A3 2.0 fsi won start just clicks and clocks reset

Buddis

Buddis

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Hie all, new to this site. I have an a3 2.0 fsi and last night I was driving in the roundabout then the car just cut out, tried to start it wouldn't turn just clicks and clocks reset to zero. Thought it maybe battery tried to jump start nothing swapped batteries with mates car still the same. Anyone been through the same situation any help or advice would be much appreciated
 
Sounds like a weak connection on a terminal somewhere. It could be at the battery which is most likely. You may even have to remove the connections and clean them up and reinstate. Don't forge to check where the negative terminal meets the body after leaving the battery - that's a likely one too. Hope you get it sorted ;)
 
greglogan said:
Sounds like a weak connection on a terminal somewhere. It could be at the battery which is most likely. You may even have to remove the connections and clean them up and reinstate. Don't forge to check where the negative terminal meets the body after leaving the battery - that's a likely one too. Hope you get it sorted ;)
Click to expand...
greglogan said:
Sounds like a weak connection on a terminal somewhere. It could be at the battery which is most likely. You may even have to remove the connections and clean them up and reinstate. Don't forge to check where the negative terminal meets the body after leaving the battery - that's a likely one too. Hope you get it sorted ;)
Click to expand...
Hie Greg I've checked the terminals cleaned them and stuff still the same result. Puzzled
 
That's strange. I've seen it happen a few times. The connections get dirty or loose and are able to pass current but when a high demand eg when starting is tried, the resistance goes up and acts like a flat battery. Have you actually removed the 3 connections then cleaned and reinstalled?
 
greglogan said:
That's strange. I've seen it happen a few times. The connections get dirty or loose and are able to pass current but when a high demand eg when starting is tried, the resistance goes up and acts like a flat battery. Have you actually removed the 3 connections then cleaned and reinstalled?
Click to expand...
I will remove and re-clean again just incase. It is very strange how it just cut out while driving. I have had these codes read p0404 and p0098.
 
P0404 relates to egr valve and p0098 relates to intake temperature. Beyond that I'm outta my depth. The fact the clock is resetting itself screams main electrical connection to me tho. I take it you've tried a different battery? Or put a voltmeter across the battery terminals while you try to start it. A weak battery would produce similar results.
 
I've had this exact issue on my own 2.0 FSI and it was ALL down to the battery, it was throwing error codes left right and centre and as soon as I replaced the battery all error codes were gone. If you have tried it under jump leads with aother car and it starts without any issues its down to the battery or your alternator. Take your car to Halfords for a free battery health check mate, If your Alternator is working it should have 14V in it and if the battery is dead then it will have 14Volts but very low amps...when I got mines checked it was supposed to have say 130+amps and actually had 38...you see the issue lol! get this sorted asap if it is the battery becuase my battery was sooo dead it stopped the central locking working and I had to get the RAC out to fix the issue by feeding the power back through the car by connecting one lead the body of the car and one lead to a part i.e. starter...so yeh this was alot of hassle lol let me know how you get on buddy.
 
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Right thanks lads have taken off all leads cleaned them even went to buy 2 batteries 1 for key fob and the other for the car, still no result. I am probably left with starter or alternator now, however my key fob will unlock with button but have to use the key to lock strange things happening. I am clueless now. But when I try to start it when it clicks after a little bit I can smell petrol I don't know why checked under car no leak..
 
Dont keep on trying to start if it keeps clicking, too many failed starts the engine could flood itself im sure, everytime you go to start petrol is released waiting to be ignited by the ignition. Definately sounds like a battery issue, if its clicking then its not a starter issue, thats the starter motor spinning trying to start its either your battery being dead or else your alternator is not charging the battery. I pray its the battery its much cheaper to replace!
 
Managed to change the battery and still nothing just clicks. Lost for words now. Checked all the fuses to next to the battery all seem to be ok.
 
Buddis said:
Managed to change the battery and still nothing just clicks. Lost for words now. Checked all the fuses to next to the battery all seem to be ok.
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ahhh ******, best thing i could suggest is to get a mechanic to have a look at it buddy! dont wanna keep spending money on possible fixes that wont fix it mate! let me know how u get on mate, hope u get it solved soon bud!
 
Yea that's my last option left thanks Sean.
 
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Good afternoon, I have read up on some other reviews and a few have mentioned a relay 109 fuse to be a common fault and similar symptoms but can't seem to find it. The picture I've attached are what's there
 

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you checked the fuses to the right hand side of the steering wheel like where the door shuts onto? the side trim pops off and reveals fuses?
 
Yea I've checked there too but going to try and pull them all and check manually if ok. If all fails will be a trip to a garage
 
I had a quick Google for the 109 relay problem and I think it's been changed in newer models. I'm at work and am not able to check, but the problem seems to be known about although I thought it was more related to diesels for some reason.

I did read somewhere about an earthing issue on a few cables behind the expansion tank which might be worth a look. I'll try and look a bit further tonight.

I'm still reasonably certain that it's an earthing problem because of the clock reseting itself tho...
 
Hey Buddis

I've googled this extensively this evening and have come up with a few ideas, not sure they're specific to your car but I googled based on your engine. There seem to be a few potential offenders.

1) ECU fuse
2) ECU relay (possibly located under the ECU under the bonnet)
3) Fuel pump relay
4) Fuel pump
5) Wiring connection near expansion tank
6) Crank sensor

I know this is a bit of a list but these appear to be the most common failures. I hope this helps in some way. Hope you get sorted - don't forget to update if you get your car working.
 
Hie Greg,many thanks for the reply. When I turn the key on I can definitely hear the fuel pump so I think that's ok. Few questions though whereabouts is the wiring on the Expansion tank sorry to sound daft but I'm
Not the greatest techie. I'm yet to figure out which one is the ecu relay under bonnet.
 
Hi Buddis, not sure where it is on your car as I have a diesel and it may be different on yours. See the following threads:

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/2-0-tfsi-wont-start.122995/

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/650617-B7-2-0tFSI-wont-start

I came across another thread on loose cabling near the expansion bottle, but I cant find it now - and I'm not convinced that this is where your problem lies. The expansion bottle is where you top up the coolant for your engine (please do not open if your engine is warm!!), but you might be able to move the bottle enough to see the connection.

I'm afraid it's time to employ some more official fault finding - such as checking for voltage at the solenoid on the starter when trying to start (if there is, it's a good chance your starter is goosed), checking for current draw with a clamp meter at the battery, checking that the microswitch on your clutch pedal is functioning (this can be checked in VCDS), check your fuel pump is priming, check that fuel is reaching the engine and checking many, many more things. Fault finding is really a process of elimination but a lot of these tests would be better carried out by someone who is comfortable and familiar working on engines - not for the DIYer.

I really hope you get sorted, but I think it's time you called in the experts!

Greg.
 
Try "tapping" the relays under the cover in the engine bay.

Also to prove the main batt wiring turn on headlights and see if they dim a lot when you try to start.
 
OP, this does sound like power. If it's still not starting with known good battery hooked up, it's sounds like ur main relay for the engine ECM is down.
If u PM me reggy I can tell you how to check some basics.
 
I had a similar problem on a different car. Don't know if is any importance to you... But it turned out to be a broken fuse rather than a blown fuse. I. E. The fuse had mechanically broken. The two parts were still touching but wouldn't allow the required current to pass through. It was impossible to see with the naked eye.
Just an idea
 
Just wondering if the OP had a result with this?
 
Doesn't the fuel pump prime its self as soon as you open the door ?
 
Good evening. Late reply but it all turned out to be the engine that was gone. Managed to get a new engine and fitted picking car up on Friday. Pricey but didn't want to let the Audi go
 
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