2.0tfsi knocking sound

Ali2.0tfsi

Ali2.0tfsi

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Right guys as most know I wanted to get my timing chain and tensioner changed as it rattles on first start up.

I managed to find a specialist who will do this job for me next week.

The specialist wanted to see the car this morning before he starts the job.

The real question now is. When the car warms up to temperature there is a knocking sound coming from the back of the engine firewall area.

The technician is saying that. The knocking sound could also be the vacume pump which is also located at the back of the engine.

Any of you guys know if this can go faulty? I thought its the tensioner making the knocking sound hence wanted it changed.

Can anyone shed some light on this and how I could pin point is it is the pump and not the CCT

Thanks very much
 
Yeah it could be the vac pump but they ain't cheap. I would be tempted to have the chain and tensioner done first as the vac pump can be replaced in situe if needs be.
 
What if I get a used pump for now to determine if it is or isn't the pump saves me £400-500 on parts and labour for chain and tensioner.

As pump is only £50 used on eBay and I could probably fit that myself
 
Sorry bud, can't answer my phone at present. You could try it but you might find you don't need it at all so it would be a waste for £50 really. They are a very noisy engine anyway
 
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Thanks Craig I will buy a used pump and take the chances as I know the engines are noisy.

My Avant never had this noise and this current car started the knocking sound 2-3month ago.

The knock is only present when car is up to temperature and when it's only idle.

It's just a annoying sound which I want to get fixed.
 
Yeah mine was exactly the same, even after the chain and tensioner was replaced. You'll probably find you'll never get rid of it. I could hear mine inside the car if I listened hard enough. Once again 5/40 nanodrive will quieten it down considerably. I should buy shares in nano drive lol
 
So would you advice in getting the CCT changed as the knocking noise was my main concern why I wanted to change them but if the knock will continue is it worth it?
 
Hey, ill put my 5 pence worth.

Firstly what is the mileage on the vehicle and which engine code are you running as well as what year is the vehicle.? As this will help determine in most cases if it needs replacing or not.

Secondly the knocking can be a few things in my mind. Especially when it comes to that area of the engine.

I wouldn't bother with the pump even thou there is a revised unit I wouldn't put it down to it yet. The vacuum pump is around £200 for a genuine part.

If you could describe the knocking noise? As well as were more specific the location of the noise is rather than just "by the firewall". As I have my suspicion on what it could be.

But I rather hear your feed back first that way I dont want you to be replacing things that arent needed for replacing.
 
It's a 56 REG with 185,000miles all motorway.
Engine code is BUL

The knocking noise as I said it comes from the back of the engine

It's a knock like someone trying to hammer a nail.tok tok tok tok

The knock is clearly heard inside the car if radio is turned down as if it's a Diesel engine.

Cam follower has been replaced 1000miles ago.
 
Last edited:
Okay well if it hasn't been replaced before then most definite would say the chain and tensioner would need to be replaced. Even with a new chain and tensioner replaced you will get abit of chain noise on start mostly in cold mornings as the oil pressure needs to build up to that area of the engine then it should go quiet. So dont be alarmed if you do it and it still makes a 1 or 2 second noise then stops.

My first thoughts was the cam follower because usually on bad wear the High pressure fuel pump will either eat through it and knock on the cam. Because the BUL are especially prone for smashing through cam followers especially if your car is a Pre 06 reg as the later models got the revised B cam shaft which fixed alot of this issue. But if it was definitely replaced recently then one can only think that it has to be the chain or tensioner knocking or there is maybe a internal fault with your high pressure fuel pump because that is the only real part that I can think of that has the knocking noise towards the rear of the engine. I would say when my chain was making a noise it was never loud enough that I could hear it in the cabin and mine was considerably bad.

Who ever is going to be doing the work on your vehicle just let them inspect your cam follower/intake cam as well as your high pressure fuel pump. Because the reality is in order to replace the chain and tensioner you need to remove the cam follower and high pressure fuel pump anyway to access that area.

When did the vehicle last have a oil change? and roughly do you know what oil viscosity the vehicle is running on ?
And also not sure if i asked already but were about are you based?

The tok tok tok noise you describe is it short or long noises if that makes sense. ie tok.... tok... tok... or is more a constant tok tok tok.
 
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Oil change has been every 6-8k since I've owned it using 5w 30 fully syn

I'm located in NW London

The noise is more constant tok tok tok tok

Chain and tensioner getting done next week by a Audi specialist so it's in good hands.
 
Just make sure to use Audi parts.

Also if your chain hasn't been done for a very long time it wouldn't surprise me if the chain has stretched so much that the chain is slapping the inside of the chain housing which would cause the noise. Especially if the noise gets faster when the engine is warmer as well as revs based.
 
Ye i can understand that. Because when you rev the vehicle some of the slack will be taken up.
 
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Just a update got the chain and tensioner changed today and all I can say is WOW what a difference the car sounds and drives so much better and the best part is no more knocking sound :) happy days
 
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Glad you got a positive resolution and another happy BUL engine :)

Just out of interest who did you use to carry out the work and how long did they take?

Do you mind me asking what was the damage?
 
Place called vw Audi specialist in harrow London top guys highly recommended.

They had the car for the day not sure what time they started work on the car.

Charged me £288 all in.

Next step is replacing the oil pick up pipe on the weekend
 
That is a really good price. Did you supply the parts or did they?

I would definitely suggest the pick up being replaced. Is this something the above company will be doing? Or yourself?
 
I supplied the parts they fitted.

No pick up pipe ill be getting done from my local garage who want £100 labour.

The specialist wanted £250
 
Oh okay I was just about to say you got it for a steal but none the less. £288 is still a very good price, they charged you trade labour rates unless it was mates rates.

Because generally most Audi specialist charge 6 hours labour. Which in turn works out to £48 an hour. Unless they did it in a shorter period which is easily possible.

06F115251B - Is the revised oil pick up for our vehicles if you didn't have it.

Its suggested to do a oil change while you at it :)

And £100 is a good price. Sadly I have been caught out by going to a cheaper garage to be only told it will cost more as they "think its a case of" taking the sump off and unscrewing the pick up and putting the new one on refit the sump. But sadly they are very wrongly mistaken. Hopefully not in your case :)
 
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Thanks for the part number but got the pipe already. I hope the price stays the same and don't change lol.
 
Giosabcsl said:
Oh okay I was just about to say you got it for a steal but none the less. £288 is still a very good price, they charged you trade labour rates unless it was mates rates.

Because generally most Audi specialist charge 6 hours labour. Which in turn works out to £48 an hour. Unless they did it in a shorter period which is easily possible.

06F115251B - Is the revised oil pick up for our vehicles if you didn't have it.

Its suggested to do a oil change while you at it :)

And £100 is a good price. Sadly I have been caught out by going to a cheaper garage to be only told it will cost more as they "think its a case of" taking the sump off and unscrewing the pick up and putting the new one on refit the sump. But sadly they are very wrongly mistaken. Hopefully not in your case :)
Click to expand...

How else is the pick up pipe done? Was looking to have mine done so need to know how to go about it before I get stung!

Cheers
 
In order to get to the pick up you have to remove the entire sub frame because if you try and just remove the sump there is not enough clearance to remove it, so the sub frame has to go. As an alternative you can undo the engine mounts and raise the engine and that will give you the clearance to remove the sump.
 
Dropped the car off this afternoon. To local garage for oil pickup pipe and got a phone call to say it's a 4-6 hour job so labour will be £140 lol. But he will also replace the SNUB mount while they are under there.
 
I called it ;) I suppose they wanted to say it like they doing you a favour as a snub mount is 30 seconds job for a 6 quid part. Literally 3 screws/bolts
 
4-6 hour job! What's he doing removing the engine?
I thought the chain and tensioner would solve your problems :)
 
I don't know Craig mechanic said he's needs to remove sub frame and other so will take that long. But it's cool ill get my car back this afternoon and I'll can sleep in peace that it's got all new parts and runs sweet.
 
All sorted pick up pipe changed even though the old pipe was fine and no signs of any blockage even at 185,000 miles.
 
Well thats good. Usually the pick up is bad when vehicles have had incorrect oil, lengthy oil changes, mixing of oils, short journeys , poor oil quality etc.

At least you got peace of mind now :)
 
You tend to find more carbon build up on cars that don't do a lot of mileage. Also making sure you reach a normal engine temp on every drive helps.
People that nip to the shop and back from cold are the ones most at risk with these engines.
 
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