egr delete process

Howdy,

Can anyone explain what part of the egr is actually deleted in a dpf/egr delete?

I've had my motor remapped with the dpf out and egr deleted.

The reason I had this done is because I had a loud rattling noise coming from the egr valve area. I was advised that it was the actuator trying to open and close the valve but is probably clogged up and that an egr delete would get rid of this and any other future problems.

So 7 month and £500 quid later I've got the same noise again, after the egr delete.

They have advised me that they only delete the software and that if it fails internally the delete may not work, bow as far as I'm aware the only electrical part near the egr valve is the actuator I'm talking about, and if that's been deleted then how is it still functioning? What other part of the egr system actually gets deleted.

Further more would using an.actual blank plate stop this or am I due a new actuator and a good clean up.

I'm just a bit puzzled and angry at how this is still possible if Ive paid the money to have it sorted.

I would realy appreciate some help if anyone knows what's going on!

Cheers

jjmurphy21187 said:

'Delete' means, as they said, that they delete the software which opens/closes the EGR valve. It also stops the ECU from checking for correct operation and resultant air pressure either side of the valve, as this would throw dash errors without a working EGR valve.

The valve opens to recirculate warm air back into the engine, reducing the amount of fuel required to heat to temperature as the gas is already warm and thus reducing emissions. If the software is deleted the valve should go to the default closed position, only allowing fresh/cold air in from the air intake (this is why some believe it improves performance as cold air is denser than warm and results in more fuel being added to the engine). If the valve itself has failed, i.e. the actuator has broken, the valve flap is broken, something is preventing it from closing or the bearings have gone, this could mean it won't close.

You can use a blanking plate now that the software has been deleted, this will effectively do the job of a fully closed EGR valve, however if the EGR valve is fully closed it's debatable whether this is necessary or not.

From what I understand the EGR valve is fairly easy to access. Why not try removing it, cleaning it up and checking the range of movement on the valve. I'm fairly sure there is a guide on here somewhere, give it a search. I think it's similar regardless of what engine you have...

Hope that helps

Click to expand...

Thanks for that man, nice explanation.
I just thought since the software was deleted that the actuator shudnt be trying to open and close. By the sounds of it reading other people's posts it will be clogged shut open/shut and the actuator is trying to move it, but generally people seem to say have it deleted to save this issue, well I ready have and it's still happening.

The bloke who done it is going to take a look today, but if it's going to cost me stupid money AGAIN I think ill take it off myself and give it a clean up and maybe replace the actuator.

I just can't help but wonder why should it be functioning if its been deleted, and if it's just the warning lights that have been deleted then surely this is worse as I'll not even know when there is a fault.

Just a bit annoyed as this noise I'm hearing is the reason I contacted the remap specialist, who explained it would be best to delete the egr.. I supose I'll let them take a look first and go from there before I say anymore.

Thanks again

Cheers guys,

Been back to the place today and they were quite arrogant, didn't really want to know and basically said if it's nakered it's nakered! But they did actually spot that the egr is leaking.

I just think deleting advertising the fact that deleting.the egr gives you all these benefits when it seems mines still actually working and I'm just not seeing error codes for it.

I'm going to get a black plate and take it to bits and clean it, and in the mean time il see my pal and get vcds on it to see if there's out been logged.

Thanks again

well, the remap guys said they only delete the software and if its broken internaly the delete may not work.
so me and a friend took the egr off and the manifold and gave them a clean, they were quite bad.
when i inspected the egr valve the flap is very hard to push as it gets stuck half way then you need to really shove it to get it to open. i suspect the noise im hearing is from the motor trying to open and close it. so im guessing the egr delete hasnt actually done anything.

another strange thing was when i went to open the black motor box off the egr one of the nuts was filled with what looked like a resin, it looks like someone has deliberately done this as its very neatly done!

anyway the car runs much better, its smoother and has got rid of a flat spot in low revs and it pulls much better in 3rd going slow BUT the clattering noise is still there, just dont know if its actually causing any bother or not?

im obviously getting no warning light due to the delete so i woudnt know.
ive ordered a blank plate and i was thinking about blanking it off and then just leaving the egr diconnected, if all it is doing is trying to open and close the flap, if i blank that flap and make sure its closed off with the blank and just unplug the egr valve will this be the same as what everyone else is doing, or am i wrong?

i will also add that when i did get the remap, the guys said it already had a crazy map on it and that they actually had to level out ratios so it has been tampered with before and unfortunately i didnt see any gain from the remap, but i did get the dpf gutted and now it sounds like its got a dump valve!

Yeah but don't people use blank kits aswell?

Or because mine is damaged is it the case of fit a new egr or to have the full thing replaced with a pipe kit ?