Couple of new bits fitted. Few pics.

PaulJC84 · Oct 28, 2014

Did the rear links fix the knock? I am thinking I may replace the arb bushes at the same time to make sure its goes.

Broken Byzan · Oct 28, 2014

My rear ones knocked when ******

Bradderz_1988 · Oct 28, 2014

No its still there im thinking roll bar bushes or shocker think i may go for the 034 rear arb as awesome gti are selling them complete with brakets for around £230

PaulJC84 · Oct 28, 2014

Yeah I have the hotchkis sport kit but the bar and c bush brackets are beginning to rust. The 034 kit looks decent.

Final 3Green Land · Nov 9, 2014

Dan Gliballs said:
Agreed.

There only looks to be barely a third exposed there.

Stealth is a great thing, but unfortunately in the intercooler world it's tot the BEST ethos for getting the best results

I bought one of these for my TDi and fitted it lower down so the bottom half was exposed to the very lowest part of the bumper vents and removed the centre plastic grill above and replaced it with diamond plastic mesh which gave the intercooler approx 80% exposure to fresh air...

PaulJC84 · Dec 29, 2014

Well done a bit of work to the car the past two Monday's. Collected my rear arb, brackets and winter wheels from being powder coated.

They were all done anthracite. The wheels were already anthracite but this is a nicer shade. Only got them done as two of them were damaged when I dropped some tools on them by mistake.
Also fitted a new cv boot on the pass side since I noticed it was torn when servicing the car.
When fitting the rear arb I fitted some new end links as there was a knock from the rear previously. The old links looked fine but it's hard to tell once they were off the car.

Mot is booked for next Monday and it is going to fail on the top arms so I have ordered a full set of arms which I will hopefully fit along with anything else that week in time for a retest. I ordered some top mounts too as I didn't replace these when I fitted the new shocks. Ordered those parts from Jason at allgerman. Really helpful guy and hopefully can use him again sometime.

docurley · Dec 30, 2014

Nice to here she's getting the tax she needs.

PaulJC84 · Jan 16, 2015

Well got the car mot'd and it passed even with the old arms. I replaced all the front arms and the top mounts anyway today. Need to get the alignment sorted and the car felt tighter driving from the workshop to my parents.

Headed back to mine after tea and after about 10 miles I could hear the creaking again from the drivers side! Can not believe it. Stood on the sill and used my weight to bounce the car on both sides and the drivers is creaking. I wonder if the shock could be the blame? Its hard to identify the exact cause with the car on the ground.

aragorn · Jan 17, 2015

Bushes on the lower arms?

If you want to try and narrow it down, soak each bush in WD40, then bounce the car and see if the creak goes away.

PaulJC84 · Jan 17, 2015

I replaced all the arms and was worried one was not fitted correctly. But also thought it may be the arb bushes so I disconnected the bush holders but the creak was still there. Had a play about with the rubber the spring goes up against on the mount and it made a slight noise so lubed that up and the bumpstop. Lowered the car and it was away. Stripped the shock off the car and cleaned everything up and greased the mounting plate and rubber properly. Plus had to clip the bumpstop cover back on as when fiddling to find the noise it popped off. Drove 20 miles and it seems to be cured. So pleased! Can now book an alignment.

aragorn · Jan 18, 2015

That shock bolt needs tightened with the weight lowered onto it. If you tightened it with the suspension at full droop it will twist the bush up and damage it.

The same applies to all the bushes on the control arms.

PaulJC84 · Jan 18, 2015

Yeah bolt for the shock strut that goes right through the topmount?
I tightened all the control arms up with the suspension under load but not the top plate for the shock as it was off the car. Used a cloth with mole grips to hold the piston while tightening the top plate and top mount etc.

aragorn · Jan 19, 2015

oh not the top one, i was meaning the bush on the lower arm that the bottom of the shock attaches to.

PaulJC84 · Jan 28, 2015

Well got the alignment done at CLCM in Edinburgh yesterday. £50 and they did it as close to my specs as they could.

They did not touch the front camber though, it could maybe do with the subframe being adjusted a tiny bit to be bang on but car is driving quite nicely with the new arms and the wheels pointing in the same direction.

I will post up my sheet if I remember later.

I also put a deposit on a little run around for about town and maybe some blasts up north. Its a 1997 106 Rallye. Always said I would never have another French car after my first car was a 1993 309 GTI and I spent a fortune fixing odds and ends but I did not really have any tools back then and I have always fancied one of these. I f have been keeping an eye out for a while and to get a reasonable one is becoming more difficult. Totally back to basics motoring with no electric windows, central locking and weighs under 900kg so quite different to the A4.

I do not collect it for 2 weeks as I am too busy at work just now.

Bradderz_1988 · Jan 28, 2015

Nowt wrong with some of the old french motors i had a soft spot for the 306 GTI-6 a old geezer used to bring his white one into my old work place at peugeot and it was immaculate and it is a fairly pokey quick car especially the GTI rallye

PaulJC84 · Jan 28, 2015

Yeah I really like the 306 shape. The induction noise from the gti6 and rallye is really nice. My dad had a couple in 1997 and 2000 for his company car.

Here is my alignment document. Looks like they selected a b5 with aluminium uprights this time so the tolerances are slightly different to previously.

aragorn · Jan 28, 2015

its alloy mounting bracket, not alloy uprights.

Its talking about the metal plate the top arms attach to. Sporty models got alloy ones, boggo models got pressed steel ones instead.

PaulJC84 · Feb 13, 2015

Bit of a small update, some will have seen my other thread where my car has been stalling instantly once I start it from cold. Hoping a new coolant temp sensor will fix this. (part no. 059 919 501A)

Also ordered some new rear arb bushes as my links did not cure my knocking back suspension when running over the cobbled streets in Edinburgh. Bit of a pain to have changed the old links out and binned them as they were probably still decent but oh well.

Just arrived home with my 106 as well. Flew to Cardiff then trained through to Swansea yesterday and drove up to Chester to stay with some friends over night. Drove the rest of the way later this afternoon/evening. Car seem alright but there is a knock from the front and the steering feels a bit vague just off centre so I am going to have a look at the cv joints, ball joints and the steering rack. The clips which hold the skirt on at the front arch also look like they could do with being replaced.

I will change the belts, filters, liquids and plugs as soon as I get time. Parts are pretty cheap compared to the A4 so hopefully servicing and fixing the knocking will not be too costly. Its had one owner from new, is totally standard and has done 81k miles.

Bradderz_1988 · Feb 13, 2015

Very clean i like it !

Knocking will no doubt be a drop link or ball joint on a pug lol

Would of probably suggested the pipes catching the rack if its been lowered but the gaps on this are HUGH it looks like an allroad

aragorn · Feb 13, 2015

I do like the steels. Wanted some for the A4, but you cant get 17" ones

Bradderz_1988 · Feb 14, 2015

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=271772529955

These not do ??

aragorn · Feb 14, 2015

well they would, but they're £250

Steels appeal when they cost a tenner a pop from the breakers, but not when they're that money!

Bradderz_1988 · Feb 14, 2015

I wouldn't pay that either lol

Its £500+ if you want them with winter tyres !!

PaulJC84 · Feb 14, 2015

Yeah it sits pretty high. I may get some bilsteins b8s for it in the future but going to keep it standard for a while.

17" steelies would be cool for the a4. I remember seeing people modifying spacesavers so they could get 18" ones. £250 is ridiculous though. Wonder if you could get some off something like a vw transporter and redrill them.

PaulJC84 · Feb 18, 2015

Well I got the new coolant temp sensor fitted last night, ordered it from TPS on Monday and it was £37. I thought this was quite pricy but its genuine and I needed it quickly as I was needing to use the car today.

Part numbers are:

Coolant temp sensor 059919501A

C Clip 032121142

O ring N90316802

Old sensor

The car seems to start as normal now and it was nice to drive the car again. Feels so much more tight and solid compared to the 106. The steering is lighter and sharper but I suspect that last part is due to the 106s needing looking at. The A4 pulls much stronger with a tiny bit of throttle from 2000 revs as well. Plus you sit a lot lower although it definitely is not as agile. I am going to do any service jobs to the 106 like belts, water pump, fluids, filters, plugs etc and look at the front suspension in April when I get some time so I know everything has been done. I have used the 106 for 600 miles which is quite a lot for me as I only drive around 4000 miles a year. Here are a couple of pics from my travels.

PaulJC84 · Mar 31, 2015

Well had a day off yesterday so set about changing the belts, water pump, oil, coolant and filters. Those were all fine. I replaced the rocker cover gasket and when tightening the top bolt while I was chatting I snapped the stud. I was thankfully able to get the stud out the bolt and the engine. So anyone know where is best to get studs like this?

I rang Peugeot but they are all out and won't get any more. I posted on the 106 forum but I never find it that forthcoming with information.

Kevinb5 · Mar 31, 2015

Soupie69uk said:
Well had a day off yesterday so set about changing the belts, water pump, oil, coolant and filters. Those were all fine. I replaced the rocker cover gasket and when tightening the top bolt while I was chatting I snapped the stud. I was thankfully able to get the stud out the bolt and the engine. So anyone know where is best to get studs like this?

I rang Peugeot but they are all out and won't get any more. I posted on the 106 forum but I never find it that forthcoming with information.

Is this the tu5jp4 engine?the 8v rally's?if so it should be exactly the same as as any tu engine from 1.1 to 1.6 might be aswel to find a breaker

aragorn · Apr 1, 2015

what thread size is it? They look like pretty standard manifold studs.

PaulJC84 · Apr 1, 2015

Yeah I had a look at a couple of TU engines a mate had for scrap but the studs were shorter as their covers look to be smiller.

I think its an M8 but need to check the thread pitch. I found some Nissan manifold studs which look similar apart from the tip but hopefully they work ok.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250763247094?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

PaulJC84 · Sep 27, 2015

Well not touched the A4 for a few months as been busy using the 106. I changed all the suspension and had a nightmare getting the rear axle refurbished but not properly by a company, had 2 axles off them in the end and both were not right. Anyway been enjoying the car locally but its not fun on the motorway!

I took a run up to Bettyhill this weekend. I was pretty fortunate with the weather and the car performed faultlessly over all 900 miles. I also averaged 41mpg which I was surprised about!

Anyway here are some pics.

This WR1 parked beside me up in Durness on Friday and then again in Pitlochry today which was quite a coincidence.

Took this one when helping a lady stuck in a field.

Going to take the A4 out of storage at the end of October which I am looking forward too. Nothing much new with that really. The last work it needed was the N75 valve but I would like to replace the ic hose clamps for new/better quality ones.

PaulJC84 · Oct 11, 2016

Well used the A4 for the first time in about 6 months last week. Car was all good apart from the brakes. Rears were not cleaning up so replaced the sliders, clips, discs and pads. 100x better now.
When doing the drivers side I noticed the clip on the cv joint was loose so I cleaned everything up. Packed the boot with new cv grease. Then I fitted a cable tie. Anyway got back up the road and thought I would check how the boot was. It's still tight but a mess again! Not had time to take the wheel off for a decent look but from the spray it looks like the grease is coming out the boot at the hub as the boot is pretty new.

aragorn · Oct 11, 2016

cable ties rarely work, you need the proper steel band.

PaulJC84 · Oct 12, 2016

Cool, I ordered a bunch of cv clips and a tool to clamp it together yesterday so fingers crossed I can clean it up and sort it this weekend.

PaulJC84 · Oct 20, 2016

Sorted the cv boot on sat with the new clip and seems to be holding a treat so thanks for the advice.

Having a look at the subframes I could probably do with having those blasted and powdercoated in the next year or so.

Got new rear discs and pads to fit this weekend also.

aragorn · Oct 20, 2016

I've got a couple spare rear subframes, i was going to put one in to get blasted for the rear of ours. I was also trying to decide if i should get it galvanised rather than painting it, so it actually lasts a proper length of time...

The front one i had blasted and then painted and done the inside with cavity wax. The rear ones seem to get a lot worse than the fronts though for some reason.

PaulJC84 · Oct 21, 2016

Cool I will keep that in mind. I won't be doing anything until next year as would be a pretty big job and will refresh the rear suspension at the same time.

PaulJC84 · Oct 22, 2016

aragorn said:
I've got a couple spare rear subframes, i was going to put one in to get blasted for the rear of ours. I was also trying to decide if i should get it galvanised rather than painting it, so it actually lasts a proper length of time...

The front one i had blasted and then painted and done the inside with cavity wax. The rear ones seem to get a lot worse than the fronts though for some reason.

See the rear subframe galvanising. Any idea how much and how easy that would be to get done? If you do look at getting one done I would probably take another off you and give you some cash for your effort.

Had a look at my rear brakes today. The rear carrier bolts are totally goosed so didn't get a chance to replace the pads and discs. I saw online some people don't remove the carrier to replace the disc but not sure if that is possible.

S4_dan · Oct 23, 2016

PaulJC84 said:
Had a look at my rear brakes today. The rear carrier bolts are totally goosed so didn't get a chance to replace the pads and discs. I saw online some people don't remove the carrier to replace the disc but not sure if that is possible.

I recently did mine on my 1.9tdi Non vented rear discs. They wouldn't come out without removing the carrier.
But on my Dad's D2 S8, I got the rear vented discs off easily without removing the carrier. Both cars use the same rear pads!

PaulJC84 · Oct 24, 2016

Anyone know the part number for new rear caliper carrier bolts please?

Had a look online and see some listed but they are suggesting they are for the b6 carriers. Some look to be fully threaded and some are only threaded at the end.

aragorn · Oct 24, 2016

there are two different lengths.

N 10181502 is the bottom ones, N 10240901 is the upper ones.

Lowers are M10x1.25x40, and the Uppers are M10x1.25x65.

Couple of new bits fitted. Few pics.

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Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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"Stick a V8 in it!"

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Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

"Stick a V8 in it!"

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

"Stick a V8 in it!"

Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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Registered User

"Stick a V8 in it!"

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Fire up the Quattro!

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