superkarls overhaul

superkarl · Sep 7, 2015

Prawn said:
First port of call for me now on this is front wishbone front bushes. Replaced mine 3 times and cured the noise each time.

Power flex ones in there now, although they are about 4 years old.

superkarl · Oct 1, 2015

That'll be the source of my boost leak.
That's a JCS jubilee and has unfortunately met the click of death.
Do I replace it with another? Is there anything better? T bolt?

Also made some boost leak tester caps

<tuffty/> · Oct 1, 2015

JCS are fine... Just get someone with less strength than the man of steel to tighten them...

<tuffty/>

superkarl · Oct 1, 2015

<tuffty/> said:
JCS are fine... Just get someone with less strength than the man of steel to tighten them...

<tuffty/>

Good thinking batman

...wait

superkarl · Oct 4, 2015

Tfsi loom conduit and coil pack heat protection.

With my side mount turbo my rocker cover and coil packs see a lot of heat.
I wanted to wrap them with some form of shielding, found some tape online:

Adhesive backing, easy to cut, easy to wrap. Is like a thinner version of the oem heat sleeve jackets.

How my standard loom looked:

CAREFULLY removed plastic and tape with a Stanley knife:

A small notch is needed for the earth:

Test fit of the conduit to see how much room I have to play with:

Start wrapping your tape around the loom, bind it tight.

Keep checking it fits and work your way along:

This little pegs need trimming off just to make things easier, they serve no purpose:

Coil number 4 is the trickiest:

But patience and careful wrapping and it will all fit:

Final assembly:

Please excuse my shoddy primed engine parts.
Total time for job, 1 hour. Should be well protected from heat.

g60leigh · Oct 4, 2015

Ive a black one in garage waiting to be fitted when I get car back. How much was the tape

superkarl · Oct 4, 2015

g60leigh said:
Ive a black one in garage waiting to be fitted when I get car back. How much was the tape

It was £11.99.
'Pitking heat cool tape' on eBay.
I tried to get the link but my phone is being a ****

SamHendry · Oct 4, 2015

Hey Karl that ecs conduit is a right fiddle of a job. Got one myself. The main reason I'm posting is your boost leak caps. Did you just drill a hole through the cap then slip a tyre valve in? Are those caps easy to source?

Cheers

Crazypete00 · Oct 4, 2015

where did you get the coil pack conduit from? and how much?

superkarl · Oct 4, 2015

SamHendry said:
Hey Karl that ecs conduit is a right fiddle of a job. Got one myself. The main reason I'm posting is your boost leak caps. Did you just drill a hole through the cap then slip a tyre valve in? Are those caps easy to source?

Cheers

https://www.colglo.co.uk/product.php?product=EF020.CAA0750

Yeh drill and pull the valve through. I used glue from the body shop to be extra safe that it seals. Not tested them yet.
Careful ordering, their listings are I.D and obv you'll need the O.D, luckily they include diagram on the page so you know the outer dimension.

Crazypete00 said:
where did you get the coil pack conduit from? and how much?

Awesome Gti, about £15. Bargain

S3 Hilife · Oct 5, 2015

I've got to get some of that heat tape and re-do mine now I've seen that

looking good Karl

Steve

superkarl · Oct 6, 2015

It's the little things...

Coppers out, iridium in. .7mm

Hopefully testing my boost leak testers this week once my supply of JCS jubilees comes in. I'm down about 4-5psi which feels about 50hp. And as we all know, life begins at 2bar.

Other jobs include fixing a power steering leak at the pressure sensor, this is just 2 washers #16

And as for my clunk that I have on accel and under braking, I cannot find anything. It's been on the ramp twice, everything is tight and does not budge.
The ONLY thing I think it may be is the transfer box bracket, I found a crack in mine, maybe this is moving about the crack under torsion???
Trouble is, I can't seem to find the exact one on the parts database.
Is it this:

Or is it this, which I believe is a sheet metal version Vs cast:

<tuffty/> · Oct 6, 2015

Part number should be on the casting...

If I remember I'll look on the one at bills... the steel one is better IMO... but not sure if the transfer boxes are different to accommodate... something I need to but as yet not been in a position to check

<tuffty/>

superkarl · Oct 6, 2015

<tuffty/> said:
Part number should be on the casting...

If I remember I'll look on the one at bills... the steel one is better IMO... but not sure if the transfer boxes are different to accommodate... something I need to but as yet not been in a position to check

<tuffty/>

Cheers il try and find it in situ.
I'd prefer a steel one also if it's possible. I think mine cracked due to over tightening

Gops · Oct 6, 2015

When I had a clunk under accelerating and braking it drove me nuts!! Found out to be the dv hitting the strut brace! Haha felt like a right ****!

Alex C · Oct 6, 2015

Gops said:
When I had a clunk under accelerating and braking it drove me nuts!! Found out to be the dv hitting the strut brace! Haha felt like a right ****!

ha! I had that too. My DV was vibrating against the strut brace really badly on idle and I was worried; took it into a local garage and then I realised after I fixed a popped hose I had reinstalled the DV at a different angle; again, I felt like a right ****

superkarl · Oct 6, 2015

Gops said:
When I had a clunk under accelerating and braking it drove me nuts!! Found out to be the dv hitting the strut brace! Haha felt like a right ****!

Alex C said:
ha! I had that too. My DV was vibrating against the strut brace really badly on idle and I was worried; took it into a local garage and then I realised after I fixed a popped hose I had reinstalled the DV at a different angle; again, I felt like a right ****

You pair of twats haha
It's not that, I've just studied a pic of my bay and the DV is nowhere near

Prawn · Oct 7, 2015

Just re-read my post at the top of this page. I missed a key word.

Front wishbone, front BOLTS!

Replace these for new OE bolts. Torque to OE spec, if you've gone through everything else like I did, I think this will be the cure.

CHEZ · Oct 7, 2015

Your such a tart Karl.

superkarl · Oct 7, 2015

Prawn said:
Just re-read my post at the top of this page. I missed a key word.

Front wishbone, front BOLTS!

Replace these for new OE bolts. Torque to OE spec, if you've gone through everything else like I did, I think this will be the cure.

Il get them ordered, thanks prawn

A3-Lee · Oct 8, 2015

Prawn said:
Just re-read my post at the top of this page. I missed a key word.

Front wishbone, front BOLTS!

Replace these for new OE bolts. Torque to OE spec, if you've gone through everything else like I did, I think this will be the cure.

This also fixed my clunk

Prawn · Oct 8, 2015

I refused to believe it myself. Someone said it would be the cause, so I got under there with the breaker bar and tightened the crap out of them. It didn’t cure the clunk, so I tightened them even more. Still didn’t cure it.

I decided it could be movement in the rear bushes, so made reinforcing plates and welded them into the subframe, then cranked the living hell out of the bolts, and still the clunk didn’t go away.

I finally gave in and replaced the front bolts for new OE, torqued to OE spec which I believe was 50lbft + 90 degrees, and the clunk vanished instantly!

Around a year later of hard abuse and trackdays on slicks, the clunk returned.

I swapped out those front bolts again, and it instantly vanished and hasn’t returned since due to less track use.

It appears that on track using slicks these bolts are a consumable for me!
Scary thought, but it actually appears to eat them! :wtf:

badger5 · Oct 8, 2015

slicks = massive loads

superkarl · Oct 8, 2015

Prawn said:
I refused to believe it myself. Someone said it would be the cause, so I got under there with the breaker bar and tightened the **** out of them. It didn’t cure the clunk, so I tightened them even more. Still didn’t cure it.

I decided it could be movement in the rear bushes, so made reinforcing plates and welded them into the subframe, then cranked the living hell out of the bolts, and still the clunk didn’t go away.

I finally gave in and replaced the front bolts for new OE, torqued to OE spec which I believe was 50lbft + 90 degrees, and the clunk vanished instantly!

Around a year later of hard abuse and trackdays on slicks, the clunk returned.

I swapped out those front bolts again, and it instantly vanished and hasn’t returned since due to less track use.

It appears that on track using slicks these bolts are a consumable for me!
Scary thought, but it actually appears to eat them!

What on earth happens to these bolts to cause this?! So odd.

Thanks for the torque specs aswell, that was my next question

Also, to add, whilst I don't have slicks nor the braking power of the mighty A3, I have 595rsr and this first occurred when I tested my brakes for the first time, and manifested from then on.

Prawn · Oct 8, 2015

Bolt on the left is around a year old:

Loads when running slicks are scary as Bill says!

snowy · Oct 8, 2015

Prawn said:
these bolts are a consumable for me!
Scary thought, but it actually appears to eat them!

Consumable for everyone - stretch bolts

Only designed to work within a set torque range, and only torqued up onced

badger5 · Oct 8, 2015

Prawn said:
Bolt on the left is around a year old:

Loads when running slicks are scary as Bill says!

thats quite some waisting on that bolts shank..

Prawn · Oct 9, 2015

snowy said:
Consumable for everyone - stretch bolts

Only designed to work within a set torque range, and only torqued up onced

More consumable for me it seems, in that they are installed, torqued, and then subsequently destroyed by the insane loading of slicks.

badger5 said:
thats quite some waisting on that bolts shank..

I must admit that one had probably been cranked up beyond specified torque a few times. I believe the clunk in most cases is down to the re-use of stretch bolts, and the waisting on that bolt shows what's occuring every time they're re-used!

The evil that is slicks just seems to accelerate the issue in my case.

I did consider replacing them for a shanked 12.9, but as I've done little mileage this year I've remained clunk free!

Goubo1 · Oct 10, 2015

superkarl said:
Few cool things happening before its on the road. Firstly these:

More details on those when I have all the parts.

Even more cool is this:

Very handy gadget.

Also decided to get the wheels refurbed before I fit these:

As they are very scruffy and the body isn't in the best shape so I can at least make an effort with the wheels.

Oh the subframe bushes, last I heard 034 were going to talk to there engineers about what's wrong with them. I know what's wrong with them, they're not deep enough to actually fit the subframe. But as they say 'it's easy for me to conclude that with both parts in front of me' whatever that means.

What do you think of the micro start xp1 ?

superkarl · Oct 10, 2015

Goubo1 said:
What do you think of the micro start xp1 ?

Well, I haven't had to jump start the car yet. But it's brilliant little gadget. I've grabbed my laptop to scan the car a few times and it's been flat, plug it into the laptop and its on straight away. Handy for charging phones too. And the torch is brilliant when I've needed one to look at something on the car.

snowy · Oct 13, 2015

Prawn said:
I did consider replacing them for a shanked 12.9, but as I've done little mileage this year I've remained clunk free!

Be careful changing bolts types

If the bolt is stronger than the items its bolting together they will get damaged before the bolt

The resulting damage will probably be more expensive/PITA to fix than replacing bolts

If you do try a stronger bolt, I'd recommend strengthening the bolt hole with a helicoil too, if possible

A stretch bolt with a just a moderately higher torque loading would be ideal I suspect - you're issue clearly insn't strength related - otherwise those bolts would sheer

-ask an engine builder - they should know bolts

superkarl · Oct 13, 2015

Just because they don't shear doesn't mean they don't deform tho.
Mine is 100% over tightened as when looking for this clunk I went over everything with the impact gun a dozen times.

Still not got round to ordering the bolts

vivalacoulter · Oct 13, 2015

Gops said:
When I had a clunk under accelerating and braking it drove me nuts!! Found out to be the dv hitting the strut brace! Haha felt like a right ****!

Mine used to do this! Nice fix mind haha.

superkarl · Oct 16, 2015

I pressure tested my pipe work tonight, as I'm missing up to 5 psi, 29 vs 24, and this has taken the car from ballistic, to just plain fast, and we can't have that.

My pressure testers worked well, I had a secret weapon in the form of a can of hairspray, if any of you were bikers/bmxer as kids this is a great trick to get grips on and the spray sets like glue, good for boost pipes!

One of them did fly out at 1bar and went about 30ft across the room so you do have to be careful.

Anyway I blocked up the turbo outlet joiner, and the throttle body, and pressurised it from the TB side to approx 23psi (too scared to take it to 2 bar), And sprayed every join with soapy water to look for bubbling.

That's at a pressure of 4-5 psi. This struck me as odd as boost in that port should theoretically slam the valve shut, clearly not.
Important to note there was nothing applied via the vac port, so I attached a small vac line tester to this and wound that up to 32psi, and this aided in keeping the valve shut properly.
But I'm unsure if this would cause problems under real driving conditions.

Anyway in terms of other leaks, I fixed what I found last time with 2 stainless JCS clamps

And I found a pin hole leak on a weld:

Not severe enough to cause the loss of boost I have I'm sure you'll agree.

The result of all this is that I'm still only peaking at about 24psi

which makes me sad.

I managed to get a few half turns on inlet mani bolts but this has made no difference.

I'm stuck now and don't know what to do. Going to email Rick and see what he suggests

<tuffty/> · Oct 16, 2015

I would imagine fixed duty (open loop) control would haev been used to keep you up at 29psi... hardware will have settled a bit now and enevitably boost for a given duty will drop off a bit..

The effect varies, 5psi is quite a bit but maybe because of the internal gate... actuator gone a little soft no doubt and means it will open for for the same duty plus it may also be being blow open a little more top end due to being softer..

Maybe worth asking to confirm if fixed duty on your mapping but suspect a bit more preload maybe required

<tuffty/>

superkarl · Oct 16, 2015

<tuffty/> said:
I would imagine fixed duty (open loop) control would haev been used to keep you up at 29psi... hardware will have settled a bit now and enevitably boost for a given duty will drop off a bit..

The effect varies, 5psi is quite a bit but maybe because of the internal gate... actuator gone a little soft no doubt and means it will open for for the same duty plus it may also be being blow open a little more top end due to being softer..

Maybe worth asking to confirm if fixed duty on your mapping but suspect a bit more preload maybe required

<tuffty/>

I tested actuator pressure and this appears to be unchanged, not sure if that confirms anything.
Another thing to note is in high gears (5 and 6) it will now surge and flutter about at around 25 psi. Before hand it actually held about 30psi in higher gears and absolutely took off.

superkarl · Oct 23, 2015

I've just fitted new wishbone bolts.
The clunk is still there. I might need to drive it abit more but it seems to be improved. I think il end up replacing every single bolt on the damn thing.
It has new subframe bolts and now new from wishbone bolts. Rear ones next.
Also got a part number for the transfer box bracket so il try that too.

I also changed the oil and filter while I was there. Fuchs Titan race. I've done 2500 miles and thought I'd make the first synthetic change early instead of my usual 5k.

superkarl · Oct 27, 2015

DOH
At least I've found my zorst leak. Need to up my bolting game. That was a K-nut with a schnorr washer.
It doesn't blow when hot which tells me the gasket is intact and the other 3 bolts are tight as.

At least he's shiny:

badger5 · Oct 27, 2015

best get used to nuts and studs coming loose dude.
thats why I binned off my t3 setup for vband.

Prawn · Oct 27, 2015

The ability of a red hot 20vt to u do feck off great bolts is terrifying!

My car is probably 5kg lighter than when it left the factory mainly due to bolts falling out :laugh:

Good luck in your quest for boost Karl, even if the actuator is cracking open at the same pressure, it's still plausible that the spring has weakened off a tad now it's all settled a bit

superkarls overhaul

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