Aussie big turbo Audi S3

Jenno007

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Hi Guys,

The date has been finalised and I am starting work on my Audi S3 build Wednesday the 1st of July. So I figure I may as well start a build thread. I'm doing things a little bit differently than other people on the forum. Below is a list of the spec of my car, and I will take photos as I go so people can see the parts I'm using.

Here is a photo of most of the stuff. Still waiting for valves, cams, ID2000 injectors, ARBs, radiator and a few other misc items.

fa34b08e1d2aafe37b2c186389066ac6.jpg



Build Spec:

Suspension:
AP Coilovers
H&R ARB's (25mm front, 21mm rear)
KW Adjustable rear tie arms
Superpro poly bushes throughout
FK Drop links
Brakes:
ECS Stage 3 front brake kit
ECS Stage 1 rear brake kit​

Engine:
Mishimoto Radiator (tried to get a Direnza but after 4 months didn't have any luck)
Vibratechnics road engine mounts
Garret GTX3071r 63ar T3 flange
CTS Turbo Kit
New custom S/S hardlines and teflon braided hose (oil and coolant lines)
FX400 Ceramic 6 Puck Sprung Disc with Single Mass Steel Flywheel
83mm JE Pistons (9.5:1)
Calico coated bearings, tool steel wrist pins
ARP studs
Full supertech valvetrain, springs & retainers
IE Street cams
ID2000 injectors
Devils own WMI with boost switch and solenoid (unsure if I'll use this due to e85, need to discuss further with tuner)
Forge baffled sump
ECU:
Vi-Pec elite ECU (plug in and play)
Flex sensor (ability to run any mixture of e85 and 98ron fuel
New AIT sensor to hopefully eliminate heat soak issues of stock sensor
Maf-less tune (will still run a DV, don't want too much attention)
There is much more that I have forgotten and I will add to the list as I go on. If anyone has any questions regarding my build feel free to ask them. I'm all about people giving their opinions as well.

I know some of the choices regarding components wont be the most popular but each to their own.

If anyone has any insight on using WMI with e85, and specifically what ratio of meth/water works best I would love for you to give me some input. Due to me living in Australia it gets very hot, so the WMI is just to keep intake temps reasonable on hot days. It's not something I will use every day.
 
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Look forward to the thread :)

Good luck with it!!
 
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Yeah. Keeping 3 bar fpr and id1000s would be at the limit (possibly not even enough according to my tuner). So thought I'd just be safe and get id2000s (they should still idle fine)
 
Few photos of the turbo kit

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Brand new, never before used cylinder head
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Clutch, flywheel and pressure plate
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All the rides together
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Solid build.
Although, doesn't the CTS kit come with a puny 2.5inch downpipe. Might want to change that

Thanks. Yes it does unfortunately. Once it's bolted to the engine I'll see how much room there is. If there is sufficient space I'll get a 3" down pipe custom made. Although, over 500bhp has been made on the 2.5" down pipe. It is probably the main weak point of my build.
 
Mine made 500+ on the 2.5 down pipe but this was the problem with mine and the fuel that it didn't make any more then it did.

If I were you get it up and running and get a custom 3 inch one made to help the Turbo.
 
Mine made 500+ on the 2.5 down pipe but this was the problem with mine and the fuel that it didn't make any more then it did.

If I were you get it up and running and get a custom 3 inch one made to help the Turbo.

500hp is more than I'm aiming for, although it would be good to get rid of an obvious restriction. I will see how it goes/how much room there is for a 3" pipe around the steering rack with everything in place
 
There is loads of room. Don't know why they just didn't make a 3 inch option with the kit.

Not many Right hand drive S3's over there.

Clay told me there wasn't enough room. Glad you seem to think there is enough room, I do remember you saying you had to drop the engine 10mm.

Are you still progressing towards e85?
 
2.5" downpipe is rediculous size for that size of turbo. - 500bhp Andrew ALD... you think?

Good luck with the CTS bits lining up when you get to mock it up

been there, done that... utterly disappointed in their quality of fitment.

merge collector tubular manifold by far better flowing
 
2.5" downpipe is rediculous size for that size of turbo. - 500bhp Andrew ALD... you think?

Good luck with the CTS bits lining up when you get to mock it up

been there, done that... utterly disappointed in their quality of fitment.

merge collector tubular manifold by far better flowing

My biggest concern at the moment is the parts not lining up. I've spoke to a few people who have used the kit who had good results. I'm hoping any issues have been sorted.

Tubular manifold has benefits as well as disadvantages. This isn't to break power records please keep that in mind


Edit: the other silver car I posted above has more power than any 1.8t I've ever seen ;)
 
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It did make 500bhp on the 2.5 down pipe

Really did strangle the turbo but managed to get 531... Just never kept the dyno sheet to prove it and 500 wasn't my goal for my engine..
 
Clay told me there wasn't enough room. Glad you seem to think there is enough room, I do remember you saying you had to drop the engine 10mm.

Are you still progressing towards e85?

There is and i have a 3 inch down pipe on it now

Engine was dropped down 10mm for clearance reasons i.e. the turbo hitting the bulk head

Some say the is more room in a TT bay with this kit?
 
My biggest concern at the moment is the parts not lining up. I've spoke to a few people who have used the kit who had good results. I'm hoping any issues have been sorted.

Tubular manifold has benefits as well as disadvantages. This isn't to break power records please keep that in mind


Edit: the other silver car I posted above has more power than any 1.8t I've ever seen ;)
the tubulars we use vs a cts kit is a no brainer.. Sadly the CTS kits fitment issues and tiny downpipe make it a dud of a product.

Quality of fitment what shocking on CTS kit, particularly the external gate to downpipe.. Nothing lined up on the 2 x kits they sent me. even when it was modded to fit, its designed rendered the rocker cover trapped so you could not do anything like a cambelt or water pump without having to first remove the turb and downpipe and external gate first!. Very disapointing poorly thought out kit (for rhd cars). They were'nt particularly bothered nor cared. Simply spouted they have fitted fine elsewhere.. Which was clearly ******.

Hope you dont have these issues on your build. Dry build on an engine stand advised so check these things.
 
You could get the rocker cover off Bill.. It Just needed to modified by milling the lip off at the back were the gate sat. You must off been very unlucky as at the time mine fit without any issues at all..

Its different on mine now as most of its V Band
 
You could get the rocker cover off Bill.. It Just needed to modified by milling the lip off at the back were the gate sat. You must off been very unlucky as at the time mine fit without any issues at all..

Its different on mine now as most of its V Band

yea, unlucky perhaps.. Twice.. on 2 x sets of parts,... Was'nt just the gate the also the angle of the downpipe to gate outlet pipe.. Disaster.
buying a kit should not be down to luck. and the vendor should man up to his f*ck ups.. and he did'nt.
anyhows.. not to detract from jennos build thread. Hope his is all good.
 
Love how you refer to it as "the silver car" assuming not many of us pomms will know what a Ford Falcon is... And you're probably right to be fair! lol

Well done I'm impressed. Given they are made in Australia and only sold in Australia I wouldn't have thought many on this forum would recognise it. I'm glad you didn't say it's a holden commodore :p

the tubulars we use vs a cts kit is a no brainer.. Sadly the CTS kits fitment issues and tiny downpipe make it a dud of a product.

Quality of fitment what shocking on CTS kit, particularly the external gate to downpipe.. Nothing lined up on the 2 x kits they sent me. even when it was modded to fit, its designed rendered the rocker cover trapped so you could not do anything like a cambelt or water pump without having to first remove the turb and downpipe and external gate first!. Very disapointing poorly thought out kit (for rhd cars). They were'nt particularly bothered nor cared. Simply spouted they have fitted fine elsewhere.. Which was clearly ******.

Hope you dont have these issues on your build. Dry build on an engine stand advised so check these things.

Given your experiences I understand fully why you don't speak highly of the CTS turbo kit. I wouldn't have anything good to say about it either if I went through what you have with it. I just hope those issues have been sorted like I said above.

If not I've got a tig welder and a couple of mates who fabricate and weld pipes for a living. I'm sure I'll be able to get it sorted one way or another.
 
Going to a place called all star garage which is the local dealer for the ecu I purchased.

If you're going to get an aftermarket ecu it's important to choose your ecu and tuner together as some prefer different brands
 
Little bit of an update.

A partner at work needed me to do some things so it has put back the Audi for another week. The partners now away in India so no more delays!

Work starts tomorrow!

I made the most of the weekend and wired up an inline fuel pump. It makes a little bit of noise but I doubt I'll hear it by the time I get an exhaust.

I used a mixture of the method Tuffty and Prawn's methods for the wiring side of things. I'll post some pictures tomorrow!
 
So installing my inline fuel pump. You need the pump, a relay (mine had a 30amp fuse built in), and some wire.

I started with this diagram.

7LYLyHi.jpg


then under the dash I ran a wire from the bolt under the red "30" as they are constant lives. The yellow cuts when you're starting the car, so don't use that (all info and picture from tuffty's thread).

ZuqLH0x.jpg


Then I ran two wires from the existing fuel pump down to where the fuel filter is located. Make sure you know what wire is what as one will be positive and the other negative (earth).

tSLAnxV.jpg


Then I earthed the relay and fuel pump to the seat belt (common practice for amp installs)

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The final wire you need is something to tell the relay when to turn on and off. For this I spliced into the original fuel pump. I didn't cut the wire like shown in this picture, just spliced the rubber and soldered on a new wire. (picture and idea taken from Prawn's thread).

rZhf9i9.jpg


Using a fuel pump with the push fitting adapters makes this a breeze. Badger5 sells them. Plug it in, wire it up and you're ready to go.

You will then need to relocate your fuel filter somewhere else. Badger5 sell a smaller size filter to allow it to fit under your engine bay just before the fuel rail.

BUILD UPDATE:

I'm no mechanic, I am doing my build at a garage with a mechanic so he can do all the things I don't know how to. I've never taken an engine out before so he is telling me what order to take things out and what needs to be done. Tomorrow the engine is coming out and then will be sent to be bored out, and everything balanced. Apparently this will take a week :(

Some pictures

A few of the parts removed:

WfXNcnx.jpg


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Engine as it sits. One or two things to take off in the morning and she should lift out!

7cNxz1E.jpg
 
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there is a HEAP of grease, grime and dirt. Not a spec of rust though :D

I'll be giving the engine bay a good clean when the engine is out
 
The engine is out. Due to the CTS kit coming with a 2.5" down pipe I'm mocking it up to see how much room I'll have for a 3" down pipe. It looks like there should well and truly enough room.

a0a8e4c5d327514436bec2768d6d5159.jpg


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Some pictures. It all looks pretty nice to me! Still have to strip the engine and send it to be bored.
 
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Looking good dude, it'll be done in no time at this rate I'm looking forward to see how this turns out

Hope it all goes well for you Jenno
 
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Looking good dude, it'll be done in no time at this rate I'm looking forward to see how this turns out

Hope it all goes well for you Jenno

Thanks man. It might actually take a little longer than I originally thought. The block won't be sent until Monday and the the down pipe will take a week or so to be made. But then it should all move fairly quickly!
 
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you might want to spin the chra 180 degrees :)

Thanks mate :)

I'll make sure I don't forget

At the moment I'm just checking down pipe clearances. Even the compressor housing needs to be rotated a little but we put the charge pipe on only so we could take a few photos.

I'm excited to make some hardline SS coolant and oil drain lines. I'm sure once I start and realise it's not as easy as it looks I won't be so excited :p
 
Told my mechanic what you said Bill, and his words were:

"Don't sorry Sam, I'm not letting you assemble any of the important ****"
 
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Well it's been ages since I've posted here.. mainly because building an engine takes AGES.

The mechanic I have doing the work currently has three engines on the go (he runs his own business). Mine was sitting 3rd in the pecking order..

I helped him put an engine in a Golf R on the weekend, and he is finishing that off this week and next week, then its turn to get mine in the car.

It has all been built and dummy assembled.


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Some pictures of the mock up assembly
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Sure looks cool IMO.

One small downside is that the wastegate makes getting the cam cover off a pain.

Once it's built, in the car and everything is installed. We're going to make sure it starts and then get it towed to my factory unit where I will be welding up custom intercooler piping and turbo intake pipes. Then I'm going to make an air box or sorts to hide the pod filter (exposed pods are a big no-no here in Western Australia).

Then it will finally be time to go get it tuned!

Still not sure how I'm going to run it in. I know a lot of people on here have had quite a bit of success with running in their cars quite aggressively (wastegate pressure, normal rev limit, lots of throttle, lots of overrun). I think I will be going with something a lot those lines, although everyone over here seems to run a 4500rpm limit or there abouts.


Exciting times ahead
 
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