Hi guys,
so running my s3 with a deka battery, all good for quite a while (few months) then boom, n75H stops working and bad idle (missing, lumpy like a have a boost leak) and max pressure exceeded code. Being an n75H I think its the valve itself that's kicked the bucket. When i had a smoke pressure test done I had the actuator, n75H and forge DV tested separately and all is a-ok, however the n75h was throwing a max pressure exceeded code literally the moment it was plugged in.
So, again thought the H was dead, located an original, stuck it in, if i SLOWLY accelerate it boosts to 4000rpm ish, then does this very strange thing where it keeps activating on and off 4-5times gives really staggered boost, hits about 4-4500 and gone, throws max pressure code and I'm stuck in limp. At WOT there's nothing, nothing, nothing, turbo is spooling like a mofo, then suddenly boom, hard boost, then clunk gone and code.
Idle has been pretty awful the last 2 months (like I have a boost leak, disconnecting MAF makes no difference) since the n75 started playing up (and was the reason for the smoke test)
Also, there has been an actuator sound (a very quick pfft) before the blow off sound (new development, only since these problems began) so the n75's have been sending some strange signals. Actuator has NO play and the bolts are 100% a-ok.
About 3 weeks ago, when i was putting my windows up, it effected my idle, making it quite noticeably swing, so gave it a few consecutive pulls on the window switches and sure enough I can make my idle swing pretty drastically, if i flick the window switches up over and over like a mad mad I can almost get the engine to the point of stalling.
Which brings me to my new idea, bad battery? or bad alternator? Battery was the recommended deka, was fine for a few months and now dying (11.4V with engine off), because of a bad alternator? Could a bad alternator have been the cause of my slightly swinging idle (and at times pretty inconsistent turbo) since day one? (buying the car stock a year ago)
Climate control logged my voltage (20C) and with the engine off the battery is giving me 11.4 which seems very low. At idle it fluctuates between 12.9 and 14 at a pinch, whilst driving it fluctuates wildly between about 13.2 and 14.
And as always, help!!
so running my s3 with a deka battery, all good for quite a while (few months) then boom, n75H stops working and bad idle (missing, lumpy like a have a boost leak) and max pressure exceeded code. Being an n75H I think its the valve itself that's kicked the bucket. When i had a smoke pressure test done I had the actuator, n75H and forge DV tested separately and all is a-ok, however the n75h was throwing a max pressure exceeded code literally the moment it was plugged in.
So, again thought the H was dead, located an original, stuck it in, if i SLOWLY accelerate it boosts to 4000rpm ish, then does this very strange thing where it keeps activating on and off 4-5times gives really staggered boost, hits about 4-4500 and gone, throws max pressure code and I'm stuck in limp. At WOT there's nothing, nothing, nothing, turbo is spooling like a mofo, then suddenly boom, hard boost, then clunk gone and code.
Idle has been pretty awful the last 2 months (like I have a boost leak, disconnecting MAF makes no difference) since the n75 started playing up (and was the reason for the smoke test)
Also, there has been an actuator sound (a very quick pfft) before the blow off sound (new development, only since these problems began) so the n75's have been sending some strange signals. Actuator has NO play and the bolts are 100% a-ok.
About 3 weeks ago, when i was putting my windows up, it effected my idle, making it quite noticeably swing, so gave it a few consecutive pulls on the window switches and sure enough I can make my idle swing pretty drastically, if i flick the window switches up over and over like a mad mad I can almost get the engine to the point of stalling.
Which brings me to my new idea, bad battery? or bad alternator? Battery was the recommended deka, was fine for a few months and now dying (11.4V with engine off), because of a bad alternator? Could a bad alternator have been the cause of my slightly swinging idle (and at times pretty inconsistent turbo) since day one? (buying the car stock a year ago)
Climate control logged my voltage (20C) and with the engine off the battery is giving me 11.4 which seems very low. At idle it fluctuates between 12.9 and 14 at a pinch, whilst driving it fluctuates wildly between about 13.2 and 14.
And as always, help!!
