Sound insulation

mister.c. · Jun 7, 2015

I'm popping my A3 2.0TFSI in for some audio work (new speakers) and as part of the install they are putting in some door insulation. So it got me thinking about elsewhere. I don't want to do the whole car but less road noise in the car would be good. The boot for instance appears to have absolutely no insulation.
There are some helpful threads on sound insulation like
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/sportback-the-build-thread.208118/page-2#post-2304997
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/poor-sound-insulation.215802/#post-2179048

Upshot is, I've ordered some aluminium butyl deadening and mat for the boot. Can't do any harm and came in at £30 odd quid from ebay.

Just wondered what other peoples thoughts / experiences are, of sound proofing the A3.

Sayam · Jun 7, 2015

If you want the best "bang for buck" you need to deaden and then insulate the doors, boot floor and tailgate.

The floor is a big pain because everything has to come out, however, it really pays dividends.

manor13 · Jun 7, 2015

That is my build and def worth it for me still some road noise but I think thats the tyres, putting back the boot insert was a pain still doesn't sit right lol.
I was amazed how little noise insulation the car came with for a premium brand, my old mk2 golf had more. Ideally i would take the carpet out and do there as well.

mister.c. · Jun 7, 2015

Thanks chaps. Likewise I was surprised how non existant the insulation is. But my tyres (Goodyear F1s) are not too noisy so it could be a lot worse in the cabin. So I don't think I'll be trying the floor anytime soon; just doing the boot looks like it will be a challenge for me!
My boot insert is a PITA even before insulation, so it should be fun. I may just top the boot off with something like this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAILORED-...ts=Car+Make:Audi|Model:A3&hash=item53f5640001

Sayam · Jun 7, 2015

Completely agree...deffo needs more insulation from factory.

nooone · Jun 8, 2015

A few tips (I don't do much any more but used to be interested in car audio and acoustics);
- Covering holes is important
- You don't need to cover full sections, adding weight to flat sections that can vibrate gives you the best economy for the cost of the material and added weight to the vehicle
- There are foam style materials that work well under your boot floor and add less weight. I'd still add some butyl based deadener (like Dynamat) to the middle of flat sections as the added weight will stop it flexing (transferring noise like a speaker).
- The rounded sections of the wheel arches wont trasmit much noise, again focus on the flat sections.
- My test method is to knock on it, if it is solid and does not ring, adding material isn't going to do much. If the surface moves and rings (vibrates), stick something to it to add enough weight so it rings less).

Sayam · Jun 8, 2015

nooone said:
A few tips (I don't do much any more but used to be interested in car audio and acoustics);
- Covering holes is important
- You don't need to cover full sections, adding weight to flat sections that can vibrate gives you the best economy for the cost of the material and added weight to the vehicle

Just to add I agree with the above. And on point number two, specifically deadening the middle 50% (roughly) of a flat panel is enough...When it comes to sound absorbing material then its important to get 100% coverage and no gaps where sound can 'leak' through.

Carefree69 · Jun 8, 2015

Or just turn up the volume :salute:

mister.c. · Jun 19, 2015

Sound insulation in the door has made a noticable difference. Definitely recommended.

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