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Aussie big turbo Audi S3
- Thread starter Jenno007
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Not going to say you didn't warn me.
I will hold judgement until we see what power it makes.
If it makes 400hp at the wheels I'll be a happy man (not that its the numbers that matter).
Just enough to surprise some bogans in their v8 commodores
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Ooooo Much awesomeness Jenno 
I did wonder if you'd abandoned the build as it's been a while,
Can't wait to see more
Steve
I did wonder if you'd abandoned the build as it's been a while,Can't wait to see more
Steve
Remove the cam cover studs and use cap head bolts instead
<tuffty/>
Great idea! Thank you I will do that
Ooooo Much awesomeness Jenno
Can't wait to see more
Steve
Cheers Steve hopefully I'll have some more interesting updates soon!
Well it's been ages since I've made an update and that is because well... It's been ages since anything has happened.
But this week we have been working flat out on the car and have some exciting updates.
Started by bolting everything up to the engine including the clutch and all accessories
Used silver solder to make a hard line on the coolant return line for added heat resistance over a hose (idea stolen from Tuffty). You can also see the oil return line. This is a push lock hose and has since had substantial heat protection added.
The factory heat exchange has been removed and an external oil cooler will be used running an inline thermostat
An aluminium heat shield was made to protect some plastic (I expect it may still melt a little)
The engine was test fit and a little panel beating done for some added clearance (once we attached the dog bone we realised this wasn't entirely necessary).
I had to make and weld on a bung for the EGT sensor. This was freightning as my welding skills are all self taught and I didn't want to ruin my down pipe.
My welding is the one on the right (it didn't turn out too bad if you ask me)
Today we will bolt the engine in for good, make a few new hoses, just need to wait on some parts before we attach the drive shafts as we are refreshing some of the old rubber.
But this week we have been working flat out on the car and have some exciting updates.
Started by bolting everything up to the engine including the clutch and all accessories
Used silver solder to make a hard line on the coolant return line for added heat resistance over a hose (idea stolen from Tuffty). You can also see the oil return line. This is a push lock hose and has since had substantial heat protection added.
The factory heat exchange has been removed and an external oil cooler will be used running an inline thermostat
An aluminium heat shield was made to protect some plastic (I expect it may still melt a little)
The engine was test fit and a little panel beating done for some added clearance (once we attached the dog bone we realised this wasn't entirely necessary).
I had to make and weld on a bung for the EGT sensor. This was freightning as my welding skills are all self taught and I didn't want to ruin my down pipe.
My welding is the one on the right (it didn't turn out too bad if you ask me)
Today we will bolt the engine in for good, make a few new hoses, just need to wait on some parts before we attach the drive shafts as we are refreshing some of the old rubber.
Sooo... Things always take longer than expected. Only have time to work on the cars Saturday mornings as I'm flat out with work.
Installed an oil cooler and got rid of the factor heat exchanger
Thermostat installed behind the crash bar to let the oil get up to temp.
Clearance between the down pipe and drive shaft. One part of the CTS kit that fits well
Hopefully will start it next weekend or the weekend after.
Went on a track day on Friday in my other car and constantly ****** the brakes - so the next thing will be to make some ducting to help cool them a little. Wondering if someone who is clued up with aerodynamics can help me out - I don't have room at the front of the car to have a collector as the intercooler / fog lights and many other things are in the road. If I have the ducting underneath the car pointing as forward as it can without sitting too low, will that collect any air? I'll get a picture of how I want it to sit and hopefully someone with a little knowledge can let me know if I'm wasting my time or not.
Installed an oil cooler and got rid of the factor heat exchanger
Thermostat installed behind the crash bar to let the oil get up to temp.
Clearance between the down pipe and drive shaft. One part of the CTS kit that fits well
Hopefully will start it next weekend or the weekend after.
Went on a track day on Friday in my other car and constantly ****** the brakes - so the next thing will be to make some ducting to help cool them a little. Wondering if someone who is clued up with aerodynamics can help me out - I don't have room at the front of the car to have a collector as the intercooler / fog lights and many other things are in the road. If I have the ducting underneath the car pointing as forward as it can without sitting too low, will that collect any air? I'll get a picture of how I want it to sit and hopefully someone with a little knowledge can let me know if I'm wasting my time or not.
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To be honest I had no idea on what size would be suitable. Since the OE heat exchange is gone I just thought I'd put the biggest one I could in. And e85 so I'm not worried if the intercooler doesn't see quite so much air.
Glad to see you posting that it's huge rather than too small
And it's going to be over 40 for the next 3 or 4 days so we do see some warm weather.
Glad to see you posting that it's huge rather than too small
And it's going to be over 40 for the next 3 or 4 days so we do see some warm weather.
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It gets reduced to 2.5" for a little bit behind the engine, but the part you're seeing is 3"
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Yup
Hopefully this serves me well for a couple of years.
Once I've enjoyed this for a while when the engine needs to come out I'll go tubular manifold / 3" (or even 3.5") dump and sort the head.
But I'm sure I'll enjoy this
She's alive!!
Starting it with the link ecu was the easiest thing in the world. Plug it in and load the Audi TT 225 map. Compensate for larger injectors by changing one value & start it.
Getting it towed to my place tomorrow then I'll make all the intercooler piping, intake pipe & get someone to make the exhaust
Starting it with the link ecu was the easiest thing in the world. Plug it in and load the Audi TT 225 map. Compensate for larger injectors by changing one value & start it.
Getting it towed to my place tomorrow then I'll make all the intercooler piping, intake pipe & get someone to make the exhaust
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Thanks mate.
Just a quick one, do you use aluminium or steel for the intercooler pipes on your builds, and what wall thickness? I'm thinking of using 2mm aluminium pipe so the JCS hose clamps don't crush it haha
Just a quick one, do you use aluminium or steel for the intercooler pipes on your builds, and what wall thickness? I'm thinking of using 2mm aluminium pipe so the JCS hose clamps don't crush it haha
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Use alloy bends... any of the stuff thats available from places like Forge or ASH... you won't crush one with a JCS clip
<tuffty/>
I've bought a universal kit and I'm planning on cutting the bends and welding them together for less silicone joins. Just concerned as some of my old piping has been crushed a little. But this universal kit I've got is 2mm so I'd imagine that's plenty thick enough
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So started on the turbo intake pipe and intercooler pipes today.
Quite a tight fit under the heater hose
Also managed to do one side of the intercooler
Next I will finish the intercooler, and the turbo intake pipe. The turbo intake pipe needs a bung for the DV and N75 as well as a bracket to support it.
Not much left now
Quite a tight fit under the heater hose
Also managed to do one side of the intercooler
Next I will finish the intercooler, and the turbo intake pipe. The turbo intake pipe needs a bung for the DV and N75 as well as a bracket to support it.
Not much left now
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The TIP is stainless (was always planning on this as I had some 4" stainless lying around. The intercooler pipes are all 2mm aluminium
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Yup the long piece in that photo is a 90 degree bend. Then welded another bend to it so it fits better with less stress on the silicone hose. I'm going to be using as much of the alloy bends as I can as welding it isn't the easiest thing in the world (especially because it's **** aluminium just off eBay).
Also rolling beads on the end of all pipes
Also rolling beads on the end of all pipes
Hi guys,
It's been a while since updates. I have since remade the intercooler pipes using bends rather than mitre joins for better flow. Painted everything black of course.. The car is getting a run in tune on the 29th of March! So it will finally be back on the road!
Pic of the exhaust from the back, the exhaust is almost identical to Tuffty's as that design seemed to work well and I managed to fit a cat, resonator, hot dog muffler and back box all in to make it as quiet as possible.
Also the TIP
And I've started work on a little air box to hide the TIP
It was very easy to make, it just needs some brackets to hold it in place and some paint!
The catch can is almost finished and then the car will be ready to go!
The n75 isn't plumbed in yet as the run in tune will be wastegate pressure. Also I don't have a DV plumbed in. I will see how loud it is, I'm hoping the airbox will muffle the noise enough. I am just excited to get this thing on the road!
It's been a while since updates. I have since remade the intercooler pipes using bends rather than mitre joins for better flow. Painted everything black of course.. The car is getting a run in tune on the 29th of March! So it will finally be back on the road!
Pic of the exhaust from the back, the exhaust is almost identical to Tuffty's as that design seemed to work well and I managed to fit a cat, resonator, hot dog muffler and back box all in to make it as quiet as possible.
Also the TIP
And I've started work on a little air box to hide the TIP
It was very easy to make, it just needs some brackets to hold it in place and some paint!
The catch can is almost finished and then the car will be ready to go!
The n75 isn't plumbed in yet as the run in tune will be wastegate pressure. Also I don't have a DV plumbed in. I will see how loud it is, I'm hoping the airbox will muffle the noise enough. I am just excited to get this thing on the road!
Got the car back! Has a run in tune on wastegate pressure (about 12psi worth of springs) and a 5k rpm limit.
I have been driving it quite hard up to the limit as a few people like to break in the car hard. One thing I have noticed is it gets very warm under the engine bay! Very very warm... So I might have to think of some things to aid a bit of air flow through the bonnet. Hopefully on e85 it wont be so bad.
I might remove the rubber seal that sits along the back of the engine bay and see how it goes with that removed. I know that helped with another one of my cars that gets warm. Sadly my liquid display doesn't work anymore so I don't know what the coolant temps are. The fans stay on once I turn the car off for about 30 seconds after a bit of a drive (it was 33 degrees yesterday), but the temp gauge doesn't move so it can't be that bad.
Videos to follow once the exhaust and heat shield vibrations are fixed!
I have been driving it quite hard up to the limit as a few people like to break in the car hard. One thing I have noticed is it gets very warm under the engine bay! Very very warm... So I might have to think of some things to aid a bit of air flow through the bonnet. Hopefully on e85 it wont be so bad.
I might remove the rubber seal that sits along the back of the engine bay and see how it goes with that removed. I know that helped with another one of my cars that gets warm. Sadly my liquid display doesn't work anymore so I don't know what the coolant temps are. The fans stay on once I turn the car off for about 30 seconds after a bit of a drive (it was 33 degrees yesterday), but the temp gauge doesn't move so it can't be that bad.
Videos to follow once the exhaust and heat shield vibrations are fixed!
Sam_
Down under
Good progress. Nice inlet setup. I know what you mean about a build taking ages. I'm still waiting for my head to be done.
A bit late but probably a good idea to keep the OE heat exchanger as it has an effect of getting the oil up to temp quicker (given water heats up faster) which is essential if it's going not going to be a pure track car.
A bit late but probably a good idea to keep the OE heat exchanger as it has an effect of getting the oil up to temp quicker (given water heats up faster) which is essential if it's going not going to be a pure track car.
It is a little bit late now haha. The guy that built my car really didn't want to put it back on as he sees them fail quite often.
I have an oil temp gauge and I always let that get up to a reasonable temp before I give it anything though. I'm happy to let the car properly warm up.
It is amazing how quickly the coolant gets to temp now compared to before!
Bit of an update - the car has it's run in tune - no idea on power but it is 10psi with a 5k rpm limit. 3000-5000 rpm is a heap of fun, I can't wait for a decent amount of boost!
Car gets tuned on Monday the 11th, so I have to do around 1000km before then. Apparently it will take around a week to do the tune given it's flex fuel and they want to get the cold start 100%. Exhaust has a couple of rattles that I need to sort out.
Car gets tuned on Monday the 11th, so I have to do around 1000km before then. Apparently it will take around a week to do the tune given it's flex fuel and they want to get the cold start 100%. Exhaust has a couple of rattles that I need to sort out.
Car is running great. I am seeing quite high oil pressures. When the oil is cold it is constantly above 100psi, and when it is up to temp cruising at 2500rpm it is around 85-90 and 3000pm 90-95.
I have done a bit of searching on google and it seems that this is quite common with strokers. I'm thinking it could be the running in oil (motul sae30 low detergent mineral oil). I am switching to fully sync soon. I have currently done 450km, I will swap the oil at around 750km. Hopefully the oil pressure will drop then.
Apart from an exhaust heat shield rattle and tune being quite rough the car is running great. Can't wait to see what power it makes!
It's amazing, when I first started driving it, it felt very slow and the turbo spooled close to 4k rpm. 450km later it feels faster and the turbo spools around 3500.
I have done a bit of searching on google and it seems that this is quite common with strokers. I'm thinking it could be the running in oil (motul sae30 low detergent mineral oil). I am switching to fully sync soon. I have currently done 450km, I will swap the oil at around 750km. Hopefully the oil pressure will drop then.
Apart from an exhaust heat shield rattle and tune being quite rough the car is running great. Can't wait to see what power it makes!
It's amazing, when I first started driving it, it felt very slow and the turbo spooled close to 4k rpm. 450km later it feels faster and the turbo spools around 3500.
If anyone could chime in about the high oil pressure that would be great.
Is too much oil pressure a bad thing? My engine builder said he has never seen one of the oil pressure relief valves fail due to their incredible basic design, and not to worry.
On a side note I just purchased this
I read quite a few reviews about them online and only saw positive feedback.
You can adjust the angle your engine sits at which should help with the heat shield rattle I get at around 3000rpm on overrun.
I HATE rattles... they're just plain embarrassing.
Is too much oil pressure a bad thing? My engine builder said he has never seen one of the oil pressure relief valves fail due to their incredible basic design, and not to worry.
On a side note I just purchased this
I read quite a few reviews about them online and only saw positive feedback.
You can adjust the angle your engine sits at which should help with the heat shield rattle I get at around 3000rpm on overrun.
I HATE rattles... they're just plain embarrassing.
On Wednesday night... Disaster struck!
I had a slight power steering leak so I tried to tighten the pressure Sensor as that was where it was coming from. It tightened very easily, and then snapped off!
This was at 630 at night. Luckily my engine builder was still working and managed to order one that arrived the following day. This was important because I had a wheel alignment today and the car is getting tuned Monday!
Then an oil leak started! There was oil all under the engine so it was quite hard to tell where it was coming from. But then I noticed it was coming from my oil temp gauge. Turns out the sensor was leaking so I took it out and replaced it with a bolt for now.
Turns out there is always something to keep you on your toes! Now just an exhaust rattle, and to plumb in the n75 before Monday.
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I had a slight power steering leak so I tried to tighten the pressure Sensor as that was where it was coming from. It tightened very easily, and then snapped off!
This was at 630 at night. Luckily my engine builder was still working and managed to order one that arrived the following day. This was important because I had a wheel alignment today and the car is getting tuned Monday!
Then an oil leak started! There was oil all under the engine so it was quite hard to tell where it was coming from. But then I noticed it was coming from my oil temp gauge. Turns out the sensor was leaking so I took it out and replaced it with a bolt for now.
Turns out there is always something to keep you on your toes! Now just an exhaust rattle, and to plumb in the n75 before Monday.
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The car had been at the tuners all week. Sadly I'll have to wait until next week to get it back. The ecu isn't letting the car rev over 6400 for some reason. They're currently trying to figure out why.
Still, at 1 bar boost its making 280whp on a hub dyno which I'm pretty happy with. This is just on pump 98. The tuner said he will run around 1.4bar and aim for 320-340 and then go crazy on e85.
Hopefully the rev issue is an easy fix
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Still, at 1 bar boost its making 280whp on a hub dyno which I'm pretty happy with. This is just on pump 98. The tuner said he will run around 1.4bar and aim for 320-340 and then go crazy on e85.
Hopefully the rev issue is an easy fix
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So another update, replaced the crank sensor and the car still wouldn't rev over 6400.. turned out to be the firmware on the ecu needing updating.
The car now revs to 7500! It insane 5500-7500! Tune still needs a little cleaning up on light throttle but on boost the car drives amazing.
I had the car for the weekend and it was running around 12-13psi and making 280+whp. Was a heap of fun to drive and pulled pretty hard for a low power level.
Just dropped the car back at the tuners today and I should have it back Friday. Heres hoping for 400whp, I can only imagine what it is like then.
The car now revs to 7500! It insane 5500-7500! Tune still needs a little cleaning up on light throttle but on boost the car drives amazing.
I had the car for the weekend and it was running around 12-13psi and making 280+whp. Was a heap of fun to drive and pulled pretty hard for a low power level.
Just dropped the car back at the tuners today and I should have it back Friday. Heres hoping for 400whp, I can only imagine what it is like then.
i thought stock rev limit was 7k?
unless you're not on the stock ECU... are you?
#videosoritdidn'thappen
Not on stock ecu, was getting a misfire at 6400 because the crank and cam sensors were going crazy
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Sure is love going past 7k haha. Although with the power it happens so quick in second it's hard to time. Can't imagine what it's going to be like with more power.
Like a game where you need to press the button exactly on "7500"
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