TQS track car project - extremely slow progress

Don't think it will ever be finished :) Still plenty to do but the main things are sorted. Hopefully next track day will go better than the last one with rubbish tyres.
 
i've got one coming up soon, with rubbish tyres and rubbish brakes :p

At least i managed to get the ABS sorted though!
 
You should come down south a bit like oulton park or cadwell for next one @aragorn ;) I'm aiming for 2nd-3rd week of August, depending on work.
 
Car isnt road legal, which would mean towing it down.

Towing is hard work, your limited to 60mph, and are constantly having to deal with other utter mong drivers.

When your in a car, you dont really notice, as your doing 70+ and drive past them all without thinking. When your pulling a trailer, your in this vehicle thats not manoeverable, has no power and no accelleration, but to many other road users just looks like any other car. We've all had that "rageface" when a lorry pulls out and overtakes another lorry doing 0.1mph faster, but the same thing happens when your towing, your sat there, trying to stick to the 60 limit, and find Mrs Mavis doing 59. Find a gap, wind it up to a sketchy 65 and start overtaking and Mrs Mavis decides shes doing to now do 64.9, and your left stuck out there with folk up your **** as your now blocking the ****** road and not making any progress.

I can only imagine what driving a truck for a living must be like, its certainly an eye opener.
 
I know exactly what you mean.
That used to be my setup when I was dealing with cars. Try getting that around centre of London during rush hours. Pain in the bum!
 
I'm sitting staring at that trying to figure out what the tow car is, but i've no idea :p

My setup is somewhat shitter:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/941jzwlusv4rx75/2015-02-28 10.12.35.jpg?dl=0

I really should have bought a long wheelbase trooper, the SWB one is quite uncomfy, and its also ****** noisey inside. But then, my crieteria when buying it was "the cheapest thing on ebay that will pull 3 tonnes" :p

The trailer i think also needs a new damper or maybe the whole coupling. Need to have an investigate as theres some slack in it.
 
aragorn said:
I'm sitting staring at that trying to figure out what the tow car is, but i've no idea :p

My setup is somewhat shitter:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/941jzwlusv4rx75/2015-02-28 10.12.35.jpg?dl=0

I really should have bought a long wheelbase trooper, the SWB one is quite uncomfy, and its also ****** noisey inside. But then, my crieteria when buying it was "the cheapest thing on ebay that will pull 3 tonnes" :p

The trailer i think also needs a new damper or maybe the whole coupling. Need to have an investigate as theres some slack in it.
Click to expand...

2006 2.5tdi touareg. The trailer was IforWilliams 16ft one with tilt bed. I've managed to fit a mwb transit on it :) But had plenty of issues with the trailer and it was only 2 years old. Changed pretty much everything electric and hydraulic on it.
 
Guys, I am getting a lot of squeeking from what I believe is the rear suspension. It is only when I turn left or right. Is it possible that the bushes are making that sound? It is ****** loud. Didnt have that before changing bushes, rear brakes and bearings.
 
Did you Cooper grease you your metal inserts in your bushes
 
Garage did the bushes in the end as I couldn't get the buggers out. There was quite a lot of grease on them when I picked them up.
 
Normal bushes. Meyle and lemforder. Stupidly loud! Is there any way to fix it without taking them out?
 
rubber bushes wont creak then.

The usual one is the conical washer on the upper outer bush being installed the wrong way round. The cone shuld taper away from the arm, many folk install it so its touching the arm and that makes it squeak.
 
Will have a look on sunday when i get home. My altea gave up ghost again so had to take a4 to work.
 
Make sure they were tightened with the wheels at ride height. If they were tightened with the wheels off the ground they may creak as there will be more than the normal amount of distortion, which is a recipe for premature failure.
 
Finally had some time to work on the car today. Had a look at the rear suspension and all looks good. Sprayed a lot of lithium grease around the bushes and I think the squeeking is pretty much all gone.



I also finally changed the wheels. I've put my brand spanking new 10mm H&R spacers on and while tightening the wheel bolts by hand, I heard a loud bang. Wheels were still in the air. Took them off to find this!

Not very happy about that! Will be contacting DPM to see what they say about this.
Went back to 12mm spacers and fitted new wheels.




And also fitted the short shifter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bradderz_1988 and AlexA4Avant
Looks like the spigot was longer that the spacer allowed for and bottomed out on the inside. Some companies only sell 12mm upwards for the B5 for that reason.
 
aragorn said:
Looks like the spigot was longer that the spacer allowed for and bottomed out on the inside. Some companies only sell 12mm upwards for the B5 for that reason.
Click to expand...
That might be true, but I am running B6 front uprights and ordered spacers for B6. 12 and 15mm are fine for over a year now.
 
just measure the amount the spigot sticks out, vs the inset on the spacer. They're probably slightly different. Seen it a few times with spacers at the thin end of hubcentrics range
 
  • Like
Reactions: slepy
Well, looks like I'm £90 down!
 
They not honouring the warranty?

I've always used ebay cheapie spacers, no point paying twice as much for the H&R ones, especially if they wont honour the warranty for failures.
 
I had some cheap spacers crack before that's why I wanted something that is TUV approved. But don't see the point now!
 
I ran 8mm H&R spacers for over 2 years with no issues on standard B5 S4 hubs, had them all round with my B7 Multispokes and on the rear with my 3SDMs
 
Random question regarding your gear stick... what's the thread diameter and pitch on an A4 B5? I've never been able to find out for certain, but you have!

I also have a mate who's obsessed with Zilla and part of me wants to stick a Zilla gear knob in my car to wind him up. :D
 
  • Like
Reactions: slepy
Supernaut said:
Random question regarding your gear stick... what's the thread diameter and pitch on an A4 B5? I've never been able to find out for certain, but you have!

I also have a mate who's obsessed with Zilla and part of me wants to stick a Zilla gear knob in my car to wind him up. :D
Click to expand...
If you order zilla one, just get VW fitting. They come without a thread so you might have to use silicone. I didn't have to because if you rotate the knob hard it will stay on it :)
 
Good day today. Finished work at 3pm and managed to do some work.
Secured some wiring inside the car and under the bonnet. Noticed that some of the welds on harness plates are getting a bit rusty inside and underneath the car because of scratched/missing paint. Cleaned them up and sprayed primer/paint and waxoil underneath.

Also removed remaining underbelly mounts that were scraping on speed bumps. Gave it a wash and sealed wheels. Ready for a 300 mile trip this tomorrow and Saturday.
 
Fair enough. I think some versions of the 8mm H&R were hubcentric, but not wheel-centric, if that makes sense?

IE they located snugly on the wheel hub, but did not provide the spigot for the wheel to locate onto the spacer.

Looks like they revised the design at some point to be both hub and wheel centric.
 
aragorn said:
M12 x 1.5 IIRC
Click to expand...

You're so useful!
I'll stop hi-jacking the thread now, but I've added an 8-ball gear knob to my watch list on ebay. Just like the one I had in the MX-5 I used to own a couple of years back, but in M12 x 1.5!

Keep at it Slepy! It's looking better than mine at the moment (which is off the road until my replacement left rear caliper turns up, due to the one on there seizing up / dragging pretty badly).
 
  • Like
Reactions: slepy
Mallory Park booked for 24th September :)
 
Quite a good combination of cars but only one Audi and only 2 VAG! 3 places left !
 
I've enjoyed reading this thread, so thanks to all, and have embarked on a somewhat similar journey building up my AEB engined A4 1.8TQ for a track day car, but at this stage will be keeping it road registered and leaving the aircon connected and all the interior stuff in.
My car allegedly has a stage 1 MTM chip in it, so it will be interesting to see where the following engine mods take me.

I am currently installing a DSR K04R turbo and a Manzo (Ebay) 3" cat replacement downpipe. In removing the existing turbo's oil return line from the side of the sump I noticed there was no gasket on the flange. Can anybody who has done this confirm what is used to seal this joint on their car?
 
  • Like
Reactions: slepy
Definitely no gasket, but I will fit one when I re install it. Thanks.

I am currently at the stage of turning the engine over with the coils diconnected so the oil will prime the new turbo, I have the turbo oil inlet pipe loose so I can see when it is pumping, after which I will tighen it and loosen the return line to verify that the turbo lubrication circuit is working ok.
It is taking a while to prime, so I have the battery on charge overnight, and will remove the plugs so there is less drain on the batter when I attemp it tomorrow.
 
Just put vagcom on and read measuring block for oil pressure and it will give you indication when correct oil pressure is reached, also just disconnect the crank sensor it will stop fuelling no need to disconnect all 4 coils then.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Supernaut
The Snotmobile TQS (slow progress)
Replies
13
Views
2K
Oranoco
Oranoco
olds_kool
tqs budget track day car
Replies
63
Views
13K
olds_kool
olds_kool
MaverickTDi
New TQS Owner & Project
Replies
173
Views
17K
midas
M
mikeyorion
a4 1.8 tqs project
Replies
96
Views
10K
mikeyorion
mikeyorion
Broken Byzan
TQS progress thread, From STD-Scroll-Eliminator.
Replies
741
Views
158K
Broken Byzan
Broken Byzan
Top
Back