2.0 TDI oil pump / balance shaft failure?

Cheers, is it possible, should the hex key need changing just to change that rather than buying and installing the whole kit 9?
 
This sounds better news than most of what I've read, can I just drop the sump a swap the shafts over, do you know if the sump is easy to take off or does it involve engine mounts and moving lots of stuff out of the way?
Thanks muchly for the advice, it is very appreciated.
 
Hairy toed eagle said:
Hi there, I can see this is written quite some time ago but did you ever show the results to your survey? I would be interested to see.

Thanks
Click to expand...
There were so few people that participated it wasn't worth showing the results. I've forgotten my log in details so couldn't even go back to look now. If I manage to fluke my password I'll come back to you
 
Hairy toed eagle said:
This sounds better news than most of what I've read, can I just drop the sump a swap the shafts over, do you know if the sump is easy to take off or does it involve engine mounts and moving lots of stuff out of the way?
Thanks muchly for the advice, it is very appreciated.
Click to expand...
I am not a mechanic matey but I have been told it's fairly easy to drop sump off but it's subframe off too and have been told it needs to be put back right otherwise it will affect tracking etc etc ,
That's why I would never tackle it myself I would rather pay say £300 supply the part and have the part changed for me
 
Here's a procedure I picked up on my online travels, haven't done the job myself but may be of help to someone;

Disconnect battery negative lead.
Slacken OSF wheel nuts.
Jack up car slightly to remove undershield and remove wheel and wheel arch liner.
Slacken auxiliary belt tensioner and lock off with suitable "pin" (allen key, drill bit or short handled screwdriver) and remove auxiliary belt noting its rotational direction.

Remove timing belt covers and crank pulley.
Drain oil.
Jack up higher and support with axle stands at suitable points to the rear of the subframe to allow room to work under engine.
Disconnect oil level sensor plug, remove sump, remove leftover silicone sealant from sump edge and crank carrier surfaces as you will need to reseal the sump for refitting - their is no sump gasket.

At this point you will see the balancer shaft unit bolted below the crank.
Lock cams and toothed crankshaft cog at TDC with appropriate locking tools.
This also locks the balancer drive cog on the back of the crank gear cog inside the sump area.
Support balancer unit and undo the 8 retaining bolts, if I remember rightly one of these is a long oil pump bolt and they are different sizes so use a piece of cardboard and pop them in the same positions on the cardboard noting that you are looking upwards at the balancer unit (renewal of the bolts is recommended as they are stretch type with additional angle stage tightening).
Wiggle the unit slightly and it should come away - it is HEAVY!!
Lower it carefully, it still has a lot of oil inside and remove from under the car.

Remove circlip from oil pump drive key hole (it's very small - renew it).
Drive key can be removed with a small magnet or by feeding it through from the balance shaft end.
Balancer unit is in two halves. Remove strainer pipe checking gauze is clear (clean pipe and gauze if necessary and renew pipe seal).
Undo retaining bolts again they may be different sizes and lift off top half leaving bottom half with balancer shafts in situ.
Shafts can be lifted out from bottom half of unit and gearing checked.
Replacement is usually no 2 shaft which has the drive key hole for the pump with a modified version (yours or exchange).
Clean visible oil channels on both halves and inspect shell bearings of balancer unit where shafts sit. Renew shells if worn or scored.

Apply thick oil or assembly lube to inside of shells and clean balance shaft journals.
When replacing a shaft ensure that the flat surface of the balance weight on each shaft sit level with each other (once their gear cogs have been reintroduced) in the bottom half of the balancer unit.
Apply assembly lube to balance shaft gear cogs.

Fit a new upgraded drive key of the correct length with retaining circlip.
Refitting is the reverse of removal noting that a special tool will be needed to retain the shafts in a specific position in the balance unit to align the drive gears and ensure they marry correctly before bolting the unit to the specific torque / angle settings.

A very small amount of backlash (backward rotation of the intermediate cog) should be present after refitting the unit.
This is necessary to avoid gear damage or excess wear.
You should have very slight rotational "play" for want of a better word when turning the lower gear cog against the intermediate one.
This is necessary to avoid gear damage or excess wear. Too tight against each other and the gear teeth will grind.

Seal sump with silicone sealant before refitting. Refit all other components removed applying correct torque settings.

CHECK: REMOVE ALL LOCKING TOOLS AND REFILL OIL!!

Rotate engine by hand a few turns to ensure free movement and no sticking of balancer unit gearing.

Reconnect battery and start up.
 
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Gazwould said:
I wonder where you got that from !
Click to expand...
Its wrong for the a4 anyway,
Its more for the b6 Passat or a3 transverse engines.
A4 os wheel nuts/wheel liner off = not needed you need to take the front end off or put in service position on the a4 and either undo engine mounting and lift engine a bit to take sump off or drop sub frame.
 
I do have an A3 so maybe more relevant to me but it does give a good idea of the work involved. I have done a timing belt on mine but to be honest I don't think I would tackle this myself and the above was what helped me to make this decision, so I for one am grateful for the info :)
 
does the balance shaft cause a vibration throughout the car whilst in drive mode and stationary and does it also make a grinding noise?
 
While on the topic of vibration, I get (and have done for the month I've owned the car) get vibration through the acelerator peddle, is this normal?
 
I think vibration through pedals is quite common on B7s - have seen it mentioned before on here. Severity depends on footwear etc. Non myself but have had new flywheel and engine mounts.
.
 
I had it on my B7 2.0 tdi BRE even after new flywheel and clutch. Even still had a vibration at around 1600 rpm when stationary but no faults found on injectors or anything. I took it as common on these as nothing had failed,
 
Help please!
Engine management I'd on and this strange noise from the top of the engine.
Any ideas what this is and what might be wrong. Short video showing the part and noise.



Cheers
 
Iv only had my avant a month so still trying to find out if it's had the oil pump done, 4 of the Audi garages in the service book have no record that just leaves a 'vw specialist' left! It's just touching 96k am I living on borrowed time haha?
 
Just sounds abit scary! Iv done a fair few jobs on cars but never a sump would I need a new seal or is it a mastic type of seal? Is there a guide anywhere? Fingers crossed it has been done spending money is already allocated on fun stuff haha
 
My old 2.0 BRE was never done only because I decided to px it for an allroad . I would never try to do this myself as its a lot of work. There are lots of cars out there that have never been done and lots that have , I would have only done it for peace of mind if I had kept her. The boys are avail from KMB parts and my local Indy was charging £330 to do it, he said that they can be a pig to do sometimes as they gotta sweat the old shaft out. I believe there is no gasket on the sump just sealant.
My sons mate has just bought my old A4 off the dealer I px it with and he is having the shaft done this week just for peace of mind. The car has done 128k
 
I might try my luck for abit then, before I get it remapped il get it done
 
Well my mate had his changed today and a good job too it looks like only just in time &120 K on a B7 2.0 tdi BRE.
See the rounding of the hex !

Image
 
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So I've just bought an '06 B7 2.0 TDi BLB. It's only done 69K from new with full (non Audi) dealer history. The engine's dead quiet on it and it all sounds. good. I wondered if anyone had a conclusion on what should be done to safeguard the engine from this rubbish.

By the way, I have a licenced copy of ETKA here with working VIN number lookup and when you go into the page for the oil pump / balancer, ETK A flashes a warning to us to convert from chain to cog driven balancer shaft......
 
I would say to safeguard engine oil pump failure it's needs to be done. There is no warning prior to these going only when the red oil pressure light comes on then it's too late damage done.
Hope this helps,

Si

Ps for the parts I would recommend using KMB. Parts direct them an Indy to do it at a cost of around £330
 
There is a better chain tensioner I believe and usual modified remanufactured balancer shaft and longer harder 100mm hex key .
 
That's some amount reading back a few going back a few years, i didn't read everything (take days) but mine's the blb lump too and I've also had the pump upgrade, i didn't pay for it, the guy before me did and only last june..

Here's a copy of the main bit of the reciept for £1700 for the gear driven pump which included a flywheel

15wbclu.jpg
[/IMG]

What i'd like to know is it's seemingly been upgraded to a 7 plate clutch (as seen in the dash when in "manual" mode but if these work on a steel belt and pulleys system i take the 7 speed idea is software related in the gearbox ecu to trick me into thinking that.


Also (this really pi55es me off after having receipts for that...glad i didn't pay!) there's still a bad rattle coming from i think's the top end i'll get a vid/sound clip of it later.....great cars badly let down by a sh1t engine (well oil pump design) and gearbox (namely cvt)
 
Out of interest, at what point did this problem cease to be a problem? Or is it still a problem? I only ask as my old B6 needs changing and the B7 is one obvious choice, or a Passat, or a Seat. One of which I drove today and was very impressed with. Mind you, I also drove a V70 Volvo and might look at a Mondeo. Or a Skoda Superb. Some of which have VAG engines. Looking at 60/61 plated cars generally.
 
deutscheparts said:
So I've just bought an '06 B7 2.0 TDi BLB. It's only done 69K from new with full (non Audi) dealer history. The engine's dead quiet on it and it all sounds. good. I wondered if anyone had a conclusion on what should be done to safeguard the engine from this rubbish.

By the way, I have a licenced copy of ETKA here with working VIN number lookup and when you go into the page for the oil pump / balancer, ETK A flashes a warning to us to convert from chain to cog driven balancer shaft......
Click to expand...
Hi, I have just done that balancer shaft upgrade on a 2007 Audi a6 3.0 tdi at 105k and the oil pump drive was already worn out, it would not have taken any more than 10k to fail.
I also rebuilt a b6 a4 tdi engine due to oil pump failure which made the engine seize solid and the bearings on 3rd Conrod spun on the crank. As I could not be bothered to grind the BLB crank and still use the chain driven pump, I have found a good used late BRD lump with the later, sprocket driven oil pump/balancer drive and rebuilt the head with the old ancillaries. Everything runs sweet as a nut !
 
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Hi guys, been reading through this thread and a couple others on several sites. I can't figure out if I should be worried or not.

I have a 56 A4, with the 2.0tdi BRE engine, it has done 85k miles with okay service history (6 Longlife stamps, toothed belt at 60k).

I can't hear any unwanted noises from the engine, but I wouldn't know because this is my first diesel it always sounds noisy.

Should I be worried/start saving for a replacement/repair bill? Is there a way to check that doesn't cost much money.

Thanks.
 
Toblahoe said:
Hi guys, been reading through this thread and a couple others on several sites. I can't figure out if I should be worried or not.

I have a 56 A4, with the 2.0tdi BRE engine, it has done 85k miles with okay service history (6 Longlife stamps, toothed belt at 60k).

I can't hear any unwanted noises from the engine, but I wouldn't know because this is my first diesel it always sounds noisy.

Should I be worried/start saving for a replacement/repair bill? Is there a way to check that doesn't cost much money.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Yep defo 200% buy the kit for piece of mind m8

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
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Alright thanks guys, I don't make enough money to foot the bill straight away so it will take a few months, is there anything I can do now that may help prevent it from failing until then? I've already booked in a much needed oil change.

Also I do have 6 months warranty left through evans halshaw (who bought the car off) but won't this be classed as a wear and tear item?
 
It's £215 .

Maybe you could get them to fit it as it would be in their interest also for the engine and turbo not to be ruined through low oil pressure .

Oil change at same time as sump is dropped .
 
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