Hi I am thinking of buying an Audi 4 avant 2.0 TDI on an 06 106000 miles on it hearing night meres with the chain drive to the pump the 1 I am going to look at has a bre engine is it better than the blb 1 any help would be much appreciated
Audi a4 2.0 TDI avant
- Thread starter Belly
- Start date
I've got a 57 plate BRE. Brought it with 145k in feb it's now on 159k and its gleaming. Just done a 3k trip to Spain and didn't miss a beat.
Here is pretty much all the information you need: http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/2-0-tdi-oil-pump-balance-shaft-failure.81997/
In a nutshell:
That engine probably has the chain driven oil pump, which has two different failure mechanisms. One is the chain drive's tensioner, which breaks causing the chain to be loose and eat the sprockets etc. This can also lower the oil pressure (because the chain starts to slip over the sprockets) and cause engine damage. The other failure mechanism is the hexagonal drive shaft from the balance shaft to the oil pump, which wears out and starts spinning in the hexagonal groove causing instant loss of oil pressure and massive damage to engine and turbo, if the engine is not turned off quite quickly.
The chain problem might exhibit a certain type of sound, when the engine is running, but the hexagonal drive shaft will not give any kind of warning before failure. Some cars can have these failures at under 100k, some won't fail with even with over 200k on the engine. But the only way to be sure and have peace of mind is to fix these problems before hand. It's also possible, that some of these fixes have already been done, so you could ask about that.
The bottom line is that these failures do occur, they don't occur on every vehicle, but they are not rare either.Fixing them is not cheap and if they occur, they might destroy the whole engine.
In a nutshell:
That engine probably has the chain driven oil pump, which has two different failure mechanisms. One is the chain drive's tensioner, which breaks causing the chain to be loose and eat the sprockets etc. This can also lower the oil pressure (because the chain starts to slip over the sprockets) and cause engine damage. The other failure mechanism is the hexagonal drive shaft from the balance shaft to the oil pump, which wears out and starts spinning in the hexagonal groove causing instant loss of oil pressure and massive damage to engine and turbo, if the engine is not turned off quite quickly.
The chain problem might exhibit a certain type of sound, when the engine is running, but the hexagonal drive shaft will not give any kind of warning before failure. Some cars can have these failures at under 100k, some won't fail with even with over 200k on the engine. But the only way to be sure and have peace of mind is to fix these problems before hand. It's also possible, that some of these fixes have already been done, so you could ask about that.
The bottom line is that these failures do occur, they don't occur on every vehicle, but they are not rare either.Fixing them is not cheap and if they occur, they might destroy the whole engine.
I have a 55 plate 2.0 TDi Avant with the BLB engine and I'm on nearly 155k and I have not had any issues so far and the previous owner put 70k on it over the past 4.5 years and he's not had to replace the oil pump etc yet. I will be having another oil change done in the next couple of weeks before I go to France and will also have the pump and shaft inspected.
At the end of the day you'll only ever hear the horror stories, no one really writes a review of how good their car is.
At the end of the day you'll only ever hear the horror stories, no one really writes a review of how good their car is.
As above 105k 05 plate blb no work done no rattles or chain like noises, oil changes every 10k/year and no problems to report, like its been said, you will only hear the horror stories and minority of owners are on here and other forums compared to the majority. Its a problem and a definite fault, but from what i can gather, not all where faulty.
I'll fix it if its broken, not before as i dint have £500 to throw at something that might or might not be there
I'll fix it if its broken, not before as i dint have £500 to throw at something that might or might not be there
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
Yeah I read too much on these forums and ended up getting my oil pump balance shaft modified even though it was in perfect condition as it turns out. Still don't regret it as I now have piece of mind.
good day guys,
decided to do a major service on car, however nothing was wrong with the car before I did this.. after changing cambelt and tensioner as well as fanbelt..car starts first time
runs like a dream....BUT...when she idles she is happy as soon as I drive the heat climbs and the screen flashes coolant.. I changed the thermostat, still the same...check water pump by making sure water sprays back in water bottle.. what else could it be, pulling my hair out!!!
decided to do a major service on car, however nothing was wrong with the car before I did this.. after changing cambelt and tensioner as well as fanbelt..car starts first time
runs like a dream....BUT...when she idles she is happy as soon as I drive the heat climbs and the screen flashes coolant.. I changed the thermostat, still the same...check water pump by making sure water sprays back in water bottle.. what else could it be, pulling my hair out!!!
jay1601
Registered User
And if you changed the water pump, did you bleed the air out of the cooling system when you refilled it with coolant? The above sounds like a possible airlock perhaps?
And did you install the thermostat correctly by screwing it into the plastic thermostat cover? The Haynes manual does not instruct this correctly if I recall. I installed it "wrong" the first time by just placing the thermostat into the engine block. It didn't cause any noticeable issue, but I re-did it just to make sure the coolant flow its properly restricted (which is quite important here in Finland especially in the winter. Otherwise the engine will not reach the correct operating temperature).
And did you install the thermostat correctly by screwing it into the plastic thermostat cover? The Haynes manual does not instruct this correctly if I recall. I installed it "wrong" the first time by just placing the thermostat into the engine block. It didn't cause any noticeable issue, but I re-did it just to make sure the coolant flow its properly restricted (which is quite important here in Finland especially in the winter. Otherwise the engine will not reach the correct operating temperature).
hi there,
so....at the end, after bleeding it correctly and checking thermostat....it was the damn water pump..so stripped motor AGAIN..replace water pump as the old ones propeller came loose that's why it was over heating..thanks to everyones input...she is now 100%..
I must however say, these cars are damn temperamental.
so....at the end, after bleeding it correctly and checking thermostat....it was the damn water pump..so stripped motor AGAIN..replace water pump as the old ones propeller came loose that's why it was over heating..thanks to everyones input...she is now 100%..
I must however say, these cars are damn temperamental.
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
Grrrr, pet hate of mine since owning an Audi. If you're spending the best part of £300 to £400 changing the cambelt why not spend the extra £40 and get the pump replaced at the same time. Previous owner of mine proudly announced he'd had the cambelt changed but was too tight to get the pump done. So I had to have it all done just 15k later when I realised it was still the original pump on mine 
lol...I hear you also bought mine secondhand, I got told water pump was new, it even looked new..moral of the story, don't trust the word of previous owner...at least now I know...cambelt, tensioner, waterpump, fan belt is all new..
