Mocal oil cooler questions!!

Shaun-84

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Evening all,

I have read the guide on here for fitting said oil cooler. I was wondering if the cooler has to mount with the pipes at the top as some of you have done or wether it can be mounted with the pipes at the bottom. As when doing an oil change surely there will be oil still in the cooler and pipes that wont drain out. Also which exit from the sandwich plate is the feed an return. Sorry if this sounds stupid just dont want to f**k it up lol.

Cheers
 
From what I understand oil coolers can be mounted anyway up, and oil is unlikely to drain anyway unless it's hot enough for the thermostat is open...

Also, why does it matter what is feed and return? . . Does your oil cooler have directional flow? :-/
 
From what I understand oil coolers can be mounted anyway up, and oil is unlikely to drain anyway unless it's hot enough for the thermostat is open...

Also, why does it matter what is feed and return? . . Does your oil cooler have directional flow? :-/
There is no markings on anything to dictate a direction of flow. Was just asking incase there was thats all. I Always run the car up to temp before dropping oil. A job for tomorrow then.
 
There is no markings on anything to dictate a direction of flow. Was just asking incase there was thats all. I Always run the car up to temp before dropping oil. A job for tomorrow then.

I was joking, your oil cooler is most definitely not directional!

Most oil coolers open at 80 degrees, so you'll have to go on a fair drive for it to be open and I doubt it will stay open for long after... To be completely honest though, I'm not 100% sure how the sandwich plate works, either way if you really want to drain your cooler you'll be best off doing in manually by removing the hoses.
 
I was joking, your oil cooler is most definitely not directional!

Most oil coolers open at 80 degrees, so you'll have to go on a fair drive for it to be open and I doubt it will stay open for long after... To be completely honest though, I'm not 100% sure how the sandwich plate works, either way if you really want to drain your cooler you'll be best off doing in manually by removing the hoses.
Lol you say that but my liquid gauge normally sits at 95-100 on motorways. An earlier today on a spirited drive i saw 108 degrees on oil and coolant. Using shell helix oil 5-40.
 
"lol" - Yes, i also have a liquid gauge, I'm well aware of what indicated oil temps do...

Either way, I'll be surprised if you'll get your cooler to drain properly without disconnecting a hose... Would be interested to see though.

Out of interest, where are you planning on mounting your cooler...
 
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"lol" - Yes, i also have a liquid gauge, I'm well aware of what indicated oil temps do...

Either way, I'll be surprised if you'll get your cooler to drain properly without disconnecting a hose... Would be interested to see though.

Out of interest, where are you planning on mounting your cooler...
Yer i think your right will be a bumper off job to drain the cooler. Have mounted it in front of radiator as pic below. Now time to have a drive n see the results. Pic is before i tidied the hoses etc.
 

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Yer i think your right will be a bumper off job to drain the cooler. Have mounted it in front of radiator as pic below. Now time to have a drive n see the results. Pic is before i tidied the hoses etc.

Nice, neat install... But seeing as your hoses go higher that the highest point of the cooler there is absolutely zero chance of any oil draining out the cooler.

Was just looking at this link though and it gave me an idea... If you remove the thermostat and then put the bung for the thermostat housing back in. Then take off the return pipe at the sandwich plate, with fresh oil in the sump get a mate to start the engine and run until you see clean oil coming out the return pipe, effectively bleeding the cooler and probably a lot easier than taking the bumper off.

That's how I'd do it anyway!
 
Nice, neat install... But seeing as your hoses go higher that the highest point of the cooler there is absolutely zero chance of any oil draining out the cooler.

Was just looking at this link though and it gave me an idea... If you remove the thermostat and then put the bung for the thermostat housing back in. Then take off the return pipe at the sandwich plate, with fresh oil in the sump get a mate to start the engine and run until you see clean oil coming out the return pipe, effectively bleeding the cooler and probably a lot easier than taking the bumper off.

That's how I'd do it anyway!
Nice one, cheers mate. Yer i did think that when installing it but there wasnt really anywhere to put it or to run pipes differently. Yer thats not a bad shout altho the its an a**e to get onto the nuts to remove a pipe on sandwhich plate. May just just shorten the services so it gets done more often. Going on a longer run tomorrow so be interesting what she sits at on motorway now. An hopefully it doesnt take to long to get warm in winter lol.
 
Silly question ALERT

How is the cooler supplied with oil? Where does it drain?
 
Im really interested in this. Recently fitted an oil temp gauge taking a reading from the sump, and when im giging it the beans the oil temp can reach 120 / 125 degrees C

Normal? Too Hot? If so Im going to get an oil cooler and change to race oil (currently quantum 5/40)
 
Im really interested in this. Recently fitted an oil temp gauge taking a reading from the sump, and when im giging it the beans the oil temp can reach 120 / 125 degrees C

Normal? Too Hot? If so Im going to get an oil cooler and change to race oil (currently quantum 5/40)

Most engine oils start degrading around 140/150 degrees C. So "too hot?", not necessarily, but those sorts of temperatures are obviously not ideal. . . And yes, I would say that is about normal for a tuned 1.8t after a good beansing!

What oil are you thinking of switching to? Is your car used daily?
 
I was thinking the Fuchs Titan or Gulf Racing? Any reccomendations welcome.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-2354-lo...:0,121879:0,122294:0,131668:0&yearFilter=2001


I think Im going to sort an oil cooler out on pay day, its just mounting thats going to be a nightmare with the wellycooler!

Mines a daily but is being used on trackdays, say one overy 2-3 months

@badger5 any reccomendation on oil cooler for my S3? (mine was the one getting hot on the dyno if you remember so I have started a war against heat)


Cheers lads
 
I was thinking the Fuchs Titan or Gulf Racing? Any reccomendations welcome.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-2354-lo...:0,121879:0,122294:0,131668:0&yearFilter=2001


I think Im going to sort an oil cooler out on pay day, its just mounting thats going to be a nightmare with the wellycooler!

Mines a daily but is being used on trackdays, say one overy 2-3 months

@badger5 any reccomendation on oil cooler for my S3? (mine was the one getting hot on the dyno if you remember so I have started a war against heat)


Cheers lads

Oh, I see... Still sticking with 5w40 then? I think some of the track guys run 10w50 or something, but 5w40 is deffs best for daily use. . . . I've heard great things about the Fuchs, although I've only ever used it about 10 years ago in my 16v Polo, seemed to make a difference though. Not sure if it was just a placebo but the engine just seemed more willing to rev
 
if fitting a mocal, they are meant to have the outlets pointing upwards. Im not entirely sure the reasoning behind it but they seemed quite insistent when i fitted mine to the race car

tom
 
16 or 19 row if you have somewhere to fit it where air will pass by
13/16 row mounted on top of FMIC we use, depends on height of fmic being used as to what can fit
 
I recall I think perhaps Bill saying that there's no point in anything smaller than a 16 row... No?
i ran 13 row for years on badgerwagen..
16 row now, slightly improved cooling..

max temp 115'c racing, 15 lap race - Actual race
 
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Search bar, there is a thread documenting the parts required and fitting. Also a good source for parts other than eBay that prawn recommends.
 
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if fitting a mocal, they are meant to have the outlets pointing upwards. Im not entirely sure the reasoning behind it but they seemed quite insistent when i fitted mine to the race car

tom

Just a thought on this, if the cooler was upside down I'd imagine it'd be prone to air locks as the oil coming in practically leaving straight away and also blocking the way for air to escape...

Having thought about this in more depth now, I'd say it's probably best to install with the both in/out at the top, or on it's side with inlet at the bottom and outlet at the top... That way oil doesn't actually leave the cooler until the cooler is full.

That being said there are plenty out there that have been installed upside down with no obvious side effects
 
Space and position availability normally dictates where it can go

<tuffty/>
 

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