I have an idea...

J4MMYz

J4MMYz

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Okay, I might try to get round to waxing the car in march, i've had it since the end of december and have 900 miles so far.


problem is, I work nights so my weekends are a little limited, since I have a nap after work saturday morning and I tend to sleep in sunday morning so I can stay up sunday night to get back into the routine, so i don't have a lot of time on my hands to do the car fully, nor enough daylight.


My car is tar spot free so far, but tonnes of iron deposits from the train ride in germany from the factory.

I got an idea, how I could get around this.

One week - use tar remover on car
Next week - use iron X
Week after - clay bar + wax.

(Obviously do this after I washed it each week, I'm not doing that with the dirt still on lol - OR can I?)

My thinking is, since I don't touch motorways or country roads I just won't be collecting much tar/iron deposits in a week or so, plus the ones I do, the claybar will remove it.

I'm thinking doing that because I believe once I use iron X/tar remover, I have to wash it off and dry it again, my microfibre will be wetter than a fish out of the ocean and it won't dry the car properly, so I don't want to mess the whole thing up.

What are your thoughts? If I should do it all in one day i'll obtain a few more drying towels. I do need to buy some wheel woolies too but the ghastly price is putting me off for now. I'm not a massive detailing nut, I just like my car presentable.


I just need some advice, i'm not sure if you can Iron X and tar remove before you wash the car, so if someone could shine some light that'd be great
 
Last edited:
I think the plan is fine. After all if you don't have the time you have to fit in what you can. I machine polished one of our cars 1-2 panels at a time as that's all I had time for. I just had to wash and clay each time.

For your question: I would wash the car each time before using tar or iron remover so that it has maximum effect. Couple of things that might help you. CarPro Trix is a 2-in-1 Iron and Tar remover. If you don't have much tar this will work fine for you. Tardis is the Daddy of tar removers but not always necessary if you don't need it. I think Trix will do what you need.

Claying: how about using something like the Farcela G3 clay mitt instead? I've had good results with this and it is quicker....

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/cleaning-products/detailing-products/farecla-g3-body-prep-clay-mitt
 
scotty76 said:
I think the plan is fine. After all if you don't have the time you have to fit in what you can. I machine polished one of our cars 1-2 panels at a time as that's all I had time for. I just had to wash and clay each time.

For your question: I would wash the car each time before using tar or iron remover so that it has maximum effect. Couple of things that might help you. CarPro Trix is a 2-in-1 Iron and Tar remover. If you don't have much tar this will work fine for you. Tardis is the Daddy of tar removers but not always necessary if you don't need it. I think Trix will do what you need.

Claying: how about using something like the Farcela G3 clay mitt instead? I've had good results with this and it is quicker....

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/cleaning-products/detailing-products/farecla-g3-body-prep-clay-mitt
Click to expand...




Wait wait wait wait, theres a mitt, that you just wipe over the car and it does the same as clay bar?


Oh damn I wish i knew that before my dad bought me a clay bar kit for xmas...


Do you need to lubricate or is it just a cloth you wipe around?
 


this would be the correct way to do it?
 
audi upgrades
scotty76 said:
You mix up a soapy car shampoo mix and use that as the lube...

Click to expand...



I use autoglym shampoo, but theres not many suds from this stuff, I guess that won't matter though?
 
As long as it feels slick on the paintwork you'll be fine. You might want to mix slightly more shampoo than you would usually use. Or if you're worried use a quick detailer as lube. I'm guessing you got some in your clay kit?
 
scotty76 said:
As long as it feels slick on the paintwork you'll be fine. You might want to mix slightly more shampoo than you would usually use. Or if you're worried use a quick detailer as lube. I'm guessing you got some in your clay kit?
Click to expand...

Yeah I got the quick detailer from Autoglym with it,

It must be slick since the lambs wool mitt I use feels very soapy, but not many suds on the car. Seems to do a good job though. I'll perhaps use a bit more for that occasion.

thanks for the recommendation, i'll buy one nearer the time of doing it + the tar/iron remover you recommended
 
scotty76 said:
As long as it feels slick on the paintwork you'll be fine. You might want to mix slightly more shampoo than you would usually use. Or if you're worried use a quick detailer as lube. I'm guessing you got some in your clay kit?
Click to expand...


By the way, have you use one of these before? if you have, do you use a firm amount of pressure or not much? I don't want to over do it
 
You wont need a bucket full of mixed car shampoo to use as a lubricant. So use the normal amount of shampoo but just a couple of inches of water in the bucket.
When claying for the first time do a small portion of the body work that's not too visible to practice on. You'll soon get the feel of it. Key is to make sure you continue to turn and remould the clay so you're not rubbing what it has already removed along the paint.
 
The only problem I see is as soon as you apply a tar remover it strips the wax so your car won't have any protection on it
 
I used a mitt yesterday on the Mrs car, using a blanket of snow foam as the lubricant (and the odd dip in a soapy wash bucket to clean it periodically) and it worked fine. That was after a bout of tardis was rinsed off. Don't think you get the same feedback as you do with a clay bar on the the paint, so not sure they're quite as effective, but time and daylight were against me and doing the whole car took a fraction of the time.
 
scotty76 said:
As long as it feels slick on the paintwork you'll be fine. You might want to mix slightly more shampoo than you would usually use. Or if you're worried use a quick detailer as lube. I'm guessing you got some in your clay kit?
Click to expand...


Coming back to this thread, is there any chance of damaging the paintwork with that clay mitt? I guess I won't know until it's too late so I'm trying to figure wether or not to use the shampoo as lube or the autoglym rapid detailer. My worry is running out of the stuff as it probably goes through it quickly lol

I would think keeping the car wet, and using a lot of autoglym shampoo in a half filled bucket of water would be good enough?


so;

Snowfoam
wash car
deposit remover (tar & iron) & swill off
clay mitt
swill off car with power washer & dry
wax

stand back and hopefully see a good job! The car is only 2 months old so I'm sure theres not a lot to remove, but there are a lot of iron deposits from the train ride out of the factory - and i mean a LOT
 
If it puts your mind at rest, I was (and still am) a complete novice when it comes to detailing. I've used the G3 clay mitt twice now and had no problems at all. Good bucket of shampoo and started with it on the windows, which is something else I'd read. Worked like a charm with no marks or hassle. Just be careful not to use too much pressure; it really doesn't need it.
 
J4MMYz said:
Snowfoam
wash car
deposit remover (tar & iron) & swill off
clay mitt
swill off car with power washer & dry
wax
Click to expand...

After SF & washing the car, dry it off. It will make the de-tar and de-iron process more effective

Always de-tar before de-iron (good chances some iron fall out will be stuck in the tar) & again, after a good rinse with the PW dry the car off before going onto the de-iron

Like other have said plenty of lube with the clay mitt

After claying wash again and dry off before your waxing stages

Have you thought about using a glaze before waxing? This will hide some fine marring

Poorboys white diamond glaze would suit the colour of your car IMO
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/poorboys-white-diamond-glaze.html

Cheap too at £13 delivered ;)
 
Bristle Hound said:
After SF & washing the car, dry it off. It will make the de-tar and de-iron process more effective

Always de-tar before de-iron (good chances some iron fall out will be stuck in the tar) & again, after a good rinse with the PW dry the car off before going onto the de-iron

Like other have said plenty of lube with the clay mitt

After claying wash again and dry off before your waxing stages

Have you thought about using a glaze before waxing? This will hide some fine marring

Poorboys white diamond glaze would suit the colour of your car IMO
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/poorboys-white-diamond-glaze.html

Cheap too at £13 delivered ;)
Click to expand...


Thanks BH - I may leave it wet though (partly) since I've read some peoples opinion being it will help prevent it drying out on the paint, since if that happens apparently it all goes t*ts up.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CarPro-Trix-1-LITRE-1L-Tar-IronX-Iron-Fallout-Metal-Remover-Wheels-Cleaner-/400812751576?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d524d3ad8


Does anyone know if this is the same stuff linked above? All I see is wheel cleaner but i'm sure it's just the exact same stuff as linked above. Only problem being now is I have a lot of tar around the wheel area/s on the sills and mud guards after driving on a road with fresh tarmac - bast***s - so I'm no longer sure if the tar and iron all in one is a good idea anymore...
 
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