New turbo help

s3black

s3black

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So had my turbo gasket changed today. Tightened everything up and it pulls better but..... When my mechanic had a look after with a mirror on a stick. It seems there is a hairline crack just under where the gasket is on the turbo. It seems to be still blowing a bit and it's the only explanation.
What's the best fix ie cheapest way. Thanks.
 
Sounds like the turbine housing is cracked... Replacement is the only option. Unless you weld it up but if its cracked right through there, chances are when you open it up, its just as bad everywhere else...

Can get new ones here, not sure on the quality of those though, might be worth looking for a genuine second hand unit....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbo-Tur...urbocharger-/321873050401?hash=item4af120fb21
 
Replacement turbo...

Did you check that the inserts for the turbo bolts were flush? these have a habit of winding out and gasket will never seal

<tuffty/>
 
Tom93 said:
Sounds like the turbine housing is cracked... Replacement is the only option. Unless you weld it up but if its cracked right through there, chances are when you open it up, its just as bad everywhere else...

Can get new ones here, not sure on the quality of those though, might be worth looking for a genuine second hand unit....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbo-Tur...urbocharger-/321873050401?hash=item4af120fb21
Click to expand...

Check the wastgate opening on that... the copy ones tend to be small and cause over boost issues

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
Replacement turbo...

Did you check that the inserts for the turbo bolts were flush? these have a habit of winding out and gasket will never seal

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Oh no we didn't. It only took him 30 mins with a long metal bar and no heat lol. Should I check these then? When we stripped it down the second time and re tightened them they had to be toghtened a lot. That seemed to cure the big flappy blow that appeared. But there is still a hissy blow that was there in the first place.
Have you an image of what these inserts look like and what to use to tighten with? Also should there be a torque level to tighten to? Or just tighten as much as possible lol thanks.
 
Also tuffty. I know it's off topic. But see where your washer bottle and coolant bottles are on the drivers side. There is a rectangular black box which the fuel pipes go into with what looks like plastic connectors. I noticed one was higher than he other so I pushed it down flush. And there is a smell of fuel in this area. What is it and should there be any ribbed plastic connectors sticking up? Sorry to be vague but I can't find anything online about it as I don't know what it's called.
 
s3black said:
Oh no we didn't. It only took him 30 mins with a long metal bar and no heat lol. Should I check these then? When we stripped it down the second time and re tightened them they had to be toghtened a lot. That seemed to cure the big flappy blow that appeared. But there is still a hissy blow that was there in the first place.
Have you an image of what these inserts look like and what to use to tighten with? Also should there be a torque level to tighten to? Or just tighten as much as possible lol thanks.
Click to expand...
you wind them in flush.. 10mm thread, bolt + nut and wind them in..
inserts looks like this> http://badger5.biz/epages/3927bc2c-...4739-96a5-d6cca869fcd6/Products/"k04 inserts"

HYBRID-STD-VS-PORTED-1.jpg
 
Hi tuffty, that's the only two codes. Had a DV one but fitted now valve and cleared code now it's gone. So far lol.

Image
Image
 
Plausibly a wiring fault then as there are two open circuit faults... I assume your N249 valve is actually plugged in?

There is also a fuse for some of the engine sensors (IIRC) so maybe worth checking the fuse box (drivers side panel of dash)

<tuffty/>
 
No n249 is unplugged and when I bought the car someone had done the tidy up but not put it back in lol. Silly person : )
I'll check the wiring for the o2 and see what it's like first. I do have a decat though so would this cause the error? Thanks for all your help peeps.
 
Plug the N249 back in... the ECU needs to see it electrically for fuel adaptions to work... B1 S2 is the post cat lambda so yes, this again still needs to be electrically connected... its main purpose can be coded out (cat efficiency) to stop the CEL from coming on but its a little more hit and miss to code it out completely iirc... not tried it personally so can't comment but if not fully coded out it needs to be plugged in electrically too else again fuel adaptions won't work

<tuffty/>
 
I've just been reading up on these bits. So the n249 can have a resistor put in place? Will this work or should I just get an n249? Also it will need to be left hanging as nowhere to put it lol.
I will check the wiring on the 02 first and hope it's that. But if I did put a new one on the car would it be ok with the decat in place? Or is there anything I need to do to modify it to work? Cheers.
 
Just out of interest. Is that code for the post cat then Bill? Thanks.
 
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