JudderMan
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Hmm I don't know about 07 prices mines an 05 and even some of those were 6k depending on spec so 12 k might not be too mad.
Dead 2.0 Tfsi Engine. Options: Rebuild, Recon, Set On Fire??
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JudderMan
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Engine builder confirmed the oil pump let go and spun a bearing. £1350 with delivery both ways. Getting delivered to my mates garage tomorrow so could uave it back by the end of the week if he has time.
What are the general rules for running these in? I know there are many ways but I think I'll drop oil after 1000 miles of varied but easy miles ie. Not above 3.5k rpm. Then change oil every 5-6k as I usually do twice a year pretty much.
Would like to hear what others do for running in a new engine.
What are the general rules for running these in? I know there are many ways but I think I'll drop oil after 1000 miles of varied but easy miles ie. Not above 3.5k rpm. Then change oil every 5-6k as I usually do twice a year pretty much.
Would like to hear what others do for running in a new engine.
JudderMan
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I think this is how I'm gonna run it in, your opinions would be cool though:
Mineral oil/running in oil change at 50 miles, 150 miles and then 500 miles. At 1,000 miles switch to fully synthetic and change every 5,000 miles.
(Un)fortunately, I have to drive 550 miles on Tuesday for work. Not sure if this is a good idea or not, whether it helps run the engine in or if it isn't varied enough driving (motorway). Is it too risky?
Mineral oil/running in oil change at 50 miles, 150 miles and then 500 miles. At 1,000 miles switch to fully synthetic and change every 5,000 miles.
(Un)fortunately, I have to drive 550 miles on Tuesday for work. Not sure if this is a good idea or not, whether it helps run the engine in or if it isn't varied enough driving (motorway). Is it too risky?
Generally its not advised to keep the rpm at the same rpm for long periods of time as it doesnt allow the pistons to seat correctly. We I used to do rallying we had a method how to break in the engines quick. But thats another story.
But ill try and get the guide up. And also ideally not to use max revs of course.
But ill try and get the guide up. And also ideally not to use max revs of course.
JudderMan
Registered User
Thanks man, I'm not keen a hard break in or whatever it's called. Not for a road car anyway.
Might hire a car for Tuesday as I don't know if I'll be able to do enough miles and oil changes before then.
Might hire a car for Tuesday as I don't know if I'll be able to do enough miles and oil changes before then.
JudderMan
Registered User
It lives 
it's awesome having it back despite the cost...labour was a lot more than was predicted by my mate. Ended up paying 400 labour and 265 for ancillaries but it's basically a new engine. Just giving a swirl pot error now need to investigate.
Running it in for the next few days. Will drop the oil a few times and check the magnetic sump plug for any debris.
Did 100 miles tonight varying revs, accelerating to 3k then letting it overrun.
It's about 2k it's cost me. Hope it stays cost free for this next year at least. The pull of trying to sell it with a new engine is quite high though could make some dollars on it....might see how I think next month.
it's awesome having it back despite the cost...labour was a lot more than was predicted by my mate. Ended up paying 400 labour and 265 for ancillaries but it's basically a new engine. Just giving a swirl pot error now need to investigate. Running it in for the next few days. Will drop the oil a few times and check the magnetic sump plug for any debris.
Did 100 miles tonight varying revs, accelerating to 3k then letting it overrun.
It's about 2k it's cost me. Hope it stays cost free for this next year at least. The pull of trying to sell it with a new engine is quite high though could make some dollars on it....might see how I think next month.
JudderMan
Registered User
Haha totally paranoid listening out for any noise.
Mechanic said the engine had been apart before he sent it away, he reckons it's had new shells in and slapped back together. No wonder I got it cheap.
There's an avant on ebay going cheap that needs an engine...the wife doesn't think it's a good idea.
Mechanic said the engine had been apart before he sent it away, he reckons it's had new shells in and slapped back together. No wonder I got it cheap.
There's an avant on ebay going cheap that needs an engine...the wife doesn't think it's a good idea.
It's abit over priced is that avant mate, had a look myself. Abit of a knacker for the money. I offered him £1500, needless to say I got the middle finger lol!
Swirl pot error? What's the code on that? Never seen or heard of it on the TFSI.
Glad your all back together! It's a nice feeling when you beat the odds and get a good rebuild. I think the labour was more than reasonable tbh, I would be very happy with that result
JudderMan
Registered User
It's abit over priced is that avant mate, had a look myself. Abit of a knacker for the money. I offered him £1500, needless to say I got the middle finger lol!
Swirl pot error? What's the code on that? Never seen or heard of it on the TFSI.
Glad your all back together! It's a nice feeling when you beat the odds and get a good rebuild. I think the labour was more than reasonable tbh, I would be very happy with that result
I think that Avant went for 1550 did it not? I'm tempted to whack my car up for sale and see if I get any bites for £7k. If I do, then I'll be on the hunt for dead engined A4s and flip them for a profit - the sums suggest 1500 for the car, 1700 for the engine and labour (I aded a few bits and bobs taking it up to 2k, sell for 6k making 2,800 quid...possibly). My mechanic did say he never wanted to do it again as he was doing me a 'low' ish price on labour so kinda pushed a lot of work back for my car.
He said it was the swirl flap (not swirl pot sorry). Having Google'd the living daylights out of it, it sounds like intake flaps that get stuck/jammed and have a plastic end to the centre bit of the flap melts as it's on the turbo side. I'm still not sure if it's easier to just pull it out and not run it at all as they sound like if they snap they rattle around and break things...needs more investigation and soon as I really want to remap it but not until I get to the bottom of it.
Yep, all back together and running nicely. I'm quite pleased with how it feels (and sounds much quieter than before, probably from being decoked). Just need to put some miles on it so I can let it rip and see what it's actually like as before the DV was split and didn't really get a chance before it went bang (apart from that one time....which was the reason it died...).
No it's still up at £2500, unless someone bought it and decided to sell it on again. It cost me £500 to put an engine in the DTM and the SE that I bought. But I had 2 good heads, just replaced the blocks and had the heads skimmed.
You mean the runner flaps, I know what you mean now. I've had mine bring up an error once with 1.5bar of boost on the k04 hybrid. Other than that it's fine. Just reset it and carry on unless it keeps popping up. I was going to delete mine, but the fuel economy deteriorates fast.
Not that economy even comes into the equation these days.
They can be a nice earner, but can also be a pain in the ****, it's a case of where do you stop. I did every revised part that I could find on both. Definitely worth it, especially if someone you know buys it.
JudderMan
Registered User
Just read my reply back, I meant I'll stick mine up for sale but not sell it, just see if anyone bites. Some low mileage 06 models going for 7-8k, so mine technically has 200 miles on the engine (plus...123k on the chassis but you'd never think it). Gonna keep it now, as I wanna see what it's like with 250bhp and 300ftlbs after a map.
Thanks for the info about the intake flap things, looks like it's not too much of a problem.
Thanks for the info about the intake flap things, looks like it's not too much of a problem.
Yeah it would probably fetch that. It will laugh at 250bhp that engine mate, so I can't imagine you will have any problems. Just switch onto 5/40 fully synthetic oil when you start running higher boost. Will stop the oil thinning out under higher engine temperatures which in return makes it a much quieter engine as well. As we all know these engines are loud enough as it is lol!
Yeah no probs, have fun!
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Hi Craig,
I've had the flaps deleted on mine as part of the manifold changes etc,and apart from knobbly running when cold,it hasn't made any difference to the "economy".....the thing still does 28-29mpg.
Has it not? Well that's a bonus! Even with the power your running your still getting 28 mpg!!?? That's awesome!!
JudderMan
Registered User
Alex, was my description correct are they plastic and melt or could melt being near the turbo? Sounds nuts really as the intake is plastic too...
What sort of power are you running? I remember you from the 8l board and I'm sure you had something silly fast.
Am I right in thinking the flaps get coked up? I think I'd rather replace than remove them as I don't want lumpy running when cold. Wanna keep this as oem as possible but all new and improved oem where possible.
What sort of power are you running? I remember you from the 8l board and I'm sure you had something silly fast.
Am I right in thinking the flaps get coked up? I think I'd rather replace than remove them as I don't want lumpy running when cold. Wanna keep this as oem as possible but all new and improved oem where possible.
The runner flaps are in your intake manifold, I've never heard of them melting. Not over here any way. Only in the states. Once deleted it needs mapping out.
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There are plastic and metal parts involved,and I have seen one melted,but that was in a car where RS4 injectors were being used,and the injectors had either been fitted wrongly or moved around to fire back up the inlet manifold.....then there was some fire.
The flaps don't get coked up much,but the valve stems do.
Here's some I prepared earlier....
The car is running around 500+bhp @ 2.2bar.
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Mapping the motor out is easy enough,but getting the thing to run smoothly when cold is less easy.
Mine for instance will start and idle well,but won't run beyong 3500rpm until it's reached 80C.
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I replaced both the inlet manifold,and the head cover and breather,plus had the inlet flaps deleted.
The idea of the breather change was to stop the OEM system or the Forge system from dumping remaining oil into the turbo inlet breather,and stop the coking.
APR do a software revision for their users for runner flap delete.....the car doesn't NEED that sort of thing,but as I say cold running is knobbly otherwise.
It is a daily driver BTW!
So what did you do with the catch can set up then? Does it vent to atmosphere? I blocked my inlet and just looped it to the catch can, made a massive difference! When I took the engine out, the inlet valves were even cleaner than after I had cleaned them, if that makes sense lol.I replaced both the inlet manifold,and the head cover and breather,plus had the inlet flaps deleted.
The idea of the breather change was to stop the OEM system or the Forge system from dumping remaining oil into the turbo inlet breather,and stop the coking.
APR do a software revision for their users for runner flap delete.....the car doesn't NEED that sort of thing,but as I say cold running is knobbly otherwise.
It is a daily driver BTW!
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I got the full vent-to-atmosphere kit from IE.
The new cam cover only has the one breather rather than all those ones that the stock cover has,and eliminates that sneaky one at the back of the cover draining into the turbo inlet.
Bet that wasn't cheap! I'm painting mine for the minute lol and sticking with the revo stage 2 before I go for I.E cam cover. Looks the tits does that cover.I got the full vent-to-atmosphere kit from IE.
The new cam cover only has the one breather rather than all those ones that the stock cover has,and eliminates that sneaky one at the back of the cover draining into the turbo inlet.
What have you done with the breather that comes from the block/oil cooler?
Oh I see, one goes in one side of the can and the one from the cover goes into the other side of the can, then the breather keeps the crankcase oil pressure to stock... Like it!!!I got the full vent-to-atmosphere kit from IE.
The new cam cover only has the one breather rather than all those ones that the stock cover has,and eliminates that sneaky one at the back of the cover draining into the turbo inlet.
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After duty it was reassuringly expensive......
It's beautiful stuff and very well made.....the catch can is fed by two breathers,one from the cam cover,and the other from the crank.
The cam covers $999 on it's own. Been trying not to order from the states, tired of getting bummed on import tax lol! Think I may look into that, or make some form of external breather for my current catch can. We will see. It's never ending!
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I shopped around a LOT before buying it,and couldn't find it significantly cheaper elsewhere,even by buying from UK suppliers,and IE shipped it very fast,quicker than I could have done from the UK!
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JudderMan
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I wouldn't want to go over 3k till it was warmed through anyway
Mine won't!
With that manifold and no flaps(!) it won't run beyond 3500rpm till it's warm.
JudderMan
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Well, it's run in now, another oil change and decat and 3"downpipe going on tomorrow then a remap next month probably. Nice to have it back.
bash82
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Hi I know this is an old thread but I hope someone see's my reply and can help me out!
I had a recon engine fitted in my a3 2.0tfsi quattro. It is a 06 plate with 108k miles on it. Went to collect it and got 35miles down the road before fuel started leaking out of where the injectors are. Somehow the blue o rings had split that seal injectors to the manifold or rail. Recovered back to the garage where recon engine was fitted. He changed o rings again and sent me on my way. This time i manged to get 47miles same issue. Now he says its coz ECU been remapped. The remap ppl say that it wont be because of remap, as i drove the car for 2 years without any issues.
Does anyone know what could be causing the fuel pressure to be so high it splits these o rings? Because matey in the recon place said he doesn't want anything else to do with the car now as he, in his own words, "has done everything he can and changed all relevant bits it could be".
I had a recon engine fitted in my a3 2.0tfsi quattro. It is a 06 plate with 108k miles on it. Went to collect it and got 35miles down the road before fuel started leaking out of where the injectors are. Somehow the blue o rings had split that seal injectors to the manifold or rail. Recovered back to the garage where recon engine was fitted. He changed o rings again and sent me on my way. This time i manged to get 47miles same issue. Now he says its coz ECU been remapped. The remap ppl say that it wont be because of remap, as i drove the car for 2 years without any issues.
Does anyone know what could be causing the fuel pressure to be so high it splits these o rings? Because matey in the recon place said he doesn't want anything else to do with the car now as he, in his own words, "has done everything he can and changed all relevant bits it could be".
