New purchase... B6 2.5tdi Quattro

Arrkon · Nov 3, 2015

Hey guys. Seem to be forum hopping haha.. First, B5. Then C5 Allroad.... Now here.

Just picked her up tonight. 116k, 52 plate v6 tdi auto Quattro. Few niggles, and the B6 is new ground for me... Open to your experiences.

1. Vibration when accelerating (but not when lifting off) and when sat at lights in "D/S"... Service the box?

2.Heater blower won't seem to direct the air where I want it (screen for example), failed servo?

3. Whistle when accelerating, assuming boost leak?

Anything else worth looking out for?

mattyb6 · Nov 3, 2015

The Heater problem is due to a little motor that moves the vent flap

There's 3 in total under the glovebox, they seize up and fail.

I just unplugged mine and pushed to flap to open lol

VagCabby · Nov 3, 2015

If you have VCDS test the motors with the glove box removed. A friends car had the issue of the air not going where he wanted, we check all the motors, wiring, everything was fine. Changed the climate control unit and that fixed the issue

Sandra · Nov 3, 2015

@AR-rkon any pics of the new car Rob?

x

Arrkon · Nov 3, 2015

Thanks for the replies guys, will pop the glovebox off tonight and VCDS it. Any suggestions on the other issues?

@Sandra the time will come :wub:

Arrkon · Nov 3, 2015

Sneaky pic, before I do my usual and change its appearance... lol

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Mike B · Nov 3, 2015

Mines an04 Sport.I have had the ATF changed when a helper undid the drain plug by mistake but its not supposed to need it.I suspect the vibration is something else.It might be worth getting the suspension checked out and the tracking done.Check for leaks round the diffs.The centre one on mine slowly lost most of its oil and needed a seal changed.The vent is the motor behind the g/box.Bit tricky but you can open them andchange the grease which goes hard .The whistle might be a boost leak.My last one had a whoosh on the turbo which I got used to but this one is dead quiet at least it was until my son( little helper) fitted a cone air filter from his S3 but again I have got used to it.Impressive and quite frugal when cruising

Arrkon · Nov 5, 2015

Just been under it today at MOT. rear differential is sopping wet, and so is the trans...

looks like I have some work ahead of me...

Mike B · Nov 5, 2015

Could be just the O ring seal.Wasnt a big job but you have to get the right seal and fluid

Arrkon · Nov 6, 2015

Well having just driven from the Midlands to Cumbria, there's definitely something amiss at the rear... After a fair few miles (about 80-100) the vibration becomes very much more noticeable. But after stopping in the services for half hour, it wasn't too bad again.

I'm thinking the rear differential may have had it... Even at low speeds (motorway crawl) it feels like the back of the car is moving side to side....

anyone know of a b6 tdi being broken?

spartacus 68 · Nov 6, 2015

If the rear diff is wet (takes 2 litres) the driveshaft seals have probably gone. However don't condemn it until you've checked everything else. Poor tyres can give road rumble and vibration with flat spots. I'd also check the rear bearings for play. Depending on mileage there are rear links which connect to the rear ARB that can fail too.

Super-cheap rear diff here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-a4-b...057357?hash=item3ab58d928d:g:ZtsAAOSwo6lWN8xa however EBay is like a lucky dip. Personally I'd find a local and trusted dismantler. Avoid breakeryard.co.uk at all costs.

Get those front wings treated as soon as possible. A winter or two and they'll be like Gorgonzola.

Arrkon · Nov 6, 2015

Cheers for the reply spartacus, at slow speed, it almost feels like the wheels are loose, I'm certain it's in the prop/diff/driveshaft area but not sure exactly where... Would low fluid cause it?

spartacus68 · Nov 7, 2015

AR-rkon said:
Cheers for the reply spartacus, at slow speed, it almost feels like the wheels are loose, I'm certain it's in the prop/diff/driveshaft area but not sure exactly where... Would low fluid cause it?

It could very well be the rear diff, but you really need to check it. Low fluid will increase wear on the internal gears, so over time the wear becomes sloppy. New seals and new oil won't save it. Only way to tell is to pull the plug and see the quantity of gear oil that comes out. Always pull the filler plug first just in case.

If you do opt to renew the diff, mark the position of the prop-shaft where it connects with the diff flange. These things are balanced.

Arrkon · Nov 7, 2015

Shall do, will check the quantity of oil first.

When you say mark the position, how do you mean? as surely the relationship of original prop and new (second hand) diff would mean the nullify the balancing?

spartacus68 · Nov 8, 2015

AR-rkon said:
Shall do, will check the quantity of oil first.

When you say mark the position, how do you mean? as surely the relationship of original prop and new (second hand) diff would mean the nullify the balancing?

Some folk opt to pull the rear diff out to do the seals. Working under a ton and half of car seems to have that effect! Then steam clean, etc.

Replacing seals: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/403611-DIY-Rear-differential-axle-seals

Renewing gear oil: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/87980-B6-A4-How-to-change-your-rear-diff-oil

Just a thought, but there's a rear diff mount. Could be that that's worn, allowing drivetrain movement?
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...he-B6-(ARDU)-Apikol-Rear-Diff-support-Upgrade

If you do opt to strip out the rear diff to replace (I'd replace seals and renew gear oil to test) before progressing to this, ensure the VAG number print on the diff matches the replacement or the gear ratios will be out and it will be goosed in next to no time.

Arrkon · Nov 8, 2015

spartacus68 said:
Some folk opt to pull the rear diff out to do the seals. Working under a ton and half of car seems to have that effect! Then steam clean, etc.

Replacing seals: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/403611-DIY-Rear-differential-axle-seals

Renewing gear oil: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/87980-B6-A4-How-to-change-your-rear-diff-oil

Just a thought, but there's a rear diff mount. Could be that that's worn, allowing drivetrain movement?
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...he-B6-(ARDU)-Apikol-Rear-Diff-support-Upgrade

If you do opt to strip out the rear diff to replace (I'd replace seals and renew gear oil to test) before progressing to this, ensure the VAG number print on the diff matches the replacement or the gear ratios will be out and it will be goosed in next to no time.

So to replace, it's not enough for it to have come from the same spec car (avant auto 2.5tdi)?

Had thought about the mount, as i know they fail on the s4/rs4, but as it only seems to occur after a long drive (gear oil gets hot and thin perhaps) I'm pretty sure the diff is U/S. If the diff is replaced, plan is to service it and renew the seals before it goes in. I'm thinking I'll also replace the inner CV's while the diff is out of the way.

spartacus 68 · Nov 8, 2015

I'm sure exactly the same model years will be compatible, but you know what Audi are like. Check serial codes to match. Just read about a bloke on an A2 form that was about to replace his rear axle to convert drums to discs, had it zinc coated and powder-coated. Was from 1.6 FSI. Only trouble was it was from an A3!

Arrkon · Nov 13, 2015

bit of a development, not convinced it's the rear diff any more. Massive vibration/crabbing on a r/h turn, not so much on a l/h, makes the brake pedal rattle. Can't see the turning affect the rear as much as this. Could this be driveshaft/CV issue or centre differential?

Mike B · Nov 13, 2015

Get the tracking checked .It makes a lot of diff on these

Arrkon · Nov 13, 2015

This is significantly more than just wheel tracking, and that it only occurs after a prolonged drive...

New purchase... B6 2.5tdi Quattro

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