S4_Dan's TQS thread -Questions and mods

S4_dan

Fire up the Quattro!
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Guys,

It's been bugging me since the day I bought it. When changing gear up or down, as soon as I depress the clutch the revs have for what feels like a second (but most probably like half a second) which makes the car jerk when I release the clutch unless I do it slowly so the revs have dropped.

Is this a sticky throttle body or something more sinister?

I have chance of a set of genuine S8 Avus 18" wheels. I'm don't know the ET off the top of my head. Would these wheels fit ok and what size tyres would be best on these?

Cheers,

Dan
 
Could be the throttle cable? I've had them go stiff before. Or its maybe just the good old "drivetrain shunt" that seems to plague quattro cars, which is caused by slack in the driveline. Various causes including mounts, CV joints, and the diffs themselves.

The S8 wheels should fit fine, they are ET47, so could maybe do with some spacing, depends how you like them to sit. 225/40r18 tyres are what you'll need.
 
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Cheers Kev.

How would the drivetrain hold the revs between gearchange? The pedal seems fine, and now I've got used to driving a petrol again, I can get it to move swiftly when needed, so I'm much happier with how it performs now, it's just this 'rev holding' when depressing the clutch! Hate that. lol.

Is fitting a new cable a mammoth task or relatively easy?

I like the stance of the current wheels (just don't like those wheels. lol), nice and flush almost with the arches so would be looking to keep it similar to how it is now. I will take some dirty pictures a bit later this morning. The farmers were out in force yesterday muck spreading so the roads were just sheer mud for miles. :-(

Dan
 
The drivetrain doesnt cause it to hold revs, it causes the jerk/shunt when re-engaging the clutch. A faulty clutch switch can cause the rev-holding on later cars, but the cable throttle ones dont have one. Any fault codes? remember no EML on these cars so you need to scan for them. I guess check for vacuum leaks or similar?

Throttle cable is pretty easy to change, just a bit of upside-down in the footwell to contend with.

You'll need to see what offset your running on the existing wheels i guess.

Mine runs 18x7.5" wheels at ET53, with 20mm spacers on the back and 12mm up front. Giving about ET33 rear and ET41 front, which sits pretty flush, but i've seen folk run more. Quattros rear wheels always seem to sit in a bit, so you end up needing more spacing out back.
 
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I don't have a jerk/shunt. I have the surge because the revs are little higher than they should be for gear/speed. Drivetrain feels nice and solid. No juddering on reverse either which is nice! :)

Some pics of the current wheels spacing:

N/S/R


N/S/R


O/S/R


O/S/F top view (Wheel isn't parked straight! lol)


Dan
 
Does anyone elses boot lid catch on their bodywork? With the lid closed it's sits squarely, but when I open it it goes to the left and then centres again, causing a rub to the bodywork here:


Seems bizarre. I will treat that bit of rust with a kit I've just ordered.
 
Bought some goodies to fit;

I know there are more 'oem' looking gauges but I like this style myself. It's very similar to the Saab 900 Turbo dials.


Pressed plates:


Plate holders (Not sure if these will fit the front bumper recess?)
 
The wheels certainly look quite far out, a bit unusual for OEM wheels. Need to whip one off and see what fitment it is!
 
Had a quote from Big Fish Tuning for a custom remap with the ECU out jobby and rolling road ............................................ £450!!!
Wowchers. Wasn't expecting it to be so much. I know it's a fully custom map and not an off the shelf map but still....

He'll do OBD fully custom remaps for £199. SO I feel cheated, just like all you other AJL engined owners! lol.

What is my best route of action?

I did look at using a different, flashable ECU but I'd like to keep my immo working, and don't have my immo code/pin.

Is there anywhere else (other than Superchips - but's thats a generic map) that can do ECU out remaps?

Or is a generic map ok with only an exhaust system mod? I may look at FMIC in the future but just after a little better power flow from the car at the moment.

Cheers.
 
No point going for custom map with only upgraded exhaust.
 
Are the generic ones any good?

IS the ECU swap and easier to find someone who will flash it? What are the costs of doing it this way?

Cheers.
 
Definitely easier to swap the ecu for flashable. Not many want to touch ours from what I gathered.
 
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I assume it might be a cheaper route as well. A3 ecus are around £30 and probably map will be cheaper this way as well.
 
Emailed Rick and got a response late last night. Here is his reply:

Hi Dan,


The immo data should be able to be transferred to the AGU flash able ECU.Using your existing ECU we'd have to solder sockets in and fit flashable chips, but it's still then only flashable on the bench which makes tuning take longer.


Prices are:


Map an AGU flashable ECU with immo disabled - £300

Map an AGU flashable ECU with immo working £400

Map your existing ECU after fitting flashable chips and sockets - £400


Thanks, Rick


Hmmmm, what to do?

Dan
 
It really is a question if you want immo or not.
 
AGU ECU makes sense.

I couldnt get mine to pair with the TQS cluster, the cluster said it had paired and the IMMO light went out, but the ECU would still cut the engine off.

If rick can get it paired up by manually copying the immo data then excellent.

I think the one saving grace is that no-one tries to steal cars the "old way" any more, because cars have been immoblised since the mid 90's. They either nick the keys, or they come equipped with the hardware to bypass the immobiliser anyway.
 
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The plate holders won't fit the recess as I have some on mine and they are just a bit wider that the recess
 
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