First time S3 8L owner.

OPENM2KE said:
Thanks guys I will be checking out the FAQs and guides etc and yes it is a guy. Y88 MKE is the reg going on in the next few days. Few plans so far:

1) new s3 boot badge £4.29
2) headlight restore kit £20
3) new front and rear aero wiper blades £6.51
4) alloy wheel refurb £200-£250
5) rear window tints £100
6) hammerite caliper paint 250ml £7.20
7) Solvol autosol for exhaust £3.75
8) new roof aerial base and antenna £10.23
9) new pollen filter £12.95
10) new oil dipstick £6.99

That's just a few things I need to do to get this car up to my standards and get it looking clean before I start doing other bits.

I have noticed and heard that it is a common fault for the centre panel of the dash speedo clocks to lose a few LEDs which mine has. Is there a fix or even easy fix for this problem? Could anyone point me in the right direction?

I could also do with a couple of the plastic engine bay cover clips, are these something I could maybe get from halfords?

Cheers guys

Mike
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I just used push fit plastic trim things from Halfords for like 99p, there is a posh set of all engine bay caps and bolts on ebay for about £7, But wont you simply take the engine cover off and put it in the shed - once you do the N249 delete you wont have a bracket anyway.

Is there a problem with the alloys? curbed etc? for £250 you could basically replace the whole wheels couldn't you?
 
Thanks again guys. From Doncaster if anyone fancies a meet? Stuart thanks for the hint on the plastic clips. As for the Alloa they are badly curbed and I'd love to see them looking like new again. N249 delete? I haven't read in to this yet? Forge blanking plate? I'm wanting a dump valve and turbo boost guage but can't find a decent pod / set up?? The reason I'm getting a new rear 'S3' badge is because the laquer has come off the 3 on mine.
 
OPENM2KE said:
Thanks again guys. From Doncaster if anyone fancies a meet? Stuart thanks for the hint on the plastic clips. As for the Alloa they are badly curbed and I'd love to see them looking like new again. N249 delete? I haven't read in to this yet? Forge blanking plate? I'm wanting a dump valve and turbo boost guage but can't find a decent pod / set up?? The reason I'm getting a new rear 'S3' badge is because the laquer has come off the 3 on mine.
Click to expand...
Check out the Yorkshire Region section. Usually have monthly meets and events.
If not, theres a few of us that meet your regular for drives, etc...

Standard DV is fine, however if you want some bling go for either Forge 007 or 008.... Nothing else
 
the "N249 delete" takes away a load of pipes and a container from above the rocker cover between the inlet manifold and the dump valve. it was the first thing I did and I am no expert.


From my understanding (as a beginner) the purpose of this "jungle" is to do with a sensor detecting an incident and opening the dump valve to drop the power, but if you have fly-by-wire the same mapping flag / event cuts the throttle which automatically opens the dump valve anyway.
the removal of this device reduces the potential leaks (apparently the DV is more responsive too - maybe in the head ;) ) and makes the engine bay much simpler.

Regarding the Dump Valve (again I am only a beginner) - your car already has one - people want a noisy turbo dump - but the experts say the car has more power and precision with the cheap original dump valve. I had a noisy Forge Splitter and a manual boost controller fitted when I bought my S3 a month or so ago and to be honest it was frowned upon - not because Forum Experts don't want chavvy modifications on this Future Classic but the parts are either rubbish or damaging. I still do have a CDA Airbox, which apparently even reduces power - one of the previous owners wasted a load of money on useless modifications.

I liked the mechanical clunk of the forge DV but the boost pressure is more reliable with the little plastic VAG DV.

Enjoy you S3 :)
 
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Wow. This is brilliant stuff I'm hearing guys. I love all the info. I think I'm seriously going to enjoy this car and like you say with the potential of this car becoming a 'future classic' I want to keep it as original and tidy as possible yet add my own little personal touches here and there. I was fortunate enough to own a BMW 320si homologation special a year ago but I got rid and downgraded to the fiesta to save some money for holidays and other things. Now I've got the S3 I feel I'm back on track. Can't wait to get involved in some meets in the near future
 
OPENM2KE said:
Here's me from yesterday literally a minute after purchase round the corner from the garage
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In relation to the centre led panel, mine comes and goes occasionally usually iffy on cold wet mornings, just switch it off ;) there is a thread on here about taking the circuit board and cleaning the connections, I have the feeling I would break more than I fix doing that one. :)
 
Hmm I may give that a try actually. I've nothing to lose really as I literally have barely any lcd showing anyway. Thanks for the tip.
 
Thanks mate and cheers for the link. I've just had a browse of their site. All seems good apart from the fact I'd be without my clock set for the time it takes them to repair. I suppose I could use a satnav for the time it took to guage my speed etc.
 
Not sure if the car will run without the clocks, I've never tried it.
 
Good point. I'm not sure either. Do they expect you to install a temporary set whilst you have your others repaired? I might give them a ring to find out a bit more information with regards to turn around time etc.
 
nah it won't work - the immobiliser is integrated into the cluster
 
Hey @OPENM2KE

Welcome to the forum car is looking clean and looks in good nick as well.

Clusterrepairsuk do offer a repair whilst you wait option, as I called them up asking the same thing, hope this helps
 
Ahh that's good to know then so I'm guessing it is a pretty quick process. I might book a day off work to go and have this done. Thanks
 
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Hence the axel stands and spare car reference.
I use mine occasionally for mpg but it is 28.7 if you get as far as removing the clocks then clean the LCD connectors yourself.
 
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Hi guys. My xenons look a bit white / yellow, I'm after some new bulbs if possible. If any of you could give me some advice on where and which bulbs to get please? Cheers. Also after some xenon style fog light bulbs if anyone can recommend any or know what type of bulb they are, thank you.

Mike
 
OPENM2KE said:
Hi guys. My xenons look a bit white / yellow, I'm after some new bulbs if possible. If any of you could give me some advice on where and which bulbs to get please? Cheers. Also after some xenon style fog light bulbs if anyone can recommend any or know what type of bulb they are, thank you.

Mike
Click to expand...
Speak to Trups (EM Tuning) on here...

He's supplied a large number on here with bulbs.

Xenon bulb is D2S type. Osram Nightbreakers imo are highly rated. The range of light is pretty awesome.
 
OPENM2KE said:
Hi guys. My xenons look a bit white / yellow, I'm after some new bulbs if possible. If any of you could give me some advice on where and which bulbs to get please? Cheers. Also after some xenon style fog light bulbs if anyone can recommend any or know what type of bulb they are, thank you.

Mike
Click to expand...

The stock D2S bulbs are either 4100k or 4300k, try going up to a 5 or 6k http://www.hids4u.co.uk/d2s-xenon-hid-bulbs/
 
audi upgrades
Got some new led side light bulbs too. These look fun to fit haha. I think I shall tackle these at the weekend.

I also have an aux adapted and leads. Does anyone have a guide on how to install this into the glovebox? I'd like to try and do it as neatly as possible.


Cheers
 
OPENM2KE said:
Got some new led side light bulbs too. These look fun to fit haha. I think I shall tackle these at the weekend.

I also have an aux adapted and leads. Does anyone have a guide on how to install this into the glovebox? I'd like to try and do it as neatly as possible.


Cheers
Click to expand...

you're going to have to remove the glovebox and centre console trim (which also means removing the trim under the steering wheel) - then you'll be able to choose where you wanna route the cable - plenty of options - just need to get all the trim off
 
You only need to drop the glove box if routing to that... no need to touch the drivers side anything

<tuffty/>
 
ayfreetee said:
Drive a few before you buy would be my advice, you may find you prefer a 225 version, does make a difference, particularly in mid range, condition and history are more important than miles IMO, you might find a car at 88k will be getting to that time when things need replacing, a higher miles car will probably have the work already done.
Click to expand...
Couldn’t agree with that more. I’ve just bought a pretty mint 53 plate that’s on 112k which has had loads of money spent on it at about the mileage the car you’re looking at is on.
Mine has had everything done tuning and handling that I would of done to it but it looks standard. Depends what you want really. Good luck from a fellow newb!
 
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