Well for car back tonight after garage stripped and cleaned out inlet manifold as it was full of crud. £175 quid later and the car is still the same. I'm gutted, as technician was sure that this would cure the problem. . . says it drove perfectly when they tested it afterwards. I drove less than a mile and juddering is still obvious. Question for anyone with the knowledge.... Is the car prone to have faulty throttle bodys? I assume they are electrical as I can't see a cable.
New owner, rough idle, black smoke, hesitation - help/ideas needed please!
- Thread starter margin-walker
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SDHA4SLine
Registered User
Yours is a diesel right? If so it doesn't have a throttle body. The lump after (or before depending on your point of view) the egr valve is anti shudder valve. If it's not opening fully when engine running it's possible that may cause your running issues.
Yes it's a diesel.
if it doesn't have a throttle body.... I assume that there must be some sort of potentiometer on the throttle pedal????? Are they prone to have issues? My only issue is when applying light throttle at around 2000rpm, the car feels like it has a slight misfire. Rest of the rev range is perfect.
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
You got me here, but I would imagine yes surely they must.Yes it's a diesel.
OK... Car at Audi right now, they say no faults found and car drove OK for them. He had pointed out that oil level is too high and covering MAP sensor. He says this may be causing the juddering/hesitation. Anyone think this could be possible. He also said he wasn't aware of an ECU software update for this issue. Does anyone have an info on this?
Thanks
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
Yes the MAP is a highly sensitive little blighter if its covered in crud that could well affect the way the car runs.
Its really easy to change two min job if you can afford to buy one to rule it out of the equation.
Who over filled your car with oil? I would be straight back to them about that. It is possible that when oil level is to high it can send oil into your cat and knacker it, but I imagine this would need to be an extreme case for this to happen.
Its really easy to change two min job if you can afford to buy one to rule it out of the equation.
Who over filled your car with oil? I would be straight back to them about that. It is possible that when oil level is to high it can send oil into your cat and knacker it, but I imagine this would need to be an extreme case for this to happen.
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
Whaaaaat no way surely its a mistake! I just edited my 1st post saying it was a 2 min job and im sure the part was only about 40 or 50 quid. I think I need to check my facts and come back to you. I may be getting mixed up with MAF sensor
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
On mine (BRD) one sensor is next to intercooler two screws and its out and like I say I'm sure is about £40 or £50 (genuine Audi) part and the other is next to the air filter and is a lot more expensive about £100 (bosch OE from GSF not genuine Audi). I've had both replaced on mine and they were both real easy to change. What's the details of your car again, year/engine code?
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
Right just checked my receipts, genuine Audi MAP sensor (part number
038 906 051 C) from Darkside Developments was £20. Its so easy to get access to and held in by 2 screws. That price from Audi is a **** take unless yours is completely different part and location to mine. I have a 2006 170hp 2.0tdi (BRD)
038 906 051 C) from Darkside Developments was £20. Its so easy to get access to and held in by 2 screws. That price from Audi is a **** take unless yours is completely different part and location to mine. I have a 2006 170hp 2.0tdi (BRD)
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
Here's the link to it on there website (genuine VAG part)
http://www.darksidedevelopments.co....p-manifold-pressure-sensor-038-906-051-c.html
Not sure this is the right part number for your car but I would be surprised if it is different from mine.
Edit:...
It says on website this is for the following A4's
2005 – 2008 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0 TDI – 136 (BNA), 140 (BLB), 140 (BRE), 136 (BRF), 126 (BVF), 121 (BVG), 140 (BPW), 170 (BRD), 163 (BVA)
2005 – 2008 Audi A4 2.0 TDI – 136 (BNA), 140 (BLB), 140 (BRE), 136 (BRF), 126 (BVF), 121 (BVG), 140 (BPW), 170 (BRD), 163 (BVA)
http://www.darksidedevelopments.co....p-manifold-pressure-sensor-038-906-051-c.html
Not sure this is the right part number for your car but I would be surprised if it is different from mine.
Edit:...
It says on website this is for the following A4's
2005 – 2008 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0 TDI – 136 (BNA), 140 (BLB), 140 (BRE), 136 (BRF), 126 (BVF), 121 (BVG), 140 (BPW), 170 (BRD), 163 (BVA)
2005 – 2008 Audi A4 2.0 TDI – 136 (BNA), 140 (BLB), 140 (BRE), 136 (BRF), 126 (BVF), 121 (BVG), 140 (BPW), 170 (BRD), 163 (BVA)
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Mine is 2005 BLB engine code. Will check part number when I collect car from audi. Thanks for the help
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
just in case... the maf is £100 (Bosch OEM) says its for BLB's
http://www.darksidedevelopments.co....-sensor-for-vw-1-9-2-0-8v-tdi-pd-engines.html
http://www.darksidedevelopments.co....-sensor-for-vw-1-9-2-0-8v-tdi-pd-engines.html
Wouldn't either of these sensors give a code on the diagnostic ? In still struggling to see how Audi diagnostic doesn't show a fault for an obvious engine issue?
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
Got to admit I don't know on this for sure but I have seen plenty of threads regarding sensors that were faulty but did not throw up a fault especially the coolant temp sensors.
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
My problem is that I'm in dispute with the dealer I bought from... Who is adamant that there is no problem with the car.... I just need Audi to acknowledge the issue with possible causes. But they say it drove fine on test, just away to take technician out with me driving to see what they say. But Yeh £20 is nothing especially if it puts it to bed.
Have you heard anything of the ECU software update I mentioned?
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
No not heard of it, hopefully if Audi dealer did things correctly they would have checked your software version and updated it if needed.
Took workshop manager out in car and the hesitation was apparent. He acknowledged the issue but declined the ECU software update as he says that it's best to get oil changed and Map sensor replaced just to rule them out.
Ok...still got issue.
So far, as above...replaced MAP sensor, EGR was replaced in January..fuel filter and oil changed. Still stutters from1750 to 2250rpm under light throttle. Diagnostic shows nothing, all measuring blocks look to be normal apart from when hesitation occurs (when plotting results EGR values spike a bit)
Strange thing is, when i disconnected the EGR and the Throttle motors the issue dissappeared....but no MIL came on
I would have thought that the light would have came on when the motors where disconnected ?? Also when they where disconnected, the diagnostic still shows measured values for EGR...around 480 something or others, same as when connected.
I'm confused and need some guidance.
Sorry to be a pain
So far, as above...replaced MAP sensor, EGR was replaced in January..fuel filter and oil changed. Still stutters from1750 to 2250rpm under light throttle. Diagnostic shows nothing, all measuring blocks look to be normal apart from when hesitation occurs (when plotting results EGR values spike a bit)
Strange thing is, when i disconnected the EGR and the Throttle motors the issue dissappeared....but no MIL came on
I would have thought that the light would have came on when the motors where disconnected ?? Also when they where disconnected, the diagnostic still shows measured values for EGR...around 480 something or others, same as when connected.
I'm confused and need some guidance.
Sorry to be a pain
SDHA4SLine
Registered User
Your not being a pain bud this is what forums are for, to try and get some help. Problem is you seem better equipped than me, I'm afraid you're above my knowledge now. Sorry I can't help
Hopefully someone will help you out soon
Hopefully someone will help you out soon
Thanks matey....I'm going stir crazy with this car.
Hopefully someone will post some pointers.
Laters
Hopefully someone will post some pointers.
Laters
I have emailed someone who is an audi mechanic and this is his reply regarding my lumpy tickover when cold , anyone gone down this route of checking the camshaft timing ?.....
ive heard of this fault before, you say it has had the injectors replaced under recall? when was this and who carried out the repair and did the fault exist before the recall.. Has the cambelt been replaced recently? the reason I ask these questions is because camshaft timing is very important on the engines and it has to be set with the engine warm and by suitable diagnostic equipment that Audi has or a vagcom.. the symptoms i.e rough when cold and are identical and because the injectors have been replaced the cam shaft would have to be removed thus needing to be timed correctly when reassembled aswel as if the cam belt has been replaced
ive heard of this fault before, you say it has had the injectors replaced under recall? when was this and who carried out the repair and did the fault exist before the recall.. Has the cambelt been replaced recently? the reason I ask these questions is because camshaft timing is very important on the engines and it has to be set with the engine warm and by suitable diagnostic equipment that Audi has or a vagcom.. the symptoms i.e rough when cold and are identical and because the injectors have been replaced the cam shaft would have to be removed thus needing to be timed correctly when reassembled aswel as if the cam belt has been replaced
Ok....i had put the car issue to the back of my mind for a while and just drove it.Your not being a pain bud this is what forums are for, to try and get some help. Problem is you seem better equipped than me, I'm afraid you're above my knowledge now. Sorry I can't help
Hopefully someone will help you out soon
But today i had another look around it. I have disconnected the EGR plug and left the inlet flap motor connected. Took the car for a 20 minute drive.....not once did it shudder !!! Now i am convinced that the issue is related to the egr or egr settings but my question is....shouldnt the MIL light have come on when the egr is disconnected? ? Mine doesnt. Either there is a fault or could some previous owner have had it mapped out someway.?
I was confused before but now im lost conpletely. Any ideas anyone?
Ok scratch that.....MIL light came on when i started car this morning. Suppose i have no other options than having egr mapped out or just to live with it.....does anyone know a reputable remap technician in dundee area?
