Forge DV With Different Colour Springs - Experiences with Remapped 225 ?

Use a green one and the new style o-ring piston... the actual end....

There are a couple of threads in the FAQs that will help clear stuff up too

<tuffty/>
 
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Mine had a red spring due to a foolish previous owner, the turbo was surging and doing all sorts of weird things, not good.
 
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Yep using the green has anyone noticed you are getting boost leaking past it on WOT ?
 
Can you buy them individually as can only seem to find the x4 colour pack online ?
 
brasiliangringo said:
Yep using the green has anyone noticed you are getting boost leaking past it on WOT ?
Click to expand...

What piston does it have? its a myth that you need a stronger spring for more boost... its an interneterised myth stemming from the fact the valves would leak... this was more the metal to metal contact and it never seating 100%... Forge have improved the pistons now using a rubber seal... if you haven't got one of these then get a service kit for around a tenner and ask if they can send you a green spring too if you don't have one already

<tuffty/>
 
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Have just seen their updated piston tip design with seal you mentioned Tuffty - makes sense :) Thanks.
 
brasiliangringo said:
I understand they wont generate more boost, my query being whether higher boost can break the seal of the piston when using the green spring and interesting to hear from you it doesn't. This is the piston :

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0007&product=FMDVR112
Click to expand...


I didn't mean it makes more boost I meant as you have more boost from a remap... it was suggested that you use a yellow spring for xx psi for example... this is not required if the piston seals properly which a wobbly metal piston will find tricky to do on a metal seat no matter how you try and machine it to do so...

The o-ring now seals much better and under boost you will get equalised pressure on both sides of the piston so shouldn't need much sprimg force to hold it shut... its only supposed to be a return spring... too stiff a spring prevents it from opening under vacuum and can lead to compressor stall at part throttle low load situations... this is the choo choo choo noise you sometimes hear and is commonly called wastegate chatter (yet another myth) but actually isn't

<tuffty/>
 
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Theory suggests a slightly stiffer spring (obviously not too stiff so as to give surge) should clamp that bit quicker to offset higher vacuum generated by the intake of a bigger boosting car and speed up the turbo spool when back on the throttle, or again, is this effect of these uprated springs negligible in this respect ?
 
the spring acts in th same direction as boost. Its impossible for more boost to open the dumpvalve, provided you have it installed the correct way. Any leaking purely comes down to the seal
 
You misunderstood my last post - a stiffer spring should speed up clamping/closing of the recirculation piston (however marginal) when you get back on the throttle before the boost acts on it, that said, i doubt it will have any real world perceptible difference, but was posing that question to those who may have noticed..
 
It may close it marginally faster but a stiffer spring would also make it slower to react/open when you come off the throttle causing the issues described by Tuffty (compressor stall etc)
 
Yes it would, but then the higher intake manifold vac created by a remapped car would compensate for that. All this said, in light of what are probably marginal differences, i wander whats wrong with the stock DV - certainly seems better than the phase 1 Forge DV without the o ring on the piston sealing face.
 
movie_back_to_the_future.gif


Am I back in 2005?
 
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this is the choo choo choo noise you sometimes hear and is commonly called wastegate chatter.

What valve do I need for choo choo choo noise?
 
[QUOTE="16Klappe, post: 2315052, member: 35

That famous year Forge DVs in the S3 were being discussed in depth by every tabloid and broadsheet in the country.

How could i have missed this land mark event..
 
brasiliangringo said:
[QUOTE="16Klappe, post: 2315052, member: 35

That famous year Forge DVs in the S3 were being discussed in depth by every tabloid and broadsheet in the country.

How could i have missed this land mark event..
Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly.

And how could you also have missed the stickies at the top of the forum threads where all your questions are answered?

Bless.
 
Clart said:
this is the choo choo choo noise you sometimes hear and is commonly called wastegate chatter.

What valve do I need for choo choo choo noise?
Click to expand...

Unplug the top hose from your DV so that it can't open; see how long your turbo's wheel shaft lasts.

I'd give it 5 months.

**don't forget to block the vac' hose off though. Otherwise you won't have any boost.
 
Last edited:
16Klappe said:
Unplug the top hose from your DV so that it can't open; see how long your turbo's wheel shaft lasts.

I'd give it 5 months.

**don't forget to block the vac' hose off though. Otherwise you won't have any boost.
Click to expand...
Nice one Bud... Choo Choooooo
 
This thread does not appear at the top of the A3/S3 Type L forum in the highlighted threads i am looking at. It must be frustrating your life's work is therefore getting overlooked - I feel your pain !
 
brasiliangringo said:
Yes it would, but then the higher intake manifold vac created by a remapped car would compensate for that. All this said, in light of what are probably marginal differences, i wander whats wrong with the stock DV - certainly seems better than the phase 1 Forge DV without the o ring on the piston sealing face.
Click to expand...

For the record, a remapped car won't make any more vacuum. A remap will only affect positive pressure in the intake manifold (i.e. when the car is under load/under boost), unless you mess around with throttle valve rest position (which would reduce vacuum anyway). Vacuum is more limited by intake manifold integrity (leaks will reduce vacuum not increase it), valve timing (only really when the timing is incorrect) or by altering the cylinder capacity (stroke/bore etc etc)

Long and short is, stick to the green spring. Anything else is unnecessary and only running the risk of potential compressor stall.
 
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Has an old piston in it but as Tuftty advised, there is a new version with O ring seal, but i now think having read through everything that i may just pop a spare one OEM one back on i have lying around..
 
A car remapped or not will still pull the same vacuum off boost.
You want the DV to open and close as efficiently as possible. Put a stronger spring in and it's harder for the DV to open and release the pressure.
Simples.
Green spring and new piston. Or save yourself from the Internet hype and the bling, and use a standard bosch valve that's proven not to leak and costs about £30 to replace of the diaphragm splits.
Put your £125 towards something that actually helps, like a wellycooler or a B5 TIP.
 
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