5,000rpm on aggressive maps.

Whilst these next things aren't required, they're definitely beneficial to get done as well either before or after the map:
  • Front & Rear Anti Roll Bars (H&R)
  • Anti Lift Kit (Whiteline)
  • Bigger Brakes (TTRS/Yellow Speed)
  • Uprated Intercooler (Pro Alloy/Wagner)
Click to expand...
If money was no object I'd replace the Whiteline with the full SuperPro front alloy arms with their integrated ALK and matching adjustable ball joints.
 
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JamesMadog said:
Hi all im looking to get my 2010 S3 8P3 to stage 2+, im already at stage 1 but think its time to uprate Ive chosen the exhaust (BCS powervalve) now im looking to get the supporting parts such as high pressure fuel pump, uprated clutch and flywheel.. Can any of the sponsors on here provide me with a quote for both and maybe a special price or discount for being a member? Also any advice on what parts to get and where i could get them from would be be greatly appreciated, thanks
Click to expand...

Hi James.

You've got some very good advice from everyone above.

My advice will obviously be my own...so here goes.

Stick with Rick as far as you possibly can,as he will not let you down,and has a very good reputation here.

I advised either the Loba or Autotech HPFP,but with the proviso that the Autotech requires some skill,and a very clean environment to build in,but having said that,mine is still going strong after 70k miles.

Clutches are almost like brakes in terms of what people like and dislike,but for me it came down to this....a paddle type clutch can be a pig to use around town,so avoid if you can.
The Sachs organic is fine,as would the Helix organic,but avoid them if you do drag runs etc,when the Spec Stg3+ is a far more robust choice,and will take whatever you throw at it.

You're already going with a BCS exhaust,which would be my advice.....Nige and Dave at BCS are excellent,and very helpful,and we've just been discussing how to adapt the Nortech down pipe on mine to a new 90mm custom build.
I think their attention to detail is superb.

You don't need new coil packs unless the old ones are on their way out,but new,stock plugs are worth fitting,as a further remap will expose any aging there.
prt57 knows my views on R8 coil packs,and I'm not having a dig,but improvements after swapping to those will be down to the originals getting tired.
Put another way,at 80k miles,mine is still on the original packs,and hitting 550-600+bhp.
Avoid expensive stuff like Okada coil packs.

Don't forget suspension and brakes if you haven't already done those,as I found the S3 was really marginal on stock brakes at those levels.
 
S3Alex said:
Hi James.

You've got some very good advice from everyone above.

My advice will obviously be my own...so here goes.

Stick with Rick as far as you possibly can,as he will not let you down,and has a very good reputation here.

I advised either the Loba or Autotech HPFP,but with the proviso that the Autotech requires some skill,and a very clean environment to build in,but having said that,mine is still going strong after 70k miles.

Clutches are almost like brakes in terms of what people like and dislike,but for me it came down to this....a paddle type clutch can be a pig to use around town,so avoid if you can.
The Sachs organic is fine,as would the Helix organic,but avoid them if you do drag runs etc,when the Spec Stg3+ is a far more robust choice,and will take whatever you throw at it.

You're already going with a BCS exhaust,which would be my advice.....Nige and Dave at BCS are excellent,and very helpful,and we've just been discussing how to adapt the Nortech down pipe on mine to a new 90mm custom build.
I think their attention to detail is superb.

You don't need new coil packs unless the old ones are on their way out,but new,stock plugs are worth fitting,as a further remap will expose any aging there.
prt57 knows my views on R8 coil packs,and I'm not having a dig,but improvements after swapping to those will be down to the originals getting tired.
Put another way,at 80k miles,mine is still on the original packs,and hitting 550-600+bhp.
Avoid expensive stuff like Okada coil packs.

Don't forget suspension and brakes if you haven't already done those,as I found the S3 was really marginal on stock brakes at those levels.
Click to expand...
Agree with Alex I'd choose better plugs over the coil pack. NGK but I prefer Denso - which I change every 6 months ...
 
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Thanks all for your comments, ive got some great idea's on parts so thanks! I recently changed the coilpacks about 2 months ago. Ive also already got the revo CAI and uprated the pcv valve and the diverter valve so i think i have the basics covered. Had a great conversation with Nige at BCS today and his attention to detail just over the phone fills me with confidence, booked in there on the 3rd August for full BCS powervalve and 200 cell sports cat, safe to say thanks for all your asvice
 
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A little note on spark plugs - I've been talking to Andy at Storm Developments about my recent engine problems and he recommended current stock R8 plugs by NGK as one of the upgrades that are going in rather than the usual cooler-running plug upgrades. The reason is that they run just as cool as the normal NGK upgrades, but also have some kind of self-cleaning tip design, which reduces plug fouling. I'm going to give them a go.

Sent from a mobile device, please forgive typos :)
 
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leshkin said:
I've been talking to Andy at Storm Developments about my recent engine problems and he recommended current stock R8 plugs by NGK
Click to expand...

Have you got a part number or link to the correct set of NGK R8 spark plugs please? I've just had some new S3 spark plugs put in which will suffice for when I go stage 2 next week, however I want to be fully prepared for when stage 2+ comes :grin:
 
HHS3 said:
Have you got a part number or link to the correct set of NGK R8 spark plugs please? I've just had some new S3 spark plugs put in which will suffice for when I go stage 2 next week, however I want to be fully prepared for when stage 2+ comes :grin:
Click to expand...
Not to hand, sorry. Still at the beach with crappy WiFi at the moment :) They are stock R8 ones though, so you can google the exact part.

Edit: here you go matey

http://www.ngkntk.co.uk/index.php/oe-success/audi-2/


Sent from a mobile device, please forgive typos :)
 
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leshkin said:
Not to hand, sorry. Still at the beach with crappy WiFi at the moment :) They are stock R8 ones though, so you can google the exact part.

Edit: here you go matey

http://www.ngkntk.co.uk/index.php/oe-success/audi-2/
Click to expand...

Thanks leshkin. Awkward thing is I had that page up but only scan read it and didn't see an Audi part number, not realising that the NGK part number was hidden (in plain sight!) on there: PFR7W-T, this is Audi part number 101 905 621 C for reference.

Enjoy the beach, cheers!
 
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