EGR blank help

Just had a quick measure of the EGR valve I took off, you need the large blanking plate Chris.

I'd use a gasket both ends.

Steffgj said:

Just had a quick measure of the EGR valve I took off, you need the large blanking plate Chris.

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Do you notice a difference with the EGR removed, I have just blanked off the small pipe at present!

It's been blanked for so long I can't really remember what it was like before!

Definitely remember after fitting it thinking it was more responsive and no more black smoke!

I completely removed the EGR and fitted the delete pipe, looks cleaner and is completely un-restricted. The EGR valve was absolutely caked in crap as was the intake.

Chris are you doing a delete kit or disable and blank ?

Chrismawa said:

Just a disbale and blank mate, as I want to retain the ASV. So buying the bits I need separately.

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Cool , this is my preferred method .

You just need 1 slip in blank at the bottom of the egr feed tube nr exhaust manifold as the plunger inside the egr plugs when disabled.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-valve...x-block-/111124290183?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

What year and plate is your B6 ?

No eml for you then.

Just disabled it gives the benefit , the blank at the bottom is not vital , just stops the tube from unnecessarily filling up with exhaust gasses.

You can disable right now , all good .

The tube might act as a support , no need to remove , a small bolt to plug vac line and a sub £4 slip in blank , happy days .

Chris arnt you north East' I've got some blanking plates if you need any

I've not done it mate , my egr was fairly clean because the previous owner was doing up to 4K dual and motorway miles per month , so no egr or inlet mani gunk cleaning for me .

May I also suggest the use of 2 Stoke.

Effects of 2t oil added to diesel cars.

Due to the pollution control measures of the EC diesel-oil is nearly sulphur free and contains up to 5% of bio-diesel. Sulphur has the property to grease the high pressure injection pump and the injectors. Without sulphur, the reduced greasing property of the new diesel has already shown negative impacts on the long-term stability of the injectors and the high pressure pump. The pump manufacturers have tried to react by lining the moving parts of the pumps with Teflon or other suitable material. However, the long term stability is still not achieved as with the old (sulphur contained) diesel.
The engine-research centre of a well-known German car manufacturer has conducted some long term tests of diesel additives to find out whether any one of them will have an impact on the long term reliability of the diesel engine components. This introduction to explain were my information comes from.
The results of this research: any diesel additive of any manufacturer presently on the market is not worth the money!
BUT: 2-stroke oil, which we use in our motor saws, lawn mower or in 2-stroke motor engines has shown to have an extreme positive impact on diesel engines, if such 2-stroke oil is added to the diesel in a homeopathic doses of 1:200. In practical terms: 0,300 litre of 2-stroke oil into the 70l diesel tank. The 2-stroke oil will be absorbed by the diesel (emulsion) and grease every moving part of the high pressure pump and the injectors.
Besides this, the 2-stroke oil will keep the diesel engine clean, as it burns cleaner as the diesel itself.
In other words, the 2-stroke oil has a much lower ash-content as diesel, when burned. This proven fact delays the DPF (diesel particulate (soot) filter) to clog, and the "burn free" process of the DPF will be much less.
More information: in Germany we have to present our cars every 2 years to the TUV -Technical Supervision Organisation - who will check, amongst others, the pollution of petrol and diesel engines.
The measured cloud-factor of a diesel engine without use of 2-stroke oil has been 0,95.
The same factor with the use of 2-stroke oil has been 0,47 - reduction of nearly half of the soot particles.
Besides this, the use of 2-stroke oil in the diesel will increase the mileage by 3-5%.

Also increases the Cetane number.

Ultra sonic cleaner is by far the best way if you know some one that has one, other than that when it's off use brake cleaner

Chrismawa said:

Yeah thanks, going to do it this way. Last question! lol. I'm guessing its worth removing and cleaning the inlet manifold as well while Im there? Whats best way to clean this, and its best to replace the gasket on this also, yes?

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Everyone swears by this stuff, it's designed for cleaning ovens (burnt food = carbon deposits).

It's a foaming substance so you just spray it into each of the inlets/outlets and it will expand to fill the entire thing without missing any hard to reach parts.

Basically spray it in, leave an hour or two, then wash out. Or better yet, spray out with a pressure washer, will leave it looking good as new!