Rs4 b7 4.2 oil - 5w30 or 5w40

S321BAD

S321BAD

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Hi all,

my car was serviced about 3k miles ago (not sure what oil is in there at the minute)

I use the car as my daily commute (about 10 miles a day) with some light traffic. I do sometimes stretch its legs where possible.

oil needs a topup, but unsure whether to put in 5w30 or 40??? Also what brand are you guys using?


thanks



rick
 
Just look for an oil that meets the VW spec, don'[t worry about the grade.

I use Castrol Edge - but check you get the one that meets the VW spec, there are several versions and not all of them do.
 
Use 5w40 fully synthetic oil. You could also use 5w30 but it's too thin and your chain tensioners won't like it and they might start rattling from cold.
 
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got to agree with above

if your going to give the motor a tickle every now and again use the higher temperature rated 5w40
5w30 is exactly the same as 5w40 at start up where it may change is if you thrash 5w30 long enough and get it too hot it will eventually break down and become too thin for the oil pump to pump correctly on start up hence rattling the chain on start up
 
cheers guys, what is the actual vw spec then? may call up opie oils and order a couple of litres...

saw the link below...may go for the shell helix as i live right next door to a shell petrol station (conviniently!)

Audi - Engine Oil - VW 503.01

think i will top up with 5w 40 to be safe...but i guess it wont matter if it already has 5w 30 in there?
 
Your service book will tell you the spec you need (501, 503, 504 or 507 iirc, depending on service schedule), I personally use Edge 5w30.

I can't see it mattering if you change 5w30 for 5w40 oil, but mixing different weights could well cause issues as I'm not sure miscible they'll be. Those 2 are pretty close in terms of viscosity etc so might not be to bad.
 
i wouldnt advise mixing oils i would fill up with whatever was used at the last oil change

right now there are two main types of synthetic oil

one is a cracked oil with additives to give it its properties the other is esther based and they dont particularly work well with each other
 
dualmono21 said:
i wouldnt advise mixing oils i would fill up with whatever was used at the last oil change

right now there are two main types of synthetic oil

one is a cracked oil with additives to give it its properties the other is esther based and they dont particularly work well with each other
Click to expand...

Hi

There are three types of synthetic - hydrocracked (modified and refined mineral oil), PAO (proper lab made synthetic) and ester (top end of synthetic oils), this link explains the types.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Basestock-categories-and-Descriptions.pdf

They all mix together fine (in motor oils, ester based oils are a mix of PAO and esters), the only issue is that you are diluting the quality of the better oil by mixing it with a lesser one.

Cheers

Tim
 
S321BAD said:
Hi all,

my car was serviced about 3k miles ago (not sure what oil is in there at the minute)

I use the car as my daily commute (about 10 miles a day) with some light traffic. I do sometimes stretch its legs where possible.

oil needs a topup, but unsure whether to put in 5w30 or 40??? Also what brand are you guys using?


thanks



rick
Click to expand...

Hi Rick

The standard, easily available, choice for your car is a VW 507.00 spec.

VW - Engine Oil - 507.00 - VW 507.00 motor oil

They are fine to use and are required if it's on a long life service schedule.

A lot of people have mentioned that their 4.2 engines can burn a drop of oil, so we sometimes recommend a good 5w-40 instead (also helps to keep the engine quiet).

5w-40 engine oil | 5w40 oil

Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul 300V, Redline and Gulf Competition. They need to be changed annually or at 10k, whichever comes first and are not approved by VW, but will offer the best level of protection.

Cheers

Tim
 
cheers Tim!

i used Millers Nano drive in my old 8p s3 and definately noticed a difference...

i think im going to top up with 5w 40 millers but not sure which of the 2 to go for? i will eventually use millers for the actual oil change in a few months anyway...

can you recommend which is best between the two millers options and why?
 
Hi Rick

As there is the potential power gain with the CFS NT, I guess you could say that is the better of the two oils, but if you are just topping up, I'd probably save a few quid and go for the Millers XF Longlife as a litre or so in a sump full of oil isn't going to make any difference.

Millers Oils XF LONGLIFE 5w-40 Full Synthetic Engine Oil

Cheers

Tim
 
Halfords 10w40 semi synthetic...I swear by the stuff. I bought my B7 RS4 in March 2014 and iv'e changed the oil 3 times, every 3-4000 mls. People say to me "RS4, you'll use mobil 1 oil then" I say no fkn danger, for a couple of reasons, 1, I refuse to pay that much for oil of any kind and 2, I refuse to believe any oil, synthetic or otherwise can last in an engine like an RS4 for around 12000 mls ie your longlife services. Every second change, do the filter aswell and you cant go wrong. My previous motor was an "02" E39 M5 which I ran for 4yrs covering approx. 36000 mls, changed oil every 3-4000 mls with Halfords semi synthetic and never had so much as a tappet rattle from the engine....great stuff at a fraction of the price. Just to clarify I'm in no way saying Mobil1 is inferior or not up to it, I just think its well overpriced.
 
You must be mad. It's not like the oil you are using is even the correct grade. It's the only thing stopping your engine ingesting itself. Quantum full synthetic from the dealer is only £25 for the correct grade and spec. Whether you believe it or not the anti water properties are different between semi and full
 
Just to give you an example, 2 years ago i rebuilt an engine which i sold/fitted on to a friends car which likes to do his own maintenance- he also has a Halfords trade card ! Long story short, he called me to look at the car as it was making a tappety noise, took the rocker covers off only to find the cams i just replaced 2 years ago have started to eat themselves and the rockers were munching at the cams as well ! The engine was rebuilt with high quality forged cams (have rebuilt 3 engines with the same camshaft kits) and even after 60k they looked fine on the other cars which were serviced with Quantum 5w40 engine oil... As with everything in life, you get what you pay for !
 
Halfrauds 10W40 ACEA A3/B3 and VW 504.00

Chart 4
 
Broken Byzan said:
You must be mad. It's not like the oil you are using is even the correct grade. It's the only thing stopping your engine ingesting itself. Quantum full synthetic from the dealer is only £25 for the correct grade and spec. Whether you believe it or not the anti water properties are different between semi and full
Click to expand...
Hey Bryan, just checked the spec on the back of the oil carton VW501.00 / 505.00 I should point out that its not the Green cartons that you normally see in Halfords, its a silver 5ltr container and on front says Mobil sport 2000 but it is still 10w40 and it is still semi synthetic..
 
That be Mobil Super 2000 and 501.01/ 505.00

Studio 20150201 000014



VW 501.01
Conventional motor oils suitable for some VW engines built before MY 2000. This is an “old” oil specification and is applicable to engines built before model year 2000 (up to August 1999). Oils with an approval made post March 1997 were given an alternative, later VW specification.


VW 505.00
Passenger car diesel engine oil specification, minimum performance level CCMC PD-2. Lists viscosities SAE 5W-50, 10W-50/60, 15W-40/50, 20W-40/50 requiring 13% max. evaporation loss and SAE 5W-30/40, 10W-30/40 requiring 15% max. evaporation loss.




I would only use 501.01 / 505.00 old basic VW spec as an engine flush and not in an RS4 .

RS4 Cookie Monster, you Sir, are insane .
 
audi upgrades
No matter how often a basic 10w-40 semi is changed, it isn't good enough for that engine. Even if it's a non-approved oil, a 5w-40 or 5w-30 synthetic makes a lot more sense, just factor the cost of engine work against the money saved and it just isn't worth skimping on oil.
 
Oil and filter changed last weekend, out with the Mobil 10w40 semi and in with the Valvoline 5w30 fully synthetic........
 
Think ill be going for a full oil change to 5W40 over 30 then if it aids on chain rattle etc.
 
Go for a 5W40 ester oil like Red Line , Motul 300V, Gulf Competition , Fuchs Titan Race Pro S and Millers CFS NANODRIVE.
 
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