Just got in from a road trip

S4_dan

S4_dan

Fire up the Quattro!
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Somewhere in the Howardian Hills!
Finished work at 20.40hrs and found a car on Gumtree so I bought it.

Is a 2000 W Reg A4 1.9tdi 110bhp Avant SE in purple.

It's a bit of a dog. Lacquer peel and few rust spots. Couple of dints.

164k miles on the clock. Previous mot history backs this up for the last few years. Cambelt done at 122k sometime in 2011.

Car is using water. And leaking oil. Advertised as water pump failing cos cooling fans come on after 30 miles of driving.

Water is leaking from the pipe that fixes to the right side of the head. Oil is dripping onto the block and then the floor from the oil filter housing area.

Central locking defunct. No indication on dash that any front door is open.

Cv joint clicking.

But for £225 with test until mid August, I'm happy.

Oh, concert radio is in SAFE mode.
Rear view mirror has been replaced with a very small plastic mirror.

Starts and seems to drive ok. Only done 1st and 2nd gears. Engine sounds sweet.

So here's to some fun.

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Dan
 
115pd engine? They have head gasket issues I think think. Like that colour though, bit of elbow grease will have it sorted right out
 
110bhp AVG engine.

Had VCDS on her just now. Engine faults came up as two relating to oil sensor, both short to ground. If that's in the oil filter housing then likely it's the oil leak causing that one.

Central locking pump runs then stops. Removed the pump and opened up to find NO IMPELLER! Not even bits of one. Looking closely, it's been opened before. I did find half heartedly put back in its rubber sleeve and dumped in boot corner. So i need a 'P' central locking pump.
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First and foremost though is to sort the oil leak and water loss/over heating issue. I'm hoping it's just the leak from here I've found....
20160519 080938


Think I will remove that part and reseal it. Same seal as coolant temp sensor according to vagcat? I have a few of those spare. And I will use a gasket sealer too for good measure.

Timing belt kit and waterpump along with a flush too.

Need to get the car onto the ramps to check the oil leak for certain.
 
Ok, so the car has issues. electrical issues. Last night, no door open on dash, no interior lights only driver footwell when driver door opened. Windows worked fine.

This morning, door open on the dash working. Great!

Just been to move the car and now I have an ABS light on, no windows work, no drivers door open on dash, no lights, not even drivers footwell.

***.

Anyway, I think the HG has gone. It's forcing water out of the CTS seal. No oil in coolant but the coolant pipes are rock hard after a short drive. I'll pull the thermostat first and run without one to see if that alleviates the pressure in the pipes. If not, head off for an inspection.

Oil leak is terrible. I think it's coupled with coolant running down the block, passed the oil filter housing (where I think the leak is) and dripping off.

Steering wheel turns a quarter to the right when i put my foot down? Bizarre. Knocking from the rear somewhere. Rear bearing R.A.F. (I have one somewhere) Handbrake a mile high when on. Rear discs are really thin and pads are almost not existent.

So, a bit of work cut out for me but hopefully a couple of weeks and will be right again.
 
windows and interior lights are all related to the CL pump. It signals the Windows to operate when the car is unlocked, and it runs the interior lighting.

ABS light will need a scan to see why its on.

If there has been oil leaking on that coolant flange the seals are known to dissolve. Dads car has a leaking rocker gasket and it killed the seals in that flange. Whole area was clagged with oil and the seal was just like mush. I'd replace the seals and fit a new plastic flange (they crack) and see how it goes. But yes, it might well be the head gasket.

Steering turning sounds like a seriously knackered balljoint or control arm or something?
 
Well I did have the CL Pump connected first time but removed when I moved the car, so that explains that. Cheers.

The water leak is above the oil leak. Oil is leaking from filter housing area. Lass did say that it has just had an oil service? Will get it on the ramps. Rocker gasket actually seems good on this one.

Yeah I'll check the arms once engine is running without leaks. She did seem underpowered.

It's the pressurised coolant pipes that's bothering me. I'm hoping it's gasket failure as opposed to porous head syndrome.
 
Right I've had a play with the car this morning. Started her up and looked for the oil leak. It's coming from the top seal on the oil cooler. It's watered down oil so I'm guessing the cooler has failed due to the excessive pressure in the cooling system.

With coolant cap off, the coolant is a little frothy but no oil present. Put cap on and coolant hoses go hard almost instantly! Both top and bottom hoses.

Removed the Thermostat and that's brand new. As is the oil filter.

Drained the coolant system and it was full of brass filings. Tell tale sign of Radweld or similar being used prior to me getting it.

So what else to do? I whipped the head off. Clearly it has had some work before as head bolts were smothered with copper grease. There also some dents/marks within the head looking like cambelt failure at some point earlier on in life.

Headgasket looks old and appears to be fine. No evidence of blowing anywhere and the cylinder head face and block face also suggest the same.

So that leaves the head itself or the block or something else?

Separately, the air con radiator has taken a big hit at somepoint. Not sure if it's leaked out gases or not as didn't try before pulling the head off.

Is it a big job to remove the air con system? Not too fussed about it anyway. More weight to the car....

So what's my next step guys?

Have the head pressure checked and skimmed maybe?

Does anyone have a known working AFN/AGV Head?

Also, oil coolers, where would be the best place to obtain a new replacement?

Cheers.
 
maybe the bolts werent torqued properly?

Pressure test the head and check for flatness and if its all good then all you can do is refit and see what happens.

the oil cooler can be removed and bypassed temporarily i believe.
 
aragorn said:
maybe the bolts werent torqued properly?

Pressure test the head and check for flatness and if its all good then all you can do is refit and see what happens.

the oil cooler can be removed and bypassed temporarily i believe.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't the headgasket of shown that the bolts weren't tight by watermarks? The gasket is good.

I'm hoping it is the head that is cracked. I've emailed a company in York about prices etc.

Cheers.
 
the gasket was leaking compression into the water ways, so not neccesarily are you going to have seen water marks...
 
It's the head. As soon as the engineer saw the head, he pointed straight to a 'burnt' part. I couldn't see it, until he put a rule against it. He obviously knows his heads!

So that's good news. He will pressure test it anyway just in case, remove cam and valves and then skim it. Should be ready late wednesday or early thursday all being well.

This head has had some work done previously. I'm just hoping they didn't skim it otherwise the engineer won't be able to skim it twice? will he? It already has a 3 hole HG on it. The thickest available.
 
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Yeah, I'm aware that's what Audi state. The head on the Derv shed has been skimmed before and that runs fine. As long as it's a light skim, there shouldn't be any issues.....

Unless it's been done before.....
 
Head has been skimmed. However they found that upon removing the valves, the valve guides are well worn! Clearly not replaced when the head was repaired before.

So should be back to me tomorrow afternoon all being well.
 
Got the head back today. They've done a great job.

Got most of it pieced back together.

Carparts4less have sent me an incorrect oil cooler. Great, was hoping to have her running tonight. Never mind. I'll bypass the oil coolant for the time being.

Is there really.that much need for an oil cooler, when.m the AFN engined A4 we have doesn't have an oil cooler fitted and that's fine??
 

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the oil cooler serves two roles, it cools the oil down under heavy load, but it also warms the oil up when the engines started, getting it up to operating temperature faster.

As a temporary test without one it wont cause any problems though, but you'll need to find the correct shorter threaded thing that screws into the filter housing.
 
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Well, she is all (engine etc, bumper needs fitting) back together.

Cranked and bled the fuel lines to the injectors. Fired up nicely.

No oil or water leaks.

No pressurising of cooling system.

There was an intermittent squeal from cam pulley area. Turned out to be the backing plate vibrating and catching the pulley. Now sorted.

Quick drive, pulls ok but not as good a Derv shed does. Need to check fuel pump timing on vcds.

Still does the steering wheel turn thing. Need to Jack it up and check it all over.

Also got some discs and pads for the rear to fit. Need some bearings and races for those.

Need to sort central locking pump out. Well, source a replacement 'P' suffix pump.

Then she is usable. Oh, need to drain some water when she has cooled down and fill with g12++ coolant. Just used water for testing for leaks.
 
Well some parts arrived yesterday. Shame the rear shocks don't look as easy as those on the B6 platform to do!

Some cheap parts.....
 

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OK, so from the car driving like some big yank saloon, with mega bounce on the rear to now being parked up with its **** end on axle stands.

Slow progress is being made. Mainly due to the issue with sourcing the correct shock absorbers.

I have managed to remove both rear struts, rear calipers, discs and pads.

Rear axle bushes need replacing as they are worn so I've got some Lemforder ones coming tomorrow.

How low can you go?
20160606 141507

I forgot to take a pic of the bare pads once they were off. The N/S rear pads were very meaty. (Why would you only replace one side?!) Anyway a full set of Pagid standard discs and pads are now fitted to the O/S.

Fitted new bearing races and bearing into the discs. Cheated by using two large sockets for pressing in the races.

Nearside disc is fitted is one of the sliders in the carrier was seized in so that was dropped off at a garage to see if they can remove it. Got a new slider set on order.

I can't get my head around the boot lock. The boot buttons don't work the solenoid to open. So I use the key to open the boot. Put the key in and turn to the left to open the boot and it locks the car. Turn the key to the right to deadlock the boot and it unlocks the car. Seems the switches are working the opposite way around?

Also, drivers door with the key will unlock all doors but it will only lock the drivers door. I have to press the lock button on door trim then close driver door and lock that one with the key.

As you can tell, I have a fair bit of work to do with this one. So much for it being a cheap workhorse. If things should work, then I like them to work properly. Hate niggles on cars.

I've got an almost complete set of new front control Arms (Missing one tie rod end and two upper arms) from Gumtree for next to nothing. They are probably cheap eBay items but they'll do this car for now.

I've been signed off work with an inflamed lower back lumbar so work will be very slow now until my back is in better shape. Gutted.

Now it's time to enjoy the sunshine before the rain comes and sets itself in.
 
facelift B5's act somewhat oddly when using the key to open and close them. Its intended you use the remote.

For instance, unlocking the car with the key will only open the drivers door, and the alarm will go off.

The boot buttons dont directly trigger the solenoid. The buttons tell the CL pump you want to open the boot, and the CL pump fires the solenoids.

Does it maybe have the wrong pump in it?
 
It had a "P" suffix pump in it but the alarm used to go off randomly. It now has a non-remote pump fitted from out 1997 A4. Purely for the central locking operation.

There wasn't and still isn't any siren when the indicators are flashing.

I can open drivers door without alarm being triggered. But opening the boot alone triggers the alarm.

The issue with the P suffix pump is the impeller is missing.

I don't think the motor and impeller from the no suffix pump is the same fitment as the P suffix?
 
yeh i'm surprised that works at all, quite a few differences between FL and PFL pumps.

P suffix doesnt seem correct for a facelift car either, it should be 8D0862257E, or maybe 8D0862257

Whats the full part number of your P pump, as i cant find anything P on etka.
 
It wouldn't surprise me if the P suffix is the wrong pump. Everything else is wrong with the Purple shed.

Full part number is 8LO 862 257 P.

So should it be an E suffix pump in there?
 
Some more bits arrived today...
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Some CORRECT Bilstein B4 shocks arrived at last!!

(It's not letting me upload any more pics)

:-(
 
Finally the correct shocks arrived....

(Won't let me upload any more pics for some reason)

Got the springs fitted to the shocks. Both the same length etc and buttoned up and on the car.

Now the car sits about 8mm lower on the o/s compared to the n/s? Very bizarre.

Unless it's something to do with the front springs as it leans a bit higher on n/s front?

Replaced both rear axle bushes with Lemforder parts.

The springs only fitted one way, and not the part number writing is upside down.

Do the fronts fit with the writing the correct way round? If so, how will that affect the suspension as there are tighter coils at one of the spring, which will be the opposite way around to the rears?
 
audi upgrades
Oh I need to adjust the handbrake travel too. It's upto the highest point. Doesn't grab that much either on the pads/disc. Can still drive away with some resistance.

Any ideas on how to adjust that?
 
the handbrake should be self adjusting, you need to drive the car and get the rear brakes bedded in before trying anything though.

and yes, if the NSF is raised up, weight is transferred to the OSR which will sit lower.
 
So, after a weekend away with the family, it's time to get back to the purple shed.

I fitted the replacement CLP with the 'E' suffix as per above.

Now my boot button works. Well, one side does.

I still can't lock all doors from drivers door.

Plus my laptop is away for repair so I can't play with vcds to program the remote key.

How hard is it to dismantle drivers lock to fix the microswitch?

O/s/R electric windows still doesn't work. Wiring between the door and body is fine so must be the motor.

Still no siren when the alarm is activated. Need to source and check the siren over.

I will start on the front suspension and control Arms next week. More fun and games.
 
try the buttons inside the drivers door (with the door shut) and see if it locks and unlocks. If so, its probably a faulty microswitch on the lock? Doesnt really matter though does it? Assuming you can code the remotes using the switches inside, maybe you need to use the switches outside :/

Sirens are all broken at this stage, no-one ever replaces them, and they corrode inside.
 
Switch inside does lock the car. That's how I currently lock the rest of the car and close drivers door and car is locked. So must be microswitch in door.

I'll try remote programming tomorrow to see if that works.
 
Programming the remote requires you to lock the door while the ignition is on. I just hope that the car will respond to you locking it using the inside button rather than the key!
 
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