Time for a build thread....big turbo

grchmason said:
They never really worked most of us ended up covering them from water and of course the toe rags up to no good lol!
Click to expand...
So its been done?!! I was only joking. I didn't honestly think anyone would be mad enough to do it to an S3! Just not that sort of car.
S3Alex said:
I don't think I could .....
Click to expand...
Quite right too!
 
curlo said:
So its been done?!! I was only joking. I didn't honestly think anyone would be mad enough to do it to an S3! Just not that sort of car.

Quite right too!
Click to expand...
It's been done and it looks shocking thread on here somewhere
 
Smirky said:
It's been done and it looks shocking thread on here somewhere
Click to expand...

I remember the one.....it's not a good look on this car.

The old Escort suited it pretty well,but as grchmason says it always ended up with water getting in as well as hot air getting out.

Didn't bother me too much as it had a carbon turbo cover etc,and it had lived on the rally circuit before I got hold of it anyway.
I've posted this up before but the look says it all....

 
  • Like
Reactions: Jake 61, grchmason and Smirky
Easy to look back and wish you'd done something different,but as the AP kit wasn't ready at the time,I went with what was available,and it did OK for a while.

That said,the combination of the rear Forge 4 pot kit,and the front 6 pot AP kit is already way better than what was on there before,with better feel and bite,even before the pads are properly bedded in.

Gave it a few decent warm ups from increasing speeds this morning,and it's easy to feel it improving all the time.
The old kit is so much scrap now,as it can't be refurbished,whereas everything on the AP kit is either replaceable or can be serviced.

I need to give my thanks to Alan at AP Racing,for looking up someone who might have stock within AP's 6 week build time,and to Tim at Circuit Supplies for sending the unused kit over to AMD at very short notice,and getting me safely on the road so quickly.
 
Out of interest Alex what was it about the VWR calipers that failed?
 
S3_Mat said:
Out of interest Alex what was it about the VWR calipers that failed?
Click to expand...

It's difficult to show in pictures but basically the part of the caliper nearest to the bellhousing had worn and was not retaining the pads properly,allowing them to scrape on the bellhousing.
 
Allman45 said:
My battery went today at 70k lol. Hope it's the battery and not alternator anyway
Click to expand...

Turned out to be the starter motor.

AMD haven't seen one fail at my sort of mileage before so I think it's the cars revenge for what I've done to it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TorqueTerrorist
You using the ebc yellow stuff pads that came with the rear setup ?
 
Have you looked at Carbone Lorraine pads? I had them on my S14 and they were incredible. Only problem was lots of brake dust. I switched to them from Yellow Stuff and the difference was amazing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: S3Alex
PippinR said:
Have you looked at Carbone Lorraine pads? I had them on my S14 and they were incredible. Only problem was lots of brake dust. I switched to them from Yellow Stuff and the difference was amazing.
Click to expand...

I haven't but will look into that.

I'd used Pagid and Mintex on previous cars,and Mintex 1155s on this one.
I think I'll see how the new sets of pads and brakes bed in on this after the brake upgrades and then look into getting a set of pads made up for the rear brakes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PippinR
S3Alex said:
Turned out to be the starter motor.

AMD haven't seen one fail at my sort of mileage before so I think it's the cars revenge for what I've done to it.
Click to expand...

Haha fair enough. Atleast it wasnt a big repair bill anyway.
 
  • Like
Reactions: S3Alex
Allman45 said:
Haha fair enough. Atleast it wasnt a big repair bill anyway.
Click to expand...

Too right.

It only cost a couple of hundred bucks,compared to my nightmare of the ECU or something else going up in smoke.

It does go down the road nicely now.

Brakes improving as they bed in....so much better than what was on there before.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Allman45
Perhaps it's time to revise the lists of parts,suppliers,and helpful people.

So much has changed since I bought the car,and found all of you here,and at VAGOC,that it seems the right time to put a few lists back in order.

Tuning companies:

AMDTuning,Essex.
www.amdtuning.com
Contacts: Ben and Shuan


Storm Developments
www.stormdevelopments.co.uk
Contacts: Andy

These are the only two I've used,and I cannot fault either,and I am sure that separately,or between them,they can build anything to your requirements.


Parts:

Turbos:
Owen Developments
http://www.owendevelopments.co.uk/
Contact: Scott Hawkins.

Just excellent.


Brakes:
AP Racing
https://www.apracing.com/
Contact: Alan

Circuit Supplies(AP Stockist)
http://www.circuitsupplies.com/


Engine Internals:
Integrated Engineering
www.performancebyie.com
Contact: Cassidy

USP Motorsports
http://www.uspmotorsports.com/

Both IE and USP stock a huge range of parts, up to complete engines in the case of IE,and ship very quickly.

PEC pistons and rods
http://www.steelconrods.co.uk/


Exhaust:
Nortech Performance
http://www.nortechperformance.com/
Contact: Alan


Intake manifold:
Boulekos Dynamic
http://www.boulekosdynamic.com/en/
Contact: Alex Boulekos


ECU:
Syvecs...this thing is amazing.
http://www.syvecs.co.uk/products/engine-management-system/tfsi-range-vag-group/


Intercooler:
ProAlloy
http://www.proalloy.co.uk/


Other parts:
Forge Motorsport
www.forgemotorsport.co.uk


Water/meth:
AEM kit.
http://www.advancedme.co.uk/

Differential:
Quaife
http://quaife.co.uk/


I've done business with all of these people personally,and can vouch for their service and the quality of their products,and have no affiliations with any,so you can be sure I'm not pimping their stuff.

For anyone wanting the best out of their S3 or TFSi,these are the parts and the people who can get you there.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Jake 61, grchmason, Mario8P and 1 other person
Thanks Alex for taking the time to share this list!
I have a quick questions about your new AP racing brakes.
1. Did you retain your OEM dust shields? Are are they gone now?
2. Do the AP racing pads have wear sensors? Or did the VWR pads have them? Or are you driving around with an error message on your gauge cluster?

Thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: S3Alex
Stig555 said:
Thanks Alex for taking the time to share this list!
I have a quick questions about your new AP racing brakes.
1. Did you retain your OEM dust shields? Are are they gone now?
2. Do the AP racing pads have wear sensors? Or did the VWR pads have them? Or are you driving around with an error message on your gauge cluster?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Hi there...thank you.

This place and VAGOC have given me so much help,that if I feed a bit back,it may be useful to others.

There are no dust shields now,anywhere.

The AP pads,and the kit before had no wear sensors,so those have to be sorted out....I think by simply disconnecting the sensor wires,but AMD would know how it's done,I dont!

So basically,no errors,just smooth progressive braking and no horrible grinding sounds from the old calipers.
 
Here's something I don't understand,(among the many things I don't get...)

Since swapping to Motul 300V,and changing the ECU and turbo,the amount of muck collecting in the catch can has gone right down,and there's less water in the condensate.

I can see why there might be less water if the oil composition and breakdown products are different,but why so much less stuff overall?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Smirky
You sir are going to be the sole reason I will have no money left.As for the less amount of crap build up could purely be down to the better set up you have
 
  • Like
Reactions: S3Alex and Smirky
Maybe it's a combination of things Alex and it's just running really well so not so much wastage
 
  • Like
Reactions: S3Alex
Maybe warmer weather less condensation ...... either way its great news for you mate less emptying lol!
 
  • Like
Reactions: S3Alex
I don't think it's down to weather,as it's been hot/cold,wet/dry and all that's changed is the amount of muck has decreased.

Whatever,it's good,as the stuff is pretty nasty.

Car is as smooth as a 4 cylinder is ever going to be,and pulls so much better than it ever did,so I can't complain.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Smirky and grchmason
Well my yearly oil and filter change is due regardless of my 400 miles only covered this year :tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:

in light of this I will be using Motul 300v Oil :) as if not weather I think it could well be the oil......... Opie oils here I come :sunglasses:
 
grchmason said:
Well my yearly oil and filter change is due regardless of my 400 miles only covered this year :tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:

in light of this I will be using Motul 300v Oil :) as if not weather I think it could well be the oil......... Opie oils here I come :sunglasses:
Click to expand...

I think that despite the cost,it's great stuff.

Miller Nanotech would be the other choice.
 
  • Like
Reactions: grchmason
Very likely to be the oil. The stuff a catch can collects is a mixture of oil mist that it blown up by a falling piston creating pressure in the crankcase, and any tiny amounts of fuel (burnt or unburnt) that manage to "blow-by" the piston rings. If an oil has a better sealing characteristic on the cylinder walls then it will reduce the tiny amount of fuel blow-by (this wouldn't be noticeable in the catch can) or more likely it is less volatile (lets off less gas) so it is less likely to remain as a mist suspended in the air filling the crankcase and falls back towards the sump before it can be pulled out the ventilation. So as the crankcase vent lets off excess pressure it takes less oil with it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mario8P and S3Alex
PippinR said:
Very likely to be the oil. The stuff a catch can collects is a mixture of oil mist that it blown up by a falling piston creating pressure in the crankcase, and any tiny amounts of fuel (burnt or unburnt) that manage to "blow-by" the piston rings. If an oil has a better sealing characteristic on the cylinder walls then it will reduce the tiny amount of fuel blow-by (this wouldn't be noticeable in the catch can) or more likely it is less volatile (lets off less gas) so it is less likely to remain as a mist suspended in the air filling the crankcase and falls back towards the sump before it can be pulled out the ventilation. So as the crankcase vent lets off excess pressure it takes less oil with it.
Click to expand...

Nicely put.

To back that up the oil consumption has dropped a bit as well,which is also a good thing.
On the previous setup,the average was getting on for about 0.5L/500-600 miles and now it's about 0.5L/1000 miles or thereabouts.
 
I'm now using and will use from now on Motul sport 5/40 :)
It has the Esther in it too!
 
audi upgrades
Now I may sound stupid here but I currently run 5/30 what's the diff between 5/30 vs 5/40 ?
 
Smirky said:
Now I may sound stupid here but I currently run 5/30 what's the diff between 5/30 vs 5/40 ?
Click to expand...

You need the oil gurus here....

My basic understanding is they both have the same cold start viscosity,but the 5/40 will stay maintain better viscosity at high temperatures.

Now you're going to make me need to go and check the tin.....
 
  • Like
Reactions: Smirky
So anything above standard power better to go to 5/40 as I assume the car runs hotter even at stage 1???
 
Smirky said:
So anything above standard power better to go to 5/40 as I assume the car runs hotter even at stage 1???
Click to expand...

That's really something you'd need to discuss with your tuner I think.

I had used the usual Shell Helix/Castrol synthetics up till this round of mods.
The car's crank and cams were found to be within original tolerances on every occasion that it's been pulled apart,including when the head was off last year for the attempted cam change.

This oil was recommended by Storm Developments after the fairly radical changes early this year,adding over 20% to power and torque,so they felt a swap to a race oil would be sensible.
 
S3Alex said:
You need the oil gurus here....

My basic understanding is they both have the same cold start viscosity,but the 5/40 will stay maintain better viscosity at high temperatures.

Now you're going to make me need to go and check the tin.....
Click to expand...

Basically there. The first number with the W (which stands for winter) refers to the oils viscosity at 0degC. The second number refers to the viscosity at 100degC. For both the lower the number the thinner the oil. However the numbers don't mean the same thing. So 10W-40 doesn't mean it is thinner when cold. It gets confusing. So a 5w oil will be thinner than a 10w oil on start up and very cold conditions which allows it to get all around the smaller oil galleries quicker when the oil is cold and thick (told you it gets confusing). Once up to temperature the second number comes into play. At this point the oil is thinner but the numbers are generally higher, ignore than fact and consider them differently. Again a lower number means thinner oil. So at 100degC a 30 will be thinner than a 40. The reason for going higher is to ensure the oil stays thick at higher temperatures to maintain oil pressure.

So to answer Smirky's comment of which to use at stage one... Well the first number doesn't really matter what stage you are at since you shouldn't be driving hard on a cold engine anyway. So its more determined by the weather. In England we don't get much variation in temperature. Its usually between 0 and 25degC so no need to change oils between summer and winter. And since it doesn't really drop below 0 much 10W is probably fine I prefer to go for 5W but that's personal preference. For the second number. Stage one really isn't much higher than standard, that being said it wouldn't hurt to up a grade at that stage but only 1. Remember too high a number and oil will be too thick to reach everywhere and too low a number it will be too thin to maintain oil pressure.
 
  • Like
Reactions: S3Alex
OK so end up the month my bcs exhaust is being fitted and will be mapped to about 310-315HP so if I start using 5w40 it will be fine unless it starts getting really cold this winter ??? Or should I stick with 5w30???
 
You really don't need to go to 0w in the UK so 5w-40 will be fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: S3Alex
Thanks PippinR...I thought I was on the right track,but you've put it very nicely.
 
audi upgrades
Smirky said:
OK now I'm more confused your chucking 0w40 into the mix
Click to expand...

I think as PippinR said,you don't need to consider a 0w40 oil for the UK.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PippinR
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
Recommendation on big turbo build for S3
Replies
2
Views
1K
S3Alex
S3Alex
Samy boi
Time has come for my S3 build thread!
Replies
59
Views
9K
Samy boi
Samy boi
Youngman
What a mess- time for a BIG change!!!
Replies
52
Views
4K
NHN
NHN
ColganRaz
Finally time for a progress thread!
Replies
3
Views
1K
ColganRaz
ColganRaz
R
Build Time for the S3?
Replies
7
Views
1K
giblets46
giblets46
Top
Back