The dreaded cam chain tensioner

Brooker89

Brooker89

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Ok I've got an a4 b7 2tfsi petrol cabriolet.

I've taken it to a garage and he said just one of the parts is £350!! Parts bill will add up to £550!!

Stupidly, I've forgotten what the part was called. Possibly a 'Cam Inlet..'

Usually i do all the work on my car but this job was a bit beyond my skill level, so all im asking.. is this a normal costing and has anyone been charged this?
 
need a bit more description on what the part is.

if he is replacing the inlet cam then I would say the price is about right,

if it is the vvt unit (cant think of the name audi give it) then sounds about right.

if it is for the chain kit, its a bit excessive, a chain kit is roughly £140 for an aftermarket OE spec one (has ina tensioner and iwis chain inside it)

as for the labour, it is a big job, 6 hours to replace the rear chain and tensioner, and that's if it all goes according to plan
 
Last edited:
Yeahh it's the cam inlet.

Why would he want to change that part if I've asked him to do that chain and tensioner? Is this a normal part which is changed too.

I've got the noisy chain rattle symptoms, as fair as I'm aware I didn't need to change anything else other than the chain, tensioner, bolts, gaskets etc
 
Brooker89 said:
Yeahh it's the cam inlet.

Why would he want to change that part if I've asked him to do that chain and tensioner? Is this a normal part which is changed too.

I've got the noisy chain rattle symptoms, as fair as I'm aware I didn't need to change anything else other than the chain, tensioner, bolts, gaskets etc
Click to expand...


Yeah, it might be worth checking with him before he starts stripping things down or buy the parts yourself and get him to fit what you supplies
 
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Be a little wary of buying parts and getting someone else to fit them. If they fail, its down to you to sort it - and pay for the problem to be fixed a second time.
 
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Brooker89 said:
Yeahh it's the cam inlet.

Why would he want to change that part if I've asked him to do that chain and tensioner? Is this a normal part which is changed too.

I've got the noisy chain rattle symptoms, as fair as I'm aware I didn't need to change anything else other than the chain, tensioner, bolts, gaskets etc
Click to expand...

Just to help out here as I have quite alot of experience with these engines.

Firstly what sx_turbo said regarding the chain kit. The worst thing you can do is buy a aftermarket kit,you may ask yourself why? Well for a few reasons one they more prone to failing. 2 The Audi parts come with a warranty and if they are supplied and fitted by a authorized Audi repair centre and I dont mean Audi Main dealer I am referring to Indys that are allowed to work on vehicles that don't affect your your warranty. Because if any of those parts fail you get a 2 year warranty with them. That said if the "audi part ie chain" snaps" on you well you can go direct to Audi to allow them to inspect the vehicle and if they see the chain was the cause they will 95% of the time replace the parts that were taken out or damaged in the process. Certain parts I would say go non OEM but when we talking about the life blood of the vehicle its strongly suggested to go for Audi parts. As they still till today revising some of the older parts to prevent premature damage.

Back to the point of topic. If your vehicle went in for a chain and tensioner I can understand why he might suggest that the vehicle needs a Inlet cam as this part of the motor you dont see unless you have the rear section of your valve cover/head off. Usually people will suggest for 2 reasons you either have the revision A cam that was made of chocolate and would cause excessive wear on your cam lobe as well as cam follower usually found in vehicles with early 55, 2005, 54 or 2004. The rev B cam doesn't suffer so much from this which cost around £250 trade price. The second reason could be that the cam is worn and has damage on the cam lobe were the follower runs on which is potentially the reason why he is advising towards it.

Hopefully that clears things up.

Just out of interest where are you based?

And if you need any more info feel free to pm or post a reply.
 
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Wow, this site never ceases to amaze me. Your replies have been excellent. It always helps when you understand the job that much more.

In terms of parts, I'm assured that TPS are a supplier a genuine VAG parts as I've used them frequently in the past? Tbh the guy doing the job is a good guy and always sorts me out a great price. I'm not sure why i thought any different this time. Perhaps the cost just stunned me lol.

I'm based in Reading
 
I am glad the info has helped.

Yes TPS are the supplier of genuine VAG parts. So thats 100% correct. Just making sure you aren't using non OE parts for the lifeblood. Dont want your fix ending in tears after 6 months. Well as long as you happy with his service then nothing is wrong with that.

Well if you need any advice or assistance just pm me as I live in Bracknell so stone throw away :)
 
Does anyone have a list of parts required for a chain and tensioner replacement?

Many thanks
 
I'll be able to give you the list on Friday as I'm getting mine done
 
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Just done one last week (1.8 TFSI), these are the main parts i remember.

Cam-chain
Cam chain tensioner
Left hand chain guide
Right hand chain guide
Upper chain guide
Upper cover rubber gasket
Upper cover/VVT actuator rubber gasket
VVT actuator 'O' ring

If you read the guides online they recommend replacing the bottom pressed steel timing cover, its £95-00!! so clean it if it comes off without too much trouble and hasn't distorted.
This includes a new crank seal i think, i fit the original cover back, also new bolts are recommended - crank pulley bolt for defo.

There are a number of special tools required, as the crank pulley must be held with T10355A when loosening and tightening.
Theres a special key tool to undo a valve in the end of the inlet cam/support housing and tools to hold the cams in place too.

When you take the crank pulley off, put the bolt back in finger tight to hold the crank gear in place.
 
Brooker89 said:
Ok I've got an a4 b7 2tfsi petrol cabriolet.

I've taken it to a garage and he said just one of the parts is £350!! Parts bill will add up to £550!!

Stupidly, I've forgotten what the part was called. Possibly a 'Cam Inlet..'

Usually i do all the work on my car but this job was a bit beyond my skill level, so all im asking.. is this a normal costing and has anyone been charged this?
Click to expand...
At that price it will most likely be the cam variator mate.
The rest of the parts are relatively cheap. Sometimes when loosening the main bolt that holds the variator on, the pin that keeps the camshaft in time with variator snaps.
Had it happen on 3 variators, but then got away with around 5+ never snapping.
 
The LIST as requested for the top timing chain:

Exhaust cam sproket Bolt x1 06D109281D
Timing Chain Tensioner 06F109217A
Timing Chain Tensioner bolts x3 N10196303
Valve cover gasket 06F103483D
Timing Chain Rear cover gasket 06D103121B
Timing Chain 06D109229B
Vacumme pump rubber gasket 06D145117
HPFuel Pump Seal Around cam follower WHT005184
 
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Our mechanic has done this job in 3 hours, on several occasions. But he's a machine to be fair.
 
I have just arranged for a mechanic to get this done, getting the parts next week so fingers crossed all goes to plan.

Is there anything else to watch out for during the strip down and rebuild?
 
I haven't been very active on here as I normally would but I would probably advise the following:

Have a look at the condition of your cam follower as well as high pressure fuel pump and if possible see which inlet cam shaft you have if its the serial/part number ends in a A or B. If its A then you will be more prone and frequent to changing cam followers if its the latter then you can go for miles with out changing it even when remapped.

If you get the chance have a look inside area were the cams sit see how it looks or take some pictures. Especially if you are unsure as to what you are looking at. But generally the idea would be to see the condition of how the internals look. If they carboned up or if its clean etc. As it will explain a lot about how the car has been maintained.

And only use Audi Parts do not go for a alternative part just because its cheaper there is a reason for that especially as some of the parts have been revised.
 
I replaced the cam follower a couple of weeks ago, will be interesting to see how it has settled in.

Parts will be from either Audi or TPS

Will be checking for condition once stripped and also checking breathers etc.
 
Tps supply Audi so you'll be fine there.
Also make sure the mechanic cleans all the excess oil off the surface before re installing the housing. Any oil under the gasket will allow it to leak down the back of the engine.
Sounds minor but I've seen plenty like this.
 
Parts list below now with TPS prices exc VAT (Original parts list provided by Giosabcsl)

Exhaust cam sproket Bolt x1 06D109281D £1.97
Timing Chain Tensioner 06F109217A £59.46
Timing Chain Tensioner bolts x3 N10196303 £0.31 each
Valve cover gasket 06F103483D £15.09
Timing Chain Rear cover gasket 06D103121B £3.62
Timing Chain 06D109229B £48.43
Vacuum pump rubber gasket 06D145117 £3.01
HP Fuel Pump Seal Around cam follower WHT005184 £6.73

Total parts cost including VAT £167.10


Interestingly my local Audi dealer said I wouldn't need the exhaust cam sprocket bolt, fuel pump seal or the vacuum pump gasket and the price from them even without those parts was over £200
 
They technically are correct.

That said the HP fuel pump seal around the cam follower doesnt need to be replaced if it was replaced when you did the cam follower if not replace it for the sake of 6.73.
The exhaust cam sprocket for sure is a must as a lot of force is needed to loosing that bolt. And the last thing you want is if you need to work in that area and the bolt is stripped.
The vacuum pump gasket can leak and again for the sake of 3 quid. its not worth sweating about honestly.

So £200 for parts inc vat seems reasonable. I think mine was cheaper but thats another story.
 
Agreed, worth doing them all for the sake of a few quid, I thought the Audi dealer was not giving me the best advice so ordered the parts anyway from TPS

I did change the fuel pump gasket a couple of weeks ago but was under the impression in squashes when fitted so best to change each time the pump is removed, TPS will refund any unused parts in full so may as well get it just in case.

For info my total cost calculation of £167.10 includes VAT
 
Assuming you don't need the variator at £350 + vat, that's sounds right.
 
So....

My mechanic is currently doing this job with all the correct tools and knowledge, all going swimmingly and then...

Cam bolt rounded when trying to remove, arghhh. OK, don't panic, remove cam and manage to get bolt out, phew.

All going back together, obviously more parts have been removed than originally required, again all going well. So now we get to cam chain casing (the rear case which has the cam adjuster thing on it) a good clean before it goes back in because of some carbon build up.... CLICK.... OH NO one of the oil rings on the adjuster has snapped.

So, my question is... Can the ring be purchased separately and replaced or is it a new case?
 
Please see pics of the stupid ring and case

2h2mueh.jpg


qrlpwm.jpg
 
Craig can advise on this as he always replaces these when he does chains.
 
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foursprungdwarf said:
Please see pics of the stupid ring and case

2h2mueh.jpg


qrlpwm.jpg
Click to expand...
Yes you can buy all 3 rings from tps for around £20, but they control the variable valve timing so it's better that they break now as apose to when its back together. They cause all kinds of timing issues.
Hope this helps :)
 
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Awesome, just what I was hoping. Thank you.

Don't suppose you have a part number?

Do the rings just click on to fit?
 
Craig Cull said:
Yes you can buy all 3 rings from tps for around £20, but they control the variable valve timing so it's better that they break now as apose to when its back together. They cause all kinds of timing issues.
Hope this helps :)
Click to expand...

So I guess if this was being carried out purely a a preventative maintenance measure, it would be a wise move to replace the rings as a matter of course ?

* Edit* Sorry, just read back up the thread, Giosabcsi mentioned that Craig replaces these....
 
gary_tfsi_quattro said:
So I guess if this was being carried out purely a a preventative maintenance measure, it would be a wise move to replace the rings as a matter of course ?

* Edit* Sorry, just read back up the thread, Giosabcsi mentioned that Craig replaces these....
Click to expand...
Yes I always replace them now. Saves a lot of hassle as most of the time they break when putting the housing back on.
 
Another update

All done and back together (mechanic doing in his spare time so taking an age)

Now I have a REALLY rough idle once warm, trying to get a video online to look at.

Timing checked, new plugs, PCV and n80 changed earlier in the year so doubting it is that although I have a feeling it is the new PCV gone faulty.

Really stuck on what it is, no engine light and seems to drive fine on a test drive.
 
I'm having no joy uploading my video to YouTube on my phone but have found this video already on there with the same issue...

 
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