I think I brought a dog. A3 3.2 advice please.

bikedoctorr

bikedoctorr

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Hi guys my first post so after some advice please if poss as you seam very knowledgeable lot. I brought a 3.2 dsg sline. after some hard corning on a motorway (m25 to m11 :)) and having the esp light flashing away whist doing so a few mins latter I have a esp light on the dash and seam to have lost all traction control, 4wd. i have had car scaned before and it said haldex pump intermittent. could this cause the esp light to come on if its now gone completely. if not I just had steering rack removed as the exhaust needed repairing. steering wheel now seams not straight when I drive straight. could the steering angle senor cause this if the wheel is not straight when driving. quess ill only know by plugging it in and seeing whats gone :( only brought car one month ago and guy stiched me up. cost me over 1000 to sort probs out all ready :( and guy I know with lead is in france for two weeks :(
 
If you looking for a vcds scan click the map link in my signature. Where you located?
 
I'm right near junction 26 of m25 North London. I want to buy a cable my self as I have needed one 4 times since owning it and it's only a month old. I msg nhn but not come back to me yet.
 
Today the light went off and 4x4 was working again but I switched off ign and on again and it's back to 2wd and light back on. Funny thing was when light was off esp was still not working but 4wd was.
 
so car scanned today.
codes was as follows
engine p1627 glow plugs open or intermittent..............its a 3.2 petrol I don't think its got glow plugs so have no idea what this is
abs-00778 steering angle sensor mechanical failed(g85)
hvac 01274 air flap positioning motor intermittent or failed
awd 00448 haldex pump failed or intermittent.
steering assist. 00750 warning lamp rtc memory intermitant

so im guessing I got two faults at the same time.

so im guessing the 2wd/4wd is the haldex pump issue. although once I cleared the codes this reported ok but car is still defo 2wd. Im going to pull pump out and look at it, I read many threads that say they get oil on the brushes and die and seams to be around 80 to 90k which is where mine is at.

now I think the esp light is on due to the steering angle. after reading on the ross tech site I think it just needs resetting. under the info for this error code it says do a basic setting reset. but I think its reading wrong due to my steering wheel is out by about 5 to 8 degrees when driving in a straight line. this was like this after having my exhaust repaired and the steering rack having to be moved/taken off to get acces to the headers. so my question is if the rack was removed is there any thing that could of been installed wrongly when it was replaces. the adjustable bits on the end of the rack are still rusty and have never been undone of late so if it was removed it was done at the joint ends. as it is now would it be easier to just remove the steering wheel and move it round, im guessing its on some sort of spline no???? please correct if im wrong.

id rather not do a reset on the sensor if the real prob is the fact that the rack is out of line etc.

any help / advice will be greatly received. im a bike mechanic so no my way round a spanner just not used to touching cars.

jason
 
This sounds crazy and to simple but it may be worth checking your battery .
Mine was on the way out and was throwing alsorts of error and faults at me, specifically esp faults .
Replaced the battery and they all went Away.
 
tbh the battery was a bit wafty when I first got it. but now im using it it seams ok. ill check voltage and chuck a batt at it I think.
 
thinking about it......I think its too much a coincidence that the guy removes the steering rack and then the steering wheel is out a bit then I get the fault a week later saying the steering senor is not right. its gotta be thinking the sensor is wrong because it always at 10degrees turn to go straight.
 
it doesn't take a lot to drop the subframe to have a look at it all .... That's if it's the same setup as the 2.0tdi quattro. He may have snapped the clip on the plug and its rattling about etc etc . esp may be the battery though because I don't think there's any electrical connections for the esp in damaging distance of the steering setup .
Or take it back and get them to look seeing as they've played with that area and it wasn't happening before
 
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I know im sad but I found a online manual that I been reading. I think its going to be what I think. when you go on ross tech site all the other g85 codes are for broken bits but the code I got is for the senor that reads the position of the stering wheel is out of calibration. ill get the lead tomorrow and read what its reading and will know for sure. but as wheel is out it will always be reading wrong. but I don't believe the senors is out I think the stering rack is out making the wheel out. I have just found out that the camber of the wheels cant be altered but it says it can be centred by moving the subframe form side to side. it slides for this reason. if the rack is bolted to this plate this must make the steering wheel move from centre because as the plate slides from side to side as the rack is bolted in and the only bit that could move is the steering coloum.

does that logic sound plausible??????
 
If your wheel isn't centred when you're driving straight, the esp will thinks something's up as the wheelspeeds will show a straightline but the steering wheel is saying you're turning.

Was the steering wheel removed? if just the rack, then it's probably the steering column hasn't been put back in the same position on the steering rack.
 
I don't know what was taken off. all I was told was to get to the flexys on the exhaust they had to remove the subframe which includes getting the rack out of the way so they could weld up the new flexys to the old exhust just past the lamba sensors. I was charged 4 hours to do it and this seams to be what everyone was quoting. I only had car a month and cant say I notice before I took it in if the steering wheel was out but im pretty sure it wasn't. what you said above is what I was trying to describe. its not the senor its the coloum is out so the sensor is reading correctly but like you say its not what the esp thinks it should be.

so if its the coloum out.......can this be done esaliy or is it sub frame off again.????? would it not be easier to just take steering wheel off and replace on straight or would that upset anything else????
 
so been and spoke to a few guys. and they agreed it can only be the two things mentioned above. the sub frame that was removed has rack bolted to it. hence if it slides from side to side altering the camber of the wheels at the same time it would move the steering wheel as the rack moves with it. second would be the column put on wrong.

we have pretty much discounted the column on wrong as we've looked as some second-hand ones on flea bay and they clearly show the joint which has a spine but also a flat so it locates in the right place. also it has a cut out for the tightening pin like a cottle pin on a push bike pedal (showing my age) I think it would be near on imposable to put it on wrong.

so that leaves me with the sub frame needs sliding over. my man is talking to his guys who do 4 wheel tracking to adjust it spot on or was told another idea. as the steering wheel was straight before the sub frame was removed it makes sense to loosen all the bolts and move the plate until the wheel lines up and this should be back to where it was in the first place.
 
I'm not sure if the sub frame would alter it as there isn't a lot of tolerance it just bolts straight on
Ive taken mine off a couple of times and havnt had any issues .
ITs off at the mo I'll grab some pics of the sframe naked for you tomorrow if you would like
I could be completely wrong though
What year is the car ?
Check these links out it could just be a inconvinant coincidence

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/128415-G85-fault-Steering-angle-Sensor/page2

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/120558-Tracking-steering-wheel-and-the-ESP-light
 
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interesting reads but both seam to show the same issue. the steering wheel is out so the esp come on. defo my problem. after looking around im still not convinced its not as simple as the rack has been put on one spine out or something on the steering column. what would be use full if yours is off is some info about the column clamp and rack pin. could it been put one tooth out??? or is there a flat on it so it only goes one way.

its booked in on Friday to have a 4 wheel tracking done. if its way out then there going to look at the sub frame adjustment as its the only thing that has been touched.

as to the sub frame im only going by the manual that says if you loosen the a frame bolts you can slide the whole lot from side to side to "center the camber" it cant be adjusted but can be centered. what ever that means. if that's the case then it must of been put back to one side which would change the position of the steering wheel. it was straight before they touched it. I must admit there a few on ebay and there don't look much on the bolt holes to be moved. there are hardly slots.

my car is a 2004 54 plate reg in dec 04.
 
so it went for its 4 wheel track today and all sorted :) steering wheel is straight and after a short drive and turn ign off/on it reset the light and my esp now turns on and off. the traction control is now working with minimum amounts of front wheel spin. when I turn off the esp it still spins the front wheels like mad so im assuming my haldex pump has not started working now esp fault is cleared and still reports as intermittent or failed in vcds. so now ill have to track down a pump and most of its faults will be cured.

all engine service items ordered on wed so hopefully by Monday they'll all be here and can crack on with its full engine service next sunday.

only thing to do after that is find out why the manifolds are blowing only under acceleration. I suspect engine mounts need changing too but thse are all litel things to do..........

there is light at the end of a tunnel.
 
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Hi fella with regards to awd 00448 haldex pump failed or intermittent., I would suggest changing or checking the earth strap first, this was a common problem on my 8L S3?
 
so I really have mess stuff up I found out tonight.
when I did my haldex oil change I realized mine was a gen two haldex and I had the stuff for gen one. obviously the filter was no good but I did the oil change with what I had. tonight with the help of finding a manual on line and other sites I have realised that firstly the manual says do not mix the oils :( and do not use the oil from a gen 2 in a gen 4 as they are different (it don't cover gen 1) also it says the oil change should be 0.6ltr ie 600ml. I used the tube of oil that had 275 mm in it but im pretty sure I checked the amount out to the amount in......either way seams I have used the wrong oil and seriously under filled it. hopefully this is why its pumping intermittently. I have ordered the right oil which also matches some audi service history I have from haldex parts on ebay......another 55 quid spent. im hoping with the right oil levels it may work but im not hlding my breath. ill pull the pump out when I do the oil change to see if its working. if not ill get one of there pumps too.

im fully aware it can be the controller with that code but was told it will normally give more than one code if its a conbtroller. either way there are refurb guys out there if I find the pumps woring ok when I pull it out ill have the controller checked first before ordering the pump

im a bit confused also over the pumps. I thought there was only two pumps. one with the square type wires and one with the flopy wire on gen 4 but haldex parts list three different pumps. the one for mine they have a floopy wire on but im pretty sure the one I have on the car has the old gen one square wire type. tomorrow ill jack it up and see exactly what id marks I have on the unit its self and get right pump if needed.
 
*P3nfold* said:
Hi fella with regards to awd 00448 haldex pump failed or intermittent., I would suggest changing or checking the earth strap first, this was a common problem on my 8L S3?
Click to expand...
ill look out for it...do you know where it is ment to be mounted????
 
you need to change some wheel bearings for sure! 1 abs sensor fails and whole car gets cancer.

Look for abs sensors failure, it can be because of the magnetic ring isn't where it should be. because of all your highway GGGG's.
 
Pergan said:
you need to change some wheel bearings for sure! 1 abs sensor fails and whole car gets cancer.

Look for abs sensors failure, it can be because of the magnetic ring isn't where it should be. because of all your highway GGGG's.
Click to expand...
yeah I know the wheel senors could of caused this but ti was what I thought. when they fixed the exhaust the sub frame wasn't put back where it come from. this allowed the steering wheel to turn so it wasn't straight when driving. wheel sensors was saying its going straight ie all wheels the same speed but the steering senor was saying it should be turning hence esp went into wobble. one 4 wheel track and all is sorted. didn't even have to reset on vcds as after a few miles I switched it off and on again as per drivers hand book and it reset all ok.
 
Iceman567 said:
so your all good now.. judging from your last post ?
Click to expand...

yes mate most of the probs are sorted now. got most of the service items done too. air filter in, pollen filter in, wipers replaced, oil &oil filter and plugs here but to do. fuel fiter needs doing too as my one is leaking again I have it just need time to fit it.

only probs now is haldex not working but I got various options coming up. I got a pump for a good price and maybe a whole haldex if the price is right. although I already did oil I have the correct oil and correct amount coming this time and will be done again. live and learn. theres loads of info out there but most are for gen 1 and gen 4 haldex, didn't realise I had a gen 2.:) live and learn I quess.

last thing on the to do list is a manifold blow that can now be heard after doing the rest of the exhaust.
 
ha good stuff manifold is defiantly the last thing after haldex... its almost liveable ;)
glad your making progress.
on the plus side to change the haldex unit out will give you some incite into the audi way ..... honestly they make every proper job awkward as hell but its worth the satisfaction and experince at the end.
 
yeah im quickly realising that. the idea of a gearbox that has to have the oil changed but has no fill hole is just simply crazy. it all seams like that. they make it hard to do simple tasks.
 
ha yea i know my t box has a fill and inspection hole behind the turbo down pipe ... almost impossible to undo with out some prior thinking.... They literally tried to make all the jobs a dealership job and tried to mug all us home mechanic savy guy's off for a couple of hundered quid but hey thats the price of VAG lol
long gone are the the days of a super simple home servicing schedule.
 
hay I found some thing that was sota easy :) the oil and filter was simple :) but the plugs was a git getting the coil packs out. I cant believe in all its years no one has bothered to put a bit of grease on them. a simple bit of rubber grease around where it seals on the head and hay presto they push on and off so easy im now worried if I go over too big a bump they'll come off. hahhaahaha.

also haldex oil turned up today. after I returned from work though:( still no sign of the pump I brought from guy on here but not been long. im gonna try just the oil for now and if I do need to do the pump ill catch oil in clean jug and put it back in. simples. this will be done tomorrow.

if I get time the fuel filter will be done tomorrow too and hay presto ill be where I want the car to be service wise. will be just the tiny manifold blow and engine mounts to do. then maybe I can relax and start enjoying it.................................I bet I find some thing to do................hmmm those rear shocks look............................... hahahahahaha
 
so fuel filters done and haldex all filled up. still don't work :( no 4wd front burns out lovely with esp switched off :( my second hand haldex pump arrived today........ill try and get it in next weekend :( anyone done one??? how hard is it to get the wire off over the top of haldex. is it easier to do if I take off the controller first. does it need any gaskets etc???
 
Man you are a car doctor as well as a bike doctor! You have bought a ****, not a dog!
Good luck mate, and don't give up. It will work properly one day, surely!
 
hahahaha I prob make it sound worst than it really is.......maybe not but hay ho im just glad I could do mostly myself, time and effort is not a problem and tbh most items im doing if I ever had to do again id do in half the time..its a bit of a learning curve all this as I have never worked on cars since I was 16 some 25 years ago. been doing bikes ever since. even back then I was only doing simple sevice stuff and making tea in workshops a few days a week:) a good example of this was I spent ages trying to get fuel lines off fuel filter. now I know theres a little clip you have to prise out ill do it in mins. put a cable tie round my ones too as they didn't look too nice on there return. least this way they can never fall out. don't like just pushing them in. quess that's all years of racing bikes. makes you paranoid because if it can fall off it will, normally when your in front winning :)

stuff like the service items I have done for piece of mind. I now know when they were defo done and there done right. the only down side and unexpected work was the exhaust but I guess it never hurts to have the middle boxes cut out and replaced with stainless anyway. beter sound and when I get a back system for it she will sound brilliant.
 
so little up date. the haldex was still not working after pump replace so I sent of the controller to be repaired. they have told me the area was damaged was controlling the pump which is good news as that's the fault I was getting up. and they have repaired it and its ben posted back to me. hopefully ill get it back on tomorrow and all will be good. if so just engine mounts and header blow to sort out.

it had a wobble the other day. all esp abs and handbrake light come on dash with a big symble on the dash saving brakes!!! nothing wrong with them working wise but concerning all the same. sorted it self out hours latter. all went off. dam car!!!!
 
well controller back on and its all fixed. I finaly have 4wd :) engine mounts and exhust blows to do and I have done all its faults.
 
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